Rockfax Description
The wall just left of the through cave. Climb cracks in the wall to a triangular niche (historical belay). Move right out of this and follow more cracks to the top. © Rockfax

FA. L.Noble 31.12.68 31/Dec/1968

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe, Pembroke VDiff-HVS.

Andrew Sloan 06/Oct/17 2nd O/S

Lovely route. Solid VS.

with pete 06/Oct/17 AltLd O/S

Definately VS

with Marty Wall
JackSewell1997 25/Sep/17 Lead O/S
with Michael
Hidden 28/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Simon Caldwell 28/Aug/17 2nd O/S

About HS 4b if you bridge

with Carmen
Tim Sparrow 25/Aug/17 Lead

Climbed on single 9 as Ian left his rope on top ..... intending to do another route!

with Ian Armstrong
Steve Clegg 22/Aug/17 AltLd

Failed to lead first pitch

with Graham T
john max 13/Aug/17 Lead
with Jen Maxfield
Lessworkmoreclimbing 13/Aug/17 2nd
with Kev
fizzychewitt 12/Aug/17 Lead
with Jayne
Roget 10/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with jon
DanChad 09/Aug/17 2nd O/S
Chris Murray 09/Aug/17 Lead
Elizabeth Allen 07/Aug/17 2nd O/S
with Luke
Luke90 07/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Wired guides have it about right at VS. Severe is nonsense.

with Liz
Matt Harle 06/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Dad
MJHarle 05/Aug/17 -
with Matt
Nathan Chrismas ?/Aug/17 2nd O/S
with Nick B
dmorgan27 18/Jul/17 Lead

Hard for severe, especially at the start.

Hidden 05/Jul/17 2nd O/S
CameronH 26/Jun/17 Lead rpt
with Holly Rowland
danjouan 17/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Pleasingly thuggy start. Awesome thread protection the whole way up. Probably agree with the current wired guide grade of VS.

with Pedro
CarlaJG 27/May/17 2nd

So confused about the grading of this... says VS in the wired guide... is this a typo? Doesn't feel Severe as suggested by Rockfax.

franhammond92 27/May/17 Lead

Found the start pretty hard and with less than amazing gear. Once I got halfway (it took a while) I realised that there were actually jugs everywhere and and it was really rather good fun.

Hidden 21/May/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/May/17 -
C@rwyn 19/May/17 Lead O/S
with Flo
Hidden 19/May/17 2nd
luke glaister 14/May/17 2nd rpt
with Ed Atkinson , casey johns
davehopes 22/Apr/17 Lead dog
George Killaspy 22/Apr/17 2nd O/S
K Mckay 19/Apr/17 2nd O/S
catrin289 17/Apr/17 2nd O/S
with Liz
Dizz 17/Apr/17 Lead O/S
net 16/Apr/17 2nd
with George
Hidden 16/Apr/17 Lead O/S
BarbsMurray 15/Apr/17 AltLd
with Paul
pauldrew 15/Apr/17 AltLd
mcrispin ?/Mar/17 Lead G/U
with Jason payne
megdc ??/2017 -
with FelixL
Hidden ??/2017 2nd β
Hidden 02/Oct/16 2nd O/S
George_Surf 21/Sep/16 Lead

Got chatting to and old guy at the top and he was telling us he was the first person to climb here and named it mother Carey's after the birds here (mother Carey's hens). Turned out it was Jim Perrin! Seemed harder than severe. Pretty steep and a bit runout

rachelpearce01 21/Sep/16 2nd O/S
Nigel Coe 04/Sep/16 2nd
with Pete Kelly
Hidden 04/Sep/16 2nd
edgar_spaten 04/Sep/16 2nd
with Tobi
LDudill 03/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Sandbag at severe... I would agree with VS...

with Bea, Kelly campbell
Mr. K 29/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Bryn Wood
Hidden 29/Aug/16 2nd
Hidden 29/Aug/16 -
FelixL 29/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Such a unusual enjoyable climb. The gear is good but the awkward and quite commiting climb feels quite rough for a severe. The twin crack on the first pitch should get a technical grade around 4a. Being confident few grades above helps!

with Megan
Happy Wanderer 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Mike D
MD 06/Aug/16 2nd

At least HS 4b

with Jo
Hidden 18/Jul/16 2nd
Hidden 04/Jul/16 Lead
John Bunney 04/Jul/16 Lead
with Charlie
charlietorrance 04/Jul/16 2nd O/S
mapperley samurai 03/Jul/16 2nd
with Andy Hemsted
amccann 09/Jun/16 Solo O/S
with Dom
CRead 05/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Ben1983 31/May/16 Lead O/S
pimpy 29/May/16 2nd
with clare muir
Alex Whitmore 28/May/16 Lead O/S
hutchay 28/May/16 2nd
with Matt Hutch, Alex Whitmore
Blackgoby 24/May/16 Lead O/S

Spectacular ab in and good long climb out. Plenty of rests and gear. The weather was good too!

with Tracey
dmorgan27 ?/May/16 2nd
gingernick ?/May/16 Lead O/S


with Darrell
Loubear 30/Apr/16 2nd
with Jason
Hidden ?/Mar/16 -
Hidden 01/Nov/15 Lead O/S
AnitaClimb 01/Nov/15 2nd
with Jennie, Spooner , Sammy , Francis
andy dunn 31/Oct/15 Lead
with Claire
Claireybloomers 31/Oct/15 2nd dog
with Andy
Hidden 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S
gurumed 27/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Brian H
GridNorth 09/Sep/15 Lead

Did this after forgetting to bring one of the ropes to do Straight Gate. Doh. Felt tough for Severe IMO.

with Martin Lancaster
Kizzy 01/Sep/15 -
Palindrome 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Stanners 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Went up this after deciding inner space was for another day. First pitch seemed stiff for Severe!

with Andy G
Hidden ?/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
mjeffery 17/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Steve
james1978 08/Jun/15 Lead
staceyjg 27/May/15 2nd RP

Severe???? I don't know what planet this gets a severe on!!! I'm comfortable leading most vs and I backed off this route and my partner had to lead it! Whether it's just tricky for the short, but this has been upgraded in the latest CC guide ok to VS

bobstones 24/May/15 Lead O/S

There's a tricky section that's quite bold before getting to the niche other wise a straightforward enjoyable route.

Hidden 23/May/15 2nd O/S
bigie bob 23/May/15 2nd O/S
steve-grigg 23/May/15 Lead
Flavio 22/May/15 2nd O/S
SEDaniels 01/May/15 2nd O/S
M_Robinson 01/May/15 Lead O/S
casey johns 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
luke glaister 18/Apr/15 2nd O/S

No way a severe. A vs start and h's finish. Brilliant route. I'd easy give 2 of my **s to it.

Hidden 16/Apr/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/15 Solo O/S
Vnockles 06/Apr/15 2nd O/S

Definately more of a VS

with David Brock, Ian Faulkner
ian d f 06/Apr/15 2nd rpt
with Tor, David Brock
onlyfoddington 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S

I made a bit of a meal of it, and sweated a lot, and bloodied my knee. VS 4c in the climbers club guide.

with Tor, Ian
Hidden 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Ollie B 04/Apr/15 Solo O/S
with Robyn
Hidden ?/Apr/15 Lead
Hidden 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jan/15 2nd β
matt.woodfield 06/Jan/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 Solo
Bob M 08/Sep/14 AltLd

New CC guide has this as VS 4c which is more realistic.

brian watson 08/Sep/14 AltLd
PilarMartinez 08/Sep/14 -

Wouldn't say is a Severe. Some hard moves at the beginning. The crag at the top is worth giving it a go instead of exiting on the right where seems everyone goes as the rock is worn out.

nuts and bolts ?/Sep/14 -
AdamCB 19/Aug/14 Lead
Andy Chubb 09/Aug/14 2nd O/S

I'd say this is worth VS. It's only 4b climbing but in a serious situation and could blow the mind of a severe leader. Great route though.

with Nick Gregory
leon 06/Aug/14 Lead O/S

i guess i should have expected some hand jamming...

fabricio 06/Aug/14 2nd
with leon
JClimb 03/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Rick Sewards
Richard P Coates 21/Jul/14 2nd O/S
elCapitano 21/Jul/14 Lead
with Coatesy
Eoinparker 18/Jul/14 2nd O/S
HassenBali 18/Jul/14 Lead O/S
erica 11/Jul/14 2nd
with John
John Brayshaw 11/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Erica
Hidden 05/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Spillers 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Nathan Kitcher
CameronH 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Phil Glass
Helen Gibson 19/Jun/14 Lead
mossrug 09/Jun/14 -
with tony penning
chappers909 05/Jun/14 Lead
with Dan Geh
Dan Geh 05/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Paddy, Will
John Pickles 30/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/14 2nd
AndrewP 27/May/14 2nd O/S

I'd give this HS 4b.

FelixPeterken 27/May/14 Lead O/S

Definitely harder than s, some awkward jamming moves lower down

with AndrewP
Hidden 24/May/14 Lead O/S
John Brayshaw 02/May/14 Lead O/S
with Erica
erica 02/May/14 2nd
with John
SJS 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Nick
Nick Russell 12/Apr/14 2nd

An entertaining route. Borderline HS/VS.

Roo123 09/Apr/14 2nd

Drenched through whilst belaying..

AnnMarie3 24/Sep/13 AltLd
Calder 20/Sep/13 2nd

Big thank you to the guys who chucked me a rope after Rich broke his ankle - I really didn't fancy prussicking out!

Pero 11/Sep/13 Lead
Wilbur 09/Sep/13 2nd O/S

Severe. Err no. Harder than diedre sud to name but one example

with Paul Winder
Hidden 09/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Elliott90 ?/Sep/13 2nd
with Rhys Treharne
stevelismore 26/Aug/13 2nd
with James L
Hidden 26/Aug/13 2nd O/S
AMJ098 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Fran coles
Hidden 26/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 25/Aug/13 2nd O/S
jsw1 25/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Did this after doing Sea Groove nearby, which is a VS 4b. This route is harder than that and should be graded as such. The twin cracks near the bottom are quite stiff for any Severe leader. Once you have abseiled down to do it you need to be able to climb back out or you are in for a swim, so I would recommend only for those confident at HS 4b or above. Absolutely great route though, the moves out of the niche had me laughing out loud to myself, great fun.

with Steve Lyon
UnkArl 24/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Matt
Hidden 11/Aug/13 AltLd
m675bowsl 09/Aug/13 Lead O/S
SianD 09/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Dr Toph 26/Jun/13 Solo O/S
KDhruev 24/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Katie
Julie Carroll 26/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Sol Fernandez
arose 23/Apr/13 Lead

Had to go back up for the other rope! Great route

Tightsgirl 23/Apr/13 2nd
duncan 05/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 05/Apr/13 Lead
jcw ??/2013 -
Hidden 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
gjd 24/Sep/12 2nd O/S

One of the toughest and best severes I've ever done. Surely worth more than one star?

with Mark V
Graham Westbrook 03/Sep/12 2nd
Stefan_Morris 03/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Dickon Morris
JamesColeman ?/Sep/12 TR O/S

top rope solo

nuts and bolts ?/Sep/12 -
stephenarnold 11/Aug/12 2nd O/S
mattkemp70 ?/Aug/12 Lead
with Westy
Hidden 07/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden 04/Jul/12 2nd O/S
The_Boy_ODwyer 04/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Colin Harvey
Dan Lane 25/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Severe my arse! This felt harder than the VS to the left!

Brian Moseley 25/Jun/12 2nd O/S
BenedictIEP 25/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Alex Munnery 23/May/12 2nd O/S
with NathanW
erbridger 22/May/12 Lead
steven 16/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Paul Horabin
paul horabin 16/May/12 AltLd O/S
Rachel Slater 04/May/12 AltLd O/S

lead p2 but accidently strayed onto the vs to the left.

Olli-C 04/May/12 AltLd

Hardest Severe ever. Rachel lead the VS for the second pitch, this was much nicer and much easier.

NathanW ?/May/12 Lead O/S
andy dunn 07/Apr/12 2nd
with Big Ben
Rhydian Evans 02/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Adam Coles ?/Apr/12 Lead
with ben1987
ben1987 ?/Apr/12 -
Jimboandrews. 12/Mar/12 -
Adam Coles ??/2012 Lead O/S
RosiePalmer 13/Dec/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Oct/11 Lead O/S
garethsteel 18/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Adam Booth 23/Sep/11 Lead O/S


Ellen Cobby 23/Sep/11 2nd dog
Hidden 15/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Chris_Mullaney ?/Sep/11 Lead dog
James Oswald 31/Aug/11 2nd O/S

The longest belay of my life. Ever. But Chris got it eventually! Keeping to the right hand crack is nice and feels about VS.

with Chris Mullaney, Kyle Wood
Hidden 30/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/11 2nd O/S
will9911 30/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Mr Sparkle 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Liam Byrne
Chris_Mullaney 28/Aug/11 Lead
with Mr. K
Mr. K 28/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Stone Muppet 28/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 25/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/11 2nd
Graeme Hammond 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/11 2nd
Phil PBC 26/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with henry castle
dj hannaford 20/Jun/11 2nd O/S

was chucking it down, however a truely amazing climb

with pablo thourne, Tom colquhoun
tim20 09/Jun/11 Lead
with pabs
Will Hunt 01/May/11 Lead O/S
johnpuddephatt 01/May/11 2nd O/S

Stiff for the grade. Felt like HS. Seconded in trainers.

Hidden 24/Apr/11 2nd rpt
prwalker 24/Apr/11 Lead

Pumpy but brilliant route.

with Ali Hutton
EmilyElouise 20/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
tobydunford 05/Sep/10 Lead O/S
ksjs 01/Sep/10 2nd O/S


with phil
ezclimber 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with matthew ch
Hidden 28/Aug/10 2nd O/S
RagingPuffin 22/Aug/10 Solo O/S
ben47h 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Leelogs 14/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with SCC
Hidden 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Macca9999 10/Aug/10 Lead
john_ohlsson 10/Aug/10 Lead O/S

done in 2 pitches bommers gear

andy dunn 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

cool line on steeper ground than you'd usually expect given the grade.

with Alan
Macca9999 04/Aug/10 2nd
john_ohlsson 04/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S
RachelP 28/Jul/10 Lead

Swian, Alis, Niamh

with AAC
siwclimber 28/Jul/10 2nd

very big rocks need seagul bashers (hex's) and plenty of slings.

with Rachel
Hidden 26/Jul/10 2nd O/S
garethb 02/Jul/10 Lead
with cheque
Hidden 02/Jul/10 2nd O/S
martinp 11/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with PaulR
Edd Reed 02/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Donna Mawson
Julian Prieto 30/May/10 Lead O/S
with Ollie Dorrell
cliffy 30/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/May/10 TR O/S
JonBrown 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Sion
Helen Gibson 14/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Richard
brockers ?/Apr/10 -
Hidden ?/Apr/10 -
ian d f 17/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Grace Chuchla
Macca9999 23/Jan/10 Lead
cymjt ??/2010 -
pembrokeshirecaver 10/Sep/09 Lead O/S

blatantly HS

Skinny Kin 29/Aug/09 2nd O/S

Some exposure near the top. Quite decent for a severe. Plenty enough gear. Not quite a 3 star route to me.

with Pete White
Peter White 29/Aug/09 Lead
Peter White 29/Aug/09 2nd
with Robin Sillen
AndrewShanks 29/Aug/09 Lead RP
with Steve Loft
Fat Tim 21/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Mark kauntz
Hidden ?/Aug/09 AltLd
Hidden 26/Jul/09 Lead
Ed morris 15/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with arthur
Little AndyH 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with maria thorpe
Alan James - UKC and UKH 05/Jun/09 2nd
Wil Treasure 25/May/09 Lead
chiverstom 25/May/09 2nd O/S
Bux 10/May/09 Lead O/S
with Ruth Bevan
Chris the Tall 26/Sep/08 2nd

Used as an escape route when we couldn't get to Rock Idol. Nice route, but more like VS

with Dom Ske
Ybot Htulk 31/Aug/08 Lead
with Tom Dixon
thomasadixon 31/Aug/08 2nd O/S
climber130887 05/May/08 Lead O/S
Ben Griffiths 05/May/08 2nd O/S
with Jonathan Bull
Trisha Murphy 08/Apr/08 2nd O/S
d_meacher 08/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Wil Treasure ??/2008 Lead
Adam Booth ??/2008 Lead O/S

?what year

Hidden ??/2008 Lead β
Ali3735 ?/Oct/07 2nd O/S
with Andy M
Richard ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Carrie
Ann S 28/Aug/07 2nd

Bit stiff at this grade, unless we were on a wrong line!!

with John Carlin
Hidden 07/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/07 AltLd O/S
Stone Muppet ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
chris wyatt ??/2007 -
Hidden 30/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/06 Lead O/S
dan gibson 29/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with martina
chris j 25/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with James & Doug
tom_1985 ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Matt Davies
Andy Barwell ?/Jun/06 Lead
Jules_Robbo ?/Jun/06 2nd
with James Cross, Sarah Burkitt
Matty ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Carl Reilly
dan_o_b ?/May/06 AltLd O/S
alicia 30/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
with Tim Wilkinson
Tim W 30/Apr/06 2nd O/S
with alicia
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Sam and will 18/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Anthony Bennett + Ben Bennett
dicky79 ?/Aug/05 2nd O/S
with Vic Odell
ASchwirtz 08/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Marq 30/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Daniel Dennehy
ferdia 16/Jan/05 2nd
cem 28/Aug/04 2nd
with Liam Mark
Laramadness 30/Jul/04 2nd β
duncana 04/May/03 2nd

Nice belay. Saw a rabbit shoot up from top of climb after us!

with Pippa Archer
Hidden ?/Apr/03 2nd
cornishben ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Edouard Vincent
alan moore ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
John Southworth ?/May/99 Lead O/S
with Stone Elworthy
Hidden 24/Jun/98 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
Hidden ??/1997 Lead O/S
Martin Bennett 04/May/92 -
with Chris Bell, MT
Hidden 29/Jun/90 Lead
Hidden ??/1990 -
Andy Say 31/May/89 Solo O/S
Hidden 13/May/89 2nd
BigHairyIan 08/Apr/88 Lead O/S
with Little Dean (Dean Gibbs)
Will Webb ?/Jun/87 Lead
with Mark Cole
Jelly Mould Surfer ??/1987 Lead O/S
hazeysunshine ?/Jun/85 AltLd O/S
with Jo
mark-abz 08/Nov/80 2nd
with ?
Hidden ??/1980 -
Hidden 13/Apr/79 Solo
Steve Lewis 25/Sep/78 Lead O/S
with Morty
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High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Votes cast 71
Votes cast 63
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set