Rockfax Description
A strenuous and well-protected crack climb to the break, with a technical and slightly bold direct finish for dessert. Start below a groove and prominent crack, in the centre of the wall. Climb the groove to a flake on the left. Make a hard move into the crack above which gives sustained climbing to the big break. Pull over onto the upper wall, place some wires, and climb it to the top via some tricky and committing moves. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn 30.4.80 (Direct) G.Gibson 30/Apr/1980

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 20 Routes For 2017.

Hidden 23/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Adam24B 15/Aug/17 Lead G/U

GU 5th attempt, lesson to be learnt - if some beta doesn't work on consecutive attempts don't keep trying the same thing. After falling on the 4th attempt I decided a change of sequence was needed, to my surprise I'd been trying something unnecessarily hard...

JendeHoxar 09/Aug/17 2nd
with Flavio
Flavio 09/Aug/17 Lead G/U

#5. Second go g/u, easier when you don't have to place gear on that crux! Original finish, this route ate me at the break, yum yum!

Andy Peak 1 16/Jul/17 Lead dnf

I new before I started it wasn't in good enough nick to climbe, but tried any way, down climbed and removed the two pieces of gear to preserv onsite

funsized 24/Jun/17 2nd O/S


with sophie
Sophie Nunn 24/Jun/17 Lead O/S

First E5!

Hidden 31/May/17 Lead O/S
D.Russell 31/May/17 2nd
with Adam
Timothy Miller 21/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Super psyched to have got the on sight. Really suprised myself, but had to bust a nut to get it. Pretty steady going after the powerful moves lower down

w.pettet-smith 18/Apr/17 2nd

one of the best and hardest e5s i've been on. nails!

with ben
Wendy 16/Apr/17 Lead G/U
bede.west 15/Apr/17 2nd dog

Seconded Henry ...slowly . also got to watch Dunc's great attempt at ORB

Nathan Chrismas 15/Apr/17 2nd dog

Aided my way up this. Superb lead by JT.

with Timms
Justin T 15/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Awesome route, totally my cup of tea, gear all the way. Original finish.

Toby Dunn ??/2017 Lead
andyinglis 11/Oct/16 Lead β

After belaying Murdo on it a few days ago. Unexpected surprise to get up it! Crux was placing enough kit to protect the hard bit!

with Murdoch Jamieson
Ramon Marin 09/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Just when I thought the Pembroke season was over, we managed to sneak in one last weekend. And this routes just made it, I saved it for so long for the onsight. I didn't find nowhere near as bad as the reputation, just one tricky move low down with loads of gear. Mind you, condition where total mint, dry, grippy and sunny.

with viki harvey
coula1 08/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Dangerous Dave 08/Sep/16 Lead dnf

Found this hard, will be back.

dannyboy83 07/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Lena
irish paul ?/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Tried the direct end but after three tries figured I'd do the original finish. Actually very pleasant climbing. Start is hard but ok once you hit the crack proper. Pumpy

with ali k
Ricky Rocks 14/Aug/16 Lead dnf

Def not the right day for this, lucky escape!

with Si Rawlinson
Greg Cunningham 11/Aug/16 2nd rpt

Forgotten how hard this was - struggled to stay on but clawed my way up with a screaming pump. Brilliant lead from Debbie on last day of an awesome trip.

with Debbie
Hidden ?/Aug/16 Lead
Matt Cooke 28/May/16 Lead O/S
with Sam Taylor
markalmack 07/May/16 Lead O/S

Got a bit gripped cos was a little greasy. Headed left at the break cos i though i was less likely to fall off going this way!

Duncan Campbell 07/May/16 2nd

Just one quick pull on a wire at the crux as its sort of in the way on second. very well protected

with Almadad
Ed morris 13/Apr/16 Lead β

Fell off last year because it was wet, greasy today but just got away with it.

Stefan_Morris 13/Apr/16 2nd
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Adam Ellwood 30/Aug/15 Lead G/U

Took a couple of goes to do the start

will smith11 09/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Went direct at the end and glad I did, felt like I was at LPT on the top wall and you dont have to stop to place gear. Some tricky moves on the lower section.

with Twisty
JBO 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Awesome. Tough move to get established in the crack then just yarding up on bomber fingerlocks to the break. Cool heel-toe-leg bar possible. Went for the original finish because I didn't fancy the run-out. It isn't actually as contrived as it looks in the topo and has some good climbing.

anguskille 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Pumped! Was almost off so many times but pulled through on a few finger locks and lay down in the break! Awesome route, deserves the stars

with James Kay, Mike Grant
Adam Booth 03/Jun/15 Lead dnf

Goosed from the off!

Hidden 16/May/15 Lead RP
brices 16/May/15 Lead RP

very greasy today

with Edd, Llinos
adam 24 19/Apr/15 2nd dog

Utterly nails! The top wall is so hard.

with Ross
quiffhanger 19/Apr/15 Lead G/U

Nails. Pumped out on the lower crack then second go had to dig _very_ deep on the upper section. Went direct as didn't realise there was an alternative. Great but easily 6b and not overly geared. Ended up crimping crozzles well above some pretty mediocre gear. Spicy!

brices 18/Apr/15 Lead dnf

Sat on gear at the crux, great route will be back for round 2

with Llinos
Hidden 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S
ian bryant ??/2015 -
Hidden 27/Sep/14 Lead
nathanlee 14/Sep/14 Lead

GU. Not a warm up. Harder work than orb

with Neil Mawson
Apharri 27/Aug/14 Lead

Ground Up. One fall near start.

with Dave Wharton
jacobjacob 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Direct finish every time

tim newton 21/Apr/14 Lead dog

1 rest at the crux, didn't have the fitness after taking way too long to put the gear in for the crux move. Did the rest clean with the left hand finish which actually climbs well and makes sense despite looking like a bit of an escape in the guide. One to come back to and hopefully do clean with the direct finish.

Misha 21/Apr/14 2nd dog
Tom Livingstone 21/Apr/14 Lead dnf

Bugger. A bit greasy and a bit weak. Powerful and short-lived. Will return!

phil64 21/Apr/14 2nd
Adam Lincoln 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Rick Kirby
Rich Kirby 19/Apr/14 Lead β

Glad to settle an old score. Some lateral thinking required on crux. Class.

Howard Lawledge 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Maddy
Julian Cooper 14/Apr/14 Lead dog

I've got myself a project! Hard move at the bottom, great jams and then exciting at the top.

with Stuart Knott
i_a_coops ??/2014 Lead β

Original finish up the route to the left as it looked easier.

Tom Livingstone 16/Aug/13 Lead dog

Fell at crux move, tricky! Will be back for this!

Hidden 12/Aug/13 Lead dnf
Alice Thompson 03/Jul/13 Lead dog

This was a tricky one.. but a lot of fun

Hidden 03/Jul/13 2nd O/S
dan gibson 03/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with alice thompson, michael porter
Hidden 09/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Keendan 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Got pretty pumped when the flake wasn't the rest I was expecting. Just had enough in the tank for the next hard move. Thankfully the moves get steadily easier.

with Remus
piken 31/May/13 Lead RP

rested putting the bottom gear in. Pulled the ropes and did it

steve_yo 26/May/13 Lead O/S

left finish

with sam ring
morganator 05/May/13 Lead dnf

Failed again, many years after initially trying it. Boxed after previous few days. Having previously aided my way up it decided to lower off

with Stan Halstead
barni 01/Apr/13 Lead
with Oates
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 31/Mar/13 Lead
Duncan Campbell 31/Mar/13 2nd dog

Nails, got mega cold on the belay so pulled on some wires through the crux. pretty steady after the crux moves.

with Robbie
willoates 30/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Barni had placed the wires protecting the crux, no doubt i could have placed them though. good route and the direct finish is great and technical!

with barni
barni 30/Mar/13 2nd
redjerry 26/Aug/12 Lead G/U

2nd try

switch 27/May/12 Lead O/S

Onsighted the direct finish. Had led the LH finish previously, with a fall lower down. The direct is much more satisfying.

Luke Brooks 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Glyn Hudson
Glyn 15/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Luke
Ed Booth 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S

original finish

Adam Booth 07/Apr/12 2nd O/S
bigie bob 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/12 2nd β
thomasadixon 14/Aug/11 Lead RP

Tried the day before and it felt nails (didn't finish), flashed easy first time today. Direct finish felt tough though.

with Mike
feilx 04/Jul/11 Lead RP
with Andy L
mwatson ??/2011 -
Alex Mason 22/Aug/10 Lead β

Ground-up. Fell off reaching the crack proper, A hard move, then steadier but powerful moves to an easy left hand finish (direct was wet.) Not top 50 imo.

with Laura Perry, Mikey G
Hidden 18/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jan/10 -
Hidden ?/Aug/08 2nd dog
feilx 12/Jul/08 Lead dog
with Andy L
Ram MkiV 12/Sep/07 Lead dog

onsighted this ok to the break. opted for the direct finish but became confused, committed and horrifically pumped. Fell off trying to retreat back to the break... gutted.

with reeve
Hidden ?/Aug/07 Lead dog
Hidden 29/Jul/07 2nd β
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 20/May/05 AltLd rpt

Karin led this time

with KM
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Steve Adams
buzby78 08/May/02 Lead
Steve Crowe 03/May/99 Lead O/S

Finished direct.

with KM
sadams 16/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Pete Bukowski
innes ?/Aug/98 Lead O/S

direct finish.

with Jon Bracey
morganator ?/Sep/97 Lead dog
with Phil Bent
jfletcher 22/Jun/97 Lead RP

Clean ascent after a failed attempt a year or so earlier. Original finish (leftwards traverse).

Dave Musgrove Jnr 09/Sep/96 Lead O/S
with Al Willoner
goi.ashmore 12/May/96 Lead RP
with James Tracey
Greg Cunningham ?/May/95 Lead G/U

1 fall at crux, lowered to ground then did it. Didn't bother pulling rope.

with marcus Horr
Billg ?/May/94 Lead O/S
with Keith Sharples
craig h ??/1994 Lead
Hidden 30/Aug/93 Lead O/S
Dave Rumney 29/Aug/92 2nd
PaulTanton ?/Jun/91 Lead O/S
with Garath Bloor
Hidden 25/Aug/90 Lead
Alan James - UKC and UKH 28/May/90 Lead
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke ??/1990 Lead

On Paul's gear

with Paul Greenland
DDDD ??/1989 Lead rpt
ukb & bmc shark 23/May/87 Lead
with Seb Grieve
keefe 13/Jul/86 -
with Johnny Adams
ukb & bmc shark ?/Nov/85 Lead dnf
with Richard O Mara
Mike Owen 17/Aug/85 Lead O/S
with Ian Carr
Hidden 29/Apr/85 Lead
Steve Lewis 05/Jun/84 Lead O/S
with Clive Curle
Hidden ??/1984 Lead
Gary Gibson ?/Aug/83 Lead G/U

Flashed. Direct finish was 1985.

with Phil Gibson
Mark Kemball 26/Apr/83 2nd
with Dave Kenyon
duncan ??/1983 Lead dog

Date is approximate

Mark Kemball 07/Sep/82 Lead
with Paul Clark, Steve Finch
Hidden 24/Jul/82 Lead
Mark Kemball 10/Apr/82 Lead dnf
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
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High E6
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High 6b
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High 5c
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
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