Rockfax Description
A popular though highly-polished wall climb that has a tough initial section. Start in the centre of the face below a small crescent-moon shaped crack at 4m.
Climb up past the crack to a ledge on the right at mid-height. Climb the crack and wall above to the top. © Rockfax

FA. c.1960s 1965

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

DavidH89 26/Aug/17 TR
with Pete
Hidden 05/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Jim blackford 01/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Gear is actually rather good

Chrissy202 14/Jul/17 2nd dog
with Andy
timorme 26/Jun/17 TR dog
with Dan Isaac
mark schramm 07/May/17 -
Pete Burgess 26/Apr/17 2nd
with simon tong
sinbad 26/Apr/17 Lead

Head torch ascent! Pete tried but backed off so I did it - nice end to the evening and first head torch ascent for a while - good training for the alps....

with Pete
LDJ 21/Apr/17 TR
with Alfie
Fakey Rocks 17/Apr/17 Lead O/S

5a? Pumpy getting the gear in... On polished footholds. I don't understand the direct start photos? I went direct... It is a direct start... is it a right hand variation missing the 1st gear? The lefthand start is indirect... The photos might be a joke!

with Skip
Skip 17/Apr/17 2nd dog
G Weatherley 10/Apr/17 2nd
with Ed Walker
DCIGadget 05/Apr/17 TR RP
timreynolds 05/Apr/17 TR O/S
DanDevey94 28/Mar/17 Lead
timorme 28/Mar/17 TR rpt
with kayley Jefferys
Lizard Ollie 18/Mar/17 Lead dog

The route is so polished I could see myself gurning in the reflection of the crimp. Unpleasant.

with Cal Pearson
phil456 15/Mar/17 TR O/S
with Graham M
Hidden 19/Feb/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Dec/16 TR
Steve Jehu 17/Oct/16 Lead
Hidden 17/Oct/16 2nd β
Rob Moorcroft 29/Jul/16 Lead
Hidden 29/Jul/16 2nd
jamesb101 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Rhyd
Vorlette 15/Jul/16 2nd
with Will
WilliamRupp 15/Jul/16 Lead O/S
foxjerk 08/Jul/16 TR O/S

eliminated the right hand arete. harder than direct!

with wiwwim
bren361 10/May/16 TR rpt
Lee_Meaden 03/May/16 Solo O/S
stephen ashworth 27/Apr/16 2nd
with Ian hendy
Wilkie210685 26/Apr/16 TR O/S
with Jenka
Jenka sennikova 25/Apr/16 TR O/S
with Paul
Danpyke79 21/Apr/16 TR
jacklut 20/Apr/16 TR O/S
alice fuller 04/Dec/15 TR O/S
derryclimbs 26/Sep/15 TR

top-roped, but should have lead it

10029759 19/Sep/15 Lead
Benjaminblanc 19/Sep/15 Lead β
with Joe Andrews, Jonathan Axford
hairy51 19/Sep/15 2nd
AndyMorrall 11/Sep/15 Lead

First lead after shunting the route a couple weeks ago

Hidden 23/Jul/15 TR RP
Dan-Raven 16/Jul/15 TR
Danhan 09/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Jackislav 05/Jul/15 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/15 Lead
frostage 23/May/15 TR RP

First step into grade 5 territory

Hidden 07/May/15 TR
SteveoS 26/Mar/15 Lead G/U

Lead clean after putting in a cam and climbing down. Very polished but a good confidence booster for a VS climber.

with Chris Joyce
Hidden 26/Mar/15 2nd O/S
LanceSolf 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Rob Moorcroft 15/Mar/15 2nd
with Richard Ive
JoelVJ3 09/Jan/15 TR dog
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden 29/Dec/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Dec/14 TR O/S
Hidden 09/Nov/14 TR
Hidden 09/Nov/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 02/Sep/14 TR
Hidden 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S
OllieF 30/Jun/14 2nd rpt

Up to the easy part to remove gear then got lowered down to save the walk!

with Ant
OllieF 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S

First VS in a while! Fun route!

mpcfowle 05/Jun/14 TR dog

Awkward climb, I will conquer this next time!

Darrell Read 25/May/14 2nd
Hidden 25/May/14 Lead β
tobydunford 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Hidden 09/Mar/14 Lead RP
Hidden 09/Mar/14 Lead
Tom Seccombe 26/Feb/14 Solo O/S
with max goodman
jamiegee97 ??/2014 Solo O/S
emmafromSB 16/Nov/13 2nd dog

It was very dark. And wet. I missed the feet on the traverse and swang to beneath a bit of an overhang. Error.

with Matt Robinson
Hidden 10/Nov/13 TR rpt
petecallaghan 27/Oct/13 Lead rpt
with Josey Field
Chris dyer 02/Aug/13 TR RP
with Jack Hunter, Josh sims
josh.sims 02/Aug/13 TR
Russell Blackaller 01/Aug/13 Solo O/S

The second VS route I have done at Chudleigh clinging on to a mono. Interesting start.

with Nick B
martin clarke 16/Jul/13 Lead rpt
stephen ashworth 16/Jul/13 2nd
with martin clarke
paul reah 24/Jun/13 TR O/S

polish polish polish, squeeze hard, polish squeeze, done, would not fancy the lead!

with Tim Orme
Hidden 19/May/13 Lead dnf
Graham Atkins 12/May/13 Solo
Hidden 02/May/13 2nd O/S
kennythescot 02/May/13 Lead
with Markwww
Dale Turrell 29/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Finn C
stephen ashworth 06/Apr/13 Lead
with caroline blackmore
Ian Miller 06/Mar/13 2nd dog

Fell off without shouting "take" first, I guess that's some sort of improvement.

Cheese Monkey 06/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Just about better than staying at home. Just

with Ian M
Hidden 25/Feb/13 TR O/S
Johnbsmith 22/Feb/13 Lead O/S
timorme 09/Jan/13 TR RP
with Alex Frosty
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
rustaldo 25/Jun/12 2nd O/S

Damp and polished. Good lead from Hinchy.

Hinchrn 25/Jun/12 Lead

Very polished, making the first gear placement a little dicy

wezzie 23/May/12 Lead β
with Luke Steel
Orifice 15/May/12 TR O/S
timorme 01/May/12 TR dog
with Alex Frosty
Hidden 31/Mar/12 TR
Chris_gowing 29/Feb/12 TR
Laura Parker 19/Feb/12 Lead

Tricky start

Mr Tickle 17/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with davenev
davenev 17/Feb/12 2nd O/S
with luke
FrancescaFord 15/Jan/12 TR

Very polished, quite delicate. Pleased I did it without a fall. Prob my max whilst still being comfortable on polish. First top-rope outdoor climb...oooh.

crazymadfool 15/Jan/12 -
Debs 13/Nov/11 2nd
with Karl
UnkArl 13/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Fairly polished at the start but not too bad. First decent piece of gear is after the crux (which is the first couple of moves); it's pretty much all over after that. Nice route.

with Debbie
Hidden 12/Nov/11 TR
Will Hodges 21/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Angusmc
Frostie 16/Sep/11 Solo
stephen ashworth 27/Aug/11 Lead
with martin clarke
Angusmc 08/Aug/11 TR O/S
with Jay cromwell
berry 11/Jun/11 TR O/S
nick hawkins 28/May/11 -
Hidden 17/May/11 Lead
Wildstyle 14/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/11 Lead
NathanC 1994 28/Mar/11 TR O/S
BelayBunney 20/Feb/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 20/Feb/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Feb/11 TR O/S
Hidden 04/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
ewanthomson 18/Jan/11 2nd RP
Ed morris 18/Jan/11 Lead O/S

Truly terrible route.

with ewan
Ed Lau 15/Sep/10 Lead
with MarkV21
francois 15/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Chris
Hidden 09/Sep/10 TR
georgedunton 09/Sep/10 TR
mike_lumby ?/Sep/10 TR
f.kav 09/Aug/10 TR
petecallaghan 21/Jul/10 Lead O/S
sofe13 10/Jul/10 TR

Loved it!

with Kilve Girls
henbot 21/Jun/10 Lead O/S

guide description is pretty poor

with Keith Lackie
Hidden 19/Jun/10 TR O/S
richardadventurecafe 12/Jun/10 Lead

Not too sure about the route finding - book is pants in terms of description... rubbish! But made it up as best we could!

with Neil Sperrings
cripper 04/Jun/10 TR

A good sequence of moves to make in order to get up. Would like to solo it after a few more TR sessions to ensure I have the moves nailed.

with Ben
jeremyvanr 04/Jun/10 Lead RP
Hidden 04/Jun/10 TR O/S
Hidden 27/May/10 2nd
Jimma 19/Apr/10 TR RP
with Matt
Matt02003 ?/Apr/10 TR O/S
with James
Hidden 11/Mar/10 TR
harry40740 07/Feb/10 TR O/S
markv21 ??/2010 Lead RP
MH123 ??/2010 -
jmhood ??/2010 -
Noodles 29/Aug/09 Lead
sthame 29/Aug/09 2nd
jamessandels 28/Jun/09 2nd
with Chris Sandels
Kate Edhouse 12/Feb/09 TR
with Haven banks
Popkids 24/Jan/09 TR

Pete lead the route then set up a top rope.

with Kafoozalem & Nolan
Kate Edhouse 09/Jan/09 TR O/S
with Shunted
Jack_F ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 TR O/S
Marti999 15/Dec/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 05/Nov/08 TR rpt
andrew549 01/Nov/08 TR O/S
RobSteere 25/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Lida
Reeges 13/Oct/08 Lead O/S
marksrhodes 09/Oct/08 2nd O/S
with Ben Rhodes and Nick Saunders
Macca_7 07/Sep/08 Solo O/S

Reasonably good surprisingly

Hidden 27/Aug/08 TR rpt
richardr ?/Aug/08 Solo O/S

up down up down up up

tom169 03/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Rob
Hidden 31/May/08 Lead O/S
LaybackLizzie 31/May/08 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
ijd201 ??/2008 -
dewrats ??/2008 Lead O/S
Chris_barr ??/2008 2nd O/S
with Harry
Hidden ??/2008 2nd RP
Hidden 23/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Noodles30 ?/Sep/07 TR
sharmawho? 20/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Oli, Chris, Nick , Dave
Hidden 07/Apr/07 2nd
climber sim ??/2007 -
Hidden 09/Sep/06 TR O/S
Jon_Warner 08/Sep/06 TR O/S
with Jonny
Hidden 17/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Macca_7 13/Mar/05 Solo O/S

Getting a touch shiny!!

JeromeT ??/2005 Lead O/S
Ben1983 ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
charlesmfrench 08/Jun/04 2nd O/S
with Simon Howe
MontyH 23/May/04 Lead O/S
with Paul Milton
bazzag ??/2001 Lead
with james
northerngreg ??/2001 TR
Hidden ??/2000 -
Steveb27 ??/2000 AltLd
Hidden 05/Jul/99 Lead
Hidden 21/Feb/99 Lead dog
Hidden 18/Feb/99 TR
Hidden 24/Aug/98 2nd
Hidden 24/Aug/98 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/97 Lead G/U
colin milton 07/May/94 TR
with eric milton
tompercy ?/Jul/93 Solo
Derek Ryden 04/Feb/90 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Mickdenali ??/1990 Lead
davidalcock ??/1988 -
with Philip Scorer
Hidden ??/1987 Lead
Hidden 27/Dec/85 Solo O/S
Ena ?/Jun/83 Solo β
Mike C 04/Mar/81 TR
mark-abz 07/May/79 TR
with Mick D
Steve Bell ??/1979 -
Mike C 16/Jun/78 TR
Mike C 05/Mar/78 TR
Mike C 04/Mar/78 TR
Simon cook ??/1978 -
Simon cook ??/1974 -
Bolt Phobia 09/Sep/73 TR
Steve Woollard ??/1972 Lead
Hidden ??/1970 -
4 users have this on their wishlist
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 24
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set