Rockfax Description
A great route up the centre of the square buttress to the left (looking in) of the abseil line. Start in the centre of the buttress, below a left-leaning ramp. Climb the ramp to a good flake on the arete - lace this with gear, then make a tricky traverse back right to a hard move past an old peg. Finish strenuously right or left. © Rockfax

FA. J de Montjoye, I Parsons, B Hannon 17/Jul/1982

rashwell 03/Jan 2nd
with Louis
khalidq 01/Sep/17 2nd β
with Hywel Rowlands
Hidden 23/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Lessworkmoreclimbing 15/Aug/17 2nd

Seconded clean - just. Not sure if quite ready for the lead yet.

with Kev
Hidden 31/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/17 Lead O/S
brunomarks 14/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Good small nut as Trav right

with Luke Allin
C May 12/Jul/17 2nd dog

Not a good warm up route, or maybe traversed right too low but needed to rest.

with Tim
Longsufferingropeholder 12/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Almost came to grief trying to top out too far left. Steady 5c if you find the right sequence.

with C May
Stanners 13/Jun/17 2nd O/S

just about! very tricky perplexing action at the top!

with Fiend
PaulTanton 27/May/17 Lead rpt
with Spenser Grey
Nick Wallis 19/May/17 2nd O/S
with Tom Holdsworth, Tom Bridgeland
pie_eater_pete 07/May/17 Lead O/S
bwestwood 07/May/17 2nd
Hidden 16/Apr/17 2nd
Elliot Walker 15/Apr/17 2nd O/S
pete johnson 15/Apr/17 Lead rpt
with Elliot
WB 15/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Guy
gazhbo ?/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2017 -
mr mills 08/Sep/16 Lead dog

Messed up the top bit below the peg, went to high and got pumped, had a shake out and did it the right way !!!!

with dave lyon
Dave Lyon 06/Sep/16 2nd
with Mills
Mike W 27/Aug/16 TR O/S
with chris
Mike Todd 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Tough E3 and worth 6a in my book. The moves on the top third of the route are steep, sustained and technical. Excellent climbing though. First two thirds is probably only HVS.

with Ian Wyatt
Chriswallis2 26/Aug/16 TR O/S
with Mike W
benkelsey 20/Aug/16 Lead dnf

Rained off, thank god, as not sure it would have gone. Escaped up the dodgy chimney to the left.

Hidden 13/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Owen W-G 13/Aug/16 Lead dog

Bollocks! Fell off right at the v last move. So pumped, can't wait for round 2.

with Pavol
pete johnson 12/Aug/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Aug/16 2nd O/S
AlexD 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Got a bit confused at the top. Rockfax guidebook said make hard move past peg, then finish left or right. I found the hard moves traversing right and up to the peg. Got super pumped trying to go left, thinking this was crux, but seemed a dead end. Just about managed to finish up to the right after that, only to find later that someone else's CC guide says to finish that way, with no mention of a leftwards finish. frustrating, but finally topping out was definitely sweeter after that battle!

with Ed
Ed Babs 06/Aug/16 2nd O/S

Ignore the Rockfax and go right at the top after the peg. Going left doesn't look feasible.

with AlexD
The Grist 04/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Kris2fa 01/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Adam24B
Adam24B 01/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/16 2nd
Hidden 31/May/16 Lead O/S
Matt Cooke 30/May/16 Lead O/S
with Sam Taylor
Wendy 29/May/16 Lead O/S
with Tash
phil64 29/May/16 2nd
with Andy Bowman
bigdrew 29/May/16 Lead O/S
with Dunc Frish
Richard Kendrick 26/May/16 Lead O/S
jon_gill1 26/May/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/May/16 Lead
Hidden 15/May/16 2nd
duncan 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Apr/16 2nd dog
Hidden 23/Apr/16 2nd
pearson9596 23/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Jen Booys
Stefan_Morris 13/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Ramon Marin 06/Apr/16 2nd
with Douglas Russell
D.Russell 06/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Ramon
Hidden ??/2016 -
theotherpetehill 31/Aug/15 Lead dnf

Fell off below peg, couldn't figure out the moves - took a bit of a swing

with Adam Brown, Chris Allan
James Marshall 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Pete Shepherd
Ed Booth 02/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Adam Booth 02/Jun/15 Lead O/S
morganator 25/May/15 Lead
nicola parkin 25/May/15 2nd O/S
with jon
Hidden 17/May/15 Lead dnf
pete johnson 11/Apr/15 2nd
geoff b 11/Apr/15 Lead

long time since I did this & it took a while to summon up the nerve, only to find it was pretty straight forward.

Llinos C 06/Apr/15 Lead
Hidden 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
brices 06/Apr/15 2nd β

hard moves rightwards

with Llinos
red_rhodesha 05/Apr/15 2nd
with Jonny Aylwin
NuclearNev ??/2015 -
tash 31/Aug/14 2nd

Tricky traverse but good route.

with ali k
Hidden 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
mynyddresident 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Excellent moves across the headwall

with KP
redjerry 16/Jul/14 Lead

In the rain

with Ed Morris
Hidden 15/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Justin T 26/May/14 Lead O/S

Started up forbidden fruits but I couldn't see the peg out right to traverse to, ended up too high I think at which point traversing looked improbable, finished up Adam's rib which actually felt a far more logical way to go and a cool spicy finish to the route.

with Ramon
Ramon Marin 26/May/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead O/S
bigie bob 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S
markalmack 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S

good. Gradually getting harder, the higher you get. perfect

with james marjot
simon kimber 18/Apr/14 2nd
Wood for Trees 18/Apr/14 Lead β

I'd watched Rob on it the day before. What a crux and then it keeps on coming!

nathanlee 17/Apr/14 2nd
with Rob Greenwood
Tubs 09/Apr/14 2nd β
with Dave M
w.pettet-smith ?/Apr/14 Lead

Ooo heck! Great moves, quite blind and committing I thought

with simon kimber
metal arms 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Ed morris 04/Jun/13 Lead β

After messing up the lead at christmas.

with Adam Bevan
Duncan Campbell 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Felt bold questing away from the arete, but there is quite a lot of kit. Interesting technical climbing on sometime unpositive rock

with Ollie B
soph 04/May/13 2nd
with Alex Hughes
Mike_Hayes 04/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/13 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 04/May/13 2nd O/S
Chi Cheng 04/May/13 Lead O/S
Thunderthighsontheloose 04/May/13 2nd O/S
nicolat ?/May/13 2nd
with James Mitchell
Ed morris 01/Jan/13 Lead dog

felt tricky but not hard right untill the last 2 metres. Rested on a nut. recovered and finished. Very pumpy.

with Adam Bevan
jcw ??/2013 -
martinazando 13/Oct/12 2nd
al99 13/Oct/12 Lead O/S

I thought this was nails for E3. Perhaps I got it wrong. I traversed with feet on Quartzite footholds (not calcite as the book says) using tiny crimps and weird side pulls. Perhaps I did it wrong but it felt pretty close to 6a with gear way out left on the arete.

gregoritos 11/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/12 2nd O/S
robin_hackney 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Si
Dave Foster 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Si 2
soph 27/Jul/12 Lead rpt
with Annelies Sarrazyn
Hidden ?/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden ?/May/12 Lead O/S
Owain Llewelyn 09/Mar/12 Lead
with Gareth E
john nightingale 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
redjerry ?/Aug/11 TR O/S

barely made it, arms felt like lead

dannyboy83 05/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Jake
jacobjlloyd 05/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead RP
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 19/Jun/11 Lead dog
dan gibson 03/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with richard lade
feilx 29/May/11 Lead O/S

tried the direct alternative but confused the line and ended up on this. Excellent route - traverse is wild, got rock throughout.

with Heather
Mike Goldthorp 03/Apr/11 Lead β

Took over the lead from al. Brilliant exposed traverse moves, peg is a bit poor but other gear available, great stuff!

ksjs 02/Sep/10 Lead O/S

a real pleasure: the lower part is a delight and the traverse looks tricky but is fine and then, when you think its over, the finish takes a bit of effort. i headed right at finish - left looked unlikely and like it doesnt get done despite RF description. also, the tricky move isnt getting the peg its the traverse - if you do the traverse you should get the peg no problem. the peg can be backed up easily with a good wire (peg looked fine though). do it!

with phil
NeilGriffiths 29/Aug/10 Lead


with Dave Garry, Simon Frost
frost 29/Aug/10 2nd
with N Griffiths, D Garry
Rob Pitt 14/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/10 Lead O/S
simonp ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Garan Comley
Jessie Rushbrooke 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S

First E3

with GF
Hidden 22/May/10 Lead O/S
mux ??/2010 -
with Simon Frost , Neil Griffiths
Hidden 30/Jun/09 Lead dnf
Hidden 15/Jun/09 2nd
datoon 03/May/09 Lead O/S
with K
pete johnson ?/May/09 -
with Paul Donnithorne
LC ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Gus 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Paz 07/Jul/07 Lead dnf

Escaped up the HVS mud chimney. I had an attack of the shits/ nausea before hand (as if that's any excuse). I think you traverse R quite low on this route, though the CC description says go high on calcite foot holds, by which I presume they mean the quartzy blobs.

with TS
Onions 05/May/07 2nd dog
with Neville Contractor
Hidden 09/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Wil Treasure ??/2007 2nd
Neil Ireson 21/Jul/06 Lead

A pleasant route with a puzzling crux (at least it was for me) and nicely safe, although I found the pre-crux gear fiddly to place. Only worth one star as there's really only 15-20 foot of E3 climbing the rest being HVS/E1.

with Jane
Hidden ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Chad123 ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S

Fun steep moves to finish, think it's worth E3, harder than the butcher and ghost ship. You gotta keep moving on this one!

with Huw
Hidden 10/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 22/May/05 Lead O/S
with Tuffty Nick
Alan James - UKC and UKH 20/May/05 Lead

Easy E3. Good gear out left then a tricky traverse and up to the ancient peg.

with Gareth Hallam
Billg ??/2005 Lead O/S
Mark Davies PK ?/Aug/04 2nd O/S
with Jack G
Hidden 26/Mar/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/03 Lead O/S
morganator ?/Aug/01 Lead
with Neil McAdie
Hidden 09/Sep/99 2nd
Hidden 09/Sep/99 Lead
Hidden 03/May/99 Lead
Hidden 01/May/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/98 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jan/98 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/1998 2nd β
Hidden 23/Oct/97 Lead O/S
sadams 22/Jun/97 Lead
with Team Midlands
pete johnson 26/May/97 2nd
with Hughie
michael burrows 06/Jul/96 Lead O/S
with mark ryan
Hidden 16/Sep/95 2nd
Seymore Butt ??/1995 Lead
with Swinney
jfletcher 29/May/94 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?/Aug/93 Lead
with Graham Iles
Dave Musgrove Jnr 12/Apr/93 Lead

felt bold

Dave Musgrove 12/Apr/93 2nd

David Led

with Pete Finklaire, David
pete johnson 11/Apr/93 2nd
with Mick Green
Roget 18/Apr/92 2nd O/S
with colin, baccy
Rich Kirby ?/Apr/92 2nd
PaulTanton ?/Apr/92 Lead
Steve Crowe 09/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with KM
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1989 Lead
Hidden 09/Jul/87 Lead
Eduardo Martinez 20/Apr/87 Lead O/S
Steve Lewis 19/Apr/87 Lead O/S
with Clive Curle
Bruce Kerr 05/Apr/87 Lead
with Sandra Graham
wynaptomos ?/Apr/87 Lead O/S
andy gittins ??/1987 -
keefe 06/Sep/86 -
with Johnny Adams
Neil McA 17/Aug/86 Lead O/S
with Jim Dockery
Mike Owen 27/May/86 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 04/May/86 2nd
ukb & bmc shark 03/Apr/86 Lead O/S
with Geraldine Taylor
Mark Kemball 21/Jul/83 Lead
with Dave Abbey
Hidden 17/Jul/82 2nd
Hidden 17/Jul/82 Lead
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 33
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 30
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set