30m.

Rockfax Description
One of Pembroke's most famous routes follows the shiny arete. There is a bit of polish at the start, but not higher up where it matters. Make a steep pull up to the break, then swing left and move up to place some wires (possibly the crux). Climb the fingery wall above to reach better holds. Trend rightwards under some bulges then move up onto a large ledge. Climb the corner above and exit a little further right than is obvious. © Rockfax

FA. N.Colton 05/Apr/1980

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Very good routes in the UK, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 17/Apr Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 16/Apr Lead rpt

Lovely

with Kate Keltie
beni 15/Apr Lead O/S

Cheated

with Wojtek
bede.west 15/Apr Lead dnf

Wet but v. good. Will be back for ground up tick...

etrillaud 14/Apr 2nd
Sarah Black 09/Apr Lead O/S

Absolutely fantastic! The boulder at the bottom has moved so stepped off it directly onto the arete and tricky crux section, fiddled in some superlights and smiled up the next 30 metres.

JenShelley 23/Oct/16 2nd rpt
FlavioL1989 23/Oct/16 Lead O/S
andyinglis 09/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Murdoch Jamieson
Dangerous Dave 08/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Stepped off the boulder as to not seems silly. Good route

Mike Todd 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Finally plucked up the courage to climb this. Start wasn't as bad as I was expecting. The gear is small but decent enough so you just have to be confident. After the thread the route changes character completely - becomes steep and juggy with a (thankfully) great rest ledge before the finishing moves. Awesome route and a lovely spot to belay and catch some evening sunshine.

with Ian Wyatt
Mike W 27/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Really good - technical and serious first half followed by a steep second half with pushy moves. Did it to escape after mctague had taken a 7m ground fall on to my head.

with Mike Cheque, robertmctague
Chriswallis2 24/Aug/16 Lead G/U

Foot popped and cam blew near the start. Wires kept me off the boulder (just).

with Mike W
MichaelGallimore 16/Aug/16 2nd
JenShelley 16/Aug/16 Lead
with Mike
duncana 13/Aug/16 2nd dnf

Pippa started up, did bouldery start, got some gear low on arÍte but after three good tries we were defeated

with Pippa Archer
Adam24B 11/Aug/16 Lead O/S

I was concerned about the fall onto the boulder when the wire placement was out of range, would have been great to try it before the storms, fantastic after the stress

Kris2fa 11/Aug/16 2nd dog
with Adam24B
pearson9596 09/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Mel
Hidden 09/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Chris Redding 06/Aug/16 2nd O/S

Had to campus to the starting 'jug'. First foothold is crazy high. Sustained after that and very enjoyable.

Jack93 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S

The huge boulder underneath the start made this a bit more scary than enjoyable as I didn't really feel like I wasn't going to hit it untill I was very high!

with Chris WT, Chris Redding
eel ?/Aug/16 Lead O/S
ian d f 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S

A nice route, shame about the boulder though.

onlyfoddington 31/Jul/16 2nd

Perhaps some tension initially, sustained interest all the way. Confused where the huge boulder has come from, it detracts from the route a little, and a fall on lead may be somewhat less pleasant.

with Ian
john lynch 25/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Mega classic, one of my favorite routes at pembroke. Such varied and classy climbing from bottom to top. A beaut.

with Lewis Andrew
ferdia 29/May/16 Lead O/S

without using the boulder

with Burton
NDD 28/May/16 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 08/May/16 Lead
tobydunford 30/Apr/16 Lead G/U
with Oli
Stefan_Morris 21/Apr/16 Lead β

small bit of gear beta

Twid Turner ??/2016 -
burto 25/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with bruce
Rollo 06/Sep/15 2nd dog

Almost clean...

Andrew Wilson 01/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Matt Nuttall
Richard Kendrick 29/Aug/15 Lead dog
with Chris L
jon_gill1 29/Aug/15 Lead dog

rested after getting pumped and then finished off,should have taken the fall or maybe i could have cleaned it.....

with jim braithwaite
mattnuttall 28/Aug/15 Lead G/U

climbed without block but nervous about gear and fall onto said block reversed several times back to sanctuary of block. Eventually committed and pushed on; and it keeps coming too. Tad hard for a first route of the trip!

benkelsey 15/Aug/15 Lead dnf

The gear was super fiddly and the new house sized block just got in the way. Too hot and too much faff so sacked it.

with Shaun Humphreys
andy_pemberton 19/Jul/15 Lead
with Steve Gibson
red_rhodesha 17/May/15 2nd
ollie_e 17/May/15 Lead G/U

Start is scary and definitely dangerous with the boulder where it is - not the warm up I was expecting! Means you need to faff around placing gear, which is very fiddly. Got a good piece and then immediately tested it as my foot slipped, which actually bothered me quite a lot...great climbing though, but difficult gear placement.

Llinos C 16/May/15 Lead β

An amazing route, feels delicate and bold though

with Simon Brice
brices 16/May/15 2nd rpt
with Edd, Llinos
admackie 11/May/15 Lead dog

team tick andy lead to about 7m, i lead through to the thread till it all became to much for me, andy finished. Outstanding quality

with andy
Andy Peak 1 11/May/15 Lead

Team assent:-)

brices 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Had a bit of a moment on this, really wasn't the warmup i expected, great route though

with Llinos
Hidden 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S
NuclearNev ??/2015 -
Hidden 27/Sep/14 -
nathanlee 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Neil Mawson
drysori 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S

A boulder has moved under the start, making it easier as you can step off for a rest before the tricky moves to get established on the wall.

spidermonkey09 12/Sep/14 Lead dnf

Where has the block come from?! Didn't fancy the potential ankle breaking fall so bailed, but looks amazing.

simon kimber 06/Sep/14 2nd
with Rob Andrews
Matt Cooke 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Sam Taylor
Apharri 21/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Dave Wharton
owain86 30/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Will
wi11 30/Jul/14 2nd β

Used the boulder, would be pretty contrived not to? Still a good route

Rachel Slater 05/May/14 Lead O/S

Without using the boulder.

Justin T 05/May/14 2nd
with Rachel
Tom Livingstone 23/Apr/14 Lead O/S
fennerz 21/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Angus Kille
The Grist 21/Apr/14 Lead dnf

Epic fail. Fell from 3 metres up trying to place a wire, getting tired then trying to retreat. Fell backwards and hit my head on the boulder pushed up against the route. Lucky to have escaped more serious injury.

dswansonlow 21/Apr/14 2nd rpt

The new block at the start totally changes the start of the route. Not impressed....

Misha 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S
tim newton 21/Apr/14 2nd O/S

The huge boulder has moved in the winter storms and now rests against the cliff base, a real shame as you can either totally miss the start by walking up the boulder, or do the start and then just step on to the boulder, or ignore the boulder which we did, but it makes it an eliminate. Also if you fluff the polished moves after the start (around and above the wires) you'll probably hit the boulder, so the route is now more dangerous. There was in fact an accident the day we did it where a leader fell and hit the boulder. The route improves a lot towards the top (some great moves) but unfortunately not as good as it used to be.

shed_hed 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Great climbing and really enjoyed it once I got into it - wasn't expecting the end moves! Was nervous having seen the injury from someone who had come off earlier that day, which didn't help at the start! Think the presence of the boulder detracts from the climb a little but just ignored it - despite it being off putting and more than a little tempting to use!

anguskille 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Absolutely loved it, brilliant finish

Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead dnf
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Julian Cooper 14/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Stuart Knott
phil64 ?/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with tom livingstone
HAJ Francis ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Ollie B 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Dunc gave some beta.

with T.Ripley
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 30/Mar/14 2nd
Duncan Campbell 30/Mar/14 Lead G/U

Ground-up. Stupidly fell at the overlap before the break as I reached too high into greasy undercut and couldn't hold it. Lowered off, pulled ropes and went to the top. Went too direct at the top and nearly fluffed it again - too much alcohol swimming round my body? Block has moved at the bottom making the start redundant - though had climbed that bit in '10 before backing off.

with Stag Do, Robbie
ejected ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
JBO 27/Aug/13 Lead O/S

A really bad choice of warm-up! Bit disappointed by this really, found the start too polished to be enjoyable. Still good climbing, just not worth all the hype.

Ed morris 18/Aug/13 Lead β

Exceptional route. Found lots of reasonable/good wires going up to the break. Romany is a grade harder.

with Adam Bevan
Hidden 13/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/13 Lead β
Alice Thompson 03/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/13 Lead O/S
dan gibson 03/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with alice thompson, michael porter
Keendan 16/Jun/13 2nd rpt

Trainers. A bit over-confident. The absolute-limit of my trainer seconding. The flash pump stayed with me all day...

with Remus
Hidden 15/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Keendan 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Very aesthetic route. Fun steep bit at the top.

with Remus
Dibdawg 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Tom Vassen
piken 31/May/13 Lead O/S
with Andy
Pippa 04/May/13 Lead O/S
mountain_jay 04/May/13 2nd
quiffhanger 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Very nice. Hard to protect but can be made safe with a smattering of small gear. Thin but steady ground so you should have time to place it.

with Kate
Dean Russell 04/Apr/13 Lead O/S
soph 30/Mar/13 2nd
jcw ??/2013 -
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
irish paul ??/2013 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 17/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Felt quite pumpy. Probably should have lead a warm up first.

with AlexD
AlexD 17/Sep/12 2nd
with Ed
gregoritos 10/Sep/12 Lead O/S
redjerry ?/Sep/12 TR O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Dave Foster 14/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Si 2
dswansonlow 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
jacobjlloyd 11/Aug/12 2nd rpt
with Dougie
Hidden ?/May/12 Lead β
Justin T 08/Apr/12 Lead β

Previously backed off, still found this hard and a bit sketchy, gear in flared polished cracks is not inspiring.

with Cherry
Hidden 08/Apr/12 2nd
Hidden 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S
bigie bob 06/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Ed Booth 05/Apr/12 2nd rpt
Adam Booth 05/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/12 Lead dnf
Hidden ??/2012 -
Speeddemonsi 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S
steve_yo 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with smacks
thomasadixon 29/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Mike
jacobjlloyd 05/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Gear seemed fine to me, though it took a while to fiddle in. Might feel sketchy without the right piece. The meat of it was over quickly, but from midway it was easy enough that I got to hang about and watch Andy on Yellow Pearls, and even take a few snaps!

Luke Brooks 29/Jun/11 2nd
with Glyn Hudson, Barni
Glyn 29/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Luke, Barni
barni 28/Jun/11 2nd rpt
with luke, Glyn
colesy 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Hard at E3, the wire placed after the break did not inspire!

Richard Hall 05/Jun/11 Lead β

Up and down from the scary bit a couple of times, then Gaz finished it and i did it on his gear.

with Gaz
dan gibson 02/Jun/11 2nd rpt
with richard lade
centurion05 30/Apr/11 Lead dog
Hidden 30/Apr/11 2nd
Luke Brooks 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with John Orr
markalmack 08/Mar/11 Lead O/S

I thought the death potential was a bit high for an E3! not really any hard moves, but fucking scary up to the horizontal break where you can finally get some gear in. i was shitting bricks!

with james marjot
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
mwatson ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Mr Sparkle 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
liamoloughlin 30/Aug/10 Lead dog
Hidden 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
NeilGriffiths 28/Aug/10 2nd
with Dave Garry, Simon Frost
drcorbasisgod 28/Aug/10 Lead rpt
frost 28/Aug/10 Lead dog

completely unnecessary rest, should have just committed to the move as it was easy once i did.

with N Griffiths, D Garry
Mike Goldthorp 21/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Impressive rock and line, but awkward climbing on slippy rock (maybe bad conditions) and a kinda necky bottom 3rd - didnt feel top 50, but still 3*

Justin T 07/Aug/10 Lead dnf

Abject gibbering failure, what was left of my lead ability this weekend evaporated on contact with the pool of damp salt deposit in the initial break to be replaced by fear and pump on discovering the true nature of the 'obvious' wire pockets above. Gutted.

with Cherry
Phill Mitch 16/Jul/10 Lead O/S

got pumped trying wrong nut at 6 meters,so came down,started again and got it right.brilliant.

with mick
Audrey Seguy 20/Jun/10 Lead β

Crucial second bit of gear is no longer a number 6 wire but a yellow TCU!

Hidden 22/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/10 Lead O/S
Ben1983 03/May/10 Lead O/S
tommytuffa 01/May/10 Lead

got up above break, hung on crap cam, came back down, then went for it properly. Right at my limit, loved it, pornstar climbing at the top.

with james
barni 20/Apr/10 Lead O/S
mattyork2 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
mux ??/2010 -
with Simon Frost , Neil Griffiths
jeffmcd56 ??/2010 Lead O/S
with Rob
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Lead β
Rob Pitt 05/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Owen put first few bits of gear in.

with Owen Davies
feilx 01/Aug/09 Lead rpt
with Heather
Hidden 28/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Dave Bond 28/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Shauna 24/May/09 2nd dog
with Jules
Hidden 23/May/09 Lead dnf
Hidden 03/May/09 Lead O/S
feilx 19/Apr/09 2nd rpt
with Andy Mosienko
Brown 11/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with John
Hidden 01/Apr/09 2nd
Ed Booth 25/Aug/08 Lead O/S
morganator 25/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with James Hall and Neil McAdie
ASchwirtz 24/Aug/08 Lead O/S
datoon 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with K
gforce 03/Aug/08 Lead
with Jason
feilx 12/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with Andy L
Richard Horn 12/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Chad123 17/May/08 AltLd dog

Awesome climbing but got ridiculously pumped trying to fiddle too many wires in and lobbed just before the break...doh...very varied climbing...

with Emily
ksjs 06/May/08 Lead O/S

my word! pure pembroke class all the way. very very good and what a beautiful wall.

spacey 05/May/08 2nd O/S
with Clive
dannyboy83 10/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Ben Harper 10/Feb/08 2nd dog
bfreeman 09/Feb/08 2nd
with Jon Freeman
jfreeman 09/Feb/08 Lead β
with Ben Freeman
nickcanute ??/2008 Lead O/S
Julian Wedd ??/2008 2nd
with A. Howarth
Hidden 06/Sep/07 2nd dnf
Alex Mason 05/May/07 Lead O/S

stiff little E3, goey once you leave the ground until the ledge, with only poor rests after the horizontal break. excellent.

janegallwey ??/2007 2nd
haydng ??/2007 2nd O/S
with Rob
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden 26/Aug/06 2nd
Mark Riley 12/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Tom Pascall
Hidden 05/Jun/06 2nd O/S
PaulTanton 01/May/06 Lead O/S

Done it before in the 80's

with Dave Taylor
Hidden 14/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Pythonist ?/Apr/06 2nd O/S
nathanmanc ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Chris Todd
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Boy ??/2006 -
Ally Smith 30/Jul/05 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 07/Jun/05 2nd O/S
Dan Savory 29/May/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/05 2nd dog
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Gus 29/May/04 Lead O/S

1st route in pembroke. awesome!

Smith42 ??/2004 2nd
fyfee8a ??/2004 -
Hidden 29/Aug/03 Lead O/S
spidey 25/Aug/03 Lead
Hidden 07/Aug/03 Lead O/S
Adam Lincoln ??/2002 Lead
Si Clapham ??/2002 Lead

Getting polished at the start

with Big Ade
shoulders 27/Aug/01 Lead
with mart, andy sharp, dai
Hidden 08/Jul/01 Lead rpt
Billg ??/2001 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/00 2nd
Hidden ??/2000 -
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Tim M ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
ellis ?/Sep/99 2nd O/S
Steve Crowe 03/May/99 Lead
with KM
Rich Kirby 04/Apr/99 Lead
with Chris Read
WB ??/1999 Lead O/S
with Guy
GuyM ??/1999 -
Hidden 22/May/98 Lead O/S
Steve Long ??/1998 Lead
Rich Kirby ?/Jun/97 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/97 Lead
Hidden ?/May/97 Lead O/S
John Southworth ?/Apr/97 Lead O/S
sadams 28/Mar/97 Lead
with John Boyle
The Jazz Butcher ??/1997 Lead O/S
duncan 06/Apr/96 2nd
with Dan Donovan
phardman 07/Sep/95 Lead
with Jon Bibby
Hidden ?/Aug/95 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1995 2nd
neilh 28/Aug/94 Lead O/S
with sara hyde
Dave Musgrove Jnr 11/Apr/93 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 11/Apr/93 2nd

David led.

with Pete Finklaire, David
innes ?/Aug/92 Lead O/S

hot and sunny. Got gripped badly on this.

with Chris
whispering nic ?/Jun/92 Lead O/S
Cowflinger 09/Apr/92 Lead O/S
Roget 04/Sep/91 Lead O/S
with jon
jfletcher 16/Jun/91 Lead O/S

Led as the sun went down. My second couldn't get up it, couldn't prussick and was benighted. I abseiled down for moral support and we had to wait until the tide had dropped for a traverse across to St Govan's Head!

with Tom Julier
steve taylor ?/Aug/90 Lead
with Jim Waddington
Eduardo Martinez 26/May/90 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 13/Apr/90 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke ??/1990 -
with Paul Greenland
Hidden 02/Jun/89 -
Hidden ?/May/89 Lead
Hidden 29/Apr/89 AltLd
Bruce Kerr 26/Mar/89 Lead
DDDD ??/1989 Lead O/S

great E3

craig h 03/Nov/88 Lead O/S
with Luke Steer
Hidden 10/Sep/88 Lead
wynaptomos ?/Jul/88 Lead O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 06/Apr/88 Lead
with Phil Baker
Mike Owen 13/Aug/87 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 24/Jul/87 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/87 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 20/Apr/87 Lead O/S
Bullybones ??/1987 Lead
andy gittins ??/1987 -
Greg Cunningham ?/Jun/86 Lead

before the polish!

with terry ralphs
keefe 19/Feb/86 -
Hidden ??/1986 Lead O/S
ukb & bmc shark 14/Apr/85 Lead
with Spud & Nick
Hidden ??/1985 AltLd
Mark Kemball 02/May/84 2nd
nicmac 02/May/84 Lead
Dave Musgrove 24/Apr/84 2nd
with Pete Finklaire
Steve Lewis 10/Apr/84 Lead O/S
with Clive Curle
Gary Gibson ?/Aug/83 Lead
with Phil Gibson
Mike Owen 08/Apr/83 Lead O/S
with Phil Ralph
Hidden 08/Apr/83 Lead
Mark Kemball 07/Sep/82 Lead
with Paul Clark, Steve Finch
Steve Bell ?/Apr/82 Lead O/S
with Martin Corbett
Hidden 08/Jun/81 Lead O/S
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 62
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 62
Votes cast 52
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set