Rockfax Description
The most popular route on the buttress takes a strong line up grooves between the two blocks of roofs. Steep and sustained climbing on generally big holds. Abseil to a ledge below the central section of the crag. From the ledge, move up to the wide chimney capped by a roof. Move left below this via some undercuts to a good jug. Head up the slab to a groove that leads up to and through a roof onto another slab. Move up to the final roof and climb it direct via a long reach that often falls short of the jug you were aiming for, dig deep and go for it again. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist.

benrhyd 11/Nov/17 2nd
nickdonohue 15/Aug/17 Lead
with Tom Lawfield
MJS 28/May/17 Lead
paulsross 14/May/17 Lead

ab'ed in for 2nd pitch. Really fun, safe route.

with Phil Biglands
Graeme Hammond 18/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Abseiled in just for top pitch, also did again on TR to get out after stripping the gear on Plastic Nerve. Great moves, could be longer, probably harder if short

with Matt G
Hidden 18/Apr/17 Lead β
benrhyd 02/Apr/17 2nd
with Iwan llyr, Adam Haynes
Hidden 02/Apr/17 Lead dog
jesse.stuck ?/Feb/17 Lead β
andybirtwistle ??/2017 -
guy757 13/Oct/16 -
with Vic
Butel 21/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Fat Andy Heff 01/Jul/16 2nd O/S
GazzerM55 23/Jun/16 -
with Jock Andrews
Mark Fairhurst 18/Jun/16 AltLd
with Jon Holliday
mike lawrence? 23/May/16 2nd
with Metal
dobby 200 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S
joedean ??/2016 -
johnmk ??/2016 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2016 -
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
rushy11111918 31/Jul/15 2nd
with David
Hidden 31/Jul/15 Lead O/S
George_Surf 14/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Excellent cruxy climbing. Tricky under the first overhang, the second and committing to finish the last. Great gear, steep line.

Pinguville 14/Jun/15 2nd O/S

good climbing pretty hard stuff , the undercut move was difficult and the final move very hard , rewarding tho !

with George
brockers 04/May/15 Lead
with Maggie Bass, Carole Feldman
GStone 04/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Marcus Harvey
Hidden ??/2015 -
jcw ??/2015 -
jshields 06/Sep/14 2nd
with Martin Lancaster
dan gibson 29/Jul/14 Solo O/S
Phill Mitch 24/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with gaz
jmills94 04/May/14 2nd dog

found this stupidly hard. Not sure if we tackled the wrong side of the overhang at the top.

with Neil McCallister
Hidden 26/Apr/14 -
Hidden 24/Mar/14 AltLd
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 AltLd
with Bill Preston
Si ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mark mcgowan01 ?/Nov/13 -
with Esther Bott
Tina Wilkinson 04/Sep/13 TR dog

Fantastic climb. Would love to second next time. My 2nd HVS. 3 great overhangs. Climbed with

with Nick Marriott, James MacHaffie, David Barber
Hidden 03/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Owain Llewelyn 25/Jun/13 2nd
with Gareth E
Hidden ?/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/May/13 Lead
rachelpearce01 17/May/13 2nd

abd down to just do second pitch as first not worth it, lots of jugs, and lots of sun!

Mr Tickle 05/May/13 2nd O/S

Abbed in for just 2nd pitch

Hidden 03/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Mar/13 AltLd
Tim Sparrow 17/Feb/13 2nd
with Piers Nesbitt
PAJames ??/2013 -
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
Dom Cordner 11/Sep/12 TR O/S
Pete Nugent 26/Aug/12 Lead dnf

Used to be able to do this easly, advancing yeras and increaing lack of flexibility in my hips meant that I could'nt do the high step up on the final move.

with Pete Blackburne (Blacky)
Ceridwen 10/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant route!

with Pete Staves
No? Yes! 30/May/12 AltLd

Mick led first pitch - much scarier than 2nd ! Ab in my advice

with Mick B
nic42 04/May/12 AltLd
with al
shoulders 13/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with dai
Bruce Houston ?/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/12 Lead O/S
BenRyle 06/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Callum Anderson ??/2012 -
chrisallan 05/Nov/11 Lead dog
jezb1 15/Oct/11 2nd

Abbed in top pitch only. First pitch looked crap so didn't bother. Nice route going through some cool terrain for the grade.

Hidden 02/Sep/11 2nd
kdalzell 16/Aug/11 2nd
Swotson 15/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Excellent fun! Tricky committing crux with minimal footholds

with Ian Athroll
TimKnight 02/Aug/11 TR O/S


zukator 13/Jun/11 2nd
with Sarah
Hidden 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
dan ely 02/Jun/11 2nd O/S

hard approach for first timmer

with steve
Hidden 25/Apr/11 Lead
simeclimb68 27/Mar/11 Lead rpt
Tala A 27/Mar/11 2nd O/S

First pitch is completely overgrown and inaccessible. Second pitch is a lot of fun, glad I was only seconding though as the big jug at the top is hidden and I was slightly too short to reach it, had to make a move off a tiny crimp to get it. Fantastic route though!

happy_c 22/Mar/11 TR
Jackspratt 22/Mar/11 TR O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/11 2nd rpt
david morse 30/Jan/11 Lead O/S

Back and footed up the groove to the left of the in situ cam (where the topo shows the route going, odd), felt like solid E2 5c in this way. Very confusing but enjoyable!

with chris todd
Hidden 30/Jan/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
paddywalsh11 23/Nov/10 2nd
steepstuff 11/Oct/10 Lead O/S
marky65 11/Oct/10 2nd
with Matt
maffujones 11/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Mark
mattgrange 11/Oct/10 2nd

After a first pitch of, thanks to the unmatched topographical skills of Kenton Cool, exceptional esoteric and botanical interest, the second pitch was a delightful sequence of balancey and thoughtful overhangs, much enlivened by the antics of messrs Emmett and Gresham on the adjacent Cardiac Arete (thanks Luke!)

luke2442 11/Oct/10 2nd O/S

As eloquently described by Matt Grange, but the route being assaulted by Mr. Emmett and Mr. Gresham was in fact Cardiac Arete.

spidey 09/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
with adam
Misha 18/Sep/10 Lead

Initially intended to do this as a warm up route. Didn't read the approach description in the guide book and foolishly decided to come in from the Peuterey Buttress. There was no obvious path along the cliff base, so ended up going to the top and traversing along a field at the top of the crag. This brought us to the Upper Tier, where we did an attractive line that took our fancy (Quatre Fois Direct VS 4c, which Tom did with a superdirect finish up a bold slab at E1 5a). We then descended Helsinki Gully to have a look for Stromboli. At this point it started to rain and we whiled away the time by bashing around in the jungle in an attempt to locate the route. Eventually realised we were too far to the right and at last found the first pitch right next to the bottom of the gully. This pitch seemed to mostly involve scrambling on tottering vegetation, which didn't appeal in the slightest. Did Helsinki Wall instead as this was dry. While checking out the top out on that route to make sure it was dry, saw someone belaying at the top of Stromboli who kindly pointed out the ab point. Abbed in after doing Helsinki Wall. The holds on the initial slab were wet but it wasn't too hard. Saw a bat (?) hiding in a crack. Really good, varied pitch, I'd give it three stars. The alternative finish up an overhanging crack just left of the normal finish was particularly fun, involving jamming in a crack with ferns growing out of it and a quality belly flop (unintentional - I just didn't spot the normal finish). It started property pissing it down as I was pulling the ropes through but Tom managed to second ok. Retired to the pub after that.

with Tom
ritchierich 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S

Abbed in to tree belay and did last pitch,other section overgrown.

Hidden 30/Aug/10 Lead
mtempest 29/Aug/10 AltLd
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
Steve Waters, Mynydd 29/Aug/10 AltLd

Finally found the start of this climb (by descending the descent gully from the western end of the top of the crag - don't go all the way to the bottom of the crag - it's about 25m up and obvious when you find it) and well worth the search... 3 great sequences make an action packed main pitch. Superb.

clive-greenwood 18/Jul/10 AltLd
with Dave Clarke
msoldn 16/Jul/10 2nd O/S

the topo couldn't be more off!

with Mark
christoph owen 16/Jun/10 2nd O/S

P2 only. Abbed in

with Mike L
Hidden 12/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 07/Jun/10 TR
Lunar25 30/May/10 Lead O/S
JulesV 30/May/10 2nd O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
Shauna 30/May/10 Lead O/S
with Jules
feilx 30/May/10 Lead O/S
with Heather
Hidden 30/May/10 AltLd O/S
adam06 16/May/10 Lead

when u think its over... there was a hard mantle! ended up belly flopping it. did this route again on second 9/10/10 turns out i did the wrong finish! right crack is much easier

Hidden 16/May/10 2nd
dicky79 03/May/10 Lead O/S

P2 only

with Pete
brockers 02/May/10 2nd

top pitch only!

Hidden 02/May/10 Lead
hervenuttall ?/May/10 Lead O/S
with alex
Hidden ?/May/10 2nd
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead O/S
RachelP 21/Apr/10 Lead
with Jamie
Sam W 10/Apr/10 2nd
victim of mathematics 10/Apr/10 2nd O/S

Pitch 2 only. Much easier than it looks!

soph 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S
fennerz 14/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with Ed Booth and Will Nicholls
Ed Booth 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Top pitch only after rapping in. Great pitch. Got to second it again later to get out after retrieving gear from cardiac arete to allow fennerz to keep his onsight.

with fennerz and will nichols
Ed Booth 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Top pitch only after rapping in. Great pitch. Got to second it again later to get out after retrieving gear from cardiac arete to allow fennerz to keep his onsight.

with fennerz and will nichols
r.greaves 06/Mar/10 2nd
with steve coughlan
Alex Mason ??/2010 2nd β

Good fun with a macro feel.

with Herve
Hidden ??/2010 -
Ed Causton ??/2010 Lead O/S
soph ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
mr mills ??/2010 -
with joe chorley
simeclimb68 ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
MarkDavies36 ??/2010 -
Jim Slater 10/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Abbed in and climbed the top pitch only. Brilliant pitch worth 3 stars easy.

Hidden 10/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
barni 09/Aug/09 Lead β
with Strong Jon
mynyddresident ?/Aug/09 -
with geraint
Hidden ?/Jul/09 -
GScot38 ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
frost ?/May/09 AltLd
with D Garry
Tomprusk 26/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
with Dad
popov86 18/Jan/09 Lead
Hidden 06/Dec/08 Lead O/S
Carly 06/Dec/08 2nd O/S
with Richard
Hidden 19/Nov/08 TR
Brown 20/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Henry
Glyn 10/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Barni
barni 10/Sep/08 2nd
with Glyn
Keith Jones 22/Aug/08 2nd
with Graham
Hidden 15/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/08 Lead rpt
Lloyders 13/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with Sophie
pauldrew 06/Jul/08 2nd
with Kevin Sales
AndyGodber75 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Mills
stevepotter 26/May/08 2nd
paddygoodwin 26/May/08 Lead β
with Steve
nige 10/May/08 Lead
with richard kirby
Rich Kirby 10/May/08 2nd O/S

Top pitch only.

with Nige
Hidden ?/May/08 Lead
Hidden 23/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
Owain Llewelyn 20/Feb/08 Lead
with Dad
Hidden 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Sgt. Vest 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with james andy
Marcus ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 2nd
roberto18 ??/2008 -
Hawkscry ??/2008 -
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
sdawson1 14/Sep/07 2nd O/S

Ray led top pitch didnt do first pitch as its the same start as Olympic slab

with Ray
pete johnson 14/Jul/07 2nd
with Rob
Hidden ?/Jul/07 2nd O/S
mike bridges 24/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

got a bit lost route finding on pitch 1 (my lead!)ended up over to the right too much and reversed the traverse of sexual salami to finish at the belay on pitch 2!.Rob led the prize pitch & got a bit of drag at the top,(crux)good lead though,not an easy pitch!.

Tim W 27/May/07 -

Didn't find the route. ended up climbing veg in a gully

with Dylan Tomlinson
mattnuttall 22/May/07 2nd O/S

with Owen and Arek on a Ellis Brigham's staff trip

with Alan Holden
My Gravity 06/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Simon S
pete johnson 24/Mar/07 -
with Lun
climber sim ??/2007 -
Bob M 07/Sep/06 Lead
Hidden 27/Aug/06 2nd
Hidden 27/Aug/06 AltLd
DavidR 27/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
Mark Stevenson 26/Aug/06 2nd O/S
with Rich Mayfield
Hidden ?/Jul/06 2nd dog
Hidden 07/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Shaw Brown 28/May/06 AltLd

First pitch overgrown. Found out afterwards that everyone abs. in!

with Jeb
caradoc 07/May/06 AltLd O/S
with john b
Hidden 06/May/06 AltLd
IOAN D ?/Dec/05 Lead O/S
with gareth
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 20/Aug/05 2nd O/S
with Rebecca
Hidden ?/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
3 Names ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
samwelli 17/Jun/04 2nd O/S
with Steve Hobbs
Hidden ?/May/04 AltLd O/S
James B 12/Oct/03 -
with Phil
Hidden ?/Aug/03 AltLd
John Kettle ??/2003 AltLd
Hidden ?/Oct/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/02 Lead O/S
Pete Nugent 14/Jul/01 -
with Paul Hampson
DavidR 23/Jul/00 AltLd O/S
with John Marston
cem 02/Jul/00 Lead O/S

Led in one

with Graham Dolman, Miles Butteriss
kev davies ??/2000 -
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2000 AltLd
chris sm 06/Jul/99 AltLd O/S
with Ruth Taylor
Rob Davies 01/Jul/99 2nd

Harder than I remembered

Hidden 20/Jun/99 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1999 Lead
Chris Reid 04/Oct/98 Lead O/S
WB 12/Jun/98 AltLd O/S
with Paul
Pete Nugent 28/May/98 -
Hidden ?/May/98 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 17/Jan/98 Lead O/S

in the rain

with Al Willoner
Just Another Dave ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/97 -
five ?/May/97 Lead O/S
with CH, TW
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
nickdonohue 14/Jul/96 AltLd

horribly vegetated start, excellent thereafter

with Dave Chapman
Budge ?/Mar/96 Lead O/S
with Richard Teed
pete johnson 03/Feb/96 Lead
with Lun
GuyM ??/1996 -
chris sm 16/Jul/95 2nd O/S
with Duncan McLay
Alan James - UKC and UKH ?/Jul/95 Lead
with Henriette Louwerse
babymoac 20/May/95 Lead
with Grunt
Paul Boardman 25/Mar/95 AltLd O/S

My first HVS, courtesy of my dad :)

with Peter Boardman
pete johnson 12/Mar/95 2nd
with Andy Robinson, Bob Allen
Big Rik ??/1995 -
belay bunny turned bad ??/1995 -
alan moore ??/1995 -


Hidden 20/Aug/94 2nd
auld al ?/May/94 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/93 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/93 2nd
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Hidden 01/May/92 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/1992 2nd rpt
tlr 12/Oct/91 AltLd
with Cal
Hidden 16/Aug/91 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/91 2nd
Chris Wright 26/May/91 Lead
Hidden 14/Apr/91 2nd
andrew300169 ??/1991 Lead
with Pom
Hidden 03/Nov/90 Lead
Hidden 21/Oct/90 AltLd
Hidden 20/Oct/90 Lead
Hidden ?/May/90 Lead
whispering nic ?/May/90 -
with Tim PYB
andy gittins ??/1990 Lead
Bob ??/1990 -
biggianthead ??/1990 -
with HT
Hidden ??/1990 -
Paul Clarke ??/1990 AltLd
with FMC
mark-abz 04/May/89 Lead
with Phill R
michael burrows 23/Oct/88 AltLd O/S
with steve ward
Derek Ryden ??/1988 AltLd O/S
with Adam Wilde, Krishna
Hidden 21/Jun/87 2nd
Hidden 21/Feb/87 2nd
The Reaper 17/Aug/86 Lead O/S
Backinthegame ?/Jul/86 2nd
with Gary Hughes
Tim Bateman 05/May/86 2nd
michael burrows 27/Apr/86 2nd
with brian jones
steve taylor ?/Mar/86 2nd
with Nick Smith (BB)
Hidden 26/Sep/85 2nd
Hidden 05/Sep/85 2nd
tapley 01/Sep/85 Lead O/S
with Malc Otter
Hidden 26/Aug/85 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/85 2nd
Hidden 06/Apr/85 2nd
Mike Owen 24/Feb/85 2nd rpt
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 24/Feb/85 AltLd
Steve Crowe ??/1985 Lead O/S
Rob Davies 01/Jul/84 Lead
with Angus McLean
wynaptomos ?/Jul/84 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull ?/Mar/84 -
with Jim Thomas
Hidden ??/1984 Lead
Melok ??/1984 -
stp 15/Nov/83 Solo O/S
Hammy 11/May/83 AltLd
with Ian Barker, Penny Excel
AlanLittle ?/Jan/83 2nd

Led it in '88

with Sean Myles
Ian Jones ??/1983 -
AlanLittle ??/1983 -
kjacks ??/1983 Lead
with John Cousins
Hidden ??/1983 Lead
nigehughes ?/May/82 AltLd
with Phil James
Brian Wilderspin 15/Aug/81 AltLd
Neil McA 01/Jul/81 Lead O/S
with A bloke called Steve that i met in The Pass
Hidden 05/Apr/81 Lead
mitch1960 ??/1981 Lead
with Alan Dance
RichardMc 30/Nov/80 AltLd
with Dave Langmead
Nigel Bond 13/Jul/80 AltLd
with Ian, John
Hidden 06/Apr/80 2nd
daviesxxx ??/1980 -
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1980 Lead
ewar woowar ??/1980 Lead
Hidden ??/1980 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??/1980 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
rogerskews 01/Oct/79 AltLd
with Martin Coward
telemark ??/1978 Lead
with Len Marlowe
RichardMc 13/Nov/77 AltLd
with Tony Williams
Rob Davies 02/Apr/77 Lead
with John Bowes (CUMC)
Hidden 20/Mar/77 Lead
mikej 02/Jan/77 Lead
with Mike Mason
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1977 Lead
with Will Walker
Mike Owen 16/May/76 2nd β
with Sandy Doby
uphillnow ??/1976 AltLd

Did on MIC training week in group that included Tim Jebson who was running the course. Led many times since then

Steve Lewis 07/Dec/75 -
with Bob Powell
Bolt Phobia 15/Jun/75 AltLd
with John Young
gwedgwood ??/1975 2nd O/S
with Steve McEvoy
pneame ??/1975 -
granitbahn ??/1975 AltLd
Gordon Stainforth 11/May/74 2nd
with Tim Jepson, Dennis Whitely
Steve Clegg 24/Jul/73 AltLd
with Chris H
Dave Musgrove 01/Jul/73 AltLd
with John Midgley
Martin Bennett 30/May/73 -
with JD
Hidden 13/Mar/72 Lead
RichardMc 02/Jan/72 2nd
with Roger Everett
Seymore Butt ??/1970 AltLd
with Keith Roberts
mikej 17/Apr/68 Lead
with Humph Thompson
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 51
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 47
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set