40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
This magnificent route which gives entertaining climbing in a weird situation. Unfortunately the first pitch can be a bit slimy since it is buried in the through cave but the second pitch is superb. If there are birds nesting in the cave then consider doing it in one long pitch. Start beneath the left-hand of two grooves at the right-hand side of the back wall of the cave.
1) 5b, 20m. Climb to a ledge then move left onto the wall. Move up to gain a rightwards rising line which is followed to a good flake. Continue up and right (thread runner) until level with a hole on the right. Step down and gain the hole from below.
2) 5a, 20m. Pull out left then swing around the roof to gain a chimneying position above. Bridge up the outside edge above (or climb the right wall) and continue up the corner to the top.
The Fresh Air Finish, E2 5b. Climb straight over the roof above the cave and move right to the hanging arete. Pull onto this on its left and continue up the wall above in an amazing position. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn 5.75 May/1975

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Very good routes in the UK, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, Ultimate E2 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

Hidden 25/Aug/17 AltLd
Charlie Zephyr Booth 25/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with dave ferguson
Katekeltie 10/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Fatboy
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 10/Aug/17 2nd rpt
Hidden 14/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Haydn Jones 14/Jul/17 2nd O/S

Potentially the best e2 I've ever done.

Dave Lyon 13/Jul/17 -
with Mills
Euge401 25/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Amazing route. Top pitch is one of the best I've done,great holds and bridging all the way, really well protected, just take care to manage your ropes well to avoid drag! 2nd P1. Lead P2

with Anna S
Mark Stevenson 08/May/17 2nd O/S
with Chrissy Derrick, dan gibson
dan gibson 08/May/17 Lead O/S
Si Clapham ??/2017 -
nuts and bolts ??/2017 -
Hidden ??/2017 -
poeter210 26/Nov/16 Lead dog
Hidden 26/Nov/16 2nd O/S
mountain.martin 19/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Best route I've done in 10 years of living in Pembrokeshire. Ed convinced me to do it in one pitch, which I wasn't sure about before, but I'm glad I did. What a satisfying adventure when e2 is your top grade. Challenging and exciting but pretty safe. Take LOTS of slings.

with Edmund
markalmack 29/Aug/16 Lead O/S

in a one-er. Just managed to avoid a puking bird. Very cool route otherwise

Kris2fa 14/Aug/16 2nd dog

Utterly miserable experience getting puked on by a fulmar with seemingly unlimited ammo followed by failing to retrieve a stuck cam above the roof made this a route to forget... the climbing itself is amazing however!

with Adam24B
Adam24B 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Bloody vulmar in cave belay

Lakesben 05/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with Mark
ian d f 03/Jun/16 Lead O/S
pearson9596 03/Jun/16 2nd rpt
Andy Moles 25/Apr/16 Lead O/S

You should do this.

with Ferdia
ferdia 25/Apr/16 2nd
Hidden 24/Apr/16 2nd
pearson9596 24/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Jen Booys
guy xavier percival 17/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch Fantastic

with crispin
mattnuttall 30/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Another route with an unnerving greasy start and added pressure of tide approach... topped out to find it was raining steadily. Who knew?

Andrew Wilson 30/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Matt Nuttall
datoon 30/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Adam Coles
benkelsey 11/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Mega route! Strayed onto star gate for a bit too lo at the beginning and had to fight a bit. Ran out of gear after the awesome roof and had to rush to get shaun out from the tide.

with Shaun Humphreys
aiyer 08/Aug/15 2nd

With Rich and Dave

Cheese Monkey 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Absolutely insane

with Ric E
Hidden 25/May/15 Lead O/S
climbingpixie 25/May/15 2nd O/S

Absolutely awesome fun! Really good steep wall at the bottom then a mega jug haul over the roof. Spent quite a bit of time eye to eye with the fulmar at the belay but thankfully she must have been empty!

with Andy
Duncan Campbell 23/May/15 -

Just so good!

Graeme Hammond 08/Apr/15 Lead rpt

As one big pitch ACE! found much easier this time (previously led and had a rest on pitch 1 just before the belay)

with Chris Hindley
Justin T ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Fresh holds finish.

with Nick B
Hidden ?/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
Andrew Sloan 29/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Nails all the way. Struggled through the overhang even with a tight rope. Good lead by Martin.

Martin Haworth 29/Sep/14 Lead O/S

One of the best routes I've ever done. Climbed in a one long pitch.

with Andy
Duncan Campbell 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Amazing. It should be illegal how good this route is. Did in a big oner and still got puked on by the fulmar in the belay hole. Take lots of slings!

with GuyVG
Wood for Trees 16/Aug/14 2nd O/S

wow, sick on leg, wide eyes at the top.

mikeshewring 30/Jul/14 AltLd O/S


with sharpie
Patrick Hill 10/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Dan Geh
Dan Geh 10/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Such a good route. Got covered in chunder by the angry fulmar just below the roof, added to the experience. Really intimidating pull through the roof!

with Paddy
Hidden 13/May/14 Lead O/S
mike mo ??/2014 -
jon_gill1 25/Aug/13 Lead dog

Did first pitch clean,only to be confronted by a Fulmar that repeatedly vomited in my direction every time it caught eye contact with me,leaving me no choice but to make a belay in an earlier stance than the normal one. Then eventually led the 2nd half,but sadly popped off after getting through the lip due to being completely pumped out from trying to avoid the nest area!what a great route though!

with ross garfoot
dprctr 22/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Epic fail. Imogen went up first, then I did. Got scared by the bird hissing at me. Came down, got scared, thought I was going to die and went for a swim. Thanks to the guys for putting an Ab rope down and saving our gear. Should have read the guidebook and done it in one pitch. Awesome route which I must come back for.

Hidden 13/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
The Grist 24/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Jake Young 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Fucking birds!!! lead as one pitch

The_Boy_ODwyer 29/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches. Best climb ever.

with Colin Harvey
Hidden 29/Apr/13 2nd
Tubs 05/Apr/13 Lead O/S

A truly great climb especially when done in one pitch. Sustained, well protected and great positions.

with Dave M
jcw ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
gjd 25/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Mark led first pitch up to the thread and brought me up to there. The tide was coming in and the sea rough so I needed to move off the ledge. I went from the thread to the cave, straight over the roof and emerged to find it raining. A classic Mother Scarey's adventure!

with Mark V
Stuart Johnston 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Amazing. Bottom was dry. Lead in one pitch. Pulling through the roof is epic!

with Dave Cowell
Dangerous Dave 20/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Led 1st pitch, great route

with Dave O
Ed morris 20/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Dickon
dave o 20/Sep/12 AltLd O/S


Ed Babs 19/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

A great adventure. P2

with AlexD
AlexD 19/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Awesome in every way!

with Ed
Hidden 14/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Stefan_Morris 03/Sep/12 AltLd

Brilliant route! Led over the roof to the fresh air finish.

with Dickon Morris
pembrokeshirecaver 03/Sep/12 AltLd

Crux of the first pitch was visibly soaking from the ground but decided to try anyway. After hanging around for ages chalking all the holds was seriously pumped so had to rest on the rope. Still a great route and probably not particularly hard for E2 when dry.

Cardi 30/Aug/12 Lead dog

What an experience! Needed a couple of rests on P1 as got a bit tired when not completely sure where to go. Highly recommended to do in 2 pitches for the outrageous belay position! Top pitch was mental!

with Tom R
James Marshall 24/Jul/12 2nd
with Pete Shepherd
erbridger 22/May/12 2nd
JRae 11/Mar/12 Lead

Wow. Pretty ridiculous! As one massive pitch. For the record it goes pretty much straight up from the ledge left of Stargate.

with Paul M
pmurdy 11/Mar/12 2nd

Had a nighmare seconding this after Jonny placed gear off route. Fell off at the roof and had to prussik over it.

with Jonny Reay
Ollie B 14/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

P1, Fair amount of bird puke involved in this one. Brilliant route!

with L.Postlewaith
Hidden 14/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
davesimpson ?/Aug/11 AltLd rpt

went back to lead the second pitch. awesome fun, be careful of the nesting bird who was actually really relaxed in our presence

with Dean Russel
thomasadixon 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Wild moves on awesome jugs over the overhang. Went up the arete which was ok...bit loose at the top though.

with Mike
Ian Jones 26/Jul/11 Lead O/S

One 5c move in the groove. Totally dry but birds nesting in the cave made it awkward. Ran out of slings as I was expecting to do it in two pitches. Magnificent.

with Roger Benton
Nicola 03/Jul/11 2nd β
with Lee
benchwarmer 30/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Konrad
pipof747 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
robin_hackney 22/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route. The nesting Fulmar at the first belay was so gonna kick my ass though. I got a surprise when it introduced itself!

with Si
Alex Mason 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S

In one long pitch. Start has a tricky bit with greasy smears. Beneath and above the roof were nesting fuckwings so took a swerving line through the roof which felt about 5c. You could quite safely climb the route just on slings probably. More jugs than a jug mueseum.

Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
mwatson ??/2011 -
colkurtz 26/Sep/10 2nd dog
with Robb
Hidden 26/Sep/10 Lead
philhilo 28/Aug/10 2nd RP

Started up the start to stargate instead of deep space on stone cold arms - did not last long! Misha got on and did the lot as arms were dead and feeling bad after 2am arrival. Much easier second time around.

with misha
Misha 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Got a bit more than we had bargained for. The tide was in so decided to abseil down the finishing corner, which led straight into the sea, so had to do some jiggery pockery with placing several bits of gear half way down to force the abseil line onto the boulders below the arch. Very exciting but completely pointless as could just have abbed in on the other side of the arch and walked under it. Phil had fun following this ab line and having to take out the gear while I tried to hold the rope in. Phil was going to do the first pitch but pumped out half way up, so I pulled the ropes through and took over. Found it rather hard to the half way point. Later realised that we had started up Star Gate, which is why the moves felt more like 5c. Went on to finish the route in one pitch as Phil didn't fancy leading the overhang. Brilliant wild climbing over the roof. Should go back and do the proper first pitch and the Fresh Air Finish.

with Phil
Rich Guest 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Brilliant brilliant route! Lead it throughout. My wife retreated from the cave belay after much wailing and gnashing of teeth had taken place. She really wasn't liking the look of that roof either! I abbed off and stripped the whole route then treated her to an ascent of The Cracks. (Aren't I nice!!) ;)

just one more 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S


with tony l, Svenn G
Hidden 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Jessie Rushbrooke 12/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with GF
Adam Booth 21/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Ed Booth 21/Jun/10 Lead O/S
metal arms 04/May/10 Lead O/S

Done in one pitch

Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
JulesV ??/2010 AltLd
Sam the Butcher 14/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with andy latta and tom ce
Hidden 26/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/09 AltLd O/S
davesimpson ?/May/09 Lead dog
with charles ramadan
Brown 12/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with John
nicolat ??/2009 AltLd
Hidden 19/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Chad123 19/May/08 AltLd O/S

Still brilliant and very atmospherc - Emily took a different line on pitch two and joined up with Inner Space for the chockstone bit...

with Emily
VPJB ??/2008 -
Hidden 18/Sep/07 2nd O/S
ASchwirtz 27/Aug/07 Lead dog

2 rests on lower section

with Neil Hills
Hidden 24/Jul/07 2nd β
waltersp 16/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Nick
Hidden 08/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Billg ??/2007 AltLd

I got pitch 2 and was thankful. P1 was slimy and desperate due to humidity

Ricky Rocks ??/2007 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
chris wyatt ??/2007 Lead O/S
datoon 27/Aug/06 Lead O/S

There is currently a fulmar in the cave where you are meant to belay - so could only do first pitch :(

with MJ
Hidden 15/Jul/06 Lead
feilx 15/Jul/06 2nd
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Boy ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Dave Reeve ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
with Tony Payne
david morse ?/Aug/05 Lead dog

amazing. be careful for birds in cave by belay!

with rampant
Chad123 ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S

Classic route taking an amazing line out into mid air.....

with Huw
SteveM 01/May/05 2nd
with Chris
chrishedgehog 01/May/05 Lead dog

One slip on the slimy bit up the first pitch. Got straight back on.

with LMC
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
LC ?/May/04 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 08/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with KM
pete johnson ?/Apr/03 Lead
with Lun
dickypips ??/2003 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
robbo157 ??/2001 -
with Tim Sparrow
belay bunny turned bad ??/2001 AltLd
with loundsy
Hidden ?/Apr/00 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Tim Sparrow ??/2000 -
Andy Edgar ??/2000 AltLd O/S

slightly damp and greasy 1st pitch but worth the effort, led the first pitch

with Hugh Woodland
Tim M ??/2000 -
ellis ?/Sep/99 Lead O/S
with Sam Chinnery, Ally Coull
shoulders 01/Aug/99 AltLd O/S

Pitch one

with pete lewis, dai
Hidden 26/Jul/99 Lead
tmawer ??/1999 Lead O/S
nickdonohue 02/Aug/98 AltLd

awesome & superb. one of the best routes ever!

with Dave Chapman
Hidden ?/May/98 AltLd
Steve Long ??/1998 -
Ched ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Dave Musgrove Jnr 08/Sep/96 AltLd
with Al Willoner
Martin Bennett 05/May/96 -
with MT
phardman 06/Sep/95 Lead O/S

Steep climbing on pitch 1

with Jon Bibby
Hidden 29/Aug/95 Lead O/S
NeilGriffiths ??/1995 -
with Paul Tucker
whispering nic ?/Aug/93 Lead
with Graham Iles
mikej 18/Jun/92 AltLd
with Mike Byles
pete johnson 17/May/92 AltLd
with Mick Green
AlexRenshaw 28/Jul/91 Lead
with Dor? Green
Rich Kirby 29/Mar/91 AltLd
with Andy Mackay/Dave Taylor/Ian/PaulTanton
Eduardo Martinez ??/1991 Lead O/S
morganator ?/Sep/90 Lead O/S
with Si Cooke, James Hall
Hidden 12/May/90 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/90 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/89 AltLd O/S
Dave Rumney ?/Jul/89 AltLd
Nick Biven 02/Jun/89 Lead
wynaptomos ?/Apr/89 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1989 -
William Robertson ??/1988 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden ??/1988 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Jul/87 Lead
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/Jun/87 AltLd
Will Webb ?/Jun/87 Lead
with Mark Cole
Hidden 19/Apr/87 AltLd
John Marsland 17/Apr/87 AltLd
with Dave Mould
andy gittins ??/1987 -
Neil McA 19/Aug/86 AltLd O/S
with Jim Dockery
Brian Wilderspin 05/Jun/86 -
with Perric Crellin
ukb & bmc shark 12/Apr/86 AltLd
with Chris
Paul Clarke ??/1985 -
with LUMC, FMC
andybirtwistle 24/Apr/84 2nd
with Bob Smith
Mike Owen 17/Apr/84 AltLd O/S
with Phil Ralph
Nigel Coe 29/Aug/83 AltLd
with Pete Oxley, Tim Dunsby
AlexRenshaw ??/1983 2nd
with John Arran
Mark Kemball 13/Apr/82 AltLd
with Dave Fernley
Hidden 09/Apr/82 Lead
Dave Musgrove 17/Apr/81 AltLd
with Kim Greenald
Hidden 03/Jan/81 AltLd
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
with Martin Corbett
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 40
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 37
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set