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Climbing at Chudleigh Rock is an inherently dangerous activity and climbers should be aware of the risk of personal injury and death. The landowner (The Clifford Estate), is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but requires that all climbers using the crag have 3rd party liability insurance cover up to £10 million. This is an integral part of BMC or MCofS membership or can be obtained elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover.

Fixed equipment on the crag has not been installed by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and is not the responsibility of The Clifford Estate Company Ltd. Please be aware that the fixed equipment is not checked or maintained by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and the Clifford Estate Company Ltd accepts no liability for the death or injury of any person involved in climbing arising from fixed equipment failure.

Do not light fires - in the past this has caused damage to plants and the local bat colony, and could gain climbers a poor reputation if it happens in future.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 4 April to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

A nesting owl has been reported near Stalactite Direct - avoid this and nearby routes until the young birds have fledged (likely to be in mid-late June). 
21m.

Rockfax Description
A great little route with a big reputation - best not attempted in humid conditions, when the polish will make it feel a whole grade harder. Start at a corner-crack 5m left of the cave, as for Leek. Climb the slick corner-crack to a large ledge at 3m. Place some bomber wires and pull steeply up the wall then rock up left onto the steep slab. Continue up the fine steep corner directly above and pull onto a large ledge. Belay possible. Move up easily leftwards before climbing directly to the top. © Rockfax

FA. E.Rayson 1961.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , South Devon Stars: Diff - HVS , The South Devon Time Machine (Part I)

Feedback

User Date Notes
Lykul 27 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Super polished crux(es) but great gear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Super polished crux(es) but great gear.
lighty 10 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: pretty sure this was my 2nd lead,after the green mantle,a bit hairy commiting to the 1st bulge after the ledge,but once on top the climb was easier.still not 100% certain of the route.{maybe some of twang?}
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: pretty sure this was my 2nd lead,after the green mantle,a bit hairy commiting to the 1st bulge after the ledge,but once on top the climb was easier.still not 100% certain of the route.{maybe some of twang?}

Logged Ascents

668 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Chudleigh Rocks - South Face

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 63
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 56
Votes cast 49
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Devil's Slide

Grade: HS 4a ***
(Lundy)

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