36m.

Rockfax Description
The arete left of the big groove of Tactician usually has a tempting thread dangling from its upper section. Start as for Tactician but break left along a crack to a junction with War Games. Move right around the arete and then climb a hard crack to a ledge. Finish up the arete above in a magnificent position. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Theo's Pembroke ticklist

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Billg 2 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Threads are getting old. Both would probably take 10mm rope.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Threads are getting old. Both would probably take 10mm rope.
John Alcock 26 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Wild. The thread wears easily over the winter and may need replacing regularly. There are nuts just below to back it up.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wild. The thread wears easily over the winter and may need replacing regularly. There are nuts just below to back it up.
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Billg 31 May Lead β
with Timm Oertel
with Timm Oertel
Ramon Marin 24 May 2nd rpt
Richard Kendrick 24 May Lead O/S Worth it for the top arête! So much exposure
Worth it for the top arête! So much exposure
Hidden 20 Apr Lead dnf
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 20 Apr Lead dnf Had a go and took a good whipper going up the initial hard crack. Lowered back to the ground (ledge...) and had another go, getting on the upper arete. Couldn't see where to go (no chalk) but saw some chalky holds within reach on the right - turned out this was some lovely VS jugs. I ended up trying to climb back on to the arete but with a choice between unchalked sharp crimps in a wild position and some nice holds I ended up with a half-arsed mix of the two.
with Anna G
Had a go and took a good whipper going up the initial hard crack. Lowered back to the ground (ledge...) and had another go, getting on the upper arete. Couldn't see where to go (no chalk) but saw some chalky holds within reach on the right - turned out this was some lovely VS jugs. I ended up trying to climb back on to the arete but with a choice between unchalked sharp crimps in a wild position and some nice holds I ended up with a half-arsed mix of the two.
with Anna G
debsb 21 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Glenda Huxter
with Glenda Huxter
Wendy 30 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with gazhbo
with gazhbo
brices 20 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S Such a good sequence at the top, clip the tat and quest on.
Such a good sequence at the top, clip the tat and quest on.
Hidden 30 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Adam24B 17 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Top bit's hard
with Kris2fa
Top bit's hard
with Kris2fa
Kris2fa 17 Aug, 2017 2nd dog
with Adam24B
with Adam24B
Hidden 12 Aug, 2017 Lead G/U
Hidden 24 Jul, 2017 Lead
Katekeltie 2 Jul, 2017 2nd dog
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 2 Jul, 2017 Lead G/U
JamesWilliams 29 May, 2017 2nd dog one fall only one move off the top, but after taking all the gear out so i'm pretty happy for a first smash at an E5
one fall only one move off the top, but after taking all the gear out so i'm pretty happy for a first smash at an E5
irish paul 29 May, 2017 Lead RP Boom, first E5 of the year. Actually a nice one to get on, safe enough, two sections of 'get the gear in and sprint to the next rest'.
Boom, first E5 of the year. Actually a nice one to get on, safe enough, two sections of 'get the gear in and sprint to the next rest'.
Alex Mason 27 May, 2017 Lead O/S Crimpy top arete. Sweet fun.
Crimpy top arete. Sweet fun.
Hidden 27 May, 2017 Lead dog
ferdia 17 Apr, 2017 2nd
with malx
with malx
malx 17 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Really good but a little escapable at the top
Really good but a little escapable at the top
Luke Brooks 16 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Went too far right at the top. Meh.
with KB83
Went too far right at the top. Meh.
with KB83
Hidden 16 Aug, 2016 2nd
pipof747 16 May, 2016 Lead O/S
D.Russell 10 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
Ramon Marin 10 Apr, 2016 2nd rpt The big fluffy tat is gone. There's still a thread there but higher up so you have to do a few moves of the crux to clip it
with Douglas Russell
The big fluffy tat is gone. There's still a thread there but higher up so you have to do a few moves of the crux to clip it
with Douglas Russell
Hidden 27 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
Ed morris 2 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Low in the grade, great position on the top arete.
Low in the grade, great position on the top arete.
James Marshall 25 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Great for a first e5 because most of the gear is placed from rests and it really isn't very run out at the top.
with ollie
Great for a first e5 because most of the gear is placed from rests and it really isn't very run out at the top.
with ollie
Hidden 25 Jul, 2015 Lead β
Duncan Campbell 24 May, 2015 2nd Wild top arête absolutely mega!
Wild top arête absolutely mega!
nathanlee 24 May, 2015 Lead O/S Wild top arête!
Wild top arête!
adam 24 18 Apr, 2015 2nd β Great climbing in a brilliant position
with Ross
Great climbing in a brilliant position
with Ross
quiffhanger 18 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S A little contrived but worth it for the awesome airy finish - some hard & runout moves but super safe fallout zone. Threads were looking a little crusty, but you can get bomber gear just below them. Great.
with adam 24
A little contrived but worth it for the awesome airy finish - some hard & runout moves but super safe fallout zone. Threads were looking a little crusty, but you can get bomber gear just below them. Great.
with adam 24
Adam Booth 6 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S
Ed Booth 6 Apr, 2015 Lead dog Haven't quite got my trad multi E5's in a day arms back yet. Took the ride off the top arete.
Haven't quite got my trad multi E5's in a day arms back yet. Took the ride off the top arete.
Hidden ?Apr, 2015 2nd dog
Justin T ?Apr, 2015 Lead dog
with Nick B
with Nick B
Sarah Black 22 Mar, 2015 TR O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2015 -
Hidden 26 Sep, 2014 Solo
Ramon Marin 14 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S A bit of a clip up really, but really good route, worth 2 stars. I backed the tats with a few bomber wires and cams on the break below and run it out to the top. Techy headwall but the difficulties are soon over. Low in the grade
with ciaran tracey
A bit of a clip up really, but really good route, worth 2 stars. I backed the tats with a few bomber wires and cams on the break below and run it out to the top. Techy headwall but the difficulties are soon over. Low in the grade
with ciaran tracey
dan gibson 30 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
with Misha
with Misha
Misha 30 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
soph 23 Aug, 2014 Lead rpt
with Blair Fyffe
with Blair Fyffe
dannyboy83 21 Jun, 2014 Lead β Just made sure the threads were good
with beneole
Just made sure the threads were good
with beneole
bigie bob 19 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
morganator 3 May, 2013 Lead Fell off on the crux onto dodgy looking thread, backed up with a good wire. Got it second go- wild route, pumpy low down as well as a very pumpy crux
with Stan Halstead
Fell off on the crux onto dodgy looking thread, backed up with a good wire. Got it second go- wild route, pumpy low down as well as a very pumpy crux
with Stan Halstead
LRob 20 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
willoates 31 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S Good climbing up to the arete, then the arete is the best position I climbed all trip.
with soph
Good climbing up to the arete, then the arete is the best position I climbed all trip.
with soph
soph 31 Mar, 2013 2nd O/S
jacobjacob 30 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S Great position. Good route.
Great position. Good route.
JulesV 22 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S Worth at least two stars!
Worth at least two stars!
valecoastclimber 7 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
john nightingale 11 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
with Fran S8
with Fran S8
redjerry ?Aug, 2011 TR O/S bouldery upper arete
bouldery upper arete
Hidden 4 May, 2008 Lead O/S
Tony Little 6 Apr, 2007 2nd
with Ed Brown
with Ed Brown
Ricky Rocks ??, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2006 -
Kev Little ??, 2006 Lead O/S
daveayton ??, 2005 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 2nd β
with Steve Adams
with Steve Adams
Steve Crowe 12 Apr, 2004 Lead O/S
with karin
with karin
Hidden 5 Jun, 2002 2nd O/S
sadams 26 Aug, 2000 Lead O/S
with Tom Briggs
with Tom Briggs
DavidBarraclough ?Aug, 2000 Lead RP
Hidden 26 Aug, 1989 Lead
8 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 16
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set