Rockfax Description
The wide crack/flake system on the left side of the face is a good climb that requires a lot of large cams and/or nuts. Start at the base of a ramp that rises leftwards to the flake-line.
Climb up the ramp to the flake/crack-line and follow it all the way to the top via some strenuous and committing moves. © Rockfax

FA. Keith Darbyshire 30.4.71 30/Apr/1971

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist.

BenRyle 11/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Ian Grobowski, Will Y
Hidden 26/May/17 Lead
poeter210 09/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/17 2nd O/S
Vinnyb 03/Apr/17 2nd O/S
with JA
JackM92 14/Jul/16 2nd O/S

Pretty good, worth more than 1 star! Enjoyable moves and non strenous, exciting exposure.

with Australian Dave
Jelly Mould Surfer 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Very nice. A bit (well quite a bit) run out in the the last 3rd

ewalker278 26/Apr/15 Lead
andrewmc 26/Apr/15 2nd dog

First outdoor (non-bouldering) fall? Just slipped off unexpectedly.

burto 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with hertha
nickstephens 22/Mar/15 2nd O/S
with Nick Donohue, Darcan
darcan 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with nick
nickdonohue 22/Mar/15 2nd

Take lots of big cams!

with Darcan, Nick Stephens
oscaig 18/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Climb itself pretty steady with a few intimidating moves. Bit of an epic getting out though when we got cut off in the zawn by rapidly rising (big) seas and partner was unable to prussik out...

kim.mulji 18/Oct/14 2nd O/S

Tide much higher than forecast (watch the wind direction), and so had to abseil in! We were more than two hours earlier than when the tide should have cut off the zawn, be warned! Climb much harder than it looks, as yes, there are some very committing (on a lead), and strenuous moves. At the top, the second should climb past the belayer, and then head inland, and up to the bunny-ear (less than 10m climbing), where they can set-up the abseil, on the lovely (almost still shiny new) chain! Quite an epic getting out of the zawn though, as I couldn't prusik back up the rope in the wet (it's hard to readjust the leg prusik when you are being buffeted by the waves!), and the tide was in much higher than expected (should have expected this really!). Gave up trying to climb the rope, and my mate managed, whilst I made myself safe up the chimney to the left looking from the sea. After almost drowning (don't try swinging back in on a dynamic rope, and expect not to drop much), and after finally escaping the system (only just in time) my climbing partner lowered me a harness on a rope, and I climbed up out via the chimney I had been in. Best to abseil down the back of the zawn in this chimney if there is much chance of needing to climb back up the rope to escape, as you can scramble up here, make yourself safe, and then prusik up the rope, though whilst waiting for my rescue a wave broke more than 2m over my head, and I was more 4m above the back bed of the zawn! You could lead this chimney at about VS/HVS 5a, or maybe better, lead up the end of the rib by the middle fin, there is a ledge at 3m, where your second can come up to, to get out of the water! Not fantastic top-outs on either of these escape routes, but protectable enough. A climb really isn't finished until you are back to safety!

kennythescot 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
5210Hill 06/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Kenny Brewster
supersouthward 06/Sep/14 -
with Alex moore
Lee_Meaden 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Luke Robinson
Hidden 02/Sep/14 2nd
AlexD 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Enjoyed this one, better than its neighbor.

with Ed
francois 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Big gear is handy, all the way to a camalot 6. The rock is quite suspect in places so the gear itself might not be so good. The climbing is steady though.

with David coley, Chawn
3kidsandanorton 21/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 31/May/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/May/14 Lead O/S
CurlyStevo 18/May/14 Lead

A nice 2 star pitch climbing wise on an excellent line so borderline 3 stars. Well protected if you have a good range of cams including some big ones although I did also use some hexes including a very large one. Not commiting or that strenous IMO - quite soft for HVS. The first 15 metres were the crux for me.

with clipskipper
clipskipper 17/May/14 2nd O/S

Less sustained than Lunakhod, but still worth the trip.

Hidden 04/May/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead O/S
si_pro_83 04/May/14 Lead O/S

First HVS lead! A lot of fun and not too strenuous...

with Liz
Dizz 04/May/14 2nd O/S

Si's first hvs

Hidden 23/Sep/13 Lead
Dilwat 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Some big gear needed but you can get away with smaller pro if you look around. Carried a number 4 camalot up and never used it. The big round pebble I took up off the beach however was very useful. Really enjoyed this.

SurferStan 14/Sep/13 2nd O/S

Great climbing :)

with Dilwat
Hidden 10/Sep/13 Lead O/S
crispycodd 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Made a mistake and started up Lunakhod. Half way up that traversed right across a quartz band onto Clawtrack. About 3/4 of the way up did not have anything big enough to use in the crack, so went old school and wedged a stone to put a sling round. The stone should still be there for others to use, or take out. Also pulled off a hold on the left, which hit Stephen! Traversed the top of the fin and abbed down Fay to recover the gear from a failed attempt at that.

masa-alpin 16/Aug/13 2nd β

Dave lead. A unique route! I enjoyed it. Though I didn't lead, I felt it is a soft and well-protected VS, as long as the leader carries lots of big guns.

with Dave W-J, Adele L
Hidden 27/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 06/May/13 Lead O/S
Steve Mooney 20/Feb/13 AltLd
Joel Perkin ??/2013 2nd O/S
with Big Rob
ejected ??/2013 -
Hidden 07/Sep/12 2nd O/S
gripped01 26/Aug/12 2nd
with Rimon Than
Hidden 25/Jun/12 Lead
Hidden 11/Jun/12 Lead
J.A.Thomson 14/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Hans
HansUDes 14/Apr/12 Lead O/S
adie84 ??/2012 -
dan gibson 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with michael porter
Hidden 01/Sep/11 2nd O/S
MoWalker3 06/Aug/11 2nd
with Quiet Ian
Hidden 28/Jun/11 Lead
Carol Goodall 27/May/11 2nd
jonnie3430 27/May/11 Lead O/S
with Carol
climbingpixie 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Andy
Hidden 23/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
arandall 02/Sep/10 Lead O/S
benkelsey 02/Sep/10 2nd O/S

felt loose, but good.

lrandall 14/Aug/10 2nd

Felt spicy even as the second. Well graded.

tommytuffa 09/Aug/10 2nd

In the rain

with ollie b
Phil PBC 31/Jul/10 -
with henry castle
Ed Babs 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins
Dave Thompson 09/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Peter Roberts
Dave Rumney 12/Jul/09 2nd
with Tanya Milner
Hidden 24/Jun/09 2nd
Hidden 24/Jun/09 Lead O/S
uncontrollable 13/Jun/09 2nd β
with Viskii
Hidden 13/Jun/09 Lead
duncan 24/May/09 Lead O/S

Well protectable with a big rack of (mostly) big hexs and cams. "Beefy" according to my partner.

AJH 19/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with Crispin
Justin T 28/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Crispin
Hidden 04/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
Mark Kemball 31/Aug/07 Lead
with Nic Dill
Hidden 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S
mrtom 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Roger lead Clawtrack, I lead Lunakhod

with Roger HSmith
riddle ?/Aug/07 Lead
with Tom Elliot
brian watson 10/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with scott and gary
ecowaller ??/2007 -
Macca_7 08/May/06 Lead O/S

Good route on massive but slightly suspect holds

with Oli Raymond-Barker
Dave-Westlake ??/2006 -
rockpool ?/Sep/05 Lead
with pol
nige pacer 07/Aug/04 Lead O/S
rockpool 03/Sep/03 2nd O/S
with zin
Hidden ??/2001 -
sadams 13/Aug/00 Lead
with John Boyle
Boxy 03/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with Chris
Hidden 02/Jun/00 2nd O/S
tompercy ?/Apr/00 -
with Random Rich
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
andy_pemberton ??/2000 Lead
with Zoe Billinghurst, Rich Mayfield
CraigMac1 ??/2000 -
nickdonohue 30/Aug/99 2nd
with Ashley Hold
Hidden 06/Jul/97 Lead
mikej 01/Jun/97 Lead
with Nick Salmon
colin milton 17/Jul/94 Lead
with eric milton
Hidden ??/1994 Lead
Hidden 06/Sep/92 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/91 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/91 Lead O/S
Chris Ebbutt ??/1990 Lead
Derek Ryden 18/Nov/89 Lead O/S
with Andy Forbes
Ken Taylor 01/May/88 AltLd
with George Diprose
eroica64 24/Apr/88 AltLd

Titing stuff.

with Denis Crampton
Hidden ?/Apr/88 Lead
Andy Chadwick ??/1985 AltLd O/S
Mike C 06/Jun/82 AltLd
with Chris Davis
Chris Terrey 11/Jun/81 Lead
with Gerry Dunford
Martin Bennett 23/Jul/80 -
with JD
mark-abz 04/May/80 AltLd
with Rob S
Hidden 10/Aug/78 Lead
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 24
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 23
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set