Rockfax Description
A popular climb which happily repelled teams for years when graded E1. The traverse right from the cave usually proves to be a bit taxing, especially when damp. In such conditions the direct finish (as for Play Misty for Me) isn't any harder. Start on a good ledge below an open slanting groove on the left-hand side of the wall. Climb the groove and then trend rightwards along a crack to another, steeper groove. This leads to the cave. Hard layback moves up and right leave you beneath a easier groove. Climb this and the easy upper wall to the top. © Rockfax

FA. C.Heard 25.7.81 25/Jul/1981

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

DubyaJamesDubya 17/Sep/17 Lead O/S
with Andrew Bevan
Katekeltie 01/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Fatboy
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 01/Jul/17 2nd O/S
msoldn ??/2017 2nd O/S
with Felix
Misha 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Good warm up and a nice enough route but wouldn't put it in the top 50. Crux felt quite intimidating, especially as it was damp, but it's well protected by a nut just before the thread and the thread itself (although it's getting a bit old and could do with replacing). Also possible to protect from above for the second as you go back up and left after the crux. The drop down onto small footholds was exciting but after that it's an easy traverse. Merits the grade though.

with Eszter
Graeme Hammond 25/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Turns out you need a lower tide thanit looked from the top to access the ledge below the climb (or abseil in more direct or doggy looking down-climb suggested in CC guide) so a fair amount of entertainment swinging left to gain the arête and starting ledge from the right whilst trying not to get wet just. Then managed to drop my belay device so not the best start to the route. Great route at least, generally climbed well apart from some gear faff at the cave, the traverse was almost bone dry and not that hard after which the climbing eases completely.

Bradbury 25/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Ollie B 05/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with A.Rosier
Hidden 04/Jun/16 Lead
Hidden 04/Jun/16 2nd
neilh ??/2016 -
Hidden ?/Sep/15 2nd
Mark Warnett ?/May/15 Lead O/S

Hot and tough

with Princess Diana
tim newton 06/Apr/15 2nd rpt
Rachel Slater 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Fun slither out of the cave.

Duncan Campbell 05/Apr/15 2nd

Really good. Pretty steady all the way with a wild finish!

Sarah Black 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
dswansonlow 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Stuart Johnston 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
adam 24 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Chris Hobbs, Stuart Johnston
shed_hed 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Superb! Coming out of the cave at the top looked so implausible for the grade.

owain86 14/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Chris
mike mo ??/2014 -
Ed morris 28/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Greasy lower wall.

with Martin
tim newton 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S

greasy, finished up the headwall finish of 'play misty for me'

nickstephens 12/Aug/13 2nd O/S
gg4419 12/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Amazing route, every type of climbing and fantastic exposure on top head wall, three stars!

The Grist 21/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
clipskipper 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led the top pitch out over the roof. Fairly decent holds, but pumpy, and glad to get out onto easier ground. Good route.

with Davey Boy
tebs 01/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Rich
markalmack 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Andrew Sandercock 06/Apr/12 2nd O/S

Pretty exciting on the traverse!

with Mark A
Hidden 29/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 19/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/09 -
rdi1v07 29/Sep/08 TR
Chad123 17/May/08 AltLd rpt

Bit slimy and slippy today, rain didn't help - full value!

with Emily
cem 26/May/07 Lead O/S
shoulders 26/May/07 Lead
with dai
feilx 25/Mar/07 Lead O/S
chris wyatt 22/Apr/06 2nd O/S
with Mike Barclay
Hidden ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
lukea 09/Apr/04 2nd O/S
with Al
Hidden 16/Aug/03 2nd
gonggashan ?/Apr/03 2nd
with Dave
Billg ??/2001 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/00 2nd O/S
Tim M ??/2000 -
sadams 29/Aug/98 Lead
with Pete Bukowski
Graham Iles 22/Aug/98 Lead
with Jenny Tweedy
Steve Long ??/1998 Lead
with Anita Long
ArnaudG ??/1998 -
pete johnson 07/Jul/96 2nd
with Hughie
Dave Rumney ?/May/94 -
neilh ??/1994 Lead
with Neil Smith
mikej 06/Jun/93 Lead
with Mike Byles
Andy Say 27/May/93 Lead O/S
Bruce Kerr 13/Apr/93 Lead
mattnuttall 05/May/91 Lead O/S

was also E1

with Alan Holden
Will Webb ?/Nov/88 Lead
Alan James - UKC and UKH ?/May/88 2nd
with Phil Baker
Neil McA 31/Aug/87 Lead O/S


with Richard White
Hidden 05/Jul/87 Lead
Dave Musgrove 21/Apr/87 2nd
with Rupert Wyard
GuyM ??/1985 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
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High E3
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High E1
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High 5c
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Votes cast 11
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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