40m.

Rockfax Description
Once an enjoyable and popular classic but it has suffered from rockfalls over the years. The route has now stabilised but is still a bit dirty and is also a popular nesting zone. Start beneath the corner and climb the right-hand groove and some cracks above it, to a ledge. Follow the corner above to its top. © Rockfax

FA. C.Mortlock 20/Aug/1969

Ticklists

100 best limestone climbs in Britain

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UserDateNotes
Kev Little 6 May Show βeta
βeta: Climbed straight up the corner, would say about E1 5a, looks chossy in the top half but actually more pleasant than it looks
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbed straight up the corner, would say about E1 5a, looks chossy in the top half but actually more pleasant than it looks
Mark Morris 23 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Seconded this on Sat 21st May 2005. Split it into 2 pitches at the ledges. 1st Pitch good, as are the moves out right to continue on the 2nd, after that it has become a pile of muddy, loose rubbish! Wouldn't recommend it to anyone. Serious possibility of large rockfall from 3/4 of way up. Mark
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Seconded this on Sat 21st May 2005. Split it into 2 pitches at the ledges. 1st Pitch good, as are the moves out right to continue on the 2nd, after that it has become a pile of muddy, loose rubbish! Wouldn't recommend it to anyone. Serious possibility of large rockfall from 3/4 of way up. Mark
PontiusPirate 7 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed it August 2004. Although the grade remains (roughly) the same, the upper section of the route is still loose, dirty and serious. We had to exit rightwards from the top of the groove via muddy cracks as the left-hand exit consisted of stacked loose blocks.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbed it August 2004. Although the grade remains (roughly) the same, the upper section of the route is still loose, dirty and serious. We had to exit rightwards from the top of the groove via muddy cracks as the left-hand exit consisted of stacked loose blocks.
O. C. Curmudgeon 16 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The flake fell down a number of years ago. It was not there in May 2001.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The flake fell down a number of years ago. It was not there in May 2001.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 10 Sep Lead O/S
Jonathan Richardson 10 Sep 2nd O/S
The Grist 2 Sep 2nd
tim whitaker 2 Sep Lead Done as an escape, given E1 5a in the definitive guide, which felt closer the mark than VS
Done as an escape, given E1 5a in the definitive guide, which felt closer the mark than VS
Kev Little 5 May Lead O/S
with aiyer
with aiyer
aiyer 5 May 2nd This is now a new route going at E1 in the guide book. Bit crumbly in places - not MC's finest...
This is now a new route going at E1 in the guide book. Bit crumbly in places - not MC's finest...
Ursula 9 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S
with Lyndsey
with Lyndsey
Hidden 28 May, 2018 2nd
Moses 28 May, 2018 2nd O/S
JdotP 28 May, 2018 Lead O/S
with Crazy Dave
with Crazy Dave
rashwell 1 Jan, 2018 Lead
Harry Martin ??, 2018 Lead
with new route
with new route
NinaR 27 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S
with Trevor Wilson
with Trevor Wilson
Hidden 29 May, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 Apr, 2017 Lead
Hidden 16 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
Si Clapham ??, 2017 -
Hidden 8 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Moritz L 9 Jun, 2016 2nd O/S
with Dan0Me
with Dan0Me
Dan0Me 9 Jun, 2016 Lead Worst route I've ever done at Pembroke
Worst route I've ever done at Pembroke
Avon Man 28 May, 2016 Lead O/S
with Derek
with Derek
Mike Roger ??, 2016 -
spidermonkey ??, 2016 - Not as loose as many say. Nice enough climbing too. I came eye to eye with a seagull sat half way up, both near scared each other to death
Not as loose as many say. Nice enough climbing too. I came eye to eye with a seagull sat half way up, both near scared each other to death
The Grist 16 Aug, 2015 2nd
Hidden 16 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
mynyddresident 27 Jul, 2015 2nd
with KP
with KP
Hidden 20 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2015 -
Hidden 20 Sep, 2014 2nd
mossrug 9 Jun, 2014 -
with tony penning
with tony penning
tobydunford 27 May, 2014 2nd O/S
with Harry Martin
with Harry Martin
Brannock 19 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Pero 11 Sep, 2013 Lead
Shaw Brown 25 Aug, 2013 2nd Did this to escape a rising tide, our 1995 rock fax giving it 3 stars. After reading this UKC log I realise it fell down shortly after the guide was published. Still pretty unstable even after all these years.
with loz01
Did this to escape a rising tide, our 1995 rock fax giving it 3 stars. After reading this UKC log I realise it fell down shortly after the guide was published. Still pretty unstable even after all these years.
with loz01
Dilwat 27 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S This climb has clearly fallen down. The guide book description bares no resemblance to what is in front of you. Also be careful in the top section. It all looks decidedly dodgy.
This climb has clearly fallen down. The guide book description bares no resemblance to what is in front of you. Also be careful in the top section. It all looks decidedly dodgy.
nickdonohue 27 Jul, 2013 2nd Started out as attempt on Crithmum, Ian ended finishing up Necropolis. We struggled to find the right line (and match lines to the guidebook) and later found out the Crithmum flake had fallen off.
with Dilwat
Started out as attempt on Crithmum, Ian ended finishing up Necropolis. We struggled to find the right line (and match lines to the guidebook) and later found out the Crithmum flake had fallen off.
with Dilwat
Julie Carroll 26 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
with Sol Fernandez
with Sol Fernandez
arose 23 Apr, 2013 AltLd 2 pitches
2 pitches
HannahFrancis 23 Apr, 2013 AltLd
with arose
with arose
Hidden ??, 2013 -
msoldn 14 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S Blocky looseness distracts from the pleasure of the climbing, not recommended.
with Edwin
Blocky looseness distracts from the pleasure of the climbing, not recommended.
with Edwin
nuts and bolts ?Sep, 2012 -
JHiley 11 Mar, 2012 TR
Polly4 ??, 2012 -
keith leonard ??, 2012 -
PAJames ??, 2012 -
Hidden 18 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
garethsteel 18 Oct, 2011 2nd O/S
Mr Sparkle 29 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S This route is VERY loose, more rock fall has made it unpleasant and effectively CLOSED for climbing!
with Liam Byrne
This route is VERY loose, more rock fall has made it unpleasant and effectively CLOSED for climbing!
with Liam Byrne
Will Horton 22 Jun, 2011 2nd O/S Good climb, a little scary and in parts and a fair amount of loose rock in the upper section... at some parts of the climb good balance is handy along with body tention :)
with Tom Horton
Good climb, a little scary and in parts and a fair amount of loose rock in the upper section... at some parts of the climb good balance is handy along with body tention :)
with Tom Horton
TM_Horton 22 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S all in all an enjoyable outing ... good gear throughout bit of loose stuff at around 3/4 hight but otherwise pretty fun.
with will
all in all an enjoyable outing ... good gear throughout bit of loose stuff at around 3/4 hight but otherwise pretty fun.
with will
pebbles 31 May, 2011 2nd after backing off lead as couldnt find good gear to protect mantle
after backing off lead as couldnt find good gear to protect mantle
themadbrown 8 May, 2011 2nd dog Cold hands=cold fingers= horrid top section.Birds nesting deep in a couple o the cracks
Cold hands=cold fingers= horrid top section.Birds nesting deep in a couple o the cracks
Jams Crwca 8 May, 2011 Lead
Dibdawg 28 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S
with Mark Sheridan
with Mark Sheridan
Rick Dunning ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 Lead
Jams Crwca 31 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
with pete
with pete
Hidden ?May, 2010 Lead
Seymore Butt ??, 2010 Lead
Hidden 22 Aug, 2009 Lead
Fat Tim 21 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S A loose middle section made this slightly harrowing.
with Mark kauntz
A loose middle section made this slightly harrowing.
with Mark kauntz
Hidden ?Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
haydng 30 Jul, 2009 2nd O/S Definitely not 3* anymore, loose rock and maybe only 1* for the bottom section.
with Dave
Definitely not 3* anymore, loose rock and maybe only 1* for the bottom section.
with Dave
Hidden 26 Jul, 2009 2nd
OffshoreAndy 26 May, 2009 Lead O/S Epic!
with Jade
Epic!
with Jade
gripped01 ?May, 2009 2nd
with Jim Jarvis
with Jim Jarvis
Kenemo ??, 2009 -
innes ??, 2009 Lead O/S
with Ruth
with Ruth
dts 30 May, 2008 2nd O/S
with ajtay
with ajtay
ajtay 30 May, 2008 Lead
Julian Wedd ??, 2008 Lead
with A. Howarth
with A. Howarth
Sarahcrowsley ?Oct, 2007 Lead
Mark Davies PK 12 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S The flake has gone on this route leaving a dirty and loose groove. Its not too bad if you are careful and i guess will clean up in time but i would give it HVS 5a and 1 star at most.
with Beesley
The flake has gone on this route leaving a dirty and loose groove. Its not too bad if you are careful and i guess will clean up in time but i would give it HVS 5a and 1 star at most.
with Beesley
Hidden 7 Jun, 2007 2nd O/S
cem 5 May, 2007 2nd
with GrahamD
with GrahamD
Hidden 4 Apr, 2007 2nd O/S
Hidden 4 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Apr, 2007 AltLd
Stone Muppet ??, 2007 -
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
Ramon Marin 9 Sep, 2006 Lead O/S
with Dave Reaney
with Dave Reaney
Hidden 7 Sep, 2006 Lead O/S
michael burrows 7 Sep, 2006 2nd and mike doyle,has since had a rockfall june 2008 and is now E2 5b!!
and mike doyle,has since had a rockfall june 2008 and is now E2 5b!!
colin milton 23 Aug, 2006 Lead
with fenclimb
with fenclimb
Hidden 23 Aug, 2006 2nd O/S
a_radiohead_fan ?Aug, 2006 -
david morse ?Aug, 2006 2nd
with rampant
with rampant
beanfingers 26 Feb, 2006 Lead O/S first piece of kit went in 25ft up cos i was having so much fun
with jeremie
first piece of kit went in 25ft up cos i was having so much fun
with jeremie
Hidden ??, 2006 Lead O/S
Geoffers ?Oct, 2005 2nd O/S
with Tim
with Tim
Wil Treasure ??, 2005 Lead
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 -
sara n 18 Sep, 2004 Lead O/S
with John Brooks
with John Brooks
sara n 18 Sep, 2004 Lead O/S
with John Brooks
with John Brooks
Ratfeeder 7 Sep, 2004 2nd O/S
with Phil
with Phil
Hidden ?Aug, 2004 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 7 Jun, 2004 Lead O/S After it had fallen down!
After it had fallen down!
Ally Smith ??, 2004 Lead O/S Date is a guess
Date is a guess
al99 ?Sep, 2003 2nd O/S
with Sam Ponsford
with Sam Ponsford
duncana 4 May, 2003 2nd 3 stars? Lots of loose rock (although I put it back after grabbing at it!).
with Pippa Archer
3 stars? Lots of loose rock (although I put it back after grabbing at it!).
with Pippa Archer
cornishben ??, 2003 Lead O/S
with Edouard Vincent
with Edouard Vincent
Hidden 3 Jun, 2002 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2001 -
Boxy 24 Aug, 2000 Lead O/S
with Aus
with Aus
Hidden 16 Jul, 2000 Lead
Hidden 16 Jul, 2000 Lead
Marti999 ??, 2000 Lead
Rock Fairy ?Aug, 1998 2nd
Ched ??, 1998 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
with Glanfor
Hidden ??, 1997 Lead O/S
craig h 13 Sep, 1996 2nd O/S
with Janet Hannah
with Janet Hannah
Hidden 22 Aug, 1996 Lead O/S
five ?Aug, 1996 Lead O/S
with JC
with JC
Colin Edwards ?Aug, 1996 Lead
mikej 27 Apr, 1996 Lead
with Nick Salmon
with Nick Salmon
Iain Brown 3 Apr, 1996 -
with Phil, Ricardo
with Phil, Ricardo
Colin Edwards ?Aug, 1995 Lead O/S
Colin Edwards ??, 1995 Lead O/S
Hidden 14 Apr, 1994 2nd
Alan Scowcroft ??, 1994 2nd
jfletcher 14 Jun, 1992 Solo O/S
lithos ?Apr, 1992 Lead
with john byrne
with john byrne
Hidden ??, 1990 Lead O/S
Darron ??, 1990 -
Hidden 13 Nov, 1989 Lead
Jelly Mould Surfer 28 Aug, 1989 Lead O/S Before a rockfall - probably VS when I did it
Before a rockfall - probably VS when I did it
Nick Biven 2 Jun, 1989 Lead
Andy Say 27 May, 1989 2nd
Hidden 13 May, 1989 Lead
Tony Buckley ?Jan, 1989 -
with Robert Clark
with Robert Clark
RichardMc 29 Aug, 1988 2nd
with Daphne Pritchard
with Daphne Pritchard
BigHairyIan 8 Apr, 1988 Lead O/S
with Little Dean (Dean Gibbs)
with Little Dean (Dean Gibbs)
William Robertson ??, 1988 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Neil R 29 Aug, 1987 Lead
with Sharon
with Sharon
Hidden 27 Jul, 1987 Lead
andy tetsill ?Jul, 1987 Lead
with Joy
with Joy
hazeysunshine ?Jun, 1986 AltLd O/S
with Phil, Jane
with Phil, Jane
Robmwatt ??, 1986 Lead
with Gaz Morgan
with Gaz Morgan
Hidden ??, 1985 -
Martin Bennett 2 Nov, 1983 -
with RA
with RA
Nigel Coe 29 Aug, 1983 Lead
with Pete Oxley
with Pete Oxley
neilh ?Apr, 1980 2nd
scott titt ??, 1980 -
DonnyDave 10 Aug, 1979 2nd
with Ian Freebie
with Ian Freebie
Rick51 15 Apr, 1979 2nd
Steve Lewis 25 Sep, 1978 Lead O/S
with Morty
with Morty
Hidden 6 Aug, 1976 Lead
10 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 26
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Not Set