Rockfax Description
The wall just left of the through cave. Climb cracks in the wall to a triangular niche (historical belay). Move right out of this and follow more cracks to the top. © Rockfax

FA. L.Noble 31.12.68 31/Dec/1968

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe, Pembroke VDiff-HVS.

Hidden 02/Oct/16 2nd O/S
rachelpearce01 21/Sep/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/16 Lead
edgar_spaten 04/Sep/16 2nd
with Tobi
Nigel Coe 04/Sep/16 2nd
with Pete Kelly
Hidden 04/Sep/16 2nd
Hidden 03/Sep/16 Lead O/S
FelixL 29/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Such a unusual enjoyable climb. The gear is good but the awkward and quite commiting climb feels quite rough for a severe. The twin crack on the first pitch should get a technical grade around 4a. Being confident few grades above helps!

with Megan
Hidden 29/Aug/16 -
Hidden 29/Aug/16 2nd
Mr. K 29/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Bryn Wood
MD 06/Aug/16 2nd

At least HS 4b

with Jo
Happy Wanderer 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Mike D
Hidden 18/Jul/16 2nd
John Bunney 04/Jul/16 Lead
with Charlie
charlietorrance 04/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/16 Lead
mapperley samurai 03/Jul/16 2nd
with Andy Hemsted
amccann 09/Jun/16 Solo O/S
with Dom
CRead 05/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Ben1983 31/May/16 Lead O/S
pimpy 29/May/16 2nd
with clare muir
hutchay 28/May/16 2nd
with Matt Hutch, Alex Whitmore
Alex Whitmore 28/May/16 Lead O/S
Blackgoby 24/May/16 Lead O/S

Spectacular ab in and good long climb out. Plenty of rests and gear. The weather was good too!

with Tracey
gingernick ?/May/16 Lead O/S


with Darrell
Loubear 30/Apr/16 2nd
with Jason
Hidden ?/Mar/16 -
Hidden 01/Nov/15 2nd
Hidden 01/Nov/15 Lead O/S
Claireybloomers 31/Oct/15 2nd dog
with Andy
andy dunn 31/Oct/15 Lead
with Claire
gurumed 27/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Brian H
Hidden 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S
GridNorth 09/Sep/15 Lead

Did this after forgetting to bring one of the ropes to do Straight Gate. Doh. Felt tough for Severe IMO.

with Martin Lancaster
Kizzy 01/Sep/15 -
Palindrome 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Stanners 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Went up this after deciding inner space was for another day. First pitch seemed stiff for Severe!

with Andy G
Hidden ?/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
mjeffery 17/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Steve
james1978 08/Jun/15 Lead
staceyjg 27/May/15 2nd RP

Severe???? I don't know what planet this gets a severe on!!! I'm comfortable leading most vs and I backed off this route and my partner had to lead it! Whether it's just tricky for the short, but this has been upgraded in the latest CC guide ok to VS

bobstones 24/May/15 Lead O/S

There's a tricky section that's quite bold before getting to the niche other wise a straightforward enjoyable route.

Hidden 23/May/15 2nd O/S
steve-grigg 23/May/15 Lead
bigie bob 23/May/15 2nd O/S
FlavioL1989 22/May/15 2nd O/S
M_Robinson 01/May/15 Lead O/S
SEDaniels 01/May/15 2nd O/S
luke glaister 18/Apr/15 2nd O/S

No way a severe. A vs start and h's finish. Brilliant route. I'd easy give 2 of my **s to it.

casey johns 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/15 Solo O/S
Vnockles 06/Apr/15 2nd O/S

Definately more of a VS

with David Brock, Ian Faulkner
onlyfoddington 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S

I made a bit of a meal of it, and sweated a lot, and bloodied my knee. VS 4c in the climbers club guide.

with Tor, Ian
ian d f 06/Apr/15 2nd rpt
with Tor, David Brock
Hidden 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Ollie B 04/Apr/15 Solo O/S
with Robyn
Hidden ?/Apr/15 Lead
alan rosier 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jan/15 2nd β
matt.woodfield 06/Jan/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 Solo
PilarMartinez 08/Sep/14 -

Wouldn't say is a Severe. Some hard moves at the beginning. The crag at the top is worth giving it a go instead of exiting on the right where seems everyone goes as the rock is worn out.

with TheCherokee
brian watson 08/Sep/14 AltLd
Bob M 08/Sep/14 AltLd

New CC guide has this as VS 4c which is more realistic.

AdamCB 19/Aug/14 Lead
Andy Chubb 09/Aug/14 2nd O/S

I'd say this is worth VS. It's only 4b climbing but in a serious situation and could blow the mind of a severe leader. Great route though.

with Nick Gregory
leon 06/Aug/14 Lead O/S

i guess i should have expected some hand jamming...

Hidden 06/Aug/14 2nd
JClimb 03/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Rick Sewards
Richard P Coates 21/Jul/14 2nd O/S
elCapitano 21/Jul/14 Lead
with Coatesy
HassenBali 18/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Eoinparker 18/Jul/14 2nd O/S
erica 11/Jul/14 2nd
with John
John Brayshaw 11/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Erica
Curly Rich 05/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with gmc
Spillers 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Nathan Kitcher
Hidden 23/Jun/14 2nd O/S
CameronH 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Phil Glass
Helen Gibson 19/Jun/14 Lead
mossrug 09/Jun/14 -
with tony penning
Dan Geh 05/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Paddy, Will
chappers909 05/Jun/14 Lead
with Dan Geh
Hidden 30/May/14 2nd
John Pickles 30/May/14 Lead O/S
AndrewP 27/May/14 2nd O/S

I'd give this HS 4b.

FelixPeterken 27/May/14 Lead O/S

Definitely harder than s, some awkward jamming moves lower down

with AndrewP
Hidden 24/May/14 Lead O/S
John Brayshaw 02/May/14 Lead O/S
with Erica
erica 02/May/14 2nd
with John
Nick Russell 12/Apr/14 2nd

An entertaining route. Borderline HS/VS.

SJS 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Nick
Roo123 09/Apr/14 2nd

Drenched through whilst belaying..

AnnMarie3 24/Sep/13 AltLd
Calder 20/Sep/13 2nd

Big thank you to the guys who chucked me a rope after Rich broke his ankle - I really didn't fancy prussicking out!

Pero 11/Sep/13 Lead
Hidden 09/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Wilbur 09/Sep/13 2nd O/S

Severe. Err no. Harder than diedre sud to name but one example

with Paul Winder
Elliott90 ?/Sep/13 2nd
with Rhys Treharne
AMJ098 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Fran coles
Hidden 26/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/13 Lead
stevelismore 26/Aug/13 2nd
with James L
jsw1 25/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Did this after doing Sea Groove nearby, which is a VS 4b. This route is harder than that and should be graded as such. The twin cracks near the bottom are quite stiff for any Severe leader. Once you have abseiled down to do it you need to be able to climb back out or you are in for a swim, so I would recommend only for those confident at HS 4b or above. Absolutely great route though, the moves out of the niche had me laughing out loud to myself, great fun.

with Steve Lyon
Hidden 25/Aug/13 2nd O/S
UnkArl 24/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Matt
Hidden 11/Aug/13 AltLd
m675bowsl 09/Aug/13 Lead O/S
SianD 09/Aug/13 2nd
Matt1234 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Dr Toph 26/Jun/13 Solo O/S
KDhruev 24/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Katie
Julie Carroll 26/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Sol Fernandez
Tightsgirl 23/Apr/13 2nd
arose 23/Apr/13 Lead

Had to go back up for the other rope! Great route

Hidden 05/Apr/13 Lead
duncan 05/Apr/13 2nd
jcw ??/2013 -
Alex179 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
gjd 24/Sep/12 2nd O/S

One of the toughest and best severes I've ever done. Surely worth more than one star?

with Mark V
Stefan_Morris 03/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Dickon Morris
Graham Westbrook 03/Sep/12 2nd
JamesColeman ?/Sep/12 TR O/S

top rope solo

stephenarnold 11/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Short&Savage 07/Jul/12 2nd
The_Boy_ODwyer 04/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Colin Harvey
Hidden 04/Jul/12 2nd O/S
BenedictIEP 25/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Dan Lane 25/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Severe my arse! This felt harder than the VS to the left!

Hidden 25/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Brian Moseley 25/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Alex Munnery 23/May/12 2nd O/S
with NathanW
erbridger 22/May/12 Lead
paul horabin 16/May/12 AltLd O/S
steven 16/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Paul Horabin
Olli-C 04/May/12 AltLd

Hardest Severe ever. Rachel lead the VS for the second pitch, this was much nicer and much easier.

Rachel Slater 04/May/12 AltLd O/S

lead p2 but accidently strayed onto the vs to the left.

NathanW ?/May/12 Lead O/S
andy dunn 07/Apr/12 2nd
with Big Ben
Rhydian Evans 02/Apr/12 Lead O/S
ben1987 ?/Apr/12 -
Adam Coles ?/Apr/12 Lead
with ben1987
Jimboandrews. 12/Mar/12 -
Adam Coles ??/2012 Lead O/S
RosiePalmer 13/Dec/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Oct/11 Lead O/S
garethsteel 18/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Adam Booth 23/Sep/11 Lead O/S


Ellen Cobby 23/Sep/11 2nd dog
Hidden 15/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Chris_Mullaney ?/Sep/11 Lead dog
James Oswald 31/Aug/11 2nd O/S

The longest belay of my life. Ever. But Chris got it eventually! Keeping to the right hand crack is nice and feels about VS.

with Chris Mullaney, Kyle Wood
Hidden 30/Aug/11 2nd O/S
will9911 30/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Mr Sparkle 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Liam Byrne
Stone Muppet 28/Aug/11 2nd
Mr. K 28/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Chris_Mullaney 28/Aug/11 Lead
with Mr. K
Hidden 25/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 14/Aug/11 2nd
Graeme Hammond 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Phil PBC 26/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with henry castle
dj hannaford 20/Jun/11 2nd O/S

was chucking it down, however a truely amazing climb

with pablo thourne, Tom colquhoun
tim20 09/Jun/11 Lead
with pabs
johnpuddephatt 01/May/11 2nd O/S

Stiff for the grade. Felt like HS. Seconded in trainers.

Will Hunt 01/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/11 2nd rpt
prwalker 24/Apr/11 Lead

Pumpy but brilliant route.

with Ali Hutton
EmilyElouise 20/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
tobydunford 05/Sep/10 Lead O/S
ksjs 01/Sep/10 2nd O/S


with phil
ezclimber 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with matthew ch
Hidden 28/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Alasdair88 22/Aug/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Leelogs 14/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with SCC
ben47h 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
john_ohlsson 10/Aug/10 Lead O/S

done in 2 pitches bommers gear

Macca9999 10/Aug/10 Lead
andy dunn 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

cool line on steeper ground than you'd usually expect given the grade.

with Alan
john_ohlsson 04/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Macca9999 04/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S
siwclimber 28/Jul/10 2nd

very big rocks need seagul bashers (hex's) and plenty of slings.

with Rachel
RachelP 28/Jul/10 Lead

Swian, Alis, Niamh

with AAC
Hidden 26/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/10 Lead
martinp 11/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with PaulR
Edd Reed 02/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Donna Mawson
cliffy 30/May/10 AltLd O/S
Julian Prieto 30/May/10 Lead O/S
with Ollie Dorrell
Rob84 03/May/10 TR O/S

Started off on the lead, but got to the tricky move at the twin cracks below the niche and after trying it a few times I wasn't convinced so pansied out and called for a top rope. (1st time that's happened and a bit embarassing on a Sev!) I'm probably very biased now, but I'd say it's a real sandbag - it was touch and go even with a TR. The rest of the route is fair at the grade and very nice, but that little section is tough!

with Lou
JonBrown 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Sion
Helen Gibson 14/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Richard
brockers ?/Apr/10 -
Hidden ?/Apr/10 -
ian d f 17/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Grace Chuchla
Macca9999 23/Jan/10 Lead
cymjt ??/2010 -
pembrokeshirecaver 10/Sep/09 Lead O/S

blatantly HS

Skinny Kin 29/Aug/09 2nd O/S

Some exposure near the top. Quite decent for a severe. Plenty enough gear. Not quite a 3 star route to me.

with Pete White
Peter White 29/Aug/09 Lead
Peter White 29/Aug/09 2nd
with Robin Sillen
AndrewShanks 29/Aug/09 Lead RP
with Steve Loft
Fat Tim 21/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Mark kauntz
Hidden ?/Aug/09 AltLd
Hidden 26/Jul/09 Lead
Ed morris 15/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with arthur
Little AndyH 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with maria thorpe
Alan James - UKC and UKH 05/Jun/09 2nd
chiverstom 25/May/09 2nd O/S
drysori 25/May/09 Lead
Bux 10/May/09 Lead O/S
with Ruth Bevan
Chris the Tall 26/Sep/08 2nd

Used as an escape route when we couldn't get to Rock Idol. Nice route, but more like VS

with Dom Ske
thomasadixon 31/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Ybot Htulk 31/Aug/08 Lead
with Tom Dixon
climber130887 05/May/08 Lead O/S
Ben Griffiths 05/May/08 2nd O/S
with Jonathan Bull
d_meacher 08/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Trisha Murphy 08/Apr/08 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 Lead β
drysori ??/2008 Lead
Adam Booth ??/2008 Lead O/S

?what year

Ali3735 ?/Oct/07 2nd O/S
with Andy M
Richard ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Carrie
Ann S 28/Aug/07 2nd

Bit stiff at this grade, unless we were on a wrong line!!

with John Carlin
Hidden 07/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/07 AltLd O/S
chris wyatt ??/2007 -
Stone Muppet ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/06 Lead O/S
dan gibson 29/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with martina
chris j 25/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with James & Doug
Matty ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Carl Reilly
tom_1985 ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Matt Davies
Andy Barwell ?/Jun/06 Lead
Jules_Robbo ?/Jun/06 2nd
with James Cross, Sarah Burkitt
dan_o_b ?/May/06 AltLd O/S
alicia 30/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
with Tim Wilkinson
Tim W 30/Apr/06 2nd O/S
with alicia
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Sam and will 18/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Anthony Bennett + Ben Bennett
dicky79 ?/Aug/05 2nd O/S
with Vic Odell
ASchwirtz 08/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Marq 30/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Daniel Dennehy
ferdia 16/Jan/05 2nd
with Andrew Wielochowski
cem 28/Aug/04 2nd
with Liam Mark
Laramadness 30/Jul/04 2nd β
duncana 04/May/03 2nd

Nice belay. Saw a rabbit shoot up from top of climb after us!

with Pippa Archer
Hidden ?/Apr/03 2nd
cornishben ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Edouard Vincent
Hidden ??/2000 -
alan moore ??/2000 -
John Southworth ?/May/99 Lead O/S
with Stone Elworthy
Hidden 24/Jun/98 AltLd O/S
rc ??/1998 Lead
Hidden ??/1997 Lead O/S
Martin Bennett 04/May/92 -
with Chris Bell, MT
Hidden 29/Jun/90 Lead
Hidden ??/1990 -
Andy Say 31/May/89 Solo O/S
Hidden 13/May/89 2nd
BigHairyIan 08/Apr/88 Lead O/S
with Little Dean (Dean Gibbs)
Jelly Mould Surfer ??/1987 Lead O/S
hazeysunshine ?/Jun/85 AltLd O/S
with Jo
mark-abz 08/Nov/80 2nd
with ?
Hidden ??/1980 -
Hidden 13/Apr/79 Solo
Steve Lewis 25/Sep/78 Lead O/S
with Morty
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High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Votes cast 61
Votes cast 52
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set