UKC

Restricted Access

The whole Eglwyseg escarpment is both a Site Of Special Scientific Interest. This means that any deliberate or reckless damage or disturbance to the features of the site (inc. to nesting birds, vegetation clearance or drilling) could be regarded as a criminal act.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restrictions normally apply from the route  "Black & Blue"  to the far south side of the crag ("Freshly Dug") inclusive - all routes between and including these routes are usually restricted from Feb 15th until July 15th. Look out for marker posts on the cliff base to confirm the restrictions.   All routes on the right hand side of Nemesis wall sector and all of Dawn Buttress sector are affected by this restriction.

 

 

 

 

35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fabulous line up the front of the buttress finishing in a wild position through the capping roofs. Better if started up These Foolish Things with a traverse to the belay at the top of pitch 1.
1) 5b, 20m. From the upper ledge. Step left to the bottom of a very lichenous corner. Climb this, to an overlap and then climb the groove-line on the right to a stance - many pegs.
2) 6b, 15m. Move up past a small ledge to the capping roofs - old bolt - and make tough moves through these to a final layback and the top. Threads and a peg. © Rockfax

FA. Stuart Cathcart, Greg Griffith 15.5.80 with one point of aid, free climbed in its current form by John Codling & John Moulding 15/May/1980.

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Route of Interest
Heaven or Hell

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Craig Arthur)

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