Restricted Access
Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack. The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care. B
Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:
Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014
John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m
Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine
D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay
April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to" D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)
Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac .
Rockfax Description
The right-hand crack is equally popular but tends to be a little dirtier if anything due to it being right in the abseil line. © Rockfax
FA. S.Bancroft, B.Newman 07/Apr/1980.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| henry james | 2 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Watch out for loose rock, particularly in the final third. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Watch out for loose rock, particularly in the final third. |
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| derekm | 4 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: It doesn't look much but the moves are good and the bulgy bit is interesting: agree with above comments. It's great for a poor day or when things are quiet. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: It doesn't look much but the moves are good and the bulgy bit is interesting: agree with above comments. It's great for a poor day or when things are quiet. |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 8 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Much better than it looks, but it is a popular abseil line, so be really careful. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Much better than it looks, but it is a popular abseil line, so be really careful. |
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| Alan James - Rockfax | 23 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Polish not a problem on this. The holds are big enough to cope. Good climbing. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Polish not a problem on this. The holds are big enough to cope. Good climbing. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head
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Galactic Glory
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Hollow Caves Bay)