Rockfax Description
A popular climb, with an easy approach and descent (well relatively), on good rock, and not too long - at least when compared to the stuff further to the left! Start in the bay at the right-hand side of the face.
1) 4+, 40m. Trend slightly right up the side of the buttress.
2) 4+, 45m. Continue in the same line to a good ledge.
3) 6a+, 25m. Follow the right-trending wall and groove (crux) to easier ground an a little higher a belay on a good tree.
4) 5, 45m. Move easily right then climb to the right of the crest of the buttress before pulling back left to a stance.
5) 6a, 40m. Continue up the buttress (tricky but soon easing) then the groove on the right and up to a stance.
6) 5+, 40m. Climb a little higher then follow the ledge out left to its end and then climb a short exposed wall to more ledges.
7) 5, 45m. Originally the route finished up the grassy ramps than run up an left to reach the Valencianos escape route, though it is much better to trend right onto the rounded buttress and climb this to a sudden finish.
© Rockfax
FA. J.Matas, J.Lorenzo 1978.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mark Eddy | 4 Jan, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: A fantastic climb with amazing positions all the way. Not sure why it was dropped from the 2013 edition of Rockfax, but may I suggest it makes an appearance in the next edition. It clearly sees traffic and when compared to most other routes on Ponoch this one has a straightforward and quick descent down the via ferrata track and abseils. There is very little fixed gear on the route, only the crux pitch had a decent amount and any difficult steps. We took a sizeable trad rack and used most of it. Pitch lengths and grades here. Some pitches could be strung together but rope drag would likely become a problem. P1: 35m 5 P2: 25m 5 P3: 20m 5+ P4 15m 6a+/b P5 45m 5+ P6 35m 6a P7 25m 5+ P8 10m 4+ P9 40m 5+ | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: A fantastic climb with amazing positions all the way. Not sure why it was dropped from the 2013 edition of Rockfax, but may I suggest it makes an appearance in the next edition. It clearly sees traffic and when compared to most other routes on Ponoch this one has a straightforward and quick descent down the via ferrata track and abseils. There is very little fixed gear on the route, only the crux pitch had a decent amount and any difficult steps. We took a sizeable trad rack and used most of it. Pitch lengths and grades here. Some pitches could be strung together but rope drag would likely become a problem. P1: 35m 5 P2: 25m 5 P3: 20m 5+ P4 15m 6a+/b P5 45m 5+ P6 35m 6a P7 25m 5+ P8 10m 4+ P9 40m 5+ |
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| Heike | 3 Jan, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Agree with the above. On pitch 6, make sure you go far enough otherwise you can't do the last pitch in a oner. The 2nd abseil on the descent is marked as 35 metres rather than 30 - just in case you are taking only a single 60 m rope. Great cliff - quiet. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Agree with the above. On pitch 6, make sure you go far enough otherwise you can't do the last pitch in a oner. The 2nd abseil on the descent is marked as 35 metres rather than 30 - just in case you are taking only a single 60 m rope. Great cliff - quiet. |
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| Andy2 | 10 Apr, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: There are actually three pitches before the 6a+ crux pitch, if you belay at the obvious double bolts each time, rather than the two described. Lengths 30m, 30m, 25m; grades 4+, 4+, 5. At the end of the 6a+ pitch you belay on a good bolt and wire, rather than the rather small tree. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: There are actually three pitches before the 6a+ crux pitch, if you belay at the obvious double bolts each time, rather than the two described. Lengths 30m, 30m, 25m; grades 4+, 4+, 5. At the end of the 6a+ pitch you belay on a good bolt and wire, rather than the rather small tree. |
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Las Hadas
Grade: 6a+ ***
(Ponoch)