Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
In addition to the agreed restrictions noted below, Peregrines can also nest here and occasionally an agreed restriction is also in place for the routes ‘Sound of the Suburbs’ to ‘Endangered Species’ inclusive. - see signs by the abseil stakes.
Seasonal Restriction from 'Meatloaf' to 'Breaking the Habit' inclusive - this is the buttress to the right (east) of 'The Hole' and below the red pot at the cliff top.
RESTRICTION LIFTED JULY 3rd 2023
Rockfax Description
The route up the open corner at the east end of the large platform beneath the abseil has a good first pitch. After that it is a matter of "any way out will do!"
1) 5a, 20m. Climb the corner, moving right around the roof to a large hole. Belay on the ledge.
2) 4b, 15m. Climb the groove and corner on the left to the top. Take care with loose rock. © Rockfax
FA. R.Crewe, K.Winkworth 1981.
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Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)