Restricted Access
Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack. The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care. B
Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:
Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014
John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m
Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine
D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay
April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to" D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)
Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac .
Rockfax Description
The wall just to the right of the corner is a lot steeper than it looks. Start as for War Crime but step off the first pedestal onto the wall. Climb this to a huge hanging flake. Continue past another flake to the upper groove which leads to the top. © Rockfax
FA. G.Gibson 24/May/1986.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| John Alcock | 26 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Easyish for E4 if you keep going. It's more pleasant to miss out the last loose groove and finish up War Game. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Easyish for E4 if you keep going. It's more pleasant to miss out the last loose groove and finish up War Game. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head
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Ultra Marine
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Flimston and Perimeter Bays)