Rockfax Description
The right-most climb on the wall is another classic which is probably best combined with Scorch the Earth. Start at the right-hand end of the wall beneath a wide crack high up. Climb up to the bulge and pull over directly to a peg (there is a sneaky little rightwards bypass around this move which is a bit easier). Move easily up to the base of the wide crack. A delightful traverse leftwards leads to a ledge below a bulge. Either finish direct (as for Scorch the Earth), or make a hard move up and left into Bloody Sunday. © Rockfax

FA. G.Gibson 27/Apr/1984

Ticklists

Ultimate E4 ticklist

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UserDateNotes
Ged Desforges 29 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: just amazing climbing. Even avoiding the bit pastr the peg i'd say pretty hard for E4. Thought it about the same as minotaur.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: just amazing climbing. Even avoiding the bit pastr the peg i'd say pretty hard for E4. Thought it about the same as minotaur.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
ellis 6 Jul Lead O/S A bit damp but well chalked, desperate span left to gain the second thread. Went up from the top thread then pulled out L.
with Tom Bridgeland
A bit damp but well chalked, desperate span left to gain the second thread. Went up from the top thread then pulled out L.
with Tom Bridgeland
Ramon Marin 27 May 2nd
with Ed Morris
with Ed Morris
Ed morris 27 May Lead β Had done all but the crux moves when climbing the other routes.
with Ramon
Had done all but the crux moves when climbing the other routes.
with Ramon
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 9 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Left-hand start
with Theo Moore
Left-hand start
with Theo Moore
Hidden ??, 2017 -
Twid Turner ??, 2016 -
khawk 31 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S scorch the earth finish
scorch the earth finish
FATBOYFAT ??, 2015 -
phil64 ?Apr, 2014 Lead rpt
with tom livingstone
with tom livingstone
benka 7 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Scorch the earth finish
Scorch the earth finish
cooperman 6 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S with Scorch the earth finish
with Greg Foster
with Scorch the earth finish
with Greg Foster
ksjs 6 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Superb and very satisfying. Took the detour right of the peg, bit bold but very cool traverse back left via a mini runnel. Got quite spent trying to sort gear in the unhelpful pocket out left from the stuck on blobs section (just above the short, steep pocketed wall). Up and down 5? times at the thread but decided it was too warm and I was too tired to get full benefit from the diagonal rail above the thread. Thought it would be easy to slink off into Bloody Sunday - wrong! I found the move up from the huge slot thing hard and thought I was off; I'd just spent too long on this. In retrospect JAD is straightforward with good gear, I just got sucked in. Regardless, it felt to me like if you did finish on STE (even without having gone direct at the start via peg) you'd be knocking on the door of E5.
Superb and very satisfying. Took the detour right of the peg, bit bold but very cool traverse back left via a mini runnel. Got quite spent trying to sort gear in the unhelpful pocket out left from the stuck on blobs section (just above the short, steep pocketed wall). Up and down 5? times at the thread but decided it was too warm and I was too tired to get full benefit from the diagonal rail above the thread. Thought it would be easy to slink off into Bloody Sunday - wrong! I found the move up from the huge slot thing hard and thought I was off; I'd just spent too long on this. In retrospect JAD is straightforward with good gear, I just got sucked in. Regardless, it felt to me like if you did finish on STE (even without having gone direct at the start via peg) you'd be knocking on the door of E5.
Duncan Campbell 2 Jun, 2013 Lead β Awesome. Very hard crux sequence, had no idea what to do until Dave gave me the beta! Got to the Scorch the Earth thread and wanted to be at the top. The moves into Bloody Sunday aren't easy and you have to go for it above the gear...
with Ollie B
Awesome. Very hard crux sequence, had no idea what to do until Dave gave me the beta! Got to the Scorch the Earth thread and wanted to be at the top. The moves into Bloody Sunday aren't easy and you have to go for it above the gear...
with Ollie B
dannyboy83 19 May, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2012 Lead O/S
john nightingale 13 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Finished direct into Scorched Earth. Felt like E5 but was quite wet.
with Fran S8
Finished direct into Scorched Earth. Felt like E5 but was quite wet.
with Fran S8
Pippa 25 Apr, 2011 2nd
owenH ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 Lead O/S
Daniel Wicks 16 Oct, 2010 Lead Hard but superb!
Hard but superb!
The Mountain Goat 16 Oct, 2010 2nd dnf Overestimated my seconding ability, que diagonal abseil by the leader and fun climbing back up the abseil rope.
with Dan Wicks
Overestimated my seconding ability, que diagonal abseil by the leader and fun climbing back up the abseil rope.
with Dan Wicks
Hidden 13 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
phil64 ??, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 3 Oct, 2009 Lead dnf
Chad123 16 May, 2009 AltLd dog About as close to an on-sight as you can get - tickled the last jug a few times and missed the hidden incut bit of it...doh, still one rest not bad for a pretty tough E4 all in all...
with Humble and Emily
About as close to an on-sight as you can get - tickled the last jug a few times and missed the hidden incut bit of it...doh, still one rest not bad for a pretty tough E4 all in all...
with Humble and Emily
ASchwirtz 26 Aug, 2007 2nd dog Hard - very hard
with Neil Hills
Hard - very hard
with Neil Hills
Hidden 17 Jun, 2007 2nd
Paz 17 Jun, 2007 Lead dnf Freaked out about a rocking block and climbed back down sharpish.
Freaked out about a rocking block and climbed back down sharpish.
janegallwey ??, 2007 2nd
Boy ??, 2006 -
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 -
Hidden ??, 2003 Lead O/S
sadams 16 Aug, 1998 2nd
with Pete Bukowski
with Pete Bukowski
Hidden 4 Jun, 1998 2nd
sadams 30 Mar, 1997 2nd
with John Boyle
with John Boyle
Dave Musgrove Jnr 11 Sep, 1996 Lead O/S
with Al Willoner
with Al Willoner
Greg Cunningham ?Jun, 1996 Lead O/S
Roget 24 Jun, 1995 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
jfletcher 28 May, 1994 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?Aug, 1993 Lead
with Graham Iles
with Graham Iles
Hidden ?Apr, 1993 Lead O/S
AlexRenshaw 22 Aug, 1992 2nd
with Dor? Green
with Dor? Green
geoff b 25 Aug, 1991 Lead 6 falls on the top wall!
with Martin Corbett
6 falls on the top wall!
with Martin Corbett
Billg 1 Aug, 1990 Lead O/S
with Jon Barton
with Jon Barton
Eduardo Martinez 28 May, 1990 Lead O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 27 May, 1990 Lead
DDDD ??, 1990 Lead O/S
with Simon Lee
with Simon Lee
Neil McA 11 Jul, 1987 Lead O/S
with Martin Mandel
with Martin Mandel
Hidden 7 Jul, 1987 Lead
andy gittins ??, 1987 -
Hidden 15 Jun, 1986 Lead
Mike Owen 26 May, 1986 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
UKB Shark 10 Apr, 1986 Lead
with Seb Grieve
with Seb Grieve
UKB Shark 4 Apr, 1986 Lead dnf
Ian Carr 27 May, 1985 -
with Mick Hardwick
with Mick Hardwick
Gary Gibson 27 Apr, 1984 Lead First ascent on ‘just another day’. Direct at the bottom with no slinking off to the right
with Hazel
First ascent on ‘just another day’. Direct at the bottom with no slinking off to the right
with Hazel
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High E3
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Votes cast 16
High 6b
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Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
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DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set