450m, 12 pitches.
Bockmattli Grosser Turm. Bolted but trad gear necessary too. Additional 3 pitches of exposed/grassy scrambling to reach the start. From the summit 2-3 hours of abseils and easy climbing (3b) to reach the point of walking off.
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JB184 | 22 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Access over steep grass, although after the first 20m you're "protected" by heavy vegetation below you. First pitch often wet, give it a good 3-4 days to dry out. Afterwards follow the bolts through some lovely dihedrals and chimneys. Cams (1-3) and hexes make the ascent more amenable if you're not stoked for 6-7 metre run outs on 5c+ climbing. The 6a traverse is light, and can almost be aid climbed on the bolts. Afterwards the exit pitch onto the west shoulder is stunning, with the entire wall falling away beneath you. Easy 3rd grade to the summit cross. The traverse along the south ridge to the path takes a first-timer 2 hours unless you'vbe got a very good nose for alpine ridge climbing. All fairly easy and enjoyable providing there's no thunderstorm rolling in. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Access over steep grass, although after the first 20m you're "protected" by heavy vegetation below you. First pitch often wet, give it a good 3-4 days to dry out. Afterwards follow the bolts through some lovely dihedrals and chimneys. Cams (1-3) and hexes make the ascent more amenable if you're not stoked for 6-7 metre run outs on 5c+ climbing. The 6a traverse is light, and can almost be aid climbed on the bolts. Afterwards the exit pitch onto the west shoulder is stunning, with the entire wall falling away beneath you. Easy 3rd grade to the summit cross. The traverse along the south ridge to the path takes a first-timer 2 hours unless you'vbe got a very good nose for alpine ridge climbing. All fairly easy and enjoyable providing there's no thunderstorm rolling in. |
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