UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

In addition to the agreed restrictions noted below, Peregrines can also nest here and occasionally an agreed restriction is also in place for the routes ‘Sound of the Suburbs’ to ‘Endangered Species’ inclusive. - see signs by the abseil stakes. 

Seasonal Restriction  from 'Meatloaf' to 'Breaking the Habit' inclusive - this is the buttress to the right (east) of 'The Hole' and below the red pot at the cliff top.

 

 

 

27m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the wall left of the brown streak , trending left to the break - thin on gear! Move right then climb up and leftwards before climbing direct to the ledge. Finish anyway you can above - loose. © Rockfax

FA. G.Gibson 02/Jul/1985.

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User Date Notes
Ed morris 26 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Fixed gear has rotted. There is no sound gear moving up to the break. Still E6 6b. Safe and hard crux above. Lower off a preplaced abb rope from the ledge to avoid the rubble Jenga above.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fixed gear has rotted. There is no sound gear moving up to the break. Still E6 6b. Safe and hard crux above. Lower off a preplaced abb rope from the ledge to avoid the rubble Jenga above.

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Route of Interest
The Anti Matterhorn

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)

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