90m, 3 pitches.
Start up Y Chimney but exit leftwards by hard moves after 10m - much lower than the summer line of Trindod.
P1 7 25m Climb Y Chimney for 10 awkward metres to a good gear crack on the left. Step back down and make hard moves across left to gain a turfy line. Follow the obvious turfy line up and leftwards to a good ledge below a short vertical wall with a crack.
P2 5 30m Climb the short wall and go right to a bay below an ice-choked groove. Climb the icy groove, with very poor gear, to a final exhilarating pull out through the steepness at its top. Pegs will be found useful.
P3 5 30m Climb the turfy/heathery weakness behind the belay.
P1 7 25m Climb Y Chimney for 10 awkward metres to a good gear crack on the left. Step back down and make hard moves across left to gain a turfy line. Follow the obvious turfy line up and leftwards to a good ledge below a short vertical wall with a crack.
P2 5 30m Climb the short wall and go right to a bay below an ice-choked groove. Climb the icy groove, with very poor gear, to a final exhilarating pull out through the steepness at its top. Pegs will be found useful.
P3 5 30m Climb the turfy/heathery weakness behind the belay.
Ian Parnell, Pete Harrison 28/Mar/2013.
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Route of Interest
Central Gully Direct
Grade: VI ***
(Y Lliwedd)