Rockfax Description
The original route of the buttress which follows a great line. Its best bits now feature in other routes but it is still worthwhile. The Snake finish is even better and still only E2 5c.
1) 4b, 25m. As for One Step... (page 244 ).
2) 5c, 25m. Move up and right (as for Diadic) but continue rightwards on the lip of a roof. A short stiff pull over a roof as for Weaver leads to a small ledge on the lip. Break right up the steep groove of Cream, which leads to the Vector cave stance.
3) 4b, 10m. Continue along the same diagonal line past the spike belay of Cream and continue right to the sloping ledge stance on Void. Either keep going to a tree in the gully and abseil off, or belay and continue up The Snake. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck.

spidermonkey09 25/Aug/17 AltLd

P2. Absolutely phenomenal climbing! Big holds, stonking gear, amazing moves, outrageous exposure. Gibbering about how good it was at the belay.

Steven1993 25/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Lead P3. P2 was fantastic.

with SamN, Jim
SamN 25/Aug/17 AltLd β

Led P1, 2nd for the rest. Interesting time fitting three in the cave.

rachelpearce01 22/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
George_Surf 22/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

The crag was soaked! P1 up one step was mega grease. P2 (dry luckily) across the vector wall is good, easy climbing leads to the big ledge. A couple of hard 5c moves up the steep part of the groove on to the slab then to the vector cave. P3 is alright, exposed!

tprebs 01/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

into Snake

with Darren
shed_hed 01/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Seconded these pitches as part of the Nimbus-Snake connection. Some really cool moves going through the steepness after the junction with Weaver.

Jan.Hrb 13/May/17 AltLd
with Ales
Hidden 30/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
Misha 30/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

Sam led the main pitch and on to the Snake stance. He stepped round into Cream as per the line in the RF, that was logical but meant the crux was on Cream. [However looking at other guide books that may have been the correct line? Not clear!] I finished up Snake.

with Sam
jezb1 14/Feb/17 Lead

Good fun :) exposed but steady apart from the crux which I thought was quite cheeky.

LauraGoodchild 14/Feb/17 2nd
Hidden ??/2017 -
Hidden ??/2017 -
Hidden 20/Nov/16 AltLd
Flavio 20/Nov/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/16 2nd rpt
adie84 07/Aug/16 -
Emily C 13/Mar/16 AltLd
with Jon
jonleighton 13/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Did Nimbus / Snake Connection as in the North Wales Rock guidebook. Lead P2 and P4. It gets 6a in the guide but I think 5c is probably fair. Did anyone find an approach shoe around the base of this route yesterday (Sunday 13th March)? My approach shoes went walkies and I only found one of them :(

crossleysm ??/2016 -
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
guy757 27/Aug/15 -
jacob shieldhouse hadley 30/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/15 Lead O/S
guy757 25/Jul/15 -
Owain Llewelyn 19/Apr/15 AltLd
with Gareth E
Hidden ??/2015 -
FATBOYFAT ??/2015 -
Hidden 04/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 28/May/14 2nd
with Sam Townsend, Rennie
samt 28/May/14 2nd O/S

Ian led both pitches. Then I led the last pitch of Grim Wall Direct to top out

with Ian Renshaw, Dave Musgrove
Dave Almond 12/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Not so sunny but nice route. Managed to stay on route this time and not wonder off on to the Weaver.

mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden 04/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
steveghalifax ?/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

John led the hard pitch

with John
Hidden 14/Aug/12 2nd
dan ely 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S

finished up the snake

with steve
simonp ??/2012 Lead O/S
Cailean Harker ??/2012 -
knicos 07/Nov/11 AltLd dnf

DNF due to lack of daylight and late start. Did first 3 pitches.

with Sam Taylor
Luke Brooks 15/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Liam did 5b variant P1, I lead 2+3 together.

with Liam
Hidden 10/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
tonanf ?/May/11 Lead
with j
Hidden 26/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Tim Sparrow ??/2011 -
C Mclean 03/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with Samual Tolhurst
beci tointen ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with my uncle carl
Ed Babs 14/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

P2 + 3, snake connection

with Harry
Hidden ?/Jun/10 -
halfmanhalfbiscuit ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
zero six ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Mar/10 -
simeclimb68 ??/2010 -
mr mills ??/2010 -
with joe chorley
Hidden ??/2010 -
Dave Almond 25/Jul/09 AltLd

off route pitch 2

NeilGriffiths 12/Jul/09 -

Wrong on pitch 2. Snake 6a finish superb

with Dave Almond
Hidden 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Mar/09 2nd dog
barni 05/Mar/09 AltLd O/S

2nd and 3rd

with ronnie
lost.arrow 08/Jun/08 -
Marcus ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
RossG123 ??/2008 AltLd
joe larner 26/Oct/07 AltLd O/S

led p1+3. Finished up the Snake which made a fun link up.

Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Ed Booth 20/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
with will sim
Adam Booth 20/Aug/06 2nd O/S
with Will Sim, Ed Booth
ritchierich 25/May/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
IOAN D ?/May/05 2nd
with Mills
nicholas Barrowclough ?/Jun/04 Lead
pete johnson ?/Mar/03 Lead
with Lun
akhughes ?/Sep/02 Lead
Shaw Brown ??/2002 2nd
with David Menadue
Tim M ??/2001 Lead O/S
with Conroy
Hidden ??/1999 AltLd O/S
Roget 23/May/98 Lead O/S
with jon
Joe Solo 01/May/97 Lead O/S
with jed and tony
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden 24/Mar/96 AltLd
PaulTclimbing ?/Aug/95 Lead O/S
with PhilK, Neville, Woko, NG
PaulTclimbing ?/Aug/95 Lead O/S
with PhilK, Neville, Woko, NG
Hidden ??/1995 -
rob.grafton ??/1995 Lead
with Ben, Bruce
Budge ??/1995 AltLd O/S
frost ?/May/94 Lead
Dave Musgrove 04/Apr/94 AltLd

David led big traverse pitch.

with David
Dave Musgrove Jnr 04/Apr/94 Lead
with Dad
steve taylor ??/1994 -
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Derek Ryden ?/Jun/91 AltLd O/S
with Andy Turner
Hidden ??/1990 -
Paul Clarke ??/1990 AltLd
with Unsure
Seymore Butt ??/1990 Lead
with Spuz
michael burrows 10/Jul/88 AltLd O/S

led 3rd pitch

with pete roberts
Hidden 30/Apr/88 2nd
Hidden 30/Apr/88 Lead
Paula Hamilton-Gibson 03/Apr/88 AltLd
with Bill Williamson
Hidden 17/Sep/87 Lead
Hidden 26/Aug/87 AltLd rpt
Hidden 25/Jul/87 AltLd
sadams 10/Apr/87 AltLd O/S

did main pitch

with Guy Townsend
ewar woowar ??/1987 -
John Marsland 28/Sep/86 2nd
with Eduardo Martinez
Steve Crowe 28/Sep/86 AltLd O/S
Eduardo Martinez 18/Sep/86 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/86 AltLd
Alan James - UKC and UKH 17/Sep/85 AltLd
with Brian Harley
Neil McA 18/Jun/85 2nd rpt
with Roy Ruddle
Hammy 12/Jun/85 Lead
with Colin Struthers
mitch1960 ??/1985 Lead
with Alan Dance
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1985 Lead
with Duncan Bond
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1985 -
stp ?/Sep/84 Solo rpt
AlanLittle 20/Jun/84 Lead
with Carl Blakeley
keefe 19/Apr/84 -
Melok 16/Apr/84 AltLd

Hefo tom

Dave Turnbull 11/Mar/84 Lead
with Jim Thomas
Robmwatt ??/1984 -
steveboote ??/1983 Lead
with French Patric
andy gittins ??/1982 -
Nic Robinson 31/Oct/81 Lead O/S
Neil McA 27/Jun/81 2nd
with Aussie Pete
Andy Stephenson 20/Apr/81 AltLd O/S

Chris led the hard pitch; not that it helps as it's a traverse! No problems.

with Chris Plant
duncan ?/Sep/80 Lead
Andy Nicholson ?/Jun/80 AltLd O/S
with Spike
Ian Jones ??/1980 Lead rpt

No problemo.

with Mike Wright
daviesxxx ??/1980 -
Mike Owen 16/Sep/78 2nd rpt
with Pete Craig, Phil Ralph
Ian Jones ??/1978 2nd O/S

Felt fine.

with Dave Greenald
Steve Bell ??/1978 -
kjacks ??/1978 Lead

Used the peg in the groove, took ages and was knackered afterwards

Mike Owen 15/Oct/77 Lead rpt
with John Roberts
Steve Lewis 08/Oct/77 2nd
with sharpie
Mike Owen 07/Aug/77 Lead rpt
with Brian Jones
Marcus ??/1977 -
with Pete Sutton
Hidden 15/May/76 Lead
Mike Owen 28/Feb/76 Lead O/S
with John Roberts
Bolt Phobia 13/Feb/76 AltLd
with Dave Williams
gwedgwood ??/1975 2nd O/S
with Martin Sharples
uphillnow ??/1975 2nd

Lead on numerous occasions since

with Nigel Helliwell
petemeads ??/1975 Lead
granitbahn ??/1975 AltLd
mikej 22/Apr/68 Lead
with John Given, Keith Johnson
Hidden 07/Sep/66 AltLd
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 14
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 10
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set