21m. Definitely ‘top end’ for the grade and it will feel a lot harder still if you miss grabbing the big hidden jug out on the right just before the final bulge!
A modern hybrid comprising a re-equip of Quit Talking and Start Chalking coupled with a new middle section, and a retro of the top flake of No Strange Delight to a new slightly higher double ring abseil station.

Gordon A Jenkin, Brian (Blob) Wyvill (both led) 17/Jun/2012

Dan Jenkin 23/Dec/17 Lead rpt
with Gordon Jenkin
evhall 23/Dec/17 Lead dog
with colin
AlexRenshaw 18/Dec/17 Lead
julesmckim 18/Dec/17 Lead rpt
Bristoldave 03/Dec/17 Lead O/S
with Gerald
Andrew Sloan 27/Oct/17 Lead dnf

Got to the peg below the final bulge, clipped a quickdraw but too tired to clip the rope. Took a 20 footer. Too tired to get back up to my top quickdraw, lowered off. Headed to a&e to have a gash to my shoulder seen to. Very frustrating, thought I had it in the bag.

with pete
Fergus Moore 22/Oct/17 Lead O/S
with Teo Garcia Milan
drgrange 20/Oct/17 2nd O/S
with Gordon
Derek Ryden 29/Sep/17 Lead O/S

Superb, sustained and technical climbing. No way is this 6b!

with Nigel N
No? Yes! 29/Sep/17 Lead

Good route - not straightforward .2nd time on and clean this time.Surely 6B+ ?

KRB 22/Sep/17 Lead O/S

Quite good

Hidden 31/Aug/17 TR dog
ljkenny 31/Aug/17 Lead dnf

Introduced to Lead Climbing by Mac, who is a IFMGA mountain guide []. Mac managed 2 bolts, then had to come down due to fatigue. I managed 4 bolts before the pump set in. Great introduction to Lead Climbing.

with Sophie, Mac Mackay
Fakey Rocks 11/Aug/17 Lead dog

Maybe arder than Chepstozombi. With Martins draws in, but i grabbed the last one b4 lower off, as i was pumping out trying to get a grip on clipping it. Missed a hold out left there. Not sure what the reference to big hidden jug out right is in this ukc descrip. There's a left one, but even on lower off i tried a right version, it's harder... jug?

Martin Bagshaw 11/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/17 Lead
_m.cox_ 04/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Ron Barraclough
Stuart William 26/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Harry
badgerjockey 26/Jul/17 Lead rpt
Luke_92 19/Jul/17 Lead dog
with Patrick
patrickcd 19/Jul/17 Lead rpt
with Luke
tom.wp6 07/Jul/17 Lead O/S
reubenhf 07/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Tom P
Hidden 01/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/17 Lead
JGriffiths 22/Jun/17 Lead dog
Brandon Hawley 14/Jun/17 Lead
with Dom
AlexBush 13/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Oli
Donny M 04/Jun/17 Lead dnf

Just couldn't get past the last bolt in the blazing heat. Lily sent it onsight and rescued my draws

with Lily
Lilypopskeal 03/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Arrived straight from work on a particularly hot and sweat evening and feared I would grease off everything. My warm up climb ... a bit stiff but my mate wanted his draws back. I climbed steadily up the left of the bolts. Was close to the top. Hit the crux felt unsure and so pointlessly shook out for ages in a less than restful position. Fought through and got the onsight. Grades aside this climb felt hard and at my limit so I was really phsyched at my comittment to finish. Good day.

with Donny
ulbau 27/May/17 2nd dog
haribotheclimber 27/May/17 Lead rpt
Owen Davies 27/May/17 Lead O/S
afterthesend 27/May/17 Lead β
JonoDHawkins 26/May/17 Lead

It's been a few years but a cracking route - definitely easier with the jug at the top!

with Archie
badgerjockey 26/May/17 Lead O/S
with Rich
AWalker96 26/May/17 Lead dog
with Jono Hawkins
Hidden 23/May/17 TR β
kenneM 22/May/17 Lead rpt
with Chris
Hidden 09/May/17 Lead rpt
Ed Babs 06/May/17 Lead O/S
with Harrison
haribotheclimber 06/May/17 Lead

Bit annoyed on this one, fell on last move as put my hand into what felt like a dust bucket and just pinged right off. Still alot of large loose blocks on this route.

with Ed babs
scorpia97 04/May/17 Lead O/S
with Caspian
just one more 28/Apr/17 Lead rpt
with Patrick
Hidden 28/Apr/17 Lead O/S
patrickcd 28/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Steve
Stanners 28/Apr/17 Lead rpt
with Kel Vargas
kenneM 16/Apr/17 Lead O/S
KatePG 11/Apr/17 Lead dog
mattharper 11/Apr/17 2nd dog
with Kate
WillAndrew 11/Apr/17 Lead rpt
with Matt H, KatePG
julesmckim 31/Mar/17 Lead O/S

Great climbing. Didn't find the hidden jug, so thin rockover at the top bulge

with Rob Smart
danbirkby 27/Mar/17 Lead RP
just one more 24/Mar/17 Lead rpt
with Dan Birkby
danbirkby 24/Mar/17 Lead dog

Fell off on the last move because it was dark and I missed the final jug. Nuts.

with SteveB
nickwhimster 13/Mar/17 2nd dog
with Kemics
Kemics 13/Mar/17 Lead rpt

Retro retro flash...felt hard

james n 11/Mar/17 Lead rpt
with Lisa P
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 11/Mar/17 Lead rpt
with Steph
Lisa P 11/Mar/17 2nd O/S
with james n
Hidden ?/Mar/17 TR O/S
Hidden 18/Jan/17 TR
Stanners 29/Oct/16 Lead rpt
with Fiend
Hidden 22/Oct/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 16/Oct/16 -
Joe Mathers 23/Sep/16 Lead
PaulTclimbing 18/Sep/16 Lead
with Pete, Nick
Hidden 26/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Dan Jenkin 18/Jun/16 Lead
with Gordon Jenkin
Gibbo 15/Jun/16 Lead
with Helen Ward
WillAndrew 08/Jun/16 Lead RP
steve_gibbs 08/Jun/16 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Jun/16 Lead
jamie_bkc 24/May/16 Lead
riccynino 06/May/16 Lead RP
with Sam Young, Liam Jones
Hidden 30/Apr/16 Lead rpt
cornishben 27/Apr/16 Lead rpt
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 25/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Marti999 25/Apr/16 Lead O/S
RichyBOYY 24/Apr/16 Lead rpt
with Guatier
jalien 20/Apr/16 Lead dog

Think I missed the jug near the top, hence a couple of falls at the penultimate bolt. Felt a bit stiff even up to this point.

kenneM 14/Apr/16 Lead rpt
with Chris
EmilyElouise 28/Mar/16 TR O/S
with SJ
Kevin Woods 17/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Warm up. Nice climbing.

Tom Brierley Gore 05/Mar/16 Lead rpt
AshBarnes 02/Feb/16 Lead dog

Took one fall because I couldn't climb back down to rest. One fall!!

with Ric
Hidden 16/Jan/16 Lead O/S
kenneM 15/Nov/15 Lead rpt
with Chris
luke harvie 01/Nov/15 Lead dog
Hidden 08/Oct/15 Lead O/S
RichyBOYY 21/Aug/15 Lead rpt
with David Clover
lieraza 15/Aug/15 TR dnf
with Lorena, James
kenneM 13/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Another awesome NQ route - this place really is much better than it looks!

with Chris
steve_gibbs 04/Aug/15 Lead rpt
with Pauline Picchio
steve_gibbs 29/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with Liam Jones
steve_gibbs 08/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with Pauline Picchio
Legs 08/Jul/15 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 09/Jun/15 Lead dog
Hidden 07/Jun/15 Lead β
vertigo 30/May/15 Lead O/S
with Simon
Bates 25/May/15 Lead O/S

Really good.

with Andy Brice
DavidBarraclough 20/May/15 Lead rpt
with danny john brown
Tom Seccombe 19/May/15 Lead O/S
with max goodman
Kev Little 13/May/15 Lead O/S
Gibbo 28/Apr/15 Lead
with Matt Gibbins
Kemics 27/Apr/15 Lead rpt

Retro flash

with Felix
Hidden 27/Apr/15 Lead rpt
steve_gibbs 21/Apr/15 2nd rpt
with John Harris
Hidden 16/Apr/15 Lead rpt
Hulda 16/Apr/15 Lead
with Marina
sideshow84 14/Apr/15 Lead dog

Grabbed the last bolt panicking as my heel was caught behind the rope.

Hidden 14/Apr/15 Lead G/U
Hidden 10/Apr/15 Lead dog
sideshow84 10/Apr/15 Lead RP
Tim_C7 ?/Apr/15 Lead
JoeE 31/Mar/15 Lead β

Nice climb!

with Wayne
katherinesydney 30/Mar/15 2nd dog

Got frustrated and shouted... There are a few loose holds, too.

with neil morbey
Hidden 27/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Dan Jenkin 20/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Gordon Jenkin
Hidden 27/Feb/15 Lead dog
RichyBOYY 17/Feb/15 Lead O/S
with Ben M
HarryPalmer ??/2015 Lead rpt
JoeE 13/Dec/14 Lead dog

Flaky handhold came off near the third bolt. Still doable without.

with Simon Cox
evhall 25/Oct/14 Lead dog
with David
just one more 16/Oct/14 Lead rpt
guy xavier percival 10/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with paul
Paul Robertson 10/Oct/14 Lead dog
emitto 28/Sep/14 -
with Matt, Al
evhall 20/Sep/14 Lead dog

my first fall on a sport route - not sure how - but slipped just before clipping - took a good 4-5m fall and hurt ankle...but got back on and finished...very good route

with goat
Tom Brierley Gore 14/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Feeling bold 14/Aug/14 TR dnf

Plenty if rests en route in order to read the climb, tough but exciting route.

with Tom
hutchay 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Russell Blackaller 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Steve McClure
FernandoHidalgo 21/Jul/14 2nd dog

Just one rest, nearly done in one go. Very nice route.

Hidden 15/Jul/14 Lead dog
sideshow84 15/Jul/14 Lead dog

Very close! just too pumped at the last bolt. Next time!

afrosam 10/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with DaveX
DaveX 10/Jul/14 Lead dog

Stupidly hot and sweaty today on fierce polish so had to have a chalking up rest near the top and missed out on the on sight.

with Afrosam
zcsharp 03/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Jon_Warner 25/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Cool quarry climbing

with Chaz Mc'Dee
Hidden 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Stanners 18/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Rounded off a great day at avon. Favourite route at new quarry to date.

Quarryboy 17/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Felt kind of tired but decided to do one last route and with the quickdraws already in place and the holds chalked found myself in some sort of climbing trance moving up the wall barely focused on anything, really nice.

Llinos C 12/Jun/14 Lead RP
Hidden 02/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Greg Pittam ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Clare Muir
Rosea Day 26/May/14 Lead O/S
DorsetGareth 13/May/14 Lead O/S

Nice climbing, but terrifying detached blocks.

cornishben 13/May/14 Lead O/S
TDSvejstrup 11/May/14 Lead O/S
with catty_9
catty_9 11/May/14 2nd

Great climb, but I got way more pumped than I should have

NancyJones 11/May/14 Lead RP

Whoop! At last

NancyJones 09/May/14 Lead dog
with Mike
LucasHarazin 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
chrisscutt 11/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with oly
steve_gibbs 09/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Mustafa
brices 03/Apr/14 Lead β
with Llinos
Trisha Murphy 01/Apr/14 Lead O/S
hankyc ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
tommy.henriksson78 ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/14 Lead RP
Hidden 29/Mar/14 Lead rpt
bonelessivar 24/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Nice. Felt like 6b to me.

mallardhealhook 22/Mar/14 2nd O/S

Have climbed this route numerous times just never logged it

with Evhall
evhall 22/Mar/14 Lead dog
with Jon
Cheese Monkey 14/Mar/14 Lead RP
with Dominic, Marta
Cheese Monkey 14/Mar/14 Lead rpt
with Dominic, Marta
Nathan Chrismas 13/Mar/14 2nd dog
with Jones
NancyJones 13/Mar/14 Lead dog
with Nathan
NancyJones 04/Mar/14 Lead dog
pscholl ??/2014 TR dog
Wise ??/2014 -
Hidden 26/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Alex Winter 28/Sep/13 Lead rpt
just one more 05/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with john smith
AndrewCollins ?/Sep/13 Lead RP
with Finan
TomJ 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Ben
mikedevcole 21/Aug/13 Lead dog
MikeC59 16/Aug/13 TR dog
with Ian L
Tom Heslam 02/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Chubbard 24/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this. Topped out in darkness, lowered off in the rain.

with Derek
JKinsella 18/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Fun warm up! Soft 6b.

climbergg ?/Jul/13 2nd
Tim M ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Emma
Alex Winter 28/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Thought this was really nice, best route I've done in the quarry.

with Ross
richiebongo 29/May/13 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/13 Lead
evhall 16/May/13 Lead dog

very enjoyable route.

with Fletch
pheotleyr 12/May/13 Lead RP

finally won the battle with the pump this time on my like 4th attempt (spread over about 1 year).

with Caleb
Phil Murray 24/Apr/13 Lead dnf

Got to just below the top peg then slumped down defeated. Getting shiny already....

with Ian Law
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
k_k 19/Apr/13 Lead dog
Hidden 09/Mar/13 2nd dog
tommy.henriksson78 09/Mar/13 Lead dog
Hidden 17/Feb/13 Lead RP
Cheese Monkey 07/Feb/13 Lead dog

Just missed the onsight

with Alan
BeccaSnowden 13/Jan/13 Lead O/S
with Tom
Hidden 02/Dec/12 Lead O/S
Phil Murray 05/Sep/12 Lead RP

Great route - really enjoyed it - sustained, *just* got the redpoint!

with Steve Wright
pheotleyr 16/Aug/12 TR rpt

too lazy to try lead

with James
Phil Murray 20/Jul/12 2nd dog

Sustained - 6b I'd say. Very worthwhile.

with Steve Wright
ericinbristol 12/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Ali
pheotleyr 22/Jun/12 TR RP

top-roped clean after a dogged lead

with Jana
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High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set