57m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
This route is a wild, crazy trip into the bowels of the earth. It starts as for Quoin, and traverses into the low sea cave to the right, thereafter firing up through a massive blowhole system, to arrive at the top blowhole exit (see photo right). Big, big adventure! Please note that the route is much harder when it's soaking wet. In perfect conditions it may only be HVS, in normal conditions it is around E2, and in wild conditions it is even harder and inadvisable. Check the blowhole exit before you commit, as this gives you an idea of how wet the route is likely to be - it does occasionally dry out, especially with a strong, dry southerly blowing. Head torches very much required (as is an easy-going sense of humour). But then again, there's also that first ascent date!
1) 5b, 15m. Traverse rightwards into the cave, aiming for its apex. Ape into the cave to reach a good belay 4m inside, on a boulder choke.
2) 5a, 10m. Bridge inwards to where the cave widens. Committing but surprisingly easy moves across the left wall lead to a corner beneath daylight. Belay here.
3) 5a, 25m. Follow the corner above to one of the strangest finishes at Pembroke. © Rockfax

P Dearden, D Scott-Maxwell 01/Apr/1995

Ticklists

Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, The troglodyte squeeze specials, Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Through Routes!, MIA logbook must haves!, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, Ultimate E2 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, MUMC Ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, Type 2 Fun, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), James' Summer Ticklist, Becky's ticklist, UK Holiday Plans, Magical mysterious and unusual beasts of rock & myth, Thank god I don't have to do that again, Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5

Feedback

UserDateNotes
chris wyatt 2 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: One of the most dangerous undertakings I have ever done. Climbed far chimney instead of wall. 2nd pitch took 3 hours of complete concentration on slime. This is not climbing its caving. DONT DO IT!!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One of the most dangerous undertakings I have ever done. Climbed far chimney instead of wall. 2nd pitch took 3 hours of complete concentration on slime. This is not climbing its caving. DONT DO IT!!!
DSM 17 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Although I've only done Preposterous Tales the once - on a dark damp day in April, without torches, chalk or prior knowledge of the route - I recall some debate as to the grade. Did it merit HVS or VS? It appears that one can be so wrong sometimes!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Although I've only done Preposterous Tales the once - on a dark damp day in April, without torches, chalk or prior knowledge of the route - I recall some debate as to the grade. Did it merit HVS or VS? It appears that one can be so wrong sometimes!
John Alcock 16 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: PS. You should include the High Life in the next guide. It's as good as Dream of White Horses. E1/2 5c.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: PS. You should include the High Life in the next guide. It's as good as Dream of White Horses. E1/2 5c.
John Alcock 16 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: One of Britain's finest climbing adventures. The grade varies wildly. On a damp dark December day with a big sea running and no torch it felt like E4. I've met people who've climbed it in perfect conditions who swear it's only HVS. Very high failure rate ( I've often watched retreated parties while doing neghbouring climbs.)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One of Britain's finest climbing adventures. The grade varies wildly. On a damp dark December day with a big sea running and no torch it felt like E4. I've met people who've climbed it in perfect conditions who swear it's only HVS. Very high failure rate ( I've often watched retreated parties while doing neghbouring climbs.)
GrahamD 9 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: This route is a serious undertaking - far more so than other Pembroke routes of E2. Do not go near it if a big sea is running - even 50' up in the cave you will catch the waves and it ain't funny. The first traverse pitch is actually technically the hardest (about 5b), often damp and protection is adequate but not great until the chockstone is reached. After this, retreating is not really an option.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route is a serious undertaking - far more so than other Pembroke routes of E2. Do not go near it if a big sea is running - even 50' up in the cave you will catch the waves and it ain't funny. The first traverse pitch is actually technically the hardest (about 5b), often damp and protection is adequate but not great until the chockstone is reached. After this, retreating is not really an option.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Oscar-Stafford 5 Oct Solo O/S crisp and dry like a good wine. best quality route ive done today.
crisp and dry like a good wine. best quality route ive done today.
Hidden 8 Sep AltLd O/S
WB 26 Aug AltLd O/S Average.
Average.
markalmack 26 Aug AltLd O/S Piss wet
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
Piss wet
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
JendeHoxar 24 Aug AltLd rpt
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 24 Aug AltLd O/S Type 1 all the way. As slick and wet as a seal, obviously. Would happily repeat again, but next time with two head torches!
Type 1 all the way. As slick and wet as a seal, obviously. Would happily repeat again, but next time with two head torches!
danieljames123 28 Jul Lead Hilarious route, one of my favorite climbing experiences. As a caver I'm a bit biased to enjoy this sort of thing though
with lbenn1
Hilarious route, one of my favorite climbing experiences. As a caver I'm a bit biased to enjoy this sort of thing though
with lbenn1
Craigyboy13 28 Jul 2nd
with Trystan
with Trystan
jimxxx 7 Jul AltLd O/S lead first and third pitch .Craig lead the second pitch and the whole experience was wild and like no other climb .Brilliant old school adventure .
with Craig
lead first and third pitch .Craig lead the second pitch and the whole experience was wild and like no other climb .Brilliant old school adventure .
with Craig
craig.potter 7 Jul AltLd O/S Should be on everyone’s tick list
Should be on everyone’s tick list
Bernie L 6 May AltLd O/S
with Brown
with Brown
Brown 6 May AltLd
M_Robinson 5 May AltLd P1 and 3. Great to get on and do this after bailing out a few years ago
with Adam24B
P1 and 3. Great to get on and do this after bailing out a few years ago
with Adam24B
khalidq 21 Apr AltLd O/S
with Binder
with Binder
Binder 21 Apr AltLd O/S What an extraordinary route. I led p2. A very solid lead from Khalid on a tough first pitch. Finding a way inside the cave was bizarre, very wet and slippery holds but somehow it all went. An amazing atmosphere with the water boiling below, waves booming in and cutting off the light. Air rushing up and down the skylight. Preposterous indeed.
with khalidq
What an extraordinary route. I led p2. A very solid lead from Khalid on a tough first pitch. Finding a way inside the cave was bizarre, very wet and slippery holds but somehow it all went. An amazing atmosphere with the water boiling below, waves booming in and cutting off the light. Air rushing up and down the skylight. Preposterous indeed.
with khalidq
Hidden 20 Apr AltLd O/S
Hidden 20 Apr AltLd O/S
iainJ 20 Apr AltLd Lead pitch 2. Great route, proper adventure and well recommended if you really want to climb 'in' Pembroke. Technical crux is P1 but the preposterousness is at its peak on pitch 2. The final words from fellow adventures Chris and Paul, who we met en-route, just before I left the final stance sum this up fairly well - 'If that's the way, then I'm in deep shit'.
Lead pitch 2. Great route, proper adventure and well recommended if you really want to climb 'in' Pembroke. Technical crux is P1 but the preposterousness is at its peak on pitch 2. The final words from fellow adventures Chris and Paul, who we met en-route, just before I left the final stance sum this up fairly well - 'If that's the way, then I'm in deep shit'.
Ed morris 28 Dec, 2018 AltLd O/S Like being in the cinema seat when the volume reverberates through the seat! Led P1 + P3.
with Louis
Like being in the cinema seat when the volume reverberates through the seat! Led P1 + P3.
with Louis
Duncan Campbell 25 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Weird! Led all pitches. Middle one is an impressive feat of route finding!
with Greg Pittam
Weird! Led all pitches. Middle one is an impressive feat of route finding!
with Greg Pittam
Scott Quinn 13 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Wild beyond words no head torches wild swell high tide after 24 hours solid rain made for an unforgettable experience..... Good or bad? Who knows - type 3 fun
Wild beyond words no head torches wild swell high tide after 24 hours solid rain made for an unforgettable experience..... Good or bad? Who knows - type 3 fun
Tom.Priestley 13 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S In 2 pitches, led the inside pitch. Totally wet, no headtorches, getting dark, high tide, big swell, nuff said.
In 2 pitches, led the inside pitch. Totally wet, no headtorches, getting dark, high tide, big swell, nuff said.
Martin Bagshaw 3 Aug, 2018 AltLd dnf Backed off for the second time! This time it was really wet, last time waves were crashing too high. Should have probably told others we were going for it too. Got further at least. Will led the second pitch, and got to slippery flat holds with no feet and didn't fancy the voyage into the unknown and probable slip off.
Backed off for the second time! This time it was really wet, last time waves were crashing too high. Should have probably told others we were going for it too. Got further at least. Will led the second pitch, and got to slippery flat holds with no feet and didn't fancy the voyage into the unknown and probable slip off.
Wil Treasure 3 Aug, 2018 AltLd dnf Too wet and scary for me!
Too wet and scary for me!
mcgovern 1 Jul, 2018 AltLd standard E2 terrain
with dc
standard E2 terrain
with dc
Hidden 1 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Hidden ?Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
blaza1 10 Jun, 2018 AltLd dog Pulled on a bit of gear to work out where to go, great route
with Edgar Kennard
Pulled on a bit of gear to work out where to go, great route
with Edgar Kennard
JoeCoxson 2 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Up there with th maddest routes ever. I was ready to back off from the second pitch from wetness and the description making no sense at all, but a committed approach got us through. Definitely type-2 fun at times ...
with aiyer
Up there with th maddest routes ever. I was ready to back off from the second pitch from wetness and the description making no sense at all, but a committed approach got us through. Definitely type-2 fun at times ...
with aiyer
aiyer 2 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Type II... The penny drops when I finally realise what 'ape into the cave' means...
Type II... The penny drops when I finally realise what 'ape into the cave' means...
dcussen 1 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Spookiest pitch in the Irish Isles!!
Spookiest pitch in the Irish Isles!!
Hidden 7 May, 2018 2nd
Hidden 1 Apr, 2018 2nd
thebigeasy 28 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Awesome. Don't think you can call your self a trad climber until you have done this!! Soaking wet. Don't know how this ever dries out.
with Ryan
Awesome. Don't think you can call your self a trad climber until you have done this!! Soaking wet. Don't know how this ever dries out.
with Ryan
Hidden 28 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
andyinglis 30 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Crazy route but also some of the finest perma-wet rock I have climbed in years...! The pitch grades are wack.
Crazy route but also some of the finest perma-wet rock I have climbed in years...! The pitch grades are wack.
Neil Adams 30 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Brilliant!
Brilliant!
Alex Mason 27 May, 2017 Lead rpt 10 years later... A dark, intense, commmitting, slippery trip.
with Jemma Powell
10 years later... A dark, intense, commmitting, slippery trip.
with Jemma Powell
Ali D 16 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S lead P1 and 3. completely mental
lead P1 and 3. completely mental
Ross Davidson 16 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S What an adventure!! Lead P2. The description both in CC and RF are deceptive and I think that adds to the fun of the route. I tried 3 different ways to climb a 10m pitch before I worked out where I need to go.
with Ali D
What an adventure!! Lead P2. The description both in CC and RF are deceptive and I think that adds to the fun of the route. I tried 3 different ways to climb a 10m pitch before I worked out where I need to go.
with Ali D
Hidden ??, 2017 -
msoldn ??, 2017 AltLd O/S
with feilx
with feilx
The old James turnbull 23 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S Brilliant
with aiden
Brilliant
with aiden
mattnuttall 30 Aug, 2016 AltLd dnf hell's bell's... attempt 2 went better than last year's aborted adventure - we found the thing... and got as far as being deeply committed high on the very steep, very wet left wall of the cave on P2 - Rockfax suggests you keep to the left... I suggest you don't... retreat by jumping backwards for a sling I had threaded round a very old stuck nut (wires completely corroded) very nearly took whipper into darkness and possibility of having to be lowered into water below. Reversed P2 and P1 to arrive at base of Bosherston Head in the last of the evening light... Nice :-)
hell's bell's... attempt 2 went better than last year's aborted adventure - we found the thing... and got as far as being deeply committed high on the very steep, very wet left wall of the cave on P2 - Rockfax suggests you keep to the left... I suggest you don't... retreat by jumping backwards for a sling I had threaded round a very old stuck nut (wires completely corroded) very nearly took whipper into darkness and possibility of having to be lowered into water below. Reversed P2 and P1 to arrive at base of Bosherston Head in the last of the evening light... Nice :-)
Andrew Wilson 30 Aug, 2016 AltLd dnf again
again
mike lawrence? 15 Aug, 2016 AltLd i thought this would be a great soft tick but it was like squirming into a devils cathedral. Never again.
i thought this would be a great soft tick but it was like squirming into a devils cathedral. Never again.
JendeHoxar 14 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14 Aug, 2016 AltLd
Ed Babs 9 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Led P1 & the scramble out if the blowhole. All wet in the cave. Initially calm sea got up a bit whilst we were in there. Unnerving 'Boom!' every few seconds. Communication difficult. Head torches essential. You should let someone know you are doing this as the consequences of failure are serious. Alex really enjoyed it, but I needed to do a couple of 'normal' climbs afterwards to restore my faith in the joy of climbing.
with AlexD
Led P1 & the scramble out if the blowhole. All wet in the cave. Initially calm sea got up a bit whilst we were in there. Unnerving 'Boom!' every few seconds. Communication difficult. Head torches essential. You should let someone know you are doing this as the consequences of failure are serious. Alex really enjoyed it, but I needed to do a couple of 'normal' climbs afterwards to restore my faith in the joy of climbing.
with AlexD
AlexD 9 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Hooray! Finally got on/in this! Almost slipped off entering the cave after proclaiming it'd be pretty impossible to fall off here, or words to that effect! Luckily managed to get myself wedged just in time! Led p2, questing into the darkness, and most of p3 till drag necessitated a belay below the blowhole (praise the sun!). A lot more intimidating than expected, gear was tricky and it felt a big responsibility protecting the second. A definite step up from Benny at Swanage!
with Ed Babs
Hooray! Finally got on/in this! Almost slipped off entering the cave after proclaiming it'd be pretty impossible to fall off here, or words to that effect! Luckily managed to get myself wedged just in time! Led p2, questing into the darkness, and most of p3 till drag necessitated a belay below the blowhole (praise the sun!). A lot more intimidating than expected, gear was tricky and it felt a big responsibility protecting the second. A definite step up from Benny at Swanage!
with Ed Babs
cdpuk 22 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Julian P1, Pete P2, me P3. The very definition of Type 2 Fun. Started at about 17:30 and topped out at around 22:10! Doing it in a 3 is possible, but not recommended. Despite the recent heatwave and dry conditions for the best part of two weeks, the cave was damp and slippery everywhere. The sea was calm but the shape of the cave had it creating the most immense BOOM every few seconds. Headtorches are essential and radios strongly recommended. Rope twists on P2 required me to [safely] untie, remove the twists, and get back on. Totally agree with giving it E2 due to the seriousness of the route; route finding is not completely straightforward, it would be very tricky to reverse, calling for rescue is impossible and even swimming would be unthinkable.
Julian P1, Pete P2, me P3. The very definition of Type 2 Fun. Started at about 17:30 and topped out at around 22:10! Doing it in a 3 is possible, but not recommended. Despite the recent heatwave and dry conditions for the best part of two weeks, the cave was damp and slippery everywhere. The sea was calm but the shape of the cave had it creating the most immense BOOM every few seconds. Headtorches are essential and radios strongly recommended. Rope twists on P2 required me to [safely] untie, remove the twists, and get back on. Totally agree with giving it E2 due to the seriousness of the route; route finding is not completely straightforward, it would be very tricky to reverse, calling for rescue is impossible and even swimming would be unthinkable.
Pete Randall 22 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22 Jul, 2016 AltLd
Whorlhill 25 Jun, 2016 AltLd
Small and weak 25 Jun, 2016 AltLd
ian d f 4 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Led half of p2 and p3. Adventurous
Led half of p2 and p3. Adventurous
pearson9596 4 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
with ian d f
with ian d f
pimpy 30 May, 2016 AltLd led last pitch
with Ferdia
led last pitch
with Ferdia
ferdia 30 May, 2016 AltLd O/S such an unlikely route, incredible place to be. intimidating and lonely enough even though we had malc and clare's voices somewhere ahead in the dark to keep us company. led first 2 p;itches
with Will Grayson
such an unlikely route, incredible place to be. intimidating and lonely enough even though we had malc and clare's voices somewhere ahead in the dark to keep us company. led first 2 p;itches
with Will Grayson
outdoors.nick 30 Apr, 2016 2nd dog
andy dunn 16 Apr, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Tom, J
with Tom, J
elliptic 16 Apr, 2016 AltLd
with Tom R.
with Tom R.
JulesV 27 Sep, 2015 AltLd Starting at sunset with a team of 4 and 3 headtorches was perhaps not the best of plans. Memorable though!
with Rich Smith, Theo Botha, Will Boxen
Starting at sunset with a team of 4 and 3 headtorches was perhaps not the best of plans. Memorable though!
with Rich Smith, Theo Botha, Will Boxen
gurumed 26 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S Lead all pitches. I'll never be the same.
with Brian H
Lead all pitches. I'll never be the same.
with Brian H
Hidden 26 Sep, 2015 2nd O/S
richsmithinbristol 26 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Harrowing misadventure. Climbed into the cave as the sun set; emerged several hours later, thankfully all four of us intact. Retrospective fun.
with billb
Harrowing misadventure. Climbed into the cave as the sun set; emerged several hours later, thankfully all four of us intact. Retrospective fun.
with billb
billb ?Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Done with 4 of us and not enough head torches after susnet. I think it was fun?
Done with 4 of us and not enough head torches after susnet. I think it was fun?
andy_pemberton 18 Jul, 2015 Lead
with Steve Gibson
with Steve Gibson
pipof747 30 May, 2015 Lead O/S
dan gibson 23 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Eszter
with Eszter
debsb ??, 2015 -
adie84 ??, 2015 -
pete johnson 13 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Slimy wet greasy soapy slippy minging marvellous. Not sure Kev enjoyed it!
with Kevin Sales
Slimy wet greasy soapy slippy minging marvellous. Not sure Kev enjoyed it!
with Kevin Sales
gg4419 6 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Pitch one and three
Pitch one and three
nickstephens 6 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Still buzzing :) what an epic 3d climbing experience which is wild and bold. Don't agree with HVS in any way or form but well worth the adventure. Possibly not the best after a chunderring hangover but out of the sun at least ;) For all of you wish list guys, in the style of the monty Python french guardsman, I sticka my fingers up at vous. Go and embrace the subterranean :)
with gg4419
Still buzzing :) what an epic 3d climbing experience which is wild and bold. Don't agree with HVS in any way or form but well worth the adventure. Possibly not the best after a chunderring hangover but out of the sun at least ;) For all of you wish list guys, in the style of the monty Python french guardsman, I sticka my fingers up at vous. Go and embrace the subterranean :)
with gg4419
philhilo 23 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Awesome fun, though Helen thought type 2 fun. Pitch 2 wet but made no difference.
with heg
Awesome fun, though Helen thought type 2 fun. Pitch 2 wet but made no difference.
with heg
tim newton 17 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
Rachel Slater 17 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Had a mare trying to lead the second pitch by going really low (high just seemed wrong?!) but it felt desperate so backed off it (Tim then went high) then I lead the last pitch. Caving!
Had a mare trying to lead the second pitch by going really low (high just seemed wrong?!) but it felt desperate so backed off it (Tim then went high) then I lead the last pitch. Caving!
brices 27 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S What a great adventure
What a great adventure
dannyboy83 22 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Ridiculous
with beneole
Ridiculous
with beneole
john lynch 18 May, 2014 AltLd O/S What a journey! Sopping wet cave climbing of the highest order.. Probably the most adventurous route to date. led pitches 1 and 3
with Lewis Andrew
What a journey! Sopping wet cave climbing of the highest order.. Probably the most adventurous route to date. led pitches 1 and 3
with Lewis Andrew
jonleighton 16 May, 2014 AltLd O/S Brilliant adventure! Got quite cold by the end.
Brilliant adventure! Got quite cold by the end.
Adam Booth 21 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S Worth doing if you want an adventure, but don't do it for the climbing!
Worth doing if you want an adventure, but don't do it for the climbing!
Ed Booth 21 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S Wet! Caving!
Wet! Caving!
Twisty 19 Apr, 2014 AltLd rpt 3rd time I've done it, led first and last this time to let Phil have the meaty cave pitch. This time it was definitely towards the HVS side. (Very dry)
with Phil Baxter
3rd time I've done it, led first and last this time to let Phil have the meaty cave pitch. This time it was definitely towards the HVS side. (Very dry)
with Phil Baxter
Maken 19 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S Wow end of first pitch = mental and all of second pitch = mental!!! all in all, Mental!
Wow end of first pitch = mental and all of second pitch = mental!!! all in all, Mental!
tonevert 18 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S
with Kevin Faux
with Kevin Faux
Hidden 18 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
Kevster 18 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S Didn't enjoy this route - poor climbing, but good adventure. I am a climber, not a caver it seems. P2 & 3 can be run together. You can also head up where the cave widdens, this'll be the HVS version...
Didn't enjoy this route - poor climbing, but good adventure. I am a climber, not a caver it seems. P2 & 3 can be run together. You can also head up where the cave widdens, this'll be the HVS version...
fennerz 18 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S Madness
with Angus Kille
Madness
with Angus Kille
gi 16 Mar, 2014 AltLd
with arose
with arose
arose 16 Mar, 2014 AltLd Great fun!
with gi
Great fun!
with gi
Frank the Husky ??, 2014 -
Hidden 13 Oct, 2013 AltLd
steve.warrington 1 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S Out of this world, climbing in one of the most exposed settings ever
Out of this world, climbing in one of the most exposed settings ever
Hidden 1 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
Longsufferingropeholder 31 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Just unreal. Spectacular route. We spent a long time talking ourselves into this. Led 1&3. Ed towed the end of our ab rope across P1 and we left it coiled on the ledge just in case. That made us feel a bit happier. The only real issue was where CC guide says "bridge up into the darkness". Don't. It's clearly a solid roof. Instead you go on into the cave a bit and turn hard right, stepping across. Took us ages to work that out. Other than that we found it all fairly steady, but it was dry. This would be a really really bad place for anything to go wrong.
Just unreal. Spectacular route. We spent a long time talking ourselves into this. Led 1&3. Ed towed the end of our ab rope across P1 and we left it coiled on the ledge just in case. That made us feel a bit happier. The only real issue was where CC guide says "bridge up into the darkness". Don't. It's clearly a solid roof. Instead you go on into the cave a bit and turn hard right, stepping across. Took us ages to work that out. Other than that we found it all fairly steady, but it was dry. This would be a really really bad place for anything to go wrong.
Jim Slater 28 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P1 & P2.
Led P1 & P2.
jlismore 28 Aug, 2013 AltLd
CJEFF 11 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S TR lead pitch 1 and I linked 2 and three together.
with Thomas Ramsdon
TR lead pitch 1 and I linked 2 and three together.
with Thomas Ramsdon
Hidden 10 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 3 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
Jacob k-d 23 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
The Grist 21 Jul, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 21 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Andrew1 14 Jul, 2013 AltLd
with Hulda
with Hulda
Hulda 14 Jul, 2013 AltLd
with Andrew1
with Andrew1
Alice Thompson 1 Jul, 2013 AltLd Slightly scary, but a great experience
with Andrew Porter, Michael Porter
Slightly scary, but a great experience
with Andrew Porter, Michael Porter
Hidden 1 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
david wands 8 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
Rob84 25 May, 2013 2nd O/S
with Mason, Ben Wolstenholme
with Mason, Ben Wolstenholme
jonnyboy 25 May, 2013 AltLd O/S Also With rob dyer. Lead the 1st and last pitches.
with Ben Wolstenholme
Also With rob dyer. Lead the 1st and last pitches.
with Ben Wolstenholme
Twisty 6 May, 2013 Lead O/S Led all the pitches. Remembered the start being hardest before, followed by middle with the last being the easiest. This time the whole thing reveresed. It just got harder and harder - mainly due to the wet holds. There's normally a train of people to follow too, so with us being the first party it was a great adventure but also more interesting route finding. Take long extenders!
with Greg Slee
Led all the pitches. Remembered the start being hardest before, followed by middle with the last being the easiest. This time the whole thing reveresed. It just got harder and harder - mainly due to the wet holds. There's normally a train of people to follow too, so with us being the first party it was a great adventure but also more interesting route finding. Take long extenders!
with Greg Slee
Hidden 6 May, 2013 AltLd O/S
jacobjacob 4 May, 2013 Lead O/S started at 4, finished at 11pm... bit of an epic! Bron couldn't find the way on second, and we couldn't hear/see each other. Eventually Jacob and Sam turned up as another team and were able to show her the way. Then we ended up with 4 of us on the hanging belay, below the last pitch, in the dark, with 2.5 head torches to go round... Fun times!
started at 4, finished at 11pm... bit of an epic! Bron couldn't find the way on second, and we couldn't hear/see each other. Eventually Jacob and Sam turned up as another team and were able to show her the way. Then we ended up with 4 of us on the hanging belay, below the last pitch, in the dark, with 2.5 head torches to go round... Fun times!
Stanners 20 Aug, 2012 AltLd dnf https://vimeo.com/48137489
https://vimeo.com/48137489
JamesRich 20 Aug, 2012 2nd dnf
Hidden 20 Aug, 2012 AltLd dnf
JBO 10 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Led the first and last pitches, soaking wet! Also forgot the headtorches so I was panicking a bit before the second pitch but we found the way to daylight eventually. Well done to Dave for an awesome first ascent!
Led the first and last pitches, soaking wet! Also forgot the headtorches so I was panicking a bit before the second pitch but we found the way to daylight eventually. Well done to Dave for an awesome first ascent!
Hidden 5 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
CragDog 5 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
benchwarmer 14 Apr, 2012 2nd O/S
barni 14 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S fisrt and second pitches
with fra
fisrt and second pitches
with fra
Ollie B 17 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S P2, Preposterous route! awesome to have done it, not sure ill do it again though.
with L.Postlewaith
P2, Preposterous route! awesome to have done it, not sure ill do it again though.
with L.Postlewaith
Hidden 17 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
Graeme Hammond 15 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S led pitches 1 & 2. Top route.
led pitches 1 & 2. Top route.
jlismore 15 Aug, 2011 AltLd
HappyTrundler 13 Aug, 2011 AltLd dnf One of the most traumatic climbing days ever. I had the old rockfax guide with it down at HVS. These days I consider myself a reasonably competent low e grade climber, however this felt more like caving than climbing. The second pitch was streaming in water so reversed back from the crux to the belay and reversed the first pitch. I would even suggest E3 just to discourage any aspiring E2 leaders...if it goes wrong down there you are in serious trouble...no one can throw a rope down and you can't abb off, there is no leader or second on this climb, in fact probably worse and more dangerous to second. I have no desire to go back in there again, ever.
with Irish Pete
One of the most traumatic climbing days ever. I had the old rockfax guide with it down at HVS. These days I consider myself a reasonably competent low e grade climber, however this felt more like caving than climbing. The second pitch was streaming in water so reversed back from the crux to the belay and reversed the first pitch. I would even suggest E3 just to discourage any aspiring E2 leaders...if it goes wrong down there you are in serious trouble...no one can throw a rope down and you can't abb off, there is no leader or second on this climb, in fact probably worse and more dangerous to second. I have no desire to go back in there again, ever.
with Irish Pete
thomasadixon 12 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Great fun, easy climbing but soaking wet - the rain probably didn't help! Probably HVS if it was dry.
with mwatson
Great fun, easy climbing but soaking wet - the rain probably didn't help! Probably HVS if it was dry.
with mwatson
Mark Kemball 9 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Matt Gordon
with Matt Gordon
Hidden 29 May, 2011 2nd dnf
jkarran 27 Apr, 2011 AltLd Led P1 and P3 in reasonably good conditions. A simply brilliant outing. Some good banter and wacky maneuvers had us in fits of laughter the whole way though I regretted forgetting my helmet. One of the most enjoyable routes I've ever done, it's hard to recommend this kind of top notch weirdness highly enough!
with Smith, GrantB, Aly
Led P1 and P3 in reasonably good conditions. A simply brilliant outing. Some good banter and wacky maneuvers had us in fits of laughter the whole way though I regretted forgetting my helmet. One of the most enjoyable routes I've ever done, it's hard to recommend this kind of top notch weirdness highly enough!
with Smith, GrantB, Aly
Hidden 27 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Ally Smith 27 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
with jkarran
with jkarran
GrantB 27 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S
with jkarran, Robertson, Ally Smith
with jkarran, Robertson, Ally Smith
Byronius Maximus 27 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S Put simply; one of the best routes I've ever done. Done on a dry day when the weather had been good for a few weeks so conditions were pretty good, with only a small amount of slime on holds in the cave. Looking at other comments, it seems that conditions play a huge part in people's enjoyment of this route! The second pitch is a real adventure with fun (and slightly unnerving) route finding and great three-dimensional climbing.
with Twisty
Put simply; one of the best routes I've ever done. Done on a dry day when the weather had been good for a few weeks so conditions were pretty good, with only a small amount of slime on holds in the cave. Looking at other comments, it seems that conditions play a huge part in people's enjoyment of this route! The second pitch is a real adventure with fun (and slightly unnerving) route finding and great three-dimensional climbing.
with Twisty
squicky 26 Apr, 2011 2nd dnf Partner went all the way to the belay point and then came back. Decided it wasn't a good time to have a potential epic as it looked like a storm. Was down as HVS in our guide.
with spidey
Partner went all the way to the belay point and then came back. Decided it wasn't a good time to have a potential epic as it looked like a storm. Was down as HVS in our guide.
with spidey
Adam Coles 24 Apr, 2011 Lead
with ben1987
with ben1987
ben1987 24 Apr, 2011 2nd dog Had 1 fall coming into the cave, was too low and to a good swing into the cave! great fun and climbing isnt difficult if you stick to the route!! well worth a go.
Had 1 fall coming into the cave, was too low and to a good swing into the cave! great fun and climbing isnt difficult if you stick to the route!! well worth a go.
Paul Boggis ??, 2011 AltLd
mwatson ??, 2011 -
scott titt ??, 2011 AltLd
Adam Coles ??, 2011 AltLd O/S Adventure! Led 1st pitch.
Adventure! Led 1st pitch.
hrgcb 25 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S lead 1st pitch, Virgil the 2nd and Joe the 3rd. Slimy but fun
with Virgil Scott, Joe Prinold
lead 1st pitch, Virgil the 2nd and Joe the 3rd. Slimy but fun
with Virgil Scott, Joe Prinold
Hidden 25 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
metal arms 29 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S All pitches
All pitches
Hidden 17 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S
Dave Foster 17 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Lead P2. Good to see it gets the crux on here. Slippery, dark and dangerous. Not to be repeated, and bollocks to HVS - two of us are steady at E2 and one on-sighting 7a/b, we all thought we were jam.
with Andy and Si
Lead P2. Good to see it gets the crux on here. Slippery, dark and dangerous. Not to be repeated, and bollocks to HVS - two of us are steady at E2 and one on-sighting 7a/b, we all thought we were jam.
with Andy and Si
Hidden 13 Jun, 2010 Lead
gnc760 12 Jun, 2010 AltLd dnf Stuck to the dodgy Rockfax description and came off about 8m away from the belay on P2. Took the most incredible fall swinging back through the cave. Prussiked out with a hex. Epics
with James Kay
Stuck to the dodgy Rockfax description and came off about 8m away from the belay on P2. Took the most incredible fall swinging back through the cave. Prussiked out with a hex. Epics
with James Kay
Hidden 10 May, 2010 -
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Sarah Black 18 Oct, 2009 AltLd O/S
irish paul 18 Oct, 2009 AltLd O/S Serious fun, the rockfax description seemed wrong, who knows! Such a feeling when you get out into daylight
with Sarah Joyce
Serious fun, the rockfax description seemed wrong, who knows! Such a feeling when you get out into daylight
with Sarah Joyce
Kyuzo 11 Oct, 2009 - Didn't finish. New rockfax guide is very misleading for pitch 2! Don't stick to left wall when it broadens out, go upwards and chimney your way on the right, then back left? Should've read the CC guide for a better description
with Joe Prinold
Didn't finish. New rockfax guide is very misleading for pitch 2! Don't stick to left wall when it broadens out, go upwards and chimney your way on the right, then back left? Should've read the CC guide for a better description
with Joe Prinold
ian d f 12 Sep, 2009 AltLd dnf what a nasty route. we had a bit of an epic once in the cave, my partner went down and sort of across in the second pitch - which was apparently very dodgey (especially fot the second, me!) so he came back,not without difficulty and resting on a dodgy nut! why go out of the sun and away from the lovely friction to go down a greasy dangerous hole?!
with Pete H
what a nasty route. we had a bit of an epic once in the cave, my partner went down and sort of across in the second pitch - which was apparently very dodgey (especially fot the second, me!) so he came back,not without difficulty and resting on a dodgy nut! why go out of the sun and away from the lovely friction to go down a greasy dangerous hole?!
with Pete H
Richard Hession 27 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S Best route ever.
with Stu
Best route ever.
with Stu
Hidden 21 Sep, 2008 AltLd
Cowflinger 23 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S In my top ten clims of all time
with Dai Morris
In my top ten clims of all time
with Dai Morris
Hidden 17 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
Paul ablitt 17 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
with Rushy
with Rushy
Hidden 31 May, 2008 Lead dnf
Hidden 29 Aug, 2007 AltLd
TGreen 9 Jun, 2007 AltLd dog led 1st and 3rd pitch, scary stuff!
with James Cross
led 1st and 3rd pitch, scary stuff!
with James Cross
Alex Mason 4 May, 2007 Lead O/S an adventure to be had simply for the feeling when you finally escape, top pitch is the crux with a slippery, thrutchy mantle before the sprint for terra firma.
an adventure to be had simply for the feeling when you finally escape, top pitch is the crux with a slippery, thrutchy mantle before the sprint for terra firma.
Ram MkiV 4 May, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Al
with Al
Hidden 30 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S
feilx 24 Mar, 2007 AltLd O/S
with msoldn
with msoldn
Hidden ??, 2007 AltLd
Hidden 27 Aug, 2006 AltLd O/S
NeilGriffiths 25 Aug, 2006 -
with Sean
with Sean
lukea ?Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Al
with Al
Mike H 1 Jun, 2006 AltLd
with Jamie Smith
with Jamie Smith
lukea 16 May, 2006 Lead O/S
with Al
with Al
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH ??, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Bry
with Bry
nathanmanc ??, 2006 Lead O/S
with Chris Todd
with Chris Todd
Boy ??, 2006 -
belay bunny turned bad ??, 2005 -
Hidden ??, 2005 AltLd dog
chris wyatt ??, 2005 AltLd O/S Major Epic
with barrie doyle
Major Epic
with barrie doyle
ASchwirtz 7 Jun, 2004 Lead O/S Graham, Carl, Silly route, very serious, could easily end up dead!
Graham, Carl, Silly route, very serious, could easily end up dead!
Just Another Dave ??, 2003 Lead O/S Simply amazing.
with cathy?
Simply amazing.
with cathy?
Hidden 27 Aug, 2002 AltLd O/S
steveb2006 27 Jul, 2002 AltLd Just before doing this bump into John Sumner and here of his somewhat harrowing story - this is on our minds while we journey into the gloom on this route and its strangely apt name. Dave leads p1, Paul Tatton p2 and me p3.
with Dave Taylor
Just before doing this bump into John Sumner and here of his somewhat harrowing story - this is on our minds while we journey into the gloom on this route and its strangely apt name. Dave leads p1, Paul Tatton p2 and me p3.
with Dave Taylor
Hidden ??, 2002 Lead
Billg 18 Sep, 2000 AltLd also harry
with Megan Beaumont
also harry
with Megan Beaumont
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 2000 -
dickypips ??, 2000 -
with Steve James
with Steve James
haydng ??, 2000 -
andy_pemberton ??, 2000 Lead Done years back. Memory fades but it didn't seem to be E2.
Done years back. Memory fades but it didn't seem to be E2.
Tim M ??, 2000 -
Hidden ?Jun, 1999 -
debsb ??, 1999 -
nickdonohue 31 Aug, 1998 AltLd Truly awesome! Don't get any beta (apart from both should bring headtorches!). Just do it!
with Derek Ashworth
Truly awesome! Don't get any beta (apart from both should bring headtorches!). Just do it!
with Derek Ashworth
Nick Haine 2 May, 1998 AltLd
Dave Cundy ?May, 1998 AltLd O/S Took us 7 hrs, due to uncertainty with route finding on p1 and p2.
with Denis Carrigan
Took us 7 hrs, due to uncertainty with route finding on p1 and p2.
with Denis Carrigan
Hidden ??, 1998 -
Dave Rumney ??, 1998 -
Hidden ??, 1998 Lead
phardman ??, 1998 AltLd O/S Came out after the range had closed. Was hard to explain to the guard at the gate that we were underground and had lost track of time...
with Jon Bibby
Came out after the range had closed. Was hard to explain to the guard at the gate that we were underground and had lost track of time...
with Jon Bibby
Hidden ?Jun, 1997 AltLd O/S
Marti999 ?Jun, 1997 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 1997 AltLd
Hidden 3 May, 1997 2nd O/S
Hidden ?May, 1997 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 1997 AltLd
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ??, 1997 AltLd
with Gerry Arcari
with Gerry Arcari
RichardMc ?Aug, 1996 AltLd
with Steve Gould
with Steve Gould
michael burrows 7 Jul, 1996 AltLd O/S
with mark ryan
with mark ryan
gooberman-hill 23 Jun, 1996 Solo O/S Wow. I really must have been going well!
with Nick Hancock
Wow. I really must have been going well!
with Nick Hancock
Tim Sparrow ??, 1995 AltLd HVS when I did it!
HVS when I did it!
pauldrew ??, 1995 AltLd dnf Failed to find route inside cave - was graded HVS 5a at the time.
with Paul Glossop
Failed to find route inside cave - was graded HVS 5a at the time.
with Paul Glossop
duncan ??, 1995 AltLd O/S Date approximate, shortly after FA. No description other than 'traverse into the cave and climb out', from DS-M in the pub. Hot and sunny day, mostly dry, great fun, felt about HVS.
with Dan Donovan
Date approximate, shortly after FA. No description other than 'traverse into the cave and climb out', from DS-M in the pub. Hot and sunny day, mostly dry, great fun, felt about HVS.
with Dan Donovan
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 35
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 55
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set