Restricted Access
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
In addition to the agreed restrictions noted below, Peregrines can also nest here and occasionally an agreed restriction is also in place for the routes ‘Sound of the Suburbs’ to ‘Endangered Species’ inclusive. - see signs by the abseil stakes.
Seasonal Restriction from 'Meatloaf' to 'Breaking the Habit' inclusive - this is the buttress to the right (east) of 'The Hole' and below the red pot at the cliff top.
Rockfax Description
This popular route has two contrasting, high quality pitches. The first pitch is an excellent E1 5b in its own right and from the top you can easily walk off to St Govan's.
1) 5b, 20m. Start 5m right of the corner and climb the wall to reach a vague crack. Follow this to a break and traverse right to another crack. A hard move at the top of this gains a short groove which leads to the ledge.
2) 5c, 25m. Climb the leftwards slanting groove behind the stance, to a ledge. Then follow the steep wall and groove above to the top. © Rockfax
FA. I.Parsons, J. de Montjoye 20/Jun/1981.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Trevallen Cliff
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Cornish Cream
Grade: E3 6a ***
(St. David's Head West)