45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb and unusual route which is the most popular on the wall. It is actually considerably more strenuous than it looks, mainly because the cracks aren't the correct width for good jams. Start at the lower right-hand side of the wall, three metres left of a wide chimney with a large wedge of solid rock in it.
1) 5c, 25m. Climb up steep juggy rock to the base of the crack laced wall. Pull into the crack and paddle your way up it with a slight leftwards detour where it gets tricky. Continue to the blocky recess to belay. A powerful pitch that will feel 6a if at all damp.
2) 5b, 20m. Move up to a ledge on the left then climb straight up the cracks above. After 6m move left to a spike in a recess (on Rollerwall). Finish by passing the bulge above on its left. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn 23.3.80 23/Mar/1980

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UserDateNotes
John Alcock 7 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Desperately strenuous..particularly if damp. One reachy move on sloppy jams used to stop E3 leaders dead... E4 is probably about right
βeta?
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βeta: Desperately strenuous..particularly if damp. One reachy move on sloppy jams used to stop E3 leaders dead... E4 is probably about right
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Tomar 6 Apr Lead dog Steep and pumpy as I quickly found out. One fall at the crux boxed out of my mind, then finished it off. Amazing route!
Steep and pumpy as I quickly found out. One fall at the crux boxed out of my mind, then finished it off. Amazing route!
aiyer 23 Jun, 2018 Lead dnf Too hot, too pumpy, too chicken...
with wojt
Too hot, too pumpy, too chicken...
with wojt
steve_yo 14 Apr, 2018 2nd
Ricky Rocks 14 Apr, 2018 Lead G/U Soooooo! Pumped! A good test of my lack of fitness, great climbing one big pitch..
Soooooo! Pumped! A good test of my lack of fitness, great climbing one big pitch..
gazhbo 19 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Wendy 17 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with Ollie
with Ollie
Duncan Campbell 12 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S In a oner. Great pumpy climbing!!
with Howard Lawledge
In a oner. Great pumpy climbing!!
with Howard Lawledge
Hidden 10 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
Stefan_Morris 6 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Led P2 in the rain, P1 is great!
Led P2 in the rain, P1 is great!
Ed morris 6 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Led first pitch, plug in the gear and go go go!great fun!
Led first pitch, plug in the gear and go go go!great fun!
markalmack 4 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S pumpy. lead in one pitch. Moves are all easy, just it's well steep. second pitch is full of loose blocks, holding in other blocks!
with Ian1987
pumpy. lead in one pitch. Moves are all easy, just it's well steep. second pitch is full of loose blocks, holding in other blocks!
with Ian1987
pipof747 ?Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
NeilGriffiths 26 Aug, 2013 AltLd Rodger very smooth on 1st pitch. Good route.
with Rodger
Rodger very smooth on 1st pitch. Good route.
with Rodger
Hidden 30 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
Toby Dunn 26 May, 2013 Lead O/S
with Simon Palmer
with Simon Palmer
Alex Mason 5 May, 2013 Lead O/S Led P2. Little gem.
with Jemma Powell
Led P2. Little gem.
with Jemma Powell
colesy 22 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S Long pumpy route, did it in one pitch and placed over 20 runners.
Long pumpy route, did it in one pitch and placed over 20 runners.
thomasadixon 9 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Felt tough!
with mwatson
Felt tough!
with mwatson
mwatson ??, 2011 -
JulesV 8 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
with Shauna Cunningham
DavidBarraclough ?Aug, 2000 Lead rpt
UKB Shark 8 Jun, 1997 Lead
with Chris Sowden
with Chris Sowden
Ian Jones ?Sep, 1996 Lead O/S Nice to see it upgraded. I must have been strong back then.
with Karen Ghiselli
Nice to see it upgraded. I must have been strong back then.
with Karen Ghiselli
sdht 22 Jun, 1996 2nd
with Tim Jepson
with Tim Jepson
Alan James - UKC and UKH ?May, 1995 AltLd
Hidden 30 Apr, 1994 Lead β
Andy Say 4 May, 1990 Lead O/S Certainly strenuous but I'm not sure about E4; E3 (but on the tough side) felt about right
Certainly strenuous but I'm not sure about E4; E3 (but on the tough side) felt about right
Bruce Kerr 26 Mar, 1989 Lead
with geomac
with geomac
Hidden ??, 1989 AltLd
Stoney Boy 2 Apr, 1988 Lead O/S Pitch 2
with Kel Toplis, Steve Wigmore
Pitch 2
with Kel Toplis, Steve Wigmore
mike mo ??, 1988 Lead O/S
airborne ?Apr, 1987 Lead
with Rob Wright
with Rob Wright
Neil McA 28 Sep, 1986 Lead G/U In the rain.
with Martin Wilson
In the rain.
with Martin Wilson
Brian Wilderspin 5 Jun, 1986 -
with Perric Crellin
with Perric Crellin
Hidden 5 Apr, 1985 AltLd
Mike Owen 20 Apr, 1984 AltLd O/S
with Phil Ralph
with Phil Ralph
Dave Turnbull ?Apr, 1984 Lead
Hidden 5 Nov, 1983 Lead
Mark Kemball 8 Apr, 1982 AltLd E2 back then, but I thought it was rather tough!
with Dave Abbey
E2 back then, but I thought it was rather tough!
with Dave Abbey
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 9
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 7
Style of ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Not Set