Restricted Access
The whole Eglwyseg escarpment is both a Site Of Special Scientific Interest. This means that any deliberate or reckless damage or disturbance to the features of the site (inc. to nesting birds, vegetation clearance or drilling) could be regarded as a criminal act.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 15 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restrictions normally apply from the route "Black & Blue" to the far south side of the crag ("Freshly Dug") inclusive - all routes between and including these routes are usually restricted from Feb 15th until July 15th. Look out for marker posts on the cliff base to confirm the restrictions. All routes on the right hand side of Nemesis wall sector and all of Dawn Buttress sector are affected by this restriction.
Rockfax Description
The attractive grey slab.1) 5b, 20m. Start just right of a small tree/bush. Climb to a horizontal break (peg) and on rightwards to a hidden second peg. Continue trending right past some poor rock to another peg and a tree belay above.2) 4b, 12m. Climb the corner past a tree or abseil off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
1) 5b, 20m. AScend to the corner where there once was a peg. Traverse left keeping as low as possible until one can gain the indistinct, cracked and quite horrifically loose rib. Ascend the loose stacked blocks to the 'twig' where you can jibber at the prospect of the top pitch.
2) 5a, 12m. No description yet- hmm I wonder why- I'd suggest this "climb the right hand side of the 'bay', thinking light thoughts and having five points of contact at all times. Horrific. (Description submitted by Duncan Martin)
FA. Stuart Cathcart, Greg Griffith 18.5.80 18/May/1980.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| pauldrew | 30 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: First peg now gone. Flake has come off just before the final peg, leaving a small crimp and making the final move to the peg significantly easier. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: First peg now gone. Flake has come off just before the final peg, leaving a small crimp and making the final move to the peg significantly easier. |
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| jim jones | 12 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Thought this was OK (for Craig Arthur!) at its original HVS. Digitron, Touch of Class, Three Dimensions etc are all much harder. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Thought this was OK (for Craig Arthur!) at its original HVS. Digitron, Touch of Class, Three Dimensions etc are all much harder. |
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| Paul Evans | 19 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Perhaps a little soft for E2, but as we were using the Dicksinson guide we thought this was flippin' hard for HVS! Standing up on the block is interesting... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Perhaps a little soft for E2, but as we were using the Dicksinson guide we thought this was flippin' hard for HVS! Standing up on the block is interesting... |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Arthur
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FOMO
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Pot Hole Quarry (Three Springs))