Rockfax Description
A popular climb which happily repelled teams for years when graded E1. The traverse right from the cave usually proves to be a bit taxing, especially when damp. In such conditions the direct finish (as for Play Misty for Me) isn't any harder. Start on a good ledge below an open slanting groove on the left-hand side of the wall. Climb the groove and then trend rightwards along a crack to another, steeper groove. This leads to the cave. Hard layback moves up and right leave you beneath a easier groove. Climb this and the easy upper wall to the top. © Rockfax

FA. C.Heard 25.7.81 25/Jul/1981

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, 101Pembroke Extremes, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)

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UserDateNotes
Chad123 2 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route, well worth three stars, though a bit pumpy, it's such a short section that the overall route is quite easy for E2, especially compared to Master Blaster further right. Great fun though all the way.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent route, well worth three stars, though a bit pumpy, it's such a short section that the overall route is quite easy for E2, especially compared to Master Blaster further right. Great fun though all the way.
John Alcock 7 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The traverse is often damp and makes it hard for the grade..the direct finish as for Play Misty may be an easier option
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The traverse is often damp and makes it hard for the grade..the direct finish as for Play Misty may be an easier option
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
WB 19 Apr Lead O/S average - 1 cool move the rest is a bit of a ramble
average - 1 cool move the rest is a bit of a ramble
Wil Treasure 6 Apr 2nd
with duncan
with duncan
duncan 6 Apr Lead O/S
Bernie L 29 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
with cdpuk
with cdpuk
cdpuk 29 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S
Kyuzo 15 Sep, 2018 2nd
gjd 7 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
with Brian H
with Brian H
Hidden 7 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S
nuts and bolts 7 Sep, 2018 2nd dog
Hidden 31 Aug, 2018 2nd β
Dexter JW 22 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S w/ E3 direct finish
w/ E3 direct finish
Will Mortimer 22 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S
tprebs 26 May, 2018 2nd O/S absolute grease fest
absolute grease fest
shed_hed 26 May, 2018 Lead O/S Nice climb, pretty greasy, did not help me commit to the traverse when it felt like the holds were covered in soap!
with tprebs
Nice climb, pretty greasy, did not help me commit to the traverse when it felt like the holds were covered in soap!
with tprebs
Adam24B 14 Apr, 2018 2nd O/S
with Kris2fa
with Kris2fa
Kris2fa 14 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S Decided (after much deliberation) to go direct up the wall from the cave because the traverse was a bit damp, and loved it!
with Adam24B
Decided (after much deliberation) to go direct up the wall from the cave because the traverse was a bit damp, and loved it!
with Adam24B
DubyaJamesDubya 17 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S
with Andrew Bevan
with Andrew Bevan
Katekeltie 1 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 1 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S
msoldn ??, 2017 2nd O/S
with feilx
with feilx
Misha 6 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Good warm up and a nice enough route but wouldn't put it in the top 50. Crux felt quite intimidating, especially as it was damp, but it's well protected by a nut just before the thread and the thread itself (although it's getting a bit old and could do with replacing). Also possible to protect from above for the second as you go back up and left after the crux. The drop down onto small footholds was exciting but after that it's an easy traverse. Merits the grade though.
with eszter
Good warm up and a nice enough route but wouldn't put it in the top 50. Crux felt quite intimidating, especially as it was damp, but it's well protected by a nut just before the thread and the thread itself (although it's getting a bit old and could do with replacing). Also possible to protect from above for the second as you go back up and left after the crux. The drop down onto small footholds was exciting but after that it's an easy traverse. Merits the grade though.
with eszter
Graeme Hammond 25 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S Turns out you need a lower tide thanit looked from the top to access the ledge below the climb (or abseil in more direct or doggy looking down-climb suggested in CC guide) so a fair amount of entertainment swinging left to gain the arĂȘte and starting ledge from the right whilst trying not to get wet just. Then managed to drop my belay device so not the best start to the route. Great route at least, generally climbed well apart from some gear faff at the cave, the traverse was almost bone dry and not that hard after which the climbing eases completely.
Turns out you need a lower tide thanit looked from the top to access the ledge below the climb (or abseil in more direct or doggy looking down-climb suggested in CC guide) so a fair amount of entertainment swinging left to gain the arĂȘte and starting ledge from the right whilst trying not to get wet just. Then managed to drop my belay device so not the best start to the route. Great route at least, generally climbed well apart from some gear faff at the cave, the traverse was almost bone dry and not that hard after which the climbing eases completely.
Bradbury 25 Jun, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 5 Jun, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 5 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Jun, 2016 Lead
Hidden 4 Jun, 2016 2nd
neilh ??, 2016 -
Hidden ?Sep, 2015 2nd
Mark Warnett ?May, 2015 Lead O/S Hot and tough
with Princess Diana
Hot and tough
with Princess Diana
tim newton 6 Apr, 2015 2nd rpt
Rachel Slater 6 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S Fun slither out of the cave.
Fun slither out of the cave.
Duncan Campbell 5 Apr, 2015 2nd Really good. Pretty steady all the way with a wild finish!
with malx
Really good. Pretty steady all the way with a wild finish!
with malx
Sarah Black 22 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S
dswansonlow 19 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S
Stuart Johnston 19 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S
with adam 24
with adam 24
adam 24 19 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
with Chris Hobbs, Stuart Johnston
with Chris Hobbs, Stuart Johnston
shed_hed 19 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S Superb! Coming out of the cave at the top looked so implausible for the grade.
Superb! Coming out of the cave at the top looked so implausible for the grade.
owain86 14 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Ed morris 28 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Greasy lower wall.
Greasy lower wall.
tim newton 21 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S greasy, finished up the headwall finish of 'play misty for me'
greasy, finished up the headwall finish of 'play misty for me'
nickstephens 12 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S
with gg4419
with gg4419
gg4419 12 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Amazing route, every type of climbing and fantastic exposure on top head wall, three stars!
Amazing route, every type of climbing and fantastic exposure on top head wall, three stars!
The Grist 21 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
Hidden 21 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
pipof747 29 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
clipskipper 8 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S Led the top pitch out over the roof. Fairly decent holds, but pumpy, and glad to get out onto easier ground. Good route.
with Davey Boy
Led the top pitch out over the roof. Fairly decent holds, but pumpy, and glad to get out onto easier ground. Good route.
with Davey Boy
Hidden 1 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S
markalmack 6 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
Andrew Sandercock 6 Apr, 2012 2nd O/S Pretty exciting on the traverse!
with Mark A
Pretty exciting on the traverse!
with Mark A
Hidden 29 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
Hidden 14 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 14 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 19 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 19 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2009 -
rdi1v07 29 Sep, 2008 TR
Chad123 17 May, 2008 AltLd rpt Bit slimy and slippy today, rain didn't help - full value!
with Emily
Bit slimy and slippy today, rain didn't help - full value!
with Emily
cem 26 May, 2007 Lead O/S
with GrahamD
with GrahamD
shoulders 26 May, 2007 Lead
with dai
with dai
feilx 25 Mar, 2007 Lead O/S
with msoldn
with msoldn
chris wyatt 22 Apr, 2006 2nd O/S
with Mike Barclay
with Mike Barclay
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Kev Little ??, 2006 Lead O/S
lukea 9 Apr, 2004 2nd O/S
with Al
with Al
steveb2006 16 Aug, 2003 2nd
with Roland Smith
with Roland Smith
gonggashan ?Apr, 2003 2nd
with Dave
with Dave
Billg ??, 2001 Lead O/S
Hidden ?May, 2000 2nd O/S
Tim M ??, 2000 -
sadams 29 Aug, 1998 Lead
with Pete Bukowski
with Pete Bukowski
Graham Iles 22 Aug, 1998 Lead
with Jenny Tweedy
with Jenny Tweedy
Steve Long ??, 1998 Lead
with Anita Long
with Anita Long
ArnaudG ??, 1998 -
Pete Wimbush ?Aug, 1996 Lead O/S
with Dave Langrish
with Dave Langrish
pete johnson 7 Jul, 1996 2nd
with Hughie
with Hughie
Tim Sparrow ?Jul, 1995 Lead
with Richie Rich
with Richie Rich
pauldrew ??, 1995 -
Dave Rumney ?May, 1994 -
neilh ??, 1994 Lead
with Neil Smith
with Neil Smith
mikej 6 Jun, 1993 Lead
with Mike Byles
with Mike Byles
Andy Say 27 May, 1993 Lead O/S
Bruce Kerr 13 Apr, 1993 Lead
with geomac
with geomac
Hidden 23 May, 1992 2nd
mattnuttall 5 May, 1991 Lead O/S was also E1
with Alan Holden
was also E1
with Alan Holden
Brian Wilderspin 31 Mar, 1991 -
with Perric Crellin
with Perric Crellin
Will Webb ?Nov, 1988 Lead
Alan James - UKC and UKH ?May, 1988 2nd
with Phil Baker
with Phil Baker
Neil McA 31 Aug, 1987 Lead O/S Brilliant!
with Richard White
Brilliant!
with Richard White
Hidden 5 Jul, 1987 Lead
Dave Musgrove 21 Apr, 1987 2nd
with Rupert Wyard
with Rupert Wyard
GuyM ??, 1985 -
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 14
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 14
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set