Rockfax Description
The clean slab/wall left of Caerfai Crack has some testing moves. Climb the wall, moving gradually leftwards to gain the horizontal break. Finish more easily. © Rockfax

jasongale2848 12/Oct/17 TR O/S
Graeme Hammond 04/Oct/17 Lead O/S
with Nina R
Hidden 04/Oct/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/17 2nd O/S
marcus_goff 01/Sep/17 Lead O/S
with will
freec 27/Aug/17 Lead O/S
pingora 26/Aug/17 2nd rpt
Paul Baxter 26/Aug/17 Lead O/S
John1458 24/Aug/17 2nd O/S
RileyJ 23/Aug/17 Lead
jennysknight 23/Aug/17 2nd
with Kane
Whipinator 23/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Jenny
Wallman 19/Aug/17 Lead RP
with Rob L
acornegg 19/Aug/17 Lead RP
freemanTom 09/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Run out at start and near top but good fun

with Nicky
Roget 07/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with jon
Arran W 02/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Anna
Steve Waters, Mynydd 08/Jul/17 2nd
mtempest 08/Jul/17 Lead
BStar 01/Jul/17 TR O/S
with Rachael
SuperLee1985 29/May/17 Lead O/S

Very bold first half and first couple of placements weren't great. Plenty of gear once you join the crack proper and then a bit bold again when you move out left to the triangles. The route eases toward the top though.

with Sam Tucker, Anna Lawrence
SamT1 29/May/17 2nd β
with Anna Lawrence, Lee Cammann
Stixy 27/May/17 2nd O/S
with Stump
Jonoban 25/May/17 2nd
the power 26/Apr/17 2nd
with rob
CameronH 20/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Martin Davies 10/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Really really good fun, bold at start but great holds further up, slab is amazing feature!

Camilla Mapstone 09/Apr/17 2nd
Angrypenguin 09/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Camilla Mapstone 09/Apr/17 2nd
KatOstrich 09/Apr/17 2nd

Good climbing but not much gear at all

with Catherine Johns
catty_9 09/Apr/17 Lead

Not much gear, cams were very useful. Good climbing though

with Rory Lucas, Kat Ostrich
RoryLucas 09/Apr/17 2nd
mountain.martin 05/Apr/17 Lead rpt
Eloise_SW 04/Apr/17 2nd O/S
with Dom
matt.woodfield 24/Mar/17 Lead O/S
TeenageMutantClimbingTurtle 05/Nov/16 2nd O/S

sunshine and seals!

WillWambam 05/Nov/16 Lead
with Cathy
Robrossmills 05/Nov/16 Lead O/S
harrybeadle 05/Nov/16 2nd O/S
Christabel Goode 05/Nov/16 Lead
Hidden 16/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 02/Sep/16 Lead
with Pete Kelly
Marq 01/Sep/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Sep/16 2nd O/S
stephheeley 31/Aug/16 2nd
foostu4 31/Aug/16 Lead rpt
suds_01 31/Aug/16 Lead
with Kate murphy
GLO 30/Aug/16 2nd
EeFu 29/Aug/16 Lead rpt
with Sam
cem 28/Aug/16 2nd rpt
pingora 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Charles
Trace 28/Aug/16 Lead
FLHgirl 23/Aug/16 2nd
Tim Sparrow ?/Aug/16 Lead
with Catrin, Luke
Hidden 29/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Ffyona 23/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Stepanek 09/Jun/16 Lead
Sam Hunt 09/Jun/16 2nd O/S
DanielBryan 07/Jun/16 Lead
with Charlie
Hidden 07/Jun/16 Lead
gtaylor997 06/Jun/16 Lead O/S
elewis96 ?/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Jack Turner, koharuurawa
rurp 31/May/16 -
with emma rowland, ben rowland
ipegg 29/May/16 Lead O/S
with John Andrews
markfromstoke 07/May/16 Lead
with Steve S
JamesBurton 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Charlotte
davidclare 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Gemma Carey, Alastair Everett
Just_Waltr 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Connor Laye
Darrell Read 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
spenser 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Mike Hayes
Dan Hostford 29/Apr/16 Lead
deklan 14/Apr/16 Solo
deklan 25/Mar/16 Solo
Hidden 03/Feb/16 2nd
scorpia97 03/Feb/16 Lead
with Caspian
Mark Young ??/2016 Lead
with Helen
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Hidden 28/Oct/15 Lead
richy85 10/Oct/15 2nd
with George
Hidden 27/Sep/15 Lead
cdpuk 27/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Eagertom 08/Sep/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/15 -
StevieLee 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Lukem6 30/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Kev, Jenny Monkey
knighty 30/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Jenny Monkey 30/Aug/15 2nd
with kev, Luke Mansfield
Michael Bortoluzzi 29/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Geoff Hannis (WCC)
Somerset swede basher 18/Aug/15 Solo O/S
Doug miller 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Andy Hardy 07/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Side runner in caerfai crack low down

TwofoZeus ?/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Retro logging

Jenny Hall 29/Jul/15 2nd
with Louis
Hidden 17/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 10/Jul/15 2nd
Hidden 03/Jul/15 2nd
Hidden 03/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Joe Brooke ?/Jul/15 AltLd
with Justin, Lee, Rich
Antony Mariani 22/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Jo P
Hidden 22/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/15 2nd O/S
mjeffery 18/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with Steve
Hidden 16/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Julian Prieto 24/May/15 Lead O/S
with Anne-Marie Shepherd, Alan Blanchflower
Hidden 24/May/15 Lead
Norman_P_W 24/May/15 2nd
with Bob M
Bob M 24/May/15 Lead
Monkey_Alan 24/May/15 2nd
with Anne-Marie Shepherd, Julian Prieto
Vincej 24/May/15 2nd
with Nevil
Hidden 09/May/15 2nd O/S
Steve Wakeford 04/May/15 2nd
with Dan Commander
Dan Hostford 02/May/15 Solo rpt
jonnyboy 01/May/15 Lead O/S
Happeuss 15/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Hulda 07/Apr/15 Lead
with Andi
Andrew1 07/Apr/15 Lead
with Hulda
Neal Jobling 04/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with Robin
spearing05 03/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Andrew
Hidden 03/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Dizz 03/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Dave Frost
Jack2222 ??/2015 -
luke glaister 30/Dec/14 2nd O/S

Hard vs at most. But it looks good on the log book... lovely route.

casey johns 30/Dec/14 Lead O/S

Run out at the start but not hard climbing then 3 great bits of gear to start moving left. Vs 4c

GethSurf 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/14 2nd
stalbot 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with maddy92
David Maddison 14/Sep/14 2nd O/S
smolders 23/Aug/14 Lead

Unable to place any gear on the bottom section so ended up going R onto bottom Caerfai Crack then rejoining the route at the first horizontal break. Seemed harder than VS?

with Jen M
Hidden 23/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Rob Morgan 22/Aug/14 2nd
Steve Bartle 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Steve Woollard 06/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 06/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Paula Ryan ?/Aug/14 2nd
with Robin Brooke
Hidden ?/Aug/14 Lead
DanChad 28/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Chris Murray 28/Jul/14 Lead

Not a chance this is HVS.

Hidden 12/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Steveb27 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Stanners 08/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Tom Brierley, Shijing, BA, Maria Brierley
Feeling bold 08/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Rob (lead), Rachel
miriamclaire 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Radical-G 16/Jun/14 Lead O/S
UBMC 09/Jun/14 2nd
mclancy50 09/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/14 Lead O/S
JoeWilliams 03/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Kate
Hidden 31/May/14 2nd
cameron_hall 31/May/14 Lead rpt
Pintsize 31/May/14 Lead O/S
with Angus McBride
Hidden 18/May/14 TR O/S
fuzzysheep01 04/May/14 2nd O/S
with Graham Perry
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead
Dan Hostford 02/May/14 Solo O/S
bantamdave 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Bold .Very bold 2 pieces of gear half way up then one on the top out ! 80 feet ? Ha just realized my book said VS its HVS That explains it ! grades about right !

with Simon
hutchay 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Matt Hutch
hotfeet 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Steveb27 18/Apr/14 Lead
themadbrown 09/Apr/14 -
with Sid, chlo-jo,, james
RM199 18/Mar/14 Lead O/S
guy757 08/Mar/14 -
Alex the Alex 07/Mar/14 Lead O/S
khris ??/2014 Lead O/S
with Bradley
BicycleBradley ??/2014 2nd rpt
Sol Armer 19/Oct/13 TR

Great route. Ascender= no belayer need

Hidden 09/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Oct/13 Lead O/S
EeFu 05/Oct/13 Lead
cem 05/Oct/13 2nd
Steve Lenartowicz 13/Sep/13 Lead
with Clare
Hidden 02/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S
DanOsb 30/Aug/13 Lead O/S

not hvs.

Martin Bagshaw 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Bernie
Hidden 25/Aug/13 2nd
Montecore 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S

VS in newer guides, and felt like it

with Ben Simpkins
Skullfire 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Jun Minohara
Hidden 24/Aug/13 2nd
wnlwy 23/Aug/13 2nd
with bencole
bencole 23/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Nick
dannyboy83 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Sion
JenDurden 16/Aug/13 Lead
cas54321 06/Aug/13 2nd
with Chris
ladymuck 06/Aug/13 TR O/S
with Jill Eccles
JonathanJones 01/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Scott
LiamAD 01/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Curly Chris
themadbrown 26/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with james
chris skipton 22/Jul/13 2nd
John Brayshaw 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Chris
erica 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Phil
Phil Mercer 22/Jul/13 2nd
with erica
Hidden 13/Jul/13 TR O/S
cpoad 10/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with John S
Alex Wade 08/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Matt88 08/Jul/13 2nd

cant find anything that would warrant this hvs 5a

with Alex wade
Hidden 06/Jul/13 2nd O/S
cameron_hall 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
leeoftroy ?/Jul/13 2nd O/S
ClemB 13/Jun/13 2nd
JakeWShaw 13/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Clem
JHiley 13/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Zuzana
Hidden 13/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Tom.Priestley 05/Jun/13 Lead dog

Foot slipped out of the top of the sentry box and I took my first lead fall. Bit of fun.

Scott Quinn 05/Jun/13 2nd
mhawk 01/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/May/13 2nd
ashsleight 26/May/13 Lead O/S

VS 4c in the book. Definitely not HVS.

with John Wilkins
coffeepot 25/May/13 2nd β
Mistee 18/May/13 2nd O/S
with Phil
Hidden 18/May/13 Lead O/S
Dan Hostford 06/May/13 Lead O/S
jimbonfire 05/May/13 Lead O/S
Maddie 04/May/13 Lead O/S
theandthem 04/May/13 Lead O/S
with Ralph
RFWilkie 04/May/13 2nd O/S

Middling/Easy VS no HVS.

with James
foostu4 04/Mar/13 Lead O/S
djromberg ??/2013 -
gjd 20/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Mark V
Hidden 14/Sep/12 Lead O/S
dale.young 05/Sep/12 TR rpt
Hidden 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden 31/Aug/12 2nd
BicycleBradley 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Easy first official HVS. Only one 5a move, which needed confidence rather than skill, enjoyed regardless.

Hidden 13/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Mountainman62 13/Aug/12 2nd
with James91
Meinertzhagen 13/Aug/12 TR O/S
Fiona McFarlane ?/Aug/12 2nd
Rob Hirst 30/Jun/12 Lead rpt
climbingchica 30/Jun/12 2nd
joe king 25/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Rose
HarryB 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with John
mchandy 09/Jun/12 2nd
Katherine Ross 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S

I got 3 pieces of gear, all about mid-height, so HVS is not completely unreasonable. Definitely not 5a, though!

Chris1234H 02/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 02/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Coops_13 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Jez
erbridger 23/May/12 Lead
bigglesbutcha 18/May/12 Lead O/S
with rob hunt
wiljones 08/May/12 Lead O/S
benjih2o 08/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/12 2nd
Hardcore Pat 10/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Chris Vanderz
steven 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Fiona, Paul Horabin
Hidden 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Clay C 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Jay
Debs 08/Apr/12 2nd
with Karl
will9911 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with John
Hidden 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Big Rik 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Jay C 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Looking in an old guide book I think there's a bit of a confusion. To the left of Caerfai Crack there is a VS 4c (The Byrn) and then to the right of Caerfai Crack in between this route and White Corner there is a delicate slab route (HVS 5a - The Bryn).

with Clay C
teflonpete 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S

The one left of Caerfai crack looking at the crag. Definitely only VS

with Blanchie, rockovamonkey
UnkArl 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S

VS 4c as with most of the routes on this wall the slab by first half is quite run-out (I placed a 00 micro wire that Rik said he wouldn't hang an ActionMan off).

with Lisa, Rik, Debbie
paul horabin 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Different Steve 07/Apr/12 Lead rpt
with Emma Hawkins
Ralphus 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
3kidsandanorton 07/Apr/12 Lead
with Catherine
Jim Slater 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Not much of climb, super easy tick for an HVS.

Hidden ?/Apr/12 2nd
funsized ?/Apr/12 Lead O/S


fi15 ?/Apr/12 2nd
Hidden 05/Mar/12 2nd
dangerousoldfool ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Matt
PAJames ??/2012 -
Rob_Webster ??/2012 -
Tom Wayman ??/2012 Lead
garethsteel 21/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Blisco 28/Aug/11 2nd

Mat finished up Caerfai Crack, I seconded up the correct line.

with Mat Mitchell
Hidden 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Karlos 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Ben
Jonny M 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
fatbuoybazza 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Jim Malo 26/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Ian, Tim
mariannekhoo 24/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Not sure why this is given HVS, it's more VS 4b.

Hidden 11/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 02/Aug/11 Lead
tully1987 02/Aug/11 2nd
Rob Hirst ?/Aug/11 TR O/S
Oliver Sherman 29/Jul/11 2nd
with John Eales
jonny taylor 25/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Andy K
alberttcone 25/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
adam carless 10/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Andy Sheridan
Hidden 01/Jun/11 2nd
mjeffery 25/May/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 14/May/11 2nd O/S
Matt Smith 14/May/11 Lead O/S
james rafferty ?/May/11 -
Hidden 08/Apr/11 Lead O/S
coombs 01/Mar/11 Lead O/S
danielskingley ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Jono Graham ??/2011 -
Chris M Thomas 08/Sep/10 TR rpt

Fine sunny afternoon. Climb protected by shunt on double rope.

pelvoux 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S

First gear half way on top of the slab, then 4 gears in a row and up for the top

with Mario
jonny taylor 13/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Jim Gaffney 13/Aug/10 TR O/S
TM_Horton 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with will
JoEglington 08/Aug/10 2nd
hazeysunshine 01/Aug/10 2nd
with Dave
Nigel R Lewis 01/Aug/10 2nd
with Ian Goudge
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
pie_eater_pete ?/Aug/10 Lead
with Jo
preet s 10/Jul/10 2nd
with Luis Parsons (aka Hero)
Ed morris 16/Jun/10 Solo O/S

Thought I was on the HS.

with Lee
Jams Crwca 16/Jun/10 Lead β
with Jeff
timofy ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S
themadbrown 21/May/10 2nd O/S
with james
rich_greeny 02/May/10 TR O/S
with Duncan Slater
Byronius Maximus 01/May/10 2nd
Aid@n 01/May/10 Lead
Twisty 01/May/10 Lead O/S
with Byron Buck
Rhydian Evans 14/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Matt Bill Platypus 27/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Jules 210681 24/Sep/09 2nd
Zoomer 24/Sep/09 Lead O/S
jonny taylor 23/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with James
Jimmy O 23/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/09 2nd O/S
mje1398 16/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Steph B
Claire Taylor 18/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Nick Weston
Hidden 25/Jul/09 TR O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Leelogs 25/May/09 2nd
with Chris
Hidden 24/May/09 Lead
Hidden 23/May/09 Lead O/S
broc 23/May/09 Lead O/S
with Sarah, Geoff
Blisco 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Definitely not HVS; I thought I was on Caerfai Crack and was quite willing to believe it was VS 4b.

with Chris Townsend
Rog Wilko 11/Apr/09 2nd
with Gerard Conway
Swotson 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S

2nd time.

with Ian Athroll
scorpia97 18/Feb/09 2nd O/S
with Caspian
Hidden 18/Feb/09 Lead
Hidden 03/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Rob Hirst 10/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/08 Lead O/S
scorpia97 30/Aug/08 2nd
with Caspian
Hidden 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Howard J 24/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Ronnie Abrams
Hidden 10/Aug/08 TR
sman3333 10/Aug/08 Lead O/S

pretty cool..good photos!

Hidden 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/08 Lead rpt
ASchwirtz 09/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Ian (UBMC)
Meg Jones 24/May/08 Lead O/S
with Tim Griffin
tomB 24/May/08 Lead O/S
jonnyhawkins1 17/May/08 TR O/S
with kat
GeorgeArmstrong 05/May/08 Lead O/S
with Rob Harrison
jamie ward 02/May/08 Lead O/S

Delicate climbing up the white slab, best route here.

with Chris Comrie
Hidden 11/Nov/07 2nd O/S
Chris the Tall 11/Nov/07 Lead O/S

Nice but very easy for the grade Completed just before a heavy shower, but we still got soaked

with Dave J
Hidden 28/Aug/07 TR
Hidden 28/Aug/07 TR O/S
hardoreVdiffBen 06/May/07 Lead O/S
with Ben Freeman
bfreeman 05/May/07 Lead O/S
Allan Watson 05/May/07 Lead
with Ian Atkins
Dave Wearing 06/Apr/07 2nd
with Ken Tebay
Dan Shirley 29/Mar/07 2nd O/S
swmackey ??/2007 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/06 Lead
crag_monster ?/Jun/06 Lead
Marq 29/May/06 Lead O/S
with Daniel Dennehy
Hidden 07/May/06 Lead O/S
TheNorthernOne 26/Apr/06 Lead

MY FIRST HVS 5a, and it was fooking fantastic!!!

with Dave Steadman
K Wall 15/Apr/06 2nd
with Jonno
Hidden 15/Apr/06 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
jamie ward 29/May/05 2nd O/S
with Tom Skipworth
Rog Wilko ?/Mar/05 Lead

Soft for the grade. VS 4c?

with Debbie Wilkinson
clive-greenwood 06/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Owen Sudlow
kendogcatchy ??/2004 TR

If this is what I think it is topped a few times.

leon ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Andy Wright
akhughes ?/May/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 -
Hidden 04/May/02 Lead O/S
Tarquin ??/2002 -
lost.arrow 25/Aug/01 2nd
with Nikki Hawkins
Bry ?/Jul/01 2nd O/S
with Pete Roberts
Hidden 27/May/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/01 -
Tarquin ??/2001 2nd
alan moore ??/2000 Solo
belay bunny turned bad ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden 13/Jun/98 2nd O/S
Paul-Michael 23/May/98 Lead O/S

did not step left but climbed direct.

with Nick Hanie
auld al ?/Apr/97 Lead O/S
sdht ?/Jun/96 -
michael burrows 05/Apr/96 Lead O/S
with richard parry
Andy Say 02/May/94 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
4 users have this on their wishlist
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 79
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 71
Votes cast 64
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set