Rockfax Description
Brilliant wall-climbing on excellent rock. Start in the centre of the wall at a boulder below a wide horizontal crack at 3m.
From the wide crack move onto the wall above via a pocket up and right. Follow the wall on good holds to the wide mid-height break of The Smile. Traverse the wide break left for 5m to below an old ring-peg in the upper wall. Climb the fingery wall past the peg to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The peg has been removed. There is adequate protection available.

FA. C. Nicholson 16.8.84 16/Aug/1984

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist.

beni 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Jess
red quinnie 17/Sep/16 2nd
with Beni, Rich Pollard
andrewwightman 10/Sep/16 2nd

Best thing I've ever climbed!

with Dunc C
sparkass 10/Sep/16 Lead O/S
tim.fairhall 18/Aug/16 Lead dog

1 fall

with Richard
Luxulyan 18/Aug/16 2nd
Mike_Hayes 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
J.A.Thomson 17/Jul/16 TR rpt
J.A.Thomson 14/Jul/16 TR O/S
Macca_7 11/Jul/16 Solo rpt

A brilliant experience and one I have wanted to do since Stu nonchalantly soloed it one day when we were down there! Really enjoyable and such a great route!

dbrooks 23/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Will
Will Mortimer 23/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with Derwood
Hidden 18/Oct/15 2nd
redjerry 02/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Robert Duran
mattnuttall 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S


EmilyElouise 16/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Dan Vaj 03/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Stu bradbury
Jackislav 19/Jul/15 Lead O/S
ferdia 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Misha, Andrew Wilson
Misha 18/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Great route. Got up and left from the star shaped pocket to reach better holds. Easy middle section, then the crux above the Smile break - have to make some pulls above gear. E3 felt spot on.

Andrew Wilson 18/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Ferdia
benkelsey 10/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Total path! Felt super fresh at the top. Good effort on shauns first e3.

with Shaun Humphreys
shaunhumphreys 09/Jul/15 Lead O/S

First E3 sick route kept expecting a hard crux but seemed pretty steady!

Macca_7 29/Jun/15 Lead rpt

This route gets better every time you do it!

with Jim Newington
James Marshall 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with sash
Liam Ingram 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S
nickb1 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S
willackers 06/Jun/15 2nd β


with Rob Napier
phil64 26/May/15 Lead O/S

Great pitch felt like E2 if wraith is given E4! in Rockfax!!

with Ali Taylor
Spearos 25/May/15 Lead O/S
with Riggo
remus 10/May/15 Lead O/S

The warm up. Pretty sustained, certainly felt as hard as Break on Through to me.

ollie_e 09/May/15 Lead O/S

Spectacular route!

tobydunford 09/May/15 2nd β
with Harry Martin
red_rhodesha 09/May/15 2nd
gidmord 04/May/15 2nd O/S
with John Tanner
John Tanner 04/May/15 Lead O/S
adam 24 11/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Caroline
quiffhanger 11/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Another brill route.

with Rachel
Hidden 11/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Pippa 31/Aug/14 2nd rpt
mountain_jay 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S

brill. didn't feel too bad at all.

Hidden 31/Aug/14 2nd
richsmithinbristol 31/Aug/14 Lead
with Pippa
chris wyatt 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Started wrong but after that was sorted (ie left of the star shaped pocket then up right) this was excelent

with rich
Hidden 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
tash 23/Aug/14 2nd

Amazing rock.

with ali k
AlexD 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Ed
Hidden 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
JM 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Stevo
Sarah Black 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/14 Lead O/S
markalmack 31/May/14 Lead O/S
with james marjot
Hidden 31/May/14 2nd O/S
R2B 17/May/14 Lead O/S

Great line. One of the best on the wall.

with Rooker
Mr Tickle 17/May/14 2nd O/S
with RusseyB
Hidden 16/May/14 2nd
Luxulyan 04/May/14 Lead O/S
with Tim
Hidden 04/May/14 TR O/S
tim.fairhall 04/May/14 2nd O/S
with Richard
kingholmesy ??/2014 Lead O/S
with Mark the vet
mike mo ??/2014 -
Johnny Baker 20/Sep/13 AltLd
with Sam Richards
misterb 10/Sep/13 2nd O/S

very good , a bit awkward/dirty at the top.

with nick
Graham Westbrook 05/Sep/13 Lead O/S
mike lawrence? 03/Sep/13 2nd
with FatRob
jas128 08/Aug/13 2nd β
Hidden 08/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Tala M 27/Jul/13 TR O/S
Dave Searle 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Tom Seccombe 28/Nov/12 Lead O/S
AJM 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Ace fun. Bottom felt a bit sketchy, smaller holds and fiddlier gear, then I just kept plugging away til the top. I love sport climbing fitness :)

Hidden 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 18/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with loundsy
JeromeT 25/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Tom P, Ian
Jen Crook 24/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden 24/Jul/12 Lead
James Oswald 28/Jun/12 2nd O/S

pretty straightforward but good fun. ace

Hidden 25/Jun/12 2nd dog
Pete Graham 26/Feb/12 Lead
with Ben Silvestre
Bob ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
WB 29/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Guy
Adam Booth 16/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 16/Sep/11 2nd O/S

getting quite cold by the rain at this point.

GuyM ?/Sep/11 2nd
with will
soph ?/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Helena Robinson
Hidden 30/Aug/11 2nd O/S
dan gibson 30/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with michael porter
JRae 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/11 2nd
annetweddell 02/Aug/11 2nd
with Jeff
Hidden ?/Aug/11 2nd
Tim M 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Emma
climbergg 31/Jul/11 2nd
dj_brigham05 01/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Really amazing climbing. A walk in the park if you are strong or fit. Loads of amazing gear and plenty of opportunity to rest

pete87abs 01/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Alasdair Fulton 27/May/11 Lead O/S

Back in the game! Cool route, great week!

with Burnsie
Neil Adams 27/May/11 2nd O/S
jameshiggins 27/May/11 Lead O/S


with Neil Adams
Hidden 27/May/11 2nd O/S
ellis 01/May/11 Lead β

Previously 2nd first half.

with Tom Holdsworth
Fran S8 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
liamoloughlin 24/Apr/11 2nd
PaulTanton 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Special Robin
Hidden 18/Apr/11 2nd
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Robin Warden ??/2011 2nd
with Tall Paul
mwatson ??/2011 -
Pippa 24/Oct/10 Lead
with Jon
chris j 26/Sep/10 Lead rpt

Fell off at the peg the day before & abbed for the gear, nice to get it this time!

with Doug
Dave Turnbull, BMC 26/Sep/10 2nd rpt

Led in mid-90s

with Rich Mayfield
Mike W 12/Sep/10 Lead β
Bristoldave 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/10 2nd dog
CarolineH 12/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Dave
pezzerrr 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Si dH 11/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Neil Furniss
Hidden 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 05/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Recommend not screwing up rope work right at the bottom and having drag all the way up! Wicked route.

with Becca
BeccaSnowden 05/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Tom
miastacey ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Bob Smith
Hidden 26/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/10 2nd
Brown 17/Jul/10 2nd β

Got E4 in the Pat Littlejohn guide. I feel ripped off!

with Ben Lepesant
Hidden 11/Jul/10 Lead β
Justin T 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Steady going on soft? Nice climbing, though!

with Cherry
Hidden 12/Jun/10 2nd
Macca_7 06/Mar/10 Lead rpt

What a route and so pleased to finally lead it clean after a failed onsite attempt and a second of Stu. Really good climbing on good holds bold to start then tricky to the peg!

Legs 06/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with Macca
Macca_7 10/Oct/09 2nd O/S

Such a class route which is pumpy but only one tricky section to the peg

with Stu Bradbury
Ed Babs 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins
Hidden 27/Sep/09 Lead rpt
Chad123 11/Aug/09 AltLd rpt

Emily cruised it especially top half - still an excellent steep wall climb with lovely moves. Not at all bold if you are clever with cams....

with Emily
Hidden 15/Jul/09 Lead O/S
ukb shark 29/May/09 Lead rpt

I thought the moves up right past the 'star' at 10 feet was the crux.

Toby Dunn 14/Apr/09 Lead
with Alex Hughes
Hidden ??/2009 -
sara n 10/Oct/08 TR
with Neville Contractor
Hidden 03/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/07 Lead O/S
alaan 23/Aug/07 Lead O/S


with Rich
Chad123 06/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Classic wall climbing, in a great position on the top wall. Was pumped but just kept going!

with Jo and Vet Tom
eddy-on-the-rocks 06/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Ben
Hidden 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/07 Lead β
richardr ?/Aug/07 2nd rpt
dannyboy83 14/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Marti999 07/Jun/07 Lead
Hidden 07/Jun/07 2nd O/S
Mark Davies PK 21/May/07 2nd O/S
with Fiend
Hidden 05/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/07 2nd
datoon 07/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with MJ
ecowaller 04/Apr/07 2nd O/S

second for nick...I had lead this route years ago so didn't remember it at all, great route

with Nick Arding
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
bronsonite 03/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Alex Cannon
Alex Mason 25/Jul/06 Lead O/S

even better and not much harder than out of the blue 4*. is this the best crag in the world.

feilx 17/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Crazy Tom
beanfingers 17/Jun/06 2nd O/S

tricky bit at the top

with felix
chris j 14/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with Ben Bradford
Hidden 11/Jun/06 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Dave-Westlake ??/2006 -
LC ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2005 Lead O/S
Gus 15/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with simon "the horse" wilson
cornishben ?/Aug/04 2nd O/S
with Mike Raine
Smelly Fox ?/Aug/04 2nd
Adam Ellwood 22/May/04 Lead O/S
with Praker
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Viv
Dave Musgrove Jnr 24/Jul/01 Lead O/S
with Viv
Billg 16/Jun/00 Lead O/S
with Roy Ruddle
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/99 2nd
Rich Kirby ?/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Robin
Hidden 06/Apr/98 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke ??/1998 -
with Nick Dalzell
duncan 15/Aug/97 Lead O/S
with Hugo Glover
Roget 16/Jun/97 Lead O/S
lowersharpnose 26/May/97 Lead O/S
with tombawimba
Derek Ryden 28/Aug/95 Lead O/S
with Jim Cheshire
GuySummers ??/1995 Lead
mattnuttall 19/Jul/94 2nd O/S
with Alan Holden
Hidden ??/1994 Lead O/S
FATBOYFAT ??/1994 -
with Dave Henderson
Alan James - UKC and UKH 05/Aug/93 Lead
with Phil Baker
Ian Jones ?/Aug/93 Lead O/S


with Karen Ghiselli
Steve Crowe 12/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with KM
whispering nic ?/May/92 -
with Graham Iles
Hidden ?/May/91 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1991 -
Mark Kemball ??/1990 Lead
with Alison Dorey
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 48
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 48
Votes cast 41
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set