Rockfax Description
A hard classic. Start below and 10m left of the big corner of Bludgeon. Climb up to a niche below the crack. Pull up to the mid-height break and then launch yourself into the upper crack (usually past some stuck wires). Climb it to the top. © Rockfax

FA. B.Wyvill 04/May/1981

Ticklists: Ultimate E3 ticklist.

JenShelley 10/Aug 2nd
FlavioL1989 10/Aug Lead O/S
andyinglis 04/Aug Lead O/S


Neil Adams 04/Aug 2nd O/S


Ed morris 17/Sep/16 Lead β
Stefan_Morris 17/Sep/16 2nd O/S
Juan S 11/Sep/16 Lead dnf

Got lost into this climb while attempting to do a severe (Maelstrom Chimney). Didn't finish, left 3 pieces behind.

Greg Cunningham 08/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Hidden 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S
WB 02/Jul/16 Lead O/S
markalmack 02/Jul/16 2nd rpt

not fun

mike lawrence? 02/Jul/16 2nd

completely desperate

with FatRob
belay bunny turned bad 30/May/16 2nd
with Iain M
dan gibson 29/May/16 Lead O/S
with richard lade
Hidden 29/May/16 Lead O/S
markalmack 08/May/16 2nd O/S
Duncan Campbell 08/May/16 Lead O/S

Quite a tough middle section. Thought I was going to drop it due to fatigue at this being the last route of the weekend.

with Almadad
Ollie B 24/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Hard for the grade and good.

with B.Brewer
Adam24B 04/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Wow, hard, took me a while to calm down and breath after the crux! After that I managed to enjoy it.

Kris2fa 04/Apr/16 2nd dog
with Adam24B
mike mo ??/2016 -
Brian H 17/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Steep, but the protection is so good and easy to place that you can bomb up it. Felt low in the grade.

Ricky Rocks 31/May/14 Lead O/S

Classic Pem's pumper, not the best choice for a warm up!!

Pippa 04/May/14 Lead O/S


mountain_jay 04/May/14 2nd dog

Greased out of the crack at the crux. The rock seemed to get very greasy about 30 mins after we arived, as the sun left and the temperature dropped. Think it would have felt hard anyway.

Pippa 04/May/14 Lead O/S


Adam Booth 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Had a moment at the bottom of the crack!

Ed Booth 18/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/13 Lead β
Hidden 22/Aug/13 TR dog
jcw ??/2013 -
Hidden 21/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 21/Aug/11 2nd O/S
thomasadixon 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Mike
hamish2016 02/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Wil Treasure
drysori 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Very greasy, even late in the day. Good climbing, but only for the last 40-50 feet.

with hamdunn
Hidden 25/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Toby Dunn 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Andy Reeve
mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
harold walmsley 04/Jun/10 2nd β
with Colin Struthers
feilx 29/May/06 Lead O/S
with Chris Froud
Hidden 02/May/06 Lead RP
Hidden 30/Apr/06 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Rock Fairy ?/Jul/01 2nd

HARD crack section. Had to lie down when i topped out!

with david
Billg 18/Sep/00 Lead O/S
with Megan Beaumont
Hidden 01/May/99 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby ?/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Robin
sadams 31/Mar/97 Lead
with John Boyle
duncan 29/Mar/97 Lead O/S
Roget 23/Jun/95 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden 27/Aug/94 Lead O/S
Steve Lewis 25/Jun/89 Lead O/S
with Alun Richardson
steveb2006 04/Oct/87 2nd
with Gez Morgan
Mark Kemball 21/Apr/84 Lead
with Dave Hall
jon 08/Jan/84 Lead
with H
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 17
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 15
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set