Rockfax Description
Brilliant wall-climbing on excellent rock. Start in the centre of the wall at a boulder below a wide horizontal crack at 3m.
From the wide crack move onto the wall above via a pocket up and right. Follow the wall on good holds to the wide mid-height break of The Smile. Traverse the wide break left for 5m to below an old ring-peg in the upper wall. Climb the fingery wall past the peg to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The peg has been removed. There is adequate protection available.

FA. C. Nicholson 16.8.84 16/Aug/1984

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist, CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings.

Rooney90 05/Nov/17 2nd
danjouan 05/Nov/17 2nd O/S
harry_lewis 31/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Shaun
Ian MK 30/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Anna
Wood for Trees 30/Aug/17 2nd O/S

Very good, scary first move for short people

with Theo
Gabe Oliver 26/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Great wall climbing but i guess the ring bolt has now gone from the upper section cause I certainly couldn't see it. Bottom section not as tricky as it looks from the ground. Probably as hard as Break on Through but less sustained.

beni 05/Aug/17 2nd
with aiyer
aiyer 05/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Felt like a rock God!

with Beni
Hidden 31/Jul/17 -
tim whitaker 10/Jul/17 Lead

Pat gives E4, quite bold at the start - much more gear above the break & great positions! Solid E3 5c

with Liz Whitaker
Hidden 09/Jul/17 Lead β
Hidden 28/May/17 Lead
HeatherF 14/May/17 Lead O/S
with Nathan
nathanlee 14/May/17 2nd O/S

Nice, pegs a rust stump

with Heather
gritstone7 ?/May/17 2nd O/S
with HB
Sardien 17/Apr/17 2nd β

Lovely climbing, what a place! whole setting was a bit intimidating for me though

Flavio 13/Apr/17 Lead O/S
JendeHoxar 13/Apr/17 2nd O/S
with Flavio
Wendy 09/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Excellent route

with Gaz
Charlie Low 26/Mar/17 2nd dog
Dale Comley 26/Mar/17 Lead O/S

Really good. Went very direct at the finish much to my seconds joy

beni 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Jess
Jess Carr 17/Sep/16 2nd
with Beni, Rich Pollard
sparkass 10/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Phenomenal trad climbing. Taps Aff weather.

skelf 10/Sep/16 2nd

Best thing I've ever climbed!

with Dunc C
tim.fairhall 18/Aug/16 Lead dog

1 fall

with Richard
Luxulyan 18/Aug/16 2nd
Mike_Hayes 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
J.A.Thomson 17/Jul/16 TR rpt
J.A.Thomson 14/Jul/16 TR O/S
Macca_7 11/Jul/16 Solo rpt

A brilliant experience and one I have wanted to do since Stu nonchalantly soloed it one day when we were down there! Really enjoyable and such a great route!

dbrooks 23/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Will
Will Mortimer 23/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with Derwood
Ellis Bird ??/2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Oct/15 2nd
redjerry 02/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Robert Duran
EmilyElouise 16/Aug/15 2nd O/S
mattnuttall 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S


Hidden 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Dan Vaj 03/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Stu bradbury
Jackislav 19/Jul/15 Lead O/S
ferdia 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Misha 18/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Great route. Got up and left from the star shaped pocket to reach better holds. Easy middle section, then the crux above the Smile break - have to make some pulls above gear. E3 felt spot on.

Andrew Wilson 18/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Ferdia
benkelsey 10/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Total path! Felt super fresh at the top. Good effort on shauns first e3.

with Shaun Humphreys
shaunhumphreys 09/Jul/15 Lead O/S

First E3 sick route kept expecting a hard crux but seemed pretty steady!

Macca_7 29/Jun/15 Lead rpt

This route gets better every time you do it!

with Jim Newington
James Marshall 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with sash
Liam Ingram 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S
nickb1 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S
willackers 06/Jun/15 2nd β


with Rob Napier
phil64 26/May/15 Lead O/S

Great pitch felt like E2 if wraith is given E4! in Rockfax!!

with Ali Taylor
Spearos 25/May/15 Lead O/S
with Riggo
Hidden 10/May/15 Lead O/S
ollie_e 09/May/15 Lead O/S

Spectacular route!

red_rhodesha 09/May/15 2nd
tobydunford 09/May/15 2nd β
with Harry Martin
John Tanner 04/May/15 Lead O/S
gidmord 04/May/15 2nd O/S
with John Tanner
quiffhanger 11/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Another brill route.

with Rachel
adam 24 11/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Caroline
Hidden 11/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Pippa 31/Aug/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 31/Aug/14 2nd
mountain_jay 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S

brill. didn't feel too bad at all.

richsmithinbristol 31/Aug/14 Lead
with Pippa
chris wyatt 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Started wrong but after that was sorted (ie left of the star shaped pocket then up right) this was excelent

with rich
Hidden 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
tash 23/Aug/14 2nd

Amazing rock.

with ali k
AlexD 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Ed
Hidden 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
JM 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Stevo
Sarah Black 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/14 Lead O/S
markalmack 31/May/14 Lead O/S
with james marjot
Hidden 31/May/14 2nd O/S
Mr Tickle 17/May/14 2nd O/S
with RusseyB
Russell Blackaller 17/May/14 Lead O/S

Great line. One of the best on the wall.

with Rooker
Hidden 16/May/14 2nd
Luxulyan 04/May/14 Lead O/S
with Tim
tim.fairhall 04/May/14 2nd O/S
with Richard
alice fuller 04/May/14 TR O/S

2nd Woj oct2016

mike mo ??/2014 -
kingholmesy ??/2014 Lead O/S
with Mark the vet
Johnny Baker 20/Sep/13 AltLd
with Sam Richards
Hidden 10/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Graham Westbrook 05/Sep/13 Lead O/S
mike lawrence? 03/Sep/13 2nd
with FatRob
Hidden 08/Aug/13 Lead O/S
jas128 08/Aug/13 2nd β
Tala A 27/Jul/13 TR O/S
Dave Searle 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Tom Seccombe 28/Nov/12 Lead O/S
AJM 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Ace fun. Bottom felt a bit sketchy, smaller holds and fiddlier gear, then I just kept plugging away til the top. I love sport climbing fitness :)

belay bunny turned bad 18/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with loundsy
Hidden 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S
JeromeT 25/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Tom P, Ian
Hidden 24/Jul/12 Lead
Jen Crook 24/Jul/12 2nd
James Oswald 28/Jun/12 2nd O/S

pretty straightforward but good fun. ace

dohart 25/Jun/12 2nd dog

rested on rope twice - but reckon i could have done it if i could have got the gear out okay

with stu bradbury
Pete Graham 26/Feb/12 Lead
with Ben Silvestre
Bob ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
WB 29/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Guy
Ed Booth 16/Sep/11 2nd O/S

getting quite cold by the rain at this point.

Adam Booth 16/Sep/11 Lead O/S
GuyM ?/Sep/11 2nd
with will
soph ?/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Helena Robinson
Hidden 30/Aug/11 2nd O/S
dan gibson 30/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with michael porter
JRae 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/11 2nd
annetweddell 02/Aug/11 2nd
with Jeff
nicolat ?/Aug/11 2nd
with James Mitchell
climbergg 31/Jul/11 2nd
Tim M 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Emma
pete87abs 01/Jul/11 2nd O/S
DJayB 01/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Really amazing climbing. A walk in the park if you are strong or fit. Loads of amazing gear and plenty of opportunity to rest

jameshiggins 27/May/11 Lead O/S


with Neil Adams
Neil Adams 27/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/May/11 2nd O/S
Alasdair Fulton 27/May/11 Lead O/S

Back in the game! Cool route, great week!

with Burnsie
ellis 01/May/11 Lead β

Previously 2nd first half.

with Tom Holdsworth
Fran S8 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
liamoloughlin 24/Apr/11 2nd
PaulTanton 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Special Robin
Hidden 18/Apr/11 2nd
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Robin Warden ??/2011 2nd
with Tall Paul
Pippa 24/Oct/10 Lead
with Jon
chris j 26/Sep/10 Lead rpt

Fell off at the peg the day before & abbed for the gear, nice to get it this time!

with Doug
Dave Turnbull, BMC 26/Sep/10 2nd rpt

Led in mid-90s

with Rich Mayfield
pezzerrr 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Mike W 12/Sep/10 Lead β
Bristoldave 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/10 2nd dog
CarolineH 12/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Dave
Duncan Campbell 09/Sep/10 2nd
Hidden 09/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/10 Lead
Si dH 11/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Neil Furniss
Hidden 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S
BeccaSnowden 05/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Tom
thomasadixon 05/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Recommend not screwing up rope work right at the bottom and having drag all the way up! Wicked route.

with Becca
miastacey ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Bob Smith
Hidden 26/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Brown 17/Jul/10 2nd β

Got E4 in the Pat Littlejohn guide. I feel ripped off!

with Ben Lepesant
Hidden 17/Jul/10 2nd
Hidden 11/Jul/10 Lead β
Justin T 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Steady going on soft? Nice climbing, though!

with Cherry
Hidden 12/Jun/10 2nd
Legs 06/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with Macca
Macca_7 06/Mar/10 Lead rpt

What a route and so pleased to finally lead it clean after a failed onsite attempt and a second of Stu. Really good climbing on good holds bold to start then tricky to the peg!

Macca_7 10/Oct/09 2nd O/S

Such a class route which is pumpy but only one tricky section to the peg

with Stu Bradbury
Ed Babs 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins
Hidden 27/Sep/09 Lead rpt
Chad123 11/Aug/09 AltLd rpt

Emily cruised it especially top half - still an excellent steep wall climb with lovely moves. Not at all bold if you are clever with cams....

with Emily
Hidden 15/Jul/09 Lead O/S
ukb & bmc shark 29/May/09 Lead rpt

I thought the moves up right past the 'star' at 10 feet was the crux.

Toby Dunn 14/Apr/09 Lead
with Alex Hughes
Hidden ??/2009 -
sara n 10/Oct/08 TR
with Neville Contractor
Hidden 03/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/07 Lead O/S
alaan 23/Aug/07 Lead O/S


with Rich
eddy-on-the-rocks 06/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Ben
Chad123 06/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Classic wall climbing, in a great position on the top wall. Was pumped but just kept going!

with Jo and Vet Tom
Hidden 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/07 Lead β
richardr ?/Aug/07 2nd rpt
dannyboy83 14/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Marti999 07/Jun/07 Lead
Hidden 07/Jun/07 2nd O/S
Mark Davies PK 21/May/07 2nd O/S
with Fiend
Hidden 05/May/07 2nd
Mark Stevenson 05/May/07 Lead O/S
datoon 07/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with MJ
ecowaller 04/Apr/07 2nd O/S

second for nick...I had lead this route years ago so didn't remember it at all, great route

with Nick Arding
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
bronsonite 03/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Alex Cannon
Alex Mason 25/Jul/06 Lead O/S

even better and not much harder than out of the blue 4*. is this the best crag in the world.

beanfingers 17/Jun/06 2nd O/S

tricky bit at the top

with felix
feilx 17/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Crazy Tom
chris j 14/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with Ben Bradford
Hidden 11/Jun/06 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Dave-Westlake ??/2006 -
LC ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2005 Lead O/S
Gus 15/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with simon "the horse" wilson
Smelly Fox ?/Aug/04 2nd
cornishben ?/Aug/04 2nd O/S
with Mike Raine
Adam Ellwood 22/May/04 Lead O/S
with Praker
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Viv
pete johnson ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with Lun
Dave Musgrove Jnr 24/Jul/01 Lead O/S
with Viv
Billg 16/Jun/00 Lead O/S
with Roy Ruddle
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/99 2nd
Rich Kirby ?/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Robin
Hidden 06/Apr/98 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke ??/1998 -
with Nick Dalzell
duncan 15/Aug/97 Lead O/S
with Hugo Glover
Roget 16/Jun/97 Lead O/S
lowersharpnose 26/May/97 Lead O/S
with tombawimba
Derek Ryden 28/Aug/95 Lead O/S
with Jim Cheshire
GuySummers ??/1995 Lead
mattnuttall 19/Jul/94 2nd O/S
with Alan Holden
Hidden ??/1994 Lead O/S
FATBOYFAT ??/1994 -
with Dave Henderson
Alan James - UKC and UKH 05/Aug/93 Lead
with Phil Baker
Ian Jones ?/Aug/93 Lead O/S


with Karen Ghiselli
Steve Crowe 12/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with KM
whispering nic ?/May/92 -
with Graham Iles
clark alston ?/May/91 Lead O/S


Hidden ??/1991 -
Mark Kemball ??/1990 Lead
with Alison Dorey
45 users have this on their wishlist
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 52
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 52
Votes cast 45
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set