Rockfax Description
A 2-star first pitch up the right wall of the corner is high in the grade. Climb the bold lower section to a small ledge. Move up to the break then right to some cracks which are followed to the large break. Either traverse left to belay and finish up Gypsy Lane; or better, traverse right to the large ledge and abseil from threads. © Rockfax

FA. J de Montjoye 15/Nov/1982

Ticklists: Ultimate E3 ticklist.

brices 12/Aug Lead O/S

not the easy final route of the day we wanted, turned into a three hour epic, Llinos had a good burn and passed over the lead, i pulled a huge amount of loose crap off just past the lip which cut one of our ropes (loose coil on the floor), queue a belay at mid height, we then chose to top out via the over grown chossy HVS corner, a memorable experience to be sure, the beer was well earned that night

with Llinos
GPN 17/Apr Lead O/S
with Matt Foot
thomb 11/Oct/15 2nd
NuclearNev ??/2015 -
Ricky Rocks 15/May/14 Lead O/S
HAJ Francis ??/2014 Lead O/S
Ed morris 14/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Regardless of how good you are at fiddling in RPs the gear is poor moving up to the break. Safe after halfway though with a good runout near the top. Ace route, proper E3.

with Adam Bevan
JBO 09/Aug/12 Lead O/S

I thought the lower section was pretty bold and the upper section was pretty steep - tough E3.

Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
belay bunny turned bad 25/Oct/09 AltLd
with Debbie
Alex Mason 03/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Absolutely excellent route, if you can do this you can climb E4.

with Nick Rabb
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/09 2nd rpt
ksjs ?/Feb/09 Lead O/S

quality but much easier in retrospect than it seems when on it. i got good gear (4 bits) before moving up on lower wall though it still feels quite committing. the ledge isnt quite the ledge youd like it to be and gaining the upper crack took some thought though once established this is straightforward. the end is a bit cheeky with a bit of a run out, direct seemed to lead nowhere so i moved right at top of crack to finish via good small blocks and edges. v worthwhile

gforce 06/Aug/08 Lead
with Jason
Hidden ?/Aug/08 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/08 2nd
nickcanute ??/2008 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 24/Aug/07 Lead β

karin led, then me, Pat seconded.

with Pat, KM
janegallwey ??/2007 2nd
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Boy ??/2006 -
Gus 28/May/05 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
sadams 13/Apr/04 2nd
with Eric Hildrew
Hidden 24/Aug/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/02 Lead O/S
Billg ??/2001 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/00 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
sadams 30/Aug/98 Lead
with Pete Bukowski
Steve Long ??/1998 Lead
Hidden 19/Oct/97 Lead O/S
duncan 26/Jul/97 Lead O/S
with Hugo Glover
ukb & bmc shark 27/May/96 Lead
with Sonia
Roget 22/Jun/95 Lead O/S
with jon
jfletcher 27/May/94 Lead O/S
with Nick Wharton
Dave Musgrove Jnr 11/Apr/93 2nd
Dave Musgrove 11/Apr/93 Lead
with Pete Finklaire, David
Greg Cunningham ??/1993 Lead
Eduardo Martinez 30/May/91 Lead O/S
Dave Rumney 04/May/91 2nd
steve taylor ?/Aug/90 2nd
with Jim Waddington
Rich Kirby ?/Jul/90 2nd
Hidden 02/Jun/89 -
Bruce Kerr 28/Mar/89 Lead
with Neville Elstone
Hidden ??/1989 -
Alan James - UKC and UKH 06/Apr/88 Lead
with Phil Baker
Will Webb ?/Jun/87 Lead
with Mark Cole
andy gittins ??/1987 -
Steve Clegg 05/Apr/86 AltLd
with Gough
keefe 28/Dec/85 -
Mike Owen 16/Apr/84 Lead O/S
with Phil Ralph
jon 15/Nov/82 Lead

first ascent

with H
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 11
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 11
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set