Rockfax Description
III, 600m, 4 - 5 hours. A good route and the easiest way to the summit of one of the Alps' less accessible 4000ers. Having said that, it is a long and remote-feeling route commanding respect.
1) Climb the 40 - 45 degree snow couloir for 200m to emerge onto the southEast Face.
2) Follow a ramp, which leads up and gradually rightwards over moderate ground to a 100m high rock/mixed band.
3) 4b. Climb the rock/mixed band (sections of 4b) and then head leftwards to reach a snow slope.
4) Go left up the snow slope to hit a snow ridge and follow this to the summit ridge. Once on the ridge, scramble left easily onto the east summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
From the Courvercle hut, ross the glacier above the "Jardin" to a steep approach couloir. Climb this or the rocks on the right. At the top it merges with a steep snow slope which is followed to a rock band. Climb the band (various possibilities, bottom right to top left probably easiest. Above a steep snow slope and arete leads the summit rocks.

Ticklists

BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range

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