Restricted Access
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
In addition to the agreed restrictions noted below, Peregrines can also nest here and occasionally an agreed restriction is also in place for the routes ‘Sound of the Suburbs’ to ‘Endangered Species’ inclusive. - see signs by the abseil stakes.
Seasonal Restriction from 'Meatloaf' to 'Breaking the Habit' inclusive - this is the buttress to the right (east) of 'The Hole' and below the red pot at the cliff top.
Rockfax Description
The next route continues the theme of testing technical wall climbs with thought-provoking gear. 10m left of the arete is a shallow groove which turns into a wide crack.
1) 6b, 20m. Climb the groove with increasing difficulty to eventually reach the crack with some relief. Follow this to a break, then traverse left until you are below another crack. Climb this crack to a cave and hanging belay.
2) 5c, 25m. Step 3m left then pull over into a thin crack which leads to a ledge on the left. Move back right and climb the bulging groove above to the top. © Rockfax
FA. J. de Montjoye, I.Parsons 18/Apr/1982.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Trevallen Cliff
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Alien World Direct
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)