Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack. The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care. B
Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:
Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014
John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m
Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine
D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay
April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to" D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)
Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac .
Rockfax Description
A superb climb which leads you on with a lazy lower groove and then smacks you with a savage finishing crack. Start below the open groove and stroll up this to the left-hand of three cracks which sprout from its end. Arrange plenty of gear then attack the crack with everything you've got. Traverse right and finish easily above. © Rockfax
FA. P.Whillance, D.Armstrong 02/Jan/1978.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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duncan | 16 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Can also finish direct at the same grade | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Can also finish direct at the same grade |
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Neil Ireson | 14 Aug, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: It's actually the middle of the three cracks and not the left-hand one; it's correct in the guide diagram. A better description might be, "Start below the open groove and follow this to a sloping ledge. Arrange some good gear then attack the steep crack above." | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: It's actually the middle of the three cracks and not the left-hand one; it's correct in the guide diagram. A better description might be, "Start below the open groove and follow this to a sloping ledge. Arrange some good gear then attack the steep crack above." |
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chris j | 25 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: For grit climbers, think of it as Chequers Crack on top of a 60 foot VS and you're just about there. The gear is solid and you can place as much as you like all the way up the crack, as long as you've strength to hold on... | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: For grit climbers, think of it as Chequers Crack on top of a 60 foot VS and you're just about there. The gear is solid and you can place as much as you like all the way up the crack, as long as you've strength to hold on... |
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Fiend | 8 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: A good line with some nice climbing, but rather strange in terms of difficulty - the crux is all about cramming enough gear into the otherwise easy top crack to avoid the potentially ankle-mashing ledge. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A good line with some nice climbing, but rather strange in terms of difficulty - the crux is all about cramming enough gear into the otherwise easy top crack to avoid the potentially ankle-mashing ledge. |
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drcorbasisgod | 9 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: The crack IS pretty desperate (for a hypothetical "standard" E1/2 leader anyway) but the gear below is not going anywhere. So you might get hurt, but you're not going to die and for me that made the difference between topping out and backing off. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The crack IS pretty desperate (for a hypothetical "standard" E1/2 leader anyway) but the gear below is not going anywhere. So you might get hurt, but you're not going to die and for me that made the difference between topping out and backing off. |
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Paz | 21 Feb, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I'm not a big fan of taking into account accidents too much (re. caption in St Govans Inn) but anyway: it's not a bad idea to more cautiously "stitch, then attack the crack with everything you've got". | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I'm not a big fan of taking into account accidents too much (re. caption in St Govans Inn) but anyway: it's not a bad idea to more cautiously "stitch, then attack the crack with everything you've got". |
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Grade: E2 5c ***
(Mewsford Point)