UKC

Restricted Access

Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack.  The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care.  The restriction on the D-Day area has been lifted for the 2023 season as of 3rd July.

Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:

Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014

John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m

Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine

D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay 

April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to"  D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)    RESTRICTION LIFTED JULY 3rd 2023 

Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac . 

 

 

 

 

36m.

Rockfax Description
A hard eliminate to the right of Deranged on which a long reach is essential. Move right from the base of the groove on Deranged and gain a crack by a hard move. Continue to a rest then make another hard move up a slim groove above to rejoin Deranged. Step right and finish up a steep wall. © Rockfax

FA. G.Gibson, R.Turner 24/May/1986.

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High E6
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Route of Interest
The One-Eyed Man

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)

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