Restricted Access
Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack. The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care. B
Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:
Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014
John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m
Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine
D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay
April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to" D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)
Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac .
Rockfax Description
Although this route does have one independent section, most of the good climbing is on other routes with better lines. Starting just right of The Arrow, climb up steep juggy rock to a small ledge. Step up and make a hard fingery traverse rightwards to the arete. Pull around the corner into a crack (on the route Raw Recruits) which is followed for 4m. Step back left into an easy finishing groove on the left-hand side of the arete. The crack of Raw Recruits can be avoided at no change in grade. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, B.Wintringham, M.Wintringham 05/Apr/1980.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Martin Bagshaw | 30 Oct, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Upper section did not feel particularly solid. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Upper section did not feel particularly solid. |
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| Steve Crowe | 6 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: When I climbed it, I avoided the step right into Raw Recruits and thought it was possibly better that way, more independant anyway. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: When I climbed it, I avoided the step right into Raw Recruits and thought it was possibly better that way, more independant anyway. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head
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Cave Heart
Grade: E3 5b ***
(Mount Sion West)