Rockfax Description
A popular route which is another one on the Pembroke 'tick-n-go' list. Start beneath the narrow projecting block. Climb up this and pull over onto the wall above. Follow a grooveline up and rightwards then move up to a crack. Climb this, with some hard moves past a bulge, to the top break. Step left, pull over the small roof at a wide crack and climb the easy wall above to the top. © Rockfax

FA. R Swinden, R Haszko 27/Apr/1980

Ticklists: Ultimate E1 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke.

PaulTanton 28/Aug 2nd rpt
with Kevin Stephens
williap 27/Aug Lead O/S

found it tricky on the middle crack section...until I realised the error of my technical ways!

TGHB 26/Aug 2nd dog

Great lead from Wendy, unfortunately I pumped out just before the friendlier than it looks roof. The beginning is relatively straightforward if you're lanky like I am, but a bit tricky if you're short

Hidden 26/Aug Lead O/S
Wendy Watthews 26/Aug Lead O/S

Great route hard steep start then just gets easier as you go up culminating in a jug haul. Lovely finger jams in the middle.

aiyer 26/Aug 2nd
with JakeB.
Hidden 20/Aug 2nd
Dizz 19/Aug 2nd O/S
with leon
Lenny 19/Aug Lead β
with Liz
catrin289 13/Aug 2nd O/S
with Max Nlmc
bryan61 06/Aug 2nd O/S
with sally
Hidden 06/Aug Lead
cem 23/Jul 2nd rpt
with Paul Clarkson
mr mills 14/Jul Lead O/S
with dave lyon
Dave Lyon 14/Jul -
with Mills
John Bunney 30/May 2nd O/S

Brill route, so sharp!

shed_hed 29/May Lead O/S

Cracking route to finish the trip on! A little committing and intimidating at the start but then fantastic climbing above.

JamesWilliams 28/May Lead O/S

stiff pull over the initial roof. cracks a little awkward

with Rose
Rory Shaw 20/May 2nd rpt
with Jo Boyd
pie_eater_pete 06/May 2nd O/S
with bwestwood
bwestwood 06/May Lead
Hidden 23/Apr 2nd
benw681 19/Apr Lead dnf

so tired (cos of days on and sly ravers at trefallen camping) and shut down totally on this. lowered off a couple of nuts, if you come across them and fancy doing me a favour pls drop me a line!

with Yuki
PaulTanton 18/Apr 2nd rpt
with Francis Butler
Stefan_Morris 17/Apr 2nd O/S
with Dickon Morris
mountain.martin 07/Apr Lead O/S

A quick up and down to place a good nut then do the crux to great steady climbing with another short hard section at the vertical crack. Good gear but that and the mooves not as obvious as some.

with Edmund
Hidden ??/2017 -
gingernick 13/Nov/16 Lead O/S

Great climbing. A bit tuff.

with Darrell
dmorgan27 13/Nov/16 2nd
The old James turnbull 22/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with aiden
Lessworkmoreclimbing 31/Aug/16 2nd
with Kev
markalmack 27/Aug/16 2nd O/S
WB 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Kris2fa 16/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Thoroughly enjoyed! Jugs through the roof provide an excellent end to the route

Adam24B 16/Aug/16 2nd
M_Robinson 16/Aug/16 2nd O/S
khalidq 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Max Adamson
Stanners 09/Aug/16 Lead O/S

guess who's back, back again.. Its been too long Pembroke! (cheeky start for E1!)

with Giles
Hidden 08/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Alison Cairns 08/Aug/16 Lead rpt

Hadn't done this for years - glorious route!

Emily 07/Aug/16 2nd O/S

Nice climb, some hard stuff and small holds around the crack but I managed to stay on and was rewarded by a fun swing over some big jugs near the top.

with Nick
Nick Russell 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Abbed in at mid tide, which would have been ok had the sea not been so rough! Got a good soaking at the base of the route, then waited it out on the far left (highest) end of the platform. Good route, sustained technical climbing, with a fun little roof at the top.

with Emily
Hidden 06/Aug/16 2nd β
Hidden 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 02/Jul/16 2nd
with Kate
Hidden 02/Jul/16 Lead
Mark Stevenson 05/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with Misha
Misha 05/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Mark S
Duncan Campbell 30/May/16 2nd

At the top of the grade for E1. Great climbing and good protection.

Hidden 30/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/16 Lead O/S
brices 29/May/16 2nd O/S
with Llinos
ASchwirtz 28/May/16 Lead O/S
with Russ
Russtygibbons 28/May/16 Lead dog

Took a nice fall from the top of the crack after getting pumped. Not the warm up I ws hoping for but a good climb

with Ant
Mike Todd 25/Mar/16 2nd rpt
with Neil Hillis
Rob Rocket 29/Aug/15 2nd
Scooter Young 29/Aug/15 Lead
Mark Kemball 18/Aug/15 Lead

What a superb route!

The Grist 14/Aug/15 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 14/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Ed Babs 12/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with AlexD
AlexD 12/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Had to pull pretty damn hard on this one! Bit of a pumpy warmup!

with Ed
HimTiggins 03/Aug/15 2nd
with Jon
cem 01/Aug/15 2nd
with Deniz Sumengen
ian d f 30/May/15 Lead O/S
with Mark
markfromstoke 30/May/15 2nd
with Ian
cdpuk 03/May/15 Lead O/S

Pumpy start if you hang around for too long, and hard middle section. Roof intimidating from below, but a joy to climb. Using Kai's rack.

with Peter Neden, Kai Green
alastairbegley 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Fantastic route!

Slick 19/Apr/15 2nd
Mike Todd 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 03/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Phil Baxter
Ollie B 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with B.Brewer
RyanOsborne 14/Sep/14 2nd

Great lead from Matt, I would have found this harrowing on the lead!

Matt77 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S

I found this tough and had to have a bit of a word with myself at the bottom of the crack after the groove. This climb has a bit of everything; a technical crack climb sandwiched between two powerful sections. Brilliant.

gg4419 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S
nickstephens 05/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/14 Lead
Lessworkmoreclimbing 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Great varied route with typical Pembroke steep start, which woke me up. Luckily there's a good rest after.

with Kev
Pippa 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Jon
mynyddresident 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S

real fun

with KP
Owen W-G 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Hard for e1, loads of gear but a bit strenny to protect start, got pumped on crux and struggled to recover. Top roof is a cinch.

with Sean
Bob ??/2014 -
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
pigeonslipper 30/Aug/13 Lead O/S
metal arms 30/Aug/13 2nd
John Nuttall 30/Aug/13 2nd
with Jon
Hidden 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
mikephilrob 26/Aug/13 2nd
Tom Livingstone 14/Aug/13 2nd β
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
david morse 06/May/13 Lead β
with Andy Lole, chris todd
Hidden 06/May/13 2nd rpt
Dan Lane 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Stonking route, pretty hard though!

David Kay 31/Mar/13 2nd
jcw ??/2013 -
cymjt ??/2013 -
Hidden 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/12 2nd O/S
drysori 20/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden 20/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Dave Foster 16/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Robin, Si 2
Hidden 16/Aug/12 2nd O/S
robin_hackney 16/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Was going to go up the adjacent E2, but after a week of climbing, my tired arms told me the traverse left was too bold. Nice little route after the steep start.

JBO 09/Aug/12 2nd O/S
JulesV 21/Jul/12 2nd
Shauna 20/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Jules
Hidden 07/May/12 2nd
al99 25/Feb/12 2nd O/S
with Luke Hodson
lukehodson 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 2nd O/S
Dave Rumney 28/Aug/11 -
Hidden 28/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/11 2nd O/S
climbingpixie 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant route and not too tricky once past the first stiff pull.

with Andy
Hidden 23/Aug/11 Lead O/S
catblack 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S

An amazing route - steep start (suprise suprise for pembroke)then really nice technical crux - loads better than the arrow. Felt tougher than other e1's in pembroke

Andrew Barker 20/Aug/11 2nd

A classic.

Greg Cunningham ?/Aug/11 2nd
with paul christie
chris j 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Intricate climbing, committing start.

with Doug
Jessie Rushbrooke 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with GF
Hidden ??/2011 2nd O/S
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
irish paul 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Sarah Joyce
Ed morris 01/Sep/10 Lead O/S

very nice. 16 bits of gear.

with Martin
Rob Pitt 28/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 28/Aug/10 2nd β
Dave Reeve 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S
tigertim 11/Aug/10 2nd
Sam W 10/Oct/09 Lead

Had a look at Ultravox as well, looked a bit scary

with Carl Reilly
RobRock84 23/Sep/09 Lead O/S

great route,great exposed climbing with a few tecnical moves

with Chris price
Hidden 06/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/09 2nd β
belay bunny turned bad 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with loundsy
Hidden 28/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/08 Lead O/S
greenclimb 17/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Sarah
chris sm 02/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Easy for E1.

with Pippa Froggatt
LC ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Julian Wedd ??/2008 Lead
with A. Howarth
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/06 Lead O/S
david morse ?/Apr/06 2nd
with chris todd
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
tom.e ?/Aug/05 2nd O/S
with Charlie Everett
Pythonist ??/2005 2nd O/S
Mark Davies PK ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Jack G
Hidden 30/Aug/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/02 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2002 -
Hidden ??/2001 Lead O/S
Martin Bennett 25/Aug/00 -
with MT
Hidden 04/Aug/00 Lead O/S
Tim Sparrow ??/2000 -
Hidden 12/Aug/99 -
Andy Edgar ??/1999 -
Hidden ??/1999 Lead
Hidden ??/1998 -
NeilGriffiths 17/Aug/97 -
with Neil Nussey
NeilGriffiths 17/Aug/97 -
with Neil Nussey
mikej 17/Aug/96 Lead
with Nick Salmon
Steve Clegg 10/Oct/95 Lead
with Mrs C
Hidden 09/Sep/95 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/95 Lead O/S
craig h ??/1994 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby ?/Apr/92 Lead
with Dave Taylor
whispering nic 04/Aug/91 Lead
with Graham Iles
Roget 31/Mar/91 2nd O/S
with colin
Bruce Kerr 18/Apr/90 2nd
michael burrows 13/Apr/90 2nd
with steve williams
Paul Clarke ??/1990 -
with LUMC
Hidden 24/Jun/89 2nd
ukb & bmc shark 02/Apr/89 Solo
Nigel Coe ??/1989 2nd
with Mike Scott, Scott Titt, Tim Dunsby
Hidden ??/1989 Lead
Mike Owen 27/Aug/88 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Steve Crowe 04/Apr/88 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Feb/88 2nd O/S
steve taylor ?/Aug/87 2nd
with stumpy
Will Webb ?/Jun/87 Lead
with Mark Cole
keefe 22/Feb/86 -
Steve Long ??/1986 Lead
ukb & bmc shark ?/Nov/85 2nd
with Richard O Mara
Mark Kemball 22/Aug/85 2nd
with Dave McCann
Hidden 19/Jul/85 Lead
neilh 06/Jul/85 Lead O/S
with dave croker
Derek Furze ??/1985 2nd
with Rick
Derek Furze ??/1985 2nd
with Rick
Dave Musgrove 23/Apr/84 Lead O/S
with Kenny Winkworth
Mark Kemball 01/Sep/83 Solo
Nigel Bond 29/Aug/83 Lead
with Charlie Leverton
Mike Owen 02/May/83 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Mark Kemball 27/Apr/83 2nd
with Dave Kenyon
Hidden 01/Apr/83 -
Mark Kemball 31/Mar/83 2nd
with Mark Roberts
Steve Lewis 11/Sep/82 Lead O/S
with Lyndsey
Mark Kemball 11/Apr/82 Lead
with Chris Calow
babymoac ??/1982 2nd
with Martin Wilson
Hidden 08/Jun/81 Lead O/S
jon 10/May/81 Lead
with charlie
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Low E1
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Style of ascent
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