UKC

Restricted Access

This crag is not in the MoD range. Previously the whole west side of the crag was subject to seasonal restrictions but as of July 2011, following detailed negotiations with the National Trust and the Countryside Council for Wales, the seasonal restrictions were removed. However birds have recently returned to nest on the right wall of Diedre Sud so a smaller restricted zone has been introduced.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Seasonal Climbing Restriction from and including  'Diedre Sud' to 'Flax of a Dream' due to nesting Razorbills.  Birds are nesting in the upper break running right from 'Diedre Sud'.  Look for cliff top signs but be prepared to adjust plans: 'Blowin' in the Wind' and 'Snozwanger' can be accessd direct by abseil down the wall.  If climbing 'Heart of Darkness', please finish up 'Blowin' in the Wind' or 'Snozwanger', not 'New Morning' or 'Diedre Sud'.

Please check the actual location of nests by looking over the edge from above 'Blowing in the Wind'. If the Razorbills are using the ledges right next to Diedre Sud, please do not climb 'Heart of Darkness' or 'Snozwanger' or 'Blowing in the Wind'.

Signs will be in place at the cliff for any updates.

Also, due to the possibility of nesting choughs in the dank cave left of the route 'Fools Rush In', please avoid hanging around near this cave.  

 

55m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A good route with some exposed climbing. Start by abseiling to the base of Diedre Sud.
1) 4b, 20m. Traverse right, as for Razorbill, to the ledge below the big corner and belay.
2) 5b, 35m. Climb the corner to the roof (possible belay). Traverse left under the roof then pull around and mantelshelf onto a ledge. Step back right to reach the base of a crack and climb this to the top. © Rockfax

FA. J.Perrin, M.Riley 01/Aug/1981.

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Route of Interest
Bon Voyage

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Misty Walls)

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