45m.

Rockfax Description
A magnificent route up groovy rock. The protection is good, after the start, but the climbing is steep and sustained until you get to the headwall. Start on a ledge right of the recess and traverse left to reach the left-hand of two grooves above the pool. Contort up the groove to reach a wide crack, follow this then traverse right and up across the steep wall. Step around the juggy arete, in a superb position, into another groove. Climb this and the bulge above with difficulty. Finish more easily up the razor sharp headwall. © Rockfax

P Littlejohn 11/May/1978

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Chad123 2 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I found plenty of gear on this route, and you get plenty of hands off rests so it's not too bad really. The airy move round the corner is on the biggest jugs in the world and is pleasantly easy, only the top bulge is pumpy. Great fun! I think wall trained people will dislike the contorted shiny groove at the bottom but it's not that bad.....
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I found plenty of gear on this route, and you get plenty of hands off rests so it's not too bad really. The airy move round the corner is on the biggest jugs in the world and is pleasantly easy, only the top bulge is pumpy. Great fun! I think wall trained people will dislike the contorted shiny groove at the bottom but it's not that bad.....
Neil Binns 11 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I wasn't leading but I don't remember this being well protected
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I wasn't leading but I don't remember this being well protected
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Owen Diba 3 Aug Lead dnf Mega greasy so backed off after a few metres. Also managed to drop a nut into the apparently shallow pool below. Not so shallow after all. Had to get butt-naked and fully submerged in the pool to retrieve it.
Mega greasy so backed off after a few metres. Also managed to drop a nut into the apparently shallow pool below. Not so shallow after all. Had to get butt-naked and fully submerged in the pool to retrieve it.
john lynch 25 May 2nd O/S fantastic
with Lewis Andrew
fantastic
with Lewis Andrew
M_Robinson 25 May 2nd O/S Greasy at the bottom
Greasy at the bottom
jenslater 25 May Lead O/S Slippery conditions
Slippery conditions
Wil Treasure 18 May 2nd
with Ryan
with Ryan
Hidden 11 May 2nd O/S
Si Witcher 4 May Lead O/S
with Aggie T
with Aggie T
Hidden 21 Apr Lead O/S
FelixJT 24 Feb 2nd
WilliamRupp 24 Feb Lead O/S
with FelixJT
with FelixJT
Hidden 30 Aug, 2018 2nd β
valecoastclimber 21 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
ian d f 7 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S slippery
slippery
Hidden 7 Jul, 2018 2nd
Dexter JW 6 May, 2018 2nd O/S
with dbrooks
with dbrooks
dbrooks 6 May, 2018 Lead O/S
with Dexter
with Dexter
Ed Babs 5 May, 2018 Lead O/S Perhaps the highlight of the weekend
with Eddie Young
Perhaps the highlight of the weekend
with Eddie Young
Dale Comley 22 Apr, 2018 2nd O/S
with blaza1
with blaza1
blaza1 22 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S Climbs much better than it looks, great route
Climbs much better than it looks, great route
pie_eater_pete 5 Apr, 2018 Lead
bwestwood 5 Apr, 2018 2nd
Katekeltie 12 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Very enjoyable, got tired arms pulling over final steep bit, great positions.
Very enjoyable, got tired arms pulling over final steep bit, great positions.
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 12 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 2 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S After thinking this wall was overrated for years, this route finally changed my mind - a proper adventure and a fantastic + long pitch.
After thinking this wall was overrated for years, this route finally changed my mind - a proper adventure and a fantastic + long pitch.
penny.orr 2 Jul, 2017 2nd
Hidden 28 May, 2017 2nd dog
Kyuzo 13 May, 2017 -
Hidden 6 May, 2017 Lead O/S
Holister 6 May, 2017 2nd O/S
with Sash.C
with Sash.C
msoldn ??, 2017 2nd dog
with feilx
with feilx
JendeHoxar 16 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 16 Aug, 2016 2nd rpt
Mike_Hayes 29 May, 2016 Lead O/S
ben.meakin 29 May, 2016 2nd
Luxulyan 30 Apr, 2016 2nd
Sophie Nunn 30 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
Flavio 24 May, 2015 2nd
Hidden 24 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Sardien 18 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S One of the best lines ever. Such cool moves up the face and around the arete! What a place!
with nawface
One of the best lines ever. Such cool moves up the face and around the arete! What a place!
with nawface
James Oswald 5 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S Excellent route, great technical climbing.
with Nick Duboust
Excellent route, great technical climbing.
with Nick Duboust
Hidden 4 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
eel 4 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S
with Gwen
with Gwen
Hidden ?Apr, 2015 2nd O/S
Justin T ?Apr, 2015 Lead O/S Another quality Littlejohn route.
with Nick B
Another quality Littlejohn route.
with Nick B
Mark Warnett ?Apr, 2015 Lead O/S Wow! Doesn't get any better than this!
Wow! Doesn't get any better than this!
Hidden 14 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
Wil Treasure 14 Sep, 2014 2nd
dan gibson 31 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
with Misha
with Misha
Misha 31 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
Apharri 22 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Mega. Fav Pembroke E3 so far
with Dave Wharton
Mega. Fav Pembroke E3 so far
with Dave Wharton
Hidden 29 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Tim W 29 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S
with ali k
with ali k
quiffhanger 1 Jun, 2014 Lead rpt V fun but with a wet tricky crux. Thought I was going to have to do a full-on-rescue to retrieve my in-situ second.
V fun but with a wet tricky crux. Thought I was going to have to do a full-on-rescue to retrieve my in-situ second.
bigie bob 18 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S
pipof747 ?Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
Ellen Cobby 25 Aug, 2013 2nd dog
Adam Booth 25 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Brilliant.
Brilliant.
tim newton 24 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S
DubyaJamesDubya ?Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
with Andrew Bevan
with Andrew Bevan
Stefan_Morris 1 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S Quality route, Amazing!
Quality route, Amazing!
Ed morris 1 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Pure class, expecting the top section to be as good as the first half would just be greedy!
with stefan
Pure class, expecting the top section to be as good as the first half would just be greedy!
with stefan
Duncan Campbell 31 May, 2013 Lead O/S Amazing. Very greasy but with some traditional skills it was fine!
with Ollie B
Amazing. Very greasy but with some traditional skills it was fine!
with Ollie B
gravity 26 May, 2013 2nd dog Tide came in soon after we started. I got a bit wet on belay ledge, so leader (Hugh) had to belay at top of initial groove. I then hurriedly did first few moves in trainers, to escape advancing sea. Groove above was greasy and wet. Move around arete was superb. I found bulge (crux?) was difficult and strenuous. Memorable!
with Hugh Thomas
Tide came in soon after we started. I got a bit wet on belay ledge, so leader (Hugh) had to belay at top of initial groove. I then hurriedly did first few moves in trainers, to escape advancing sea. Groove above was greasy and wet. Move around arete was superb. I found bulge (crux?) was difficult and strenuous. Memorable!
with Hugh Thomas
colesy 6 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S Had to belay 30 foot up the route as the sea was big. Adam got wet! Brilliant route...
with Adam Mullholland
Had to belay 30 foot up the route as the sea was big. Adam got wet! Brilliant route...
with Adam Mullholland
dswansonlow 29 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S
with Emma Twyford
with Emma Twyford
Wil Treasure 2 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S
with matt
with matt
Hidden ??, 2013 2nd dog
Johnny Baker ??, 2013 - afternoon sun coinciding with lowish tide required
afternoon sun coinciding with lowish tide required
Hidden 8 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
burto 29 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
with hertha
with hertha
chris wyatt 13 May, 2012 Lead O/S very greasy start made it interesting. Great route
very greasy start made it interesting. Great route
markalmack 5 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 Apr, 2012 2nd O/S
Andrew Sandercock 5 Apr, 2012 2nd O/S
with Mark A
with Mark A
Hidden 1 Oct, 2011 2nd
cem 28 Aug, 2011 2nd Brilliant, and not as sustained as the guidebook would have you believe.
Brilliant, and not as sustained as the guidebook would have you believe.
drcorbasisgod 28 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
with cem
with cem
thomasadixon 18 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Great climbing, slight shame about the rambly top but it didn't bother me at the time! Best E3 I've done maybe.
with mwatson
Great climbing, slight shame about the rambly top but it didn't bother me at the time! Best E3 I've done maybe.
with mwatson
Ian Jones 17 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Superb with a very hard crux bulge. Only just made it.
with Robert Durran (aka 'Big Bob')
Superb with a very hard crux bulge. Only just made it.
with Robert Durran (aka 'Big Bob')
mwatson ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 Lead O/S
datoon 30 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
with K
with K
Hidden 15 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 14 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S
soph ?Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
with Dan McManus
with Dan McManus
Tim M 30 May, 2010 Lead O/S Great route - not as continuously sustained as the guide makes out.
Great route - not as continuously sustained as the guide makes out.
climbergg 30 May, 2010 2nd
with Tim M
with Tim M
irish paul 17 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
with Andy F
with Andy F
Paz 13 Apr, 2009 Lead dnf Down climbed as it was wet.
with R?
Down climbed as it was wet.
with R?
DavidEvans 26 Aug, 2007 2nd
Adam Ellwood 26 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV 5 May, 2007 Lead O/S
with Al
with Al
Hidden 9 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
feilx 24 Mar, 2007 Lead O/S
with msoldn
with msoldn
haydng ??, 2007 Lead O/S
with Rob
with Rob
Mark Riley 11 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S Initial groove and crack was wet, I probably went right a little early. Oops :)
with Steve
Initial groove and crack was wet, I probably went right a little early. Oops :)
with Steve
Chubbard 9 Apr, 2006 2nd O/S
with C Godfrey
with C Godfrey
Chad123 ?Apr, 2006 Lead O/S Awesome route, nice steep, airy moves and the route just keeps going. Not bad first E3 as all hard moves are well protected.
with Huw
Awesome route, nice steep, airy moves and the route just keeps going. Not bad first E3 as all hard moves are well protected.
with Huw
Kev Little ??, 2006 Lead RP
Gus 29 May, 2005 Lead β
Billg ??, 2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 31 May, 2003 Lead O/S
pete johnson 1 Sep, 2002 Lead O/S
with Lun
with Lun
steveb2006 16 Sep, 2001 2nd Good route
with Dave Taylor
Good route
with Dave Taylor
Hidden 23 May, 1998 Lead O/S
sadams 2 May, 1998 Lead O/S
with John Boyle
with John Boyle
Hidden ?May, 1998 Lead O/S
phil64 ??, 1998 Lead O/S
Si Clapham ??, 1998 Lead
with Moggs
with Moggs
gooberman-hill 23 Jun, 1996 Lead O/S Lovely - seem to recall I found it easier tha I was expecting
with Nick Hancock
Lovely - seem to recall I found it easier tha I was expecting
with Nick Hancock
Steve Crowe 6 Apr, 1996 Lead O/S
with karin
with karin
neilh ??, 1996 2nd
with Neil Smith
with Neil Smith
Andy Edgar ??, 1996 Lead O/S loved it despite greasy start, very pleased .
with Hugh Woodland
loved it despite greasy start, very pleased .
with Hugh Woodland
Hidden ??, 1995 2nd
Dave Rumney ??, 1994 2nd
pauldrew ??, 1993 -
Hidden 28 May, 1989 -
Steve Lewis 19 Jun, 1988 Lead O/S
with Clive Curle
with Clive Curle
andy gittins ??, 1988 -
Mike Owen 22 Apr, 1984 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Hidden ??, 1982 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 May, 1981 Lead
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
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Votes cast 29
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Votes cast 30
Votes cast 28
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
Not Set