UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

In addition to the agreed restrictions noted below, Peregrines can also nest here and occasionally an agreed restriction is also in place for the routes ‘Sound of the Suburbs’ to ‘Endangered Species’ inclusive. - see signs by the abseil stakes. 

Seasonal Restriction  from 'Meatloaf' to 'Breaking the Habit' inclusive - this is the buttress to the right (east) of 'The Hole' and below the red pot at the cliff top.

RESTRICTION LIFTED JULY 3rd 2023

 

 

35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The route up the open corner at the east end of the large platform beneath the abseil has a good first pitch. After that it is a matter of "any way out will do!"
1) 5a, 20m. Climb the corner, moving right around the roof to a large hole. Belay on the ledge.
2) 4b, 15m. Climb the groove and corner on the left to the top. Take care with loose rock. © Rockfax

FA. R.Crewe, K.Winkworth 1981.

Ticklists

Easy Pemb

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Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 13
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Inner Space

Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)

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