2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fingery exercise on excellent rock that requires a determined approach. Start just left of the arete below an old ring peg at 5m.
1) 5b, 17m. Gain the peg and some good small wires just above. Traverse left with difficulty for 5m on small holds to an easing at a thin vertical crack. Climb the crack and move rightwards to a large belay ledge. A good and slightly easier alternative (Logic 5b) moves up right from the old ring peg onto the blunt arete and follows the arete to the large belay ledge.
2) 5a, 16m. Move up and stand on a block on the left, peg. Step right into an open groove and climb it past some poor rock and a very wobbly but keyed-in small block to finish on easier ground. © Rockfax

FA. I. McMorrin 1965

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs.

hornbywill 05/Jan Lead O/S

Not sure if I followed the exact line

felixwilkins 22/Oct/17 Lead rpt

P1 only

Tom Hill 15/Oct/17 2nd O/S
Cbulman 15/Oct/17 Lead dog
R0BJ0N 08/Oct/17 Lead O/S
with Dan Adlington
EcoClimber 01/Sep/17 2nd

Maybe my hardest climb. Slipped at first gear placement, but stayed on. Then climbed the traverse & top section clean. Stunning lead by Seb.

with Seb Boulder Bunker: Paignton
Hidden 14/Jun/17 2nd dog
brian watson 14/Jun/17 Lead G/U

Tough sequence going left shortly after the start. Rested on gear first try. Pulled ropes and restart.

Pete Burgess 20/Apr/17 2nd
with simon tong
sinbad 20/Apr/17 Lead

Two rests / falls. Hard work but persevered - good rock 2 above peg - place after moving up! High foothold and friend 1 on traverse. First E1 lead for a long time - things are improving - slowly........

with Pete
Hidden 18/Mar/17 Lead dnf
Hidden 18/Mar/17 Lead G/U
Wendy Watthews 18/Mar/17 AltLd O/S

Lead p1 Henry took p2. Fun traverse, place feet and trust them the hands are positive.

with Henry H
JoeCoxson 17/Mar/17 Lead G/U

Took a lob from the traverse first time, properly nails. Gear is tricky but at least the peg held ...

omaskrey 17/Mar/17 2nd
felixwilkins 11/Mar/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Jan/17 AltLd
Luke90 15/Aug/16 Lead dnf

Only got as far as the first peg after lots of up and down indecisiveness. Couldn't commit to any the polished footholds. More like E2 5c with the polish but that could just be sour grapes.

with Liz
Adam Hill 14/Jun/16 2nd
with Simon
Hidden 06/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Doug miller 12/Oct/15 2nd
Doug miller 29/Sep/15 Lead rpt
with Alex Rowe
Jackislav 11/Sep/15 Lead O/S

1 pitch, cool route, progressively more uninspiring towards the top

LanceSolf 11/Sep/15 Lead β
with Duncan Potts
ferdia 29/Jul/15 2nd
Andy Moles 29/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Ferdia
Hidden 05/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/15 2nd
alice fuller 26/May/15 Lead β

gear beta.felt nervy..but foot holds get better as traverse pfogresses

Brian H 24/May/15 2nd rpt
nickdonohue 15/May/15 2nd
with Andy Bisson
andy_pemberton 22/Apr/15 Lead
stephen ashworth 07/Mar/15 Lead
with Alex cox
snook 07/Mar/15 2nd β
FATBOYFAT ??/2015 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
Rory Bascombe 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Tom Newberry
OllieF 28/Aug/14 AltLd RP

Great route, love it!

with Ant
Lee_Meaden 09/Jul/14 Lead β
Hidden 05/May/14 AltLd
gg4419 04/May/14 2nd dog

Slipped twice and came flying off!

nickstephens 04/May/14 Lead O/S

P1 only as P2 didn't inspire :o)

Dean Russell 03/May/14 Lead O/S
tobydunford ?/Apr/14 2nd dog
with Harry Martin
Dawlish 24/Feb/14 2nd
lawsy_boy1 ??/2014 Lead
Tom D ??/2014 Lead
alice_loudon 07/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Mungo, Geoff
paultaylor 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Jimbo
bryan61 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S

done in 1 pitch, quite tricky

with graham
Hidden 13/Jul/13 2nd rpt
Dan 85 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Daz
ferdia 04/Jul/13 Lead
with Hertha Taverner-Wood
andy_pemberton 03/Jul/13 Lead

Lovely. P1 only.

with Sarah Massey
metal arms 27/May/13 Lead O/S
joedoherty 04/May/13 Lead dog
with Mike Irving
LDJ 07/Apr/13 Lead
with Lou
Hidden ?/Mar/13 AltLd
Luxulyan 02/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Got to peg, got pumped sorting gear and looking for holds, down climbed and then did it in one. The traverse is brilliant, shame the feet are a bit polished.

with Callum
callum brown 02/Feb/13 2nd
with Rich
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
arandall 08/Sep/12 Lead dnf

Got just above the peg then backed off after a fall, next time :)

EmilyElouise 23/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

lead p2

Hidden 22/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Ed Babs 18/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with AlexD
AlexD 18/Jun/12 2nd
with Ed
Mr Powly 02/Jun/12 Lead
sam.hann 17/Apr/12 AltLd
Davebryant 17/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Mr Tickle 17/Feb/12 Lead dog

Bit of a whipper on this one, came off unexpetedly at end of the traverse and had to lift my legs

with davenev
davenev 17/Feb/12 -
with luke
Ed morris 02/Feb/12 Lead

backed off a year ago. Felt smooth on lead today. First pitch only.

with ewan
burto 10/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with jerome
Ian Hughes ??/2012 -
Toby Dunn 05/Oct/11 2nd
with Sophie Nunn
Sophie Nunn 05/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Toby
RossT 01/Oct/11 TR

brilliant route, pockets and a continental feel

with Andrew Edwards
Mike_Hayes 11/Sep/11 2nd
Mr Sparkle 11/Sep/11 Lead O/S
MH123 30/Aug/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 16/Aug/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead dog
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
just one more 16/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with tony l, Svenn G
Hidden 16/Jul/11 2nd β
Aaron Phillips 28/May/11 TR O/S

amazing climb! the best i have ever climbed.

with my dad
chris j 07/May/11 Lead rpt
with Ben Bradford
tom169 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Jerome
Hidden 21/Mar/11 Lead O/S
JonHarvey 21/Mar/11 AltLd

P2 clean o/s

Bristoldave 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Harry
Hidden 06/Mar/11 2nd O/S
crimpy69 08/Jan/11 TR β
nick99 25/Oct/10 AltLd

left the hard first pitch to sam...

with Sam W
Sam W 25/Oct/10 AltLd

Led P1

Hidden 17/Oct/10 2nd
jellyfish82 25/Sep/10 2nd O/S
JonBrown 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Tiff
TiffTiff 04/Sep/10 2nd β
benkelsey 29/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Si dH 15/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Neil Furniss
Hidden 31/Jul/10 Lead β
JonHarvey 30/May/10 Lead β

Stepped one move from logic on a prev attempt and bailed. Saw a friend lead it and saw holds abbing off after Chudleigh O'hang ... Awesome! 1st pitch only.

langar27 30/May/10 2nd
pezzerrr 02/May/10 Lead O/S
thomb ?/May/10 Lead
nblackbeard 30/Jan/10 Lead RP
nblackbeard 12/Dec/09 Lead dog

Unfinished business

with Hartmut Erzgraber
adam cooper*super* 27/Oct/09 Lead O/S
37degrees 28/Jul/09 Lead RP

good tec little climb

with J.Baker
Macca_7 13/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Neat little route only did the first pitch and lowered off so Dave could do the direct on the rope. Tricky traverse left then romp to the ledge.

sinbad 07/May/09 Lead
with Pete
Jack_F 25/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Max hodges
Hidden 13/Apr/09 Lead rpt
mike88 06/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Dave Powlesland
MH123 05/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 04/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 04/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/08 2nd O/S
Justin T 25/Jul/08 Lead RP

Got it clean second time round.

with Rich
Justin T 22/Jul/08 Lead dog
with Crispin
richardr ?/Jun/08 AltLd RP
Hidden ??/2008 -
dewrats ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Oli Boyes , Dave Searle, Chris Barr
sharmawho? ??/2008 2nd O/S
with Oli, Chris, Nick , Dave
Dave Searle 21/Sep/07 Lead O/S
tonanf ?/Jun/07 2nd
with james
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
climber sim ??/2007 -
eddy-on-the-rocks ??/2007 Lead O/S
nathanmanc 02/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Chris Todd
Mark Kemball 26/Feb/06 2nd
with Nic Dill
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 Lead
JeromeT ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Ben1983 ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
chris j ??/2005 Lead
Hidden 15/Mar/03 Lead RP
jmhood ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Richard Everson
Roget 04/Jun/00 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
CraigMac1 ??/2000 -
Hidden ?/Sep/97 Lead G/U
John Mcshea ??/1997 Lead
colin milton 10/Aug/95 Lead
with eric milton
leadmat ?/Jul/95 Lead
ellie macpherson ?/Jul/95 Lead O/S

Polished 1st pitch, 2nd a bit mental with lots of undergrowth all the wayup the overhanging groove

with Bob Smith
tuftynick ??/1995 Lead
with ben winston
tompercy 14/Dec/94 Lead
with Amos Preminger
Hidden 16/Jul/94 Lead O/S
kristian 28/Feb/94 Lead
pmot ??/1994 -
jcw ?/Mar/92 -
with John Walters
Hidden 15/Aug/90 Lead O/S
Mickdenali ??/1990 Lead
Derek Ryden 08/Aug/89 2nd rpt
with Krishna
Derek Ryden 31/Jul/89 Lead O/S
with Ron Buckley
steve taylor ??/1989 Lead O/S
with Eamonn Flood
Hidden ??/1989 Lead
Pete Nugent 20/Jul/88 Lead

Climbes as "Gagool Original", as described in the 83/85 guide

davidalcock ??/1988 -
with Philip Scorer
clark alston ?/May/86 Lead O/S

1st pitch.

Ena ?/Mar/85 Lead β
Hidden 16/Feb/85 Lead O/S
DDDD ??/1985 -
ukb & bmc shark 21/Apr/84 Lead dog
with Minky
Steve Lewis 04/Apr/83 2nd
with Alun Richardson
mark-abz ?/Jun/81 Lead
with Dave S
Hidden ??/1981 -
babymoac 16/Aug/80 Lead
with MTW
Hidden 20/Oct/79 Lead
Steve Bell ??/1979 -
D Tempest 01/Jul/78 Lead O/S
Simon cook ??/1978 -
Simon cook ??/1974 -
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High E2
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High E1
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Votes cast 35
High 5c
Mid 5c
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High 5b
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High 5a
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Votes cast 36
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
Ground Up
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