Rockfax Description
A superb climb which leads you on with a lazy lower groove and then smacks you with a savage finishing crack. Start below the open groove and stroll up this to the left-hand of three cracks which sprout from its end. Arrange plenty of gear then attack the crack with everything you've got. Traverse right and finish easily above. © Rockfax

FA. P.Whillance 02/Jan/1978

Ticklists: Ultimate E2 ticklist.

Hannes B 29/Aug 2nd
with Charlie, Sarah A
Hidden 29/Aug 2nd
CharlieMack 29/Aug Lead O/S
with Sarah adkin, Hannes
J_Spooner 29/Aug Lead O/S
with Anna Sharpe
Lenny 28/Aug Lead rpt
with Agnas
Hidden 28/Aug 2nd O/S
jon22 25/Aug Lead
Hidden 24/Aug 2nd
Hidden 23/Aug Lead O/S
Lessworkmoreclimbing 23/Aug Lead O/S

Misread guide about the committing move - getting into the final crack is fine but then suddenly insecure jams, off balance feet, thought I was going to fall. Rammed in a probably poor cam. Just made it to the break and safety- top route (afterwards!)

with Kev
Hidden 13/Aug 2nd
bryan61 13/Aug Lead O/S
with sally
cem 05/Aug Lead O/S

Not convinced there's a 5c move on this.

Brodes 05/Aug 2nd O/S
with cem
Matt Harle 16/Jul Lead O/S
with Sophia, Dave S
Nickc 12/Jul 2nd O/S
with Simon lee
ukb & bmc shark 12/Jul Lead
with Nick Conway
Holister 08/Jul Lead O/S
with Tash
ian bryant 16/Jun Lead O/S
harry_lewis 16/Jun 2nd O/S
MSchobitz 16/Jun Lead O/S

Cool final crack! Even if a little covered in birdshit in the hand-traverse!

afrosam 29/May 2nd O/S
with Pippa
PaulTanton 29/May Lead rpt
with Spenser Grey
brian watson 20/May Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins
pie_eater_pete 05/May Lead O/S
with bwestwood
Mark Pickrell 17/Apr 2nd O/S
with Dick
Hidden 17/Apr Lead
Kirill 15/Apr Lead
with Ilia
Jake Young 15/Apr Lead O/S

found the bottom tricky getting into the groove. got involuntary disco leg at the top while placing cam despite being on solid jams.

with Fran
Ilia Nadyrbayev 15/Apr 2nd
Hidden ??/2017 -
The old James turnbull 22/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with aiden
mountain.martin 12/Oct/16 Lead rpt
with Edmund
Chris_barr 11/Sep/16 2nd
with Jo
JendeHoxar 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S
M_Robinson 18/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Adam Bowman, Chris Shepherd
Adam24B 18/Aug/16 2nd
with Chris shephard, Mike Robinson
La Mont 18/Aug/16 2nd β
with Ellis
Luke Brooks 16/Aug/16 Lead rpt
with Kate
The Grist 07/Aug/16 2nd
Ed Babs 04/Aug/16 2nd O/S

Head wall crack much easier than the Rockfax guidebook suggests.

with AlexD
AlexD 04/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Ed
eel ?/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Lakesben 03/Jul/16 2nd
with Mark
Jack93 24/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Should definitely have placed some gear at the top of it to protect the pendulum for Jake...

j_aaake 24/Jun/16 2nd
Hidden 31/May/16 Lead O/S
JulesV 31/May/16 Lead rpt
Duncan Campbell 28/May/16 Lead O/S

Also seconded on the tuesday as Anna was keen to climb but I was having a rest day

with Mikey G
Matt Cooke 28/May/16 Lead O/S
with Sam Taylor
Dizz 22/May/16 2nd O/S
with Mike grant
Hidden 08/May/16 Lead O/S
Shauna ?/May/16 2nd RP
with Jules
Andy Peak 1 29/Apr/16 Lead O/S

One move

with Theo
elliptic 17/Apr/16 2nd
with Tom R.
Ellis Bird ??/2016 Lead O/S
Frances Bensley 06/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/15 2nd
benkelsey 15/Aug/15 2nd O/S

Much easier than the guide suggests but still ace.

with Shaun Humphreys
shaunhumphreys 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S

reading the description got me psyched for a grit style struggle but turned out to be quite technical

mynyddresident 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Tricky warm up, ran it out from the start of the headwall which probably wasn't sensible.

with KP
James Marshall 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with sash
alastairbegley 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Final crack was pretty pumpy for the first route of the day

with Richard
Luxulyan 07/Jun/15 2nd
with Alastair
Hidden 25/May/15 2nd
Hidden 25/May/15 Lead O/S
dan gibson 24/May/15 Lead rpt
with Eszter
markalmack 23/May/15 2nd O/S
brices 16/May/15 2nd rpt
with Edd, Llinos
mike lawrence? 16/Apr/15 Lead
with FatRob
MichaelGallimore 11/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Nice moves through the roof

with Andy Cmc
Graeme Hammond 07/Apr/15 Lead rpt

As we were in the area again and it was very enjoyable on 2nd

with Chris Hindley
Graeme Hammond 06/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Llinos C 05/Apr/15 Lead
chrisscutt 04/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with oly
Hidden 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S
ollie_e 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Feels committing going through the final roof!

brices 04/Apr/15 2nd β

good moves on the headwall

with Llinos
nathanlee 03/Apr/15 2nd
with Rob Greenwood
Wil Treasure 03/Apr/15 Lead
Hidden 03/Apr/15 2nd
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 03/Apr/15 Lead O/S

In the rain...

Dean Russell 03/Apr/15 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 02/Apr/15 2nd rpt

Very wet

with Will
bede.west ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S

an un expected lead after partner backed off. good route

with German loui
NuclearNev ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden 28/Sep/14 Lead
nuts and bolts ?/Sep/14 -
tash 31/Aug/14 2nd

Top crack pumpy but on surprising good holds. Lower half better than it looks too.

with ali k
Hidden 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Pippa 22/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with Jon
Misha 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Found getting into the groove unexpectedly hard, whereas starting the final crack was unexpectedly easy as the handholds are really good - they soon get worse though, thus earning the grade. A bit pumpy placing fiddly gear at the top of the crack (didn't have the right size cam to stick into the crack so faffed around with the break), easier to just traverse right but the second won't appreciate that!

with Nic
ian d f 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S
stevorobs3 23/Jun/14 2nd O/S
dannyboy83 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
john lynch 16/May/14 Lead O/S

Pulled the block off at the base of the groove, fortunately not hurting too much and no affecting the route.

with Lewis Andrew
Rachel Slater 07/May/14 2nd O/S
Justin T 07/May/14 Lead O/S

Last route of the day, climbed in down jacket over four layers as the wind-driven spray from a fair swell heckled me up. Top crack felt fine, stopped and laced it with gear from reasonable jams and footholds.

with Rachel
mountain_jay 05/May/14 Lead O/S

Climbed up and down the crux what must have been three times!! The gear was great, just I felt nervous about landing back on the ledge. Great looking crack from the ab in.

Pippa 05/May/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 03/May/14 2nd O/S
The Grist 19/Apr/14 2nd
PaulTanton 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
Hidden 24/Nov/13 2nd O/S
Dibdawg 12/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Richard Lade
John Nuttall 01/Sep/13 2nd
with Jon
charles-green ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Nice face climbing into a groove, followed by a cool steep crack.

Hidden 11/Aug/13 2nd dog
cooperman 05/Jul/13 Lead β

one barn door move on top crack

with Greg Foster
Hidden 03/Jul/13 Lead O/S
tatz45 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Will Harris
Hidden 29/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Alice Thompson 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Michael Porter
Sarah Black ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Dennis999 05/May/13 2nd dog

Too hard the first route of the day, got pumped out and fell

with Remus
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/13 Lead O/S
Tubs 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Steady for E2 if you can jam.

with Dave M
barni 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Oates
irish paul ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S
dswansonlow 13/Aug/12 2nd O/S
jacobjlloyd 13/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Dougie
shoulders 10/Aug/12 Lead β
mikeshewring 10/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Wil Treasure ?/Aug/12 2nd
with Dunc
Hidden 15/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Ollie B 19/May/12 Lead O/S
with B.Gregory
Billg 19/May/12 2nd
with Ollie
ellis 19/May/12 Lead O/S

Also fell off, backed off and rested on some other objectives...

with Alan Willoner
Luke Brooks 15/Apr/12 Lead dog

Stupid foot slip on the crux, on the rope before I knew it.

with Glyn Hudson, Konrad Doyle
david morse 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Josh,Nath+Mikey
Glyn 14/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Luke
Oddjob 07/Apr/12 Lead dog

2 Falls on the headwall

with Markus
haydng 06/Apr/12 2nd rpt
with Dave
Hidden 05/Apr/12 2nd
Hidden 05/Apr/12 Lead
Lenny 24/Mar/12 2nd dog
with John
Ciro 18/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Ramon
Ramon Marin 17/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with ciaran tracey
Hidden 25/Sep/11 Lead dog
EmilyElouise 25/Sep/11 2nd dog
Hidden 17/Sep/11 2nd
Wil Treasure 17/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Jon L
Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Becca
BeccaSnowden 28/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Tom
Hidden 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Speeddemonsi 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S
tonanf ?/Aug/11 AltLd
with john sun
Hidden 23/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Tomar 23/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Harry, Rafael
lukehodson 16/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Top crack was excellent, not as hard as it looks from below

mountain.martin 14/Jul/11 Lead β

Well protected and quite easy for E2 if you find the hidden hold quickly. Direct (well slightly diagonally right) finish from the break is pretty easy and more logical than traversing the break.

Stefan_Morris 09/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Awesome top section!

Ed morris 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with stefan
dan gibson 01/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with richard lade
Rich Guest 27/May/11 Lead O/S

Potential solo romp for me to the top crack and despite huge anticipation otherwise, fair old romp from there too. Running out from good high gear was the best strategy it would seem

Hidden 27/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead O/S
duncan 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Pippa 23/Apr/11 Lead
with Jon
mwatson ??/2011 -
nickcanute ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
PAJames ??/2011 -
Dan Lane 02/Sep/10 2nd dog

good climbing, especially the top crack, which i managed to layback all but one move, where i had to rest, and switch to jamming.

NeilGriffiths 27/Aug/10 2nd
with Dave Garry, Simon Frost
frost 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with N Griffiths, D Garry
Dr Caterpillar 23/Aug/10 2nd O/S

savage crack indeed!

with Al
RagingPuffin 23/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Loz
Alex Mason 18/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Cool exposed finishing crack.

with Laura Perry, Mikey G
London Luke 14/Aug/10 Lead

some gear was preplaced

with si Hill
ASchwirtz 14/Jun/10 Lead dog
with Cocky
adam coxsell 14/Jun/10 2nd
with ant
Hidden 14/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/10 2nd O/S
gnc760 11/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with James Kay
Rob Pitt 24/May/10 2nd
with Nick Arding
nick arding 24/May/10 Lead O/S
with rob pitt
nick arding 24/May/10 Lead O/S
with rob pitt
Adam Booth 22/May/10 TR

El had given up by then, so had to top rope it.

Richard Hall 04/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Adam M
TiffTiff 13/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with Crazy Tom, Phil
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
cymjt ??/2010 -
Richard Horn 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
simonp ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Andy Reeve
Shauna 15/Aug/09 2nd

pleased to get this clean - ish. although I'll confess to a bit of a tight rope.

with Steve
Rob Pitt 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Owen Davies
Rob Grant ?/Jul/09 Lead
with Lindy
DafSWMC 21/Jun/09 2nd O/S
chris wyatt 21/Jun/09 Lead O/S

A 'go for it' move nearly had me doubting.

with Daf
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/09 2nd
Shauna 24/May/09 2nd dog
with Jules
Chad123 18/May/09 AltLd dog

Bad choice of warm up, cold and damp and hung around on crux for too long putting gear in....doh...

with James Humble
Hidden 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Mar/09 2nd
Andrew Sloan 31/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Martin Haworth 31/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Andy
Mark Stevenson 27/May/08 Lead O/S
with not seconded
Julian Wedd ??/2008 Lead
with A. Howarth
JulesV ??/2008 Lead O/S
irish paul 04/Nov/07 Lead dog

Ooooooooh,hard work, 8m whipper after running out crux, oops

with Steinar
Docent 06/Oct/07 Lead dog
with stecu
feilx 26/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Heather
Hidden 20/Aug/07 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 29/May/07 Lead O/S

Very good. Well worth doing

with Dave Taylor
Dan_Carroll 28/May/07 Lead O/S
with Rebecca Holland
Beck Robinson 28/May/07 2nd dog
haydng ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Rob
Billg ??/2007 Lead O/S
RichS-Bristol ??/2007 -
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Neil Ireson 20/Jul/06 Lead
with Jane
Hidden 29/Jun/06 Lead rpt
chris j 24/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with James & Doug
Mark Riley 10/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Steve
Hidden 22/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/06 2nd dog
Mark Davies PK ?/Apr/06 2nd O/S
with Fiend
belay bunny turned bad ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Boy ??/2006 -
Brown 30/Jul/05 2nd
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 22/May/05 2nd
with Tuffty Nick
Bella 17/May/05 2nd O/S
with Helen
Hidden 14/Apr/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
daveayton ??/2005 Lead O/S
GuyM ??/2005 -

shouting "awesome dude" at the top to make sarah feel at home!

with jim
a_radiohead_fan ??/2005 -
msoldn 15/Jul/04 2nd O/S
with Carlos
alex_th 09/Apr/04 2nd
with Tim Riley
PaulTclimbing ??/2002 -
with Johnjames, Trelewis gang, Neville, Adrian, Neil, Howell graham
Hidden 17/Sep/01 2nd
Hidden 29/May/01 Lead O/S
dickypips ??/2001 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2001 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/00 Lead
DubyaJamesDubya 17/Jun/00 2nd O/S

Very strenuous for a few moves.

with Trevor Stevens, Adrian Casey
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
John Southworth ?/May/99 Lead O/S
with Stone Elworthy
Rich Kirby ?/Aug/98 2nd rpt
with Robin
nickdonohue 24/Aug/97 Lead

superb, my first E2

with Caley Latham, Dave Chapman
jfletcher 23/Aug/97 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby ?/Jun/97 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/97 2nd
Hidden 06/Apr/97 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/1997 Lead
Steve Long ??/1997 Lead
Hidden ?/May/96 2nd
tmawer 14/Aug/95 Lead O/S
with chris king
Andy Say 14/Apr/95 Lead
NickJH ?/Aug/94 -
Hidden 29/Aug/93 2nd
Hidden 29/Aug/93 2nd
Hidden 29/Aug/93 Lead
Hidden 28/Aug/93 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?/Aug/93 Lead
with Graham Iles
Alan James - UKC and UKH 24/Jul/93 Lead
with Lewis Grundy
innes ?/Aug/92 Lead O/S
with Chris
Hidden 02/May/92 Lead
nuts and bolts ?/Apr/92 -
Roget 05/Sep/91 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden 05/Jul/91 2nd
steve taylor ?/May/91 Lead
with steve kerr
Rich Kirby 16/Apr/90 Lead O/S
Robmwatt ??/1990 -
Hidden 30/May/89 Lead
Bruce Kerr 24/Mar/89 2nd
Hidden ??/1989 Lead
AlexRenshaw 19/Sep/87 2nd
with Dor? Green
Steve Crowe 18/Apr/87 Lead O/S
wynaptomos ?/Mar/87 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Feb/87 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Feb/87 2nd
andy gittins ??/1987 -
keefe 18/Feb/86 -
Hidden 16/Jul/85 2nd
John Marsland 27/May/85 Lead

given HVS at the time

with George Shaw
ukb & bmc shark 11/Apr/85 Lead O/S
with Triss Kenny
ukb & bmc shark 08/Apr/85 Lead O/S
steve.aisthorpe 08/Apr/85 2nd
with shark
Neil R 07/Apr/85 2nd
with Mark
Greg Cunningham ??/1985 Lead
tapley 26/Apr/84 2nd
with John Sumner
Mike Owen 08/Apr/83 Lead O/S
with Lew Brown, Elaine Owen
Mark Kemball 30/Mar/83 Lead
with Simon Yates
Dave Musgrove 10/Apr/82 Lead
with Mike Butler, Andy Wild
Steve Lewis ??/1982 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1982 -
Hidden 22/Nov/81 2nd
jon 22/Nov/81 -
with Ian
Hidden 02/Jan/78 2nd
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 46
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 42
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set