30m.

Rockfax Description
A strenuous and well-protected crack climb to the break, with a technical and slightly bold direct finish for dessert. Start below a groove and prominent crack, in the centre of the wall. Climb the groove to a flake on the left. Make a hard move into the crack above which gives sustained climbing to the big break. Pull over onto the upper wall, place some wires, and climb it to the top via some tricky and committing moves. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn 30.4.80 (Direct) G.Gibson 30/Apr/1980

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Seaside (Oh I Do Like To Be Beside), Theo's Pembroke ticklist, Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Ged Desforges 8 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Amazing climb. Pumpy to the break and a good shakeout. Top wall felt pretty committing and unobvious, probably mainly due to lack of chalk? Seems like most people still traverse off to the Boss Hog finish. Straight up seems much more logical, but definitely felt like the E5 bit of the route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Amazing climb. Pumpy to the break and a good shakeout. Top wall felt pretty committing and unobvious, probably mainly due to lack of chalk? Seems like most people still traverse off to the Boss Hog finish. Straight up seems much more logical, but definitely felt like the E5 bit of the route
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
nathanlee 21 Jul 2nd rpt Got stood in the first break on Boss Hogg but couldn’t work out how to get into the groove so down climbed. Boiling
with goli
Got stood in the first break on Boss Hogg but couldn’t work out how to get into the groove so down climbed. Boiling
with goli
harry_lewis 20 Jul Lead dnf Totally defeated by this. Several g/u goes including a very close encounter with the boulders after pulling some gear. Definitely safe if you take the time to place more kit though. Cheers to Joe for some great belaying
with Jwatson
Totally defeated by this. Several g/u goes including a very close encounter with the boulders after pulling some gear. Definitely safe if you take the time to place more kit though. Cheers to Joe for some great belaying
with Jwatson
Hidden 12 Jul Lead G/U
EmmaAtkinson 12 Jul 2nd dog
with Rory Brown
with Rory Brown
Hidden 24 Mar Lead RP
Ram MkiV 28 Aug, 2018 2nd rpt was probably trying to climb a bit too direct/left on the finish last time. Not too bad if you head right a bit from undercut after the break but perhaps not obvious if unchalked and with the pump induced panic blinkers on...
was probably trying to climb a bit too direct/left on the finish last time. Not too bad if you head right a bit from undercut after the break but perhaps not obvious if unchalked and with the pump induced panic blinkers on...
Tangerine_Kingdom 7 May, 2018 Lead G/U Too hard to warm up! Great line. A little too fixated in the crack and missed some other holds blowing the onsight. Punter's shame!
Too hard to warm up! Great line. A little too fixated in the crack and missed some other holds blowing the onsight. Punter's shame!
Hidden 23 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Adam24B 15 Aug, 2017 Lead G/U GU 5th attempt, lesson to be learnt - if some beta doesn't work on consecutive attempts don't keep trying the same thing. After falling on the 4th attempt I decided a change of sequence was needed, to my surprise I'd been trying something unnecessarily hard...
with Kris2fa
GU 5th attempt, lesson to be learnt - if some beta doesn't work on consecutive attempts don't keep trying the same thing. After falling on the 4th attempt I decided a change of sequence was needed, to my surprise I'd been trying something unnecessarily hard...
with Kris2fa
JendeHoxar 9 Aug, 2017 2nd
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 9 Aug, 2017 Lead G/U #5. Second go g/u, easier when you don't have to place gear on that crux! Original finish, this route ate me at the break, yum yum!
with Jumar Jenny
#5. Second go g/u, easier when you don't have to place gear on that crux! Original finish, this route ate me at the break, yum yum!
with Jumar Jenny
Andy Peak 1 16 Jul, 2017 Lead dnf I new before I started it wasn't in good enough nick to climbe, but tried any way, down climbed and removed the two pieces of gear to preserv onsite
I new before I started it wasn't in good enough nick to climbe, but tried any way, down climbed and removed the two pieces of gear to preserv onsite
funsized 24 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S Beasty!
with sophie
Beasty!
with sophie
Sophie Nunn 24 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S First E5!
First E5!
Hidden 31 May, 2017 Lead O/S
D.Russell 31 May, 2017 2nd
mim tiller 21 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Super psyched to have got the on sight. Really suprised myself, but had to bust a nut to get it. Pretty steady going after the powerful moves lower down
with davkeo
Super psyched to have got the on sight. Really suprised myself, but had to bust a nut to get it. Pretty steady going after the powerful moves lower down
with davkeo
w.pettet-smith 18 Apr, 2017 2nd one of the best and hardest e5s i've been on. nails!
with ben
one of the best and hardest e5s i've been on. nails!
with ben
Wendy 16 Apr, 2017 Lead G/U
treesrockice 15 Apr, 2017 2nd dog Seconded Henry ...slowly . also got to watch Dunc's great attempt at ORB
Seconded Henry ...slowly . also got to watch Dunc's great attempt at ORB
Nathan Chrismas 15 Apr, 2017 2nd dog Aided my way up this. Superb lead by JT.
Aided my way up this. Superb lead by JT.
Justin T 15 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Awesome route, totally my cup of tea, gear all the way. Original finish.
Awesome route, totally my cup of tea, gear all the way. Original finish.
Toby Dunn ??, 2017 Lead
andyinglis 11 Oct, 2016 Lead β After belaying Murdo on it a few days ago. Unexpected surprise to get up it! Crux was placing enough kit to protect the hard bit!
with Murdoch Jamieson
After belaying Murdo on it a few days ago. Unexpected surprise to get up it! Crux was placing enough kit to protect the hard bit!
with Murdoch Jamieson
Ramon Marin 9 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S Just when I thought the Pembroke season was over, we managed to sneak in one last weekend. And this routes just made it, I saved it for so long for the onsight. I didn't find nowhere near as bad as the reputation, just one tricky move low down with loads of gear. Mind you, condition where total mint, dry, grippy and sunny.
with viki harvey
Just when I thought the Pembroke season was over, we managed to sneak in one last weekend. And this routes just made it, I saved it for so long for the onsight. I didn't find nowhere near as bad as the reputation, just one tricky move low down with loads of gear. Mind you, condition where total mint, dry, grippy and sunny.
with viki harvey
coula1 8 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
Dangerous Dave 8 Sep, 2016 Lead dnf Found this hard, will be back.
with coula1
Found this hard, will be back.
with coula1
dannyboy83 7 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
irish paul ?Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Tried the direct end but after three tries figured I'd do the original finish. Actually very pleasant climbing. Start is hard but ok once you hit the crack proper. Pumpy
with ali k
Tried the direct end but after three tries figured I'd do the original finish. Actually very pleasant climbing. Start is hard but ok once you hit the crack proper. Pumpy
with ali k
Ricky Rocks 14 Aug, 2016 Lead dnf Def not the right day for this, lucky escape!
with Si Rawlinson
Def not the right day for this, lucky escape!
with Si Rawlinson
Greg Cunningham 11 Aug, 2016 2nd rpt Forgotten how hard this was - struggled to stay on but clawed my way up with a screaming pump. Brilliant lead from Debbie on last day of an awesome trip.
with Debbie
Forgotten how hard this was - struggled to stay on but clawed my way up with a screaming pump. Brilliant lead from Debbie on last day of an awesome trip.
with Debbie
debsb ?Aug, 2016 Lead
with Greg Cunningham
with Greg Cunningham
Matt Cooke 28 May, 2016 Lead O/S
with Sam Taylor
with Sam Taylor
markalmack 7 May, 2016 Lead O/S Got a bit gripped cos was a little greasy. Headed left at the break cos i though i was less likely to fall off going this way!
Got a bit gripped cos was a little greasy. Headed left at the break cos i though i was less likely to fall off going this way!
Duncan Campbell 7 May, 2016 2nd Just one quick pull on a wire at the crux as its sort of in the way on second. very well protected
Just one quick pull on a wire at the crux as its sort of in the way on second. very well protected
Ed morris 13 Apr, 2016 Lead β Fell off last year because it was wet, greasy today but just got away with it.
Fell off last year because it was wet, greasy today but just got away with it.
Stefan_Morris 13 Apr, 2016 2nd
Twid Turner ??, 2016 -
Adam Ellwood 30 Aug, 2015 Lead G/U Took a couple of goes to do the start
Took a couple of goes to do the start
will smith11 9 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Went direct at the end and glad I did, felt like I was at LPT on the top wall and you dont have to stop to place gear. Some tricky moves on the lower section.
with Twisty
Went direct at the end and glad I did, felt like I was at LPT on the top wall and you dont have to stop to place gear. Some tricky moves on the lower section.
with Twisty
JBO 8 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Awesome. Tough move to get established in the crack then just yarding up on bomber fingerlocks to the break. Cool heel-toe-leg bar possible. Went for the original finish because I didn't fancy the run-out. It isn't actually as contrived as it looks in the topo and has some good climbing.
Awesome. Tough move to get established in the crack then just yarding up on bomber fingerlocks to the break. Cool heel-toe-leg bar possible. Went for the original finish because I didn't fancy the run-out. It isn't actually as contrived as it looks in the topo and has some good climbing.
anguskille 8 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Pumped! Was almost off so many times but pulled through on a few finger locks and lay down in the break! Awesome route, deserves the stars
with James Kay, Mike Grant
Pumped! Was almost off so many times but pulled through on a few finger locks and lay down in the break! Awesome route, deserves the stars
with James Kay, Mike Grant
Adam Booth 3 Jun, 2015 Lead dnf Goosed from the off!
Goosed from the off!
hamer89 29 May, 2015 Lead G/U tried to warm up on this and fell off! haha I blame the grease!
tried to warm up on this and fell off! haha I blame the grease!
Hidden 16 May, 2015 Lead RP
brices 16 May, 2015 Lead RP very greasy today
with Edd, Llinos C
very greasy today
with Edd, Llinos C
adam 24 19 Apr, 2015 2nd dog Utterly nails! The top wall is so hard.
with Ross
Utterly nails! The top wall is so hard.
with Ross
quiffhanger 19 Apr, 2015 Lead G/U Nails. Pumped out on the lower crack then second go had to dig _very_ deep on the upper section. Went direct as didn't realise there was an alternative. Great but easily 6b and not overly geared. Ended up crimping crozzles well above some pretty mediocre gear. Spicy!
with adam 24
Nails. Pumped out on the lower crack then second go had to dig _very_ deep on the upper section. Went direct as didn't realise there was an alternative. Great but easily 6b and not overly geared. Ended up crimping crozzles well above some pretty mediocre gear. Spicy!
with adam 24
brices 18 Apr, 2015 Lead dnf Sat on gear at the crux, great route will be back for round 2
Sat on gear at the crux, great route will be back for round 2
Hidden 21 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S
ian bryant ??, 2015 -
Hidden 27 Sep, 2014 Lead
nathanlee 14 Sep, 2014 Lead GU. Not a warm up. Harder work than orb
with Neil Mawson
GU. Not a warm up. Harder work than orb
with Neil Mawson
Apharri 27 Aug, 2014 Lead Ground Up. One fall near start.
with Dave Wharton
Ground Up. One fall near start.
with Dave Wharton
pipof747 ?Aug, 2014 Lead RP
jacobjacob 21 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Direct finish every time
Direct finish every time
tim newton 21 Apr, 2014 Lead dog 1 rest at the crux, didn't have the fitness after taking way too long to put the gear in for the crux move. Did the rest clean with the left hand finish which actually climbs well and makes sense despite looking like a bit of an escape in the guide. One to come back to and hopefully do clean with the direct finish.
with Misha
1 rest at the crux, didn't have the fitness after taking way too long to put the gear in for the crux move. Did the rest clean with the left hand finish which actually climbs well and makes sense despite looking like a bit of an escape in the guide. One to come back to and hopefully do clean with the direct finish.
with Misha
Misha 21 Apr, 2014 2nd dog
Tom Livingstone 21 Apr, 2014 Lead dnf Bugger. A bit greasy and a bit weak. Powerful and short-lived. Will return!
with phil64
Bugger. A bit greasy and a bit weak. Powerful and short-lived. Will return!
with phil64
phil64 21 Apr, 2014 2nd
Adam Lincoln 19 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
with Rick Kirby
with Rick Kirby
Rich Kirby 19 Apr, 2014 Lead β Glad to settle an old score. Some lateral thinking required on crux. Class.
Glad to settle an old score. Some lateral thinking required on crux. Class.
Howard Lawledge 18 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
with Maddy
with Maddy
Julian Cooper 14 Apr, 2014 Lead dog I've got myself a project! Hard move at the bottom, great jams and then exciting at the top.
with Stuart Knott
I've got myself a project! Hard move at the bottom, great jams and then exciting at the top.
with Stuart Knott
i_a_coops ??, 2014 Lead β Original finish up the route to the left as it looked easier.
Original finish up the route to the left as it looked easier.
Tom Livingstone 16 Aug, 2013 Lead dog Fell at crux move, tricky! Will be back for this!
Fell at crux move, tricky! Will be back for this!
Hidden 12 Aug, 2013 Lead dnf
Alice Thompson 3 Jul, 2013 Lead dog This was a tricky one.. but a lot of fun
This was a tricky one.. but a lot of fun
Hidden 3 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
dan gibson 3 Jul, 2013 2nd rpt
with alice thompson, Michael Porter
with alice thompson, Michael Porter
Hidden 9 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S
Keendan 9 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S Got pretty pumped when the flake wasn't the rest I was expecting. Just had enough in the tank for the next hard move. Thankfully the moves get steadily easier.
with remus
Got pretty pumped when the flake wasn't the rest I was expecting. Just had enough in the tank for the next hard move. Thankfully the moves get steadily easier.
with remus
piken 31 May, 2013 Lead RP rested putting the bottom gear in. Pulled the ropes and did it
rested putting the bottom gear in. Pulled the ropes and did it
steve_yo 26 May, 2013 Lead O/S left finish
with sam ring
left finish
with sam ring
morganator 5 May, 2013 Lead dnf Failed again, many years after initially trying it. Boxed after previous few days. Having previously aided my way up it decided to lower off
with Stan Halstead
Failed again, many years after initially trying it. Boxed after previous few days. Having previously aided my way up it decided to lower off
with Stan Halstead
barni 1 Apr, 2013 Lead
with Oates
with Oates
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 31 Mar, 2013 Lead
Duncan Campbell 31 Mar, 2013 2nd dog Nails, got mega cold on the belay so pulled on some wires through the crux. pretty steady after the crux moves.
Nails, got mega cold on the belay so pulled on some wires through the crux. pretty steady after the crux moves.
willoates 30 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S Barni had placed the wires protecting the crux, no doubt i could have placed them though. good route and the direct finish is great and technical!
with barni
Barni had placed the wires protecting the crux, no doubt i could have placed them though. good route and the direct finish is great and technical!
with barni
barni 30 Mar, 2013 2nd
redjerry 26 Aug, 2012 Lead G/U 2nd try
2nd try
Si Witcher 27 May, 2012 Lead O/S Onsighted the direct finish. Had led the LH finish previously, with a fall lower down. The direct is much more satisfying.
Onsighted the direct finish. Had led the LH finish previously, with a fall lower down. The direct is much more satisfying.
Luke Brooks 15 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
with Glyn Hudson
with Glyn Hudson
Glyn 15 Apr, 2012 2nd O/S
Ed Booth 7 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S original finish
original finish
Adam Booth 7 Apr, 2012 2nd O/S
bigie bob 6 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Apr, 2012 2nd β
thomasadixon 14 Aug, 2011 Lead RP Tried the day before and it felt nails (didn't finish), flashed easy first time today. Direct finish felt tough though.
with mwatson
Tried the day before and it felt nails (didn't finish), flashed easy first time today. Direct finish felt tough though.
with mwatson
feilx 4 Jul, 2011 Lead RP
with La Mont
with La Mont
mwatson ??, 2011 -
Alex Mason 22 Aug, 2010 Lead β Ground-up. Fell off reaching the crack proper, A hard move, then steadier but powerful moves to an easy left hand finish (direct was wet.) Not top 50 imo.
with Laura Perry, Mike Goldthorp
Ground-up. Fell off reaching the crack proper, A hard move, then steadier but powerful moves to an easy left hand finish (direct was wet.) Not top 50 imo.
with Laura Perry, Mike Goldthorp
Hidden 18 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 -
Hidden ?Aug, 2008 2nd dog
feilx 12 Jul, 2008 Lead dog
with La Mont
with La Mont
Ram MkiV 12 Sep, 2007 Lead dog onsighted this ok to the break. opted for the direct finish but became confused, committed and horrifically pumped. Fell off trying to retreat back to the break... gutted.
with reeve
onsighted this ok to the break. opted for the direct finish but became confused, committed and horrifically pumped. Fell off trying to retreat back to the break... gutted.
with reeve
Jason livesey ?Aug, 2007 Lead dog
with dave
with dave
Hidden 29 Jul, 2007 2nd β
Kev Little ??, 2006 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 20 May, 2005 AltLd rpt Karin led this time
with karin
Karin led this time
with karin
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 Lead O/S
with Steve Adams
with Steve Adams
buzby78 8 May, 2002 Lead
Steve Crowe 3 May, 1999 Lead O/S Finished direct.
with karin
Finished direct.
with karin
sadams 16 Aug, 1998 Lead O/S
with Pete Bukowski
with Pete Bukowski
innes ?Aug, 1998 Lead O/S direct finish.
with Jon Bracey
direct finish.
with Jon Bracey
morganator ?Sep, 1997 Lead dog
with Phil Bent
with Phil Bent
jfletcher 22 Jun, 1997 Lead RP Clean ascent after a failed attempt a year or so earlier. Original finish (leftwards traverse).
Clean ascent after a failed attempt a year or so earlier. Original finish (leftwards traverse).
Dave Musgrove Jnr 9 Sep, 1996 Lead O/S
with Al Willoner
with Al Willoner
goi.ashmore 12 May, 1996 Lead RP
with James Tracey
with James Tracey
Greg Cunningham ?May, 1995 Lead G/U 1 fall at crux, lowered to ground then did it. Didn't bother pulling rope.
with marcus Horr
1 fall at crux, lowered to ground then did it. Didn't bother pulling rope.
with marcus Horr
Billg ?May, 1994 Lead O/S
with Keith Sharples
with Keith Sharples
craig h ??, 1994 Lead
Hidden 30 Aug, 1993 Lead O/S
Dave Rumney 29 Aug, 1992 2nd
PaulTanton ?Jun, 1991 Lead O/S
with Garath Bloor
with Garath Bloor
Hidden 25 Aug, 1990 Lead
Alan James - UKC and UKH 28 May, 1990 Lead
Hidden ??, 1990 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1990 Lead
DDDD ??, 1989 Lead rpt
UKB Shark 23 May, 1987 Lead
with Seb Grieve
with Seb Grieve
keefe 13 Jul, 1986 -
with Johnny Adams
with Johnny Adams
UKB Shark ?Nov, 1985 Lead dnf
with Richard O Mara
with Richard O Mara
Mike Owen 17 Aug, 1985 Lead O/S
with Ian Carr
with Ian Carr
Hidden 29 Apr, 1985 Lead
Steve Lewis 5 Jun, 1984 Lead O/S
with Clive Curle
with Clive Curle
Hidden ??, 1984 Lead
Gary Gibson ?Aug, 1983 Lead G/U Flashed. Direct finish was 1985.
with Phil Gibson
Flashed. Direct finish was 1985.
with Phil Gibson
Mark Kemball 26 Apr, 1983 2nd
with Dave Kenyon
with Dave Kenyon
duncan ??, 1983 Lead dog Date is approximate
Date is approximate
Mark Kemball 7 Sep, 1982 Lead
with Paul Clark, Steve Finch
with Paul Clark, Steve Finch
Hidden 24 Jul, 1982 Lead
Mark Kemball 10 Apr, 1982 Lead dnf
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
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Voting
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Votes cast 27
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Votes cast 26
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
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Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set