2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The top pitch takes the rounded crack in the centre of Needle Buttress' upper wall. Start on the mossy slabs with a small wilting tree at 5m.
1) 4c, 22m. Climb the slab right of the tree to a block beneath a steeper wall with a thin left-leaning crack. Follow this and the wall and cracks above to belay on the left-hand tree.
2) 5a, 14m. Take the rounded crack on the headwall to a tricky move right. Move up and right to a groove that leads to the summit. © Rockfax

FA. F. Cannings, B.Shackleton 1964

Ticklists: Kernow, West Country Climbs.

badgerjockey 28/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Me p2. Possibly climb of the weekend. Steeper than it looks at the bottom. Rising traverse of great at the top (don't go the the roof). Tricky gear though.

danieleaston 28/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Led p1. Good moves on rounded holds, with unsatisfactory gear. p2 was great, would like to lead.

with Harry
Sime64 27/Aug/17 2nd dnf

Attempted after much much faffing to find start. Anna backed off low on P1 sketchy gear and moves.

with Anna Vojnits
Lumbering Oaf 19/Jun/17 AltLd O/S


with Tom P
Hidden 19/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
Mangmu 19/Apr/17 2nd
with Nicky bell
Benjaminblanc 16/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
Gregory Gibas 09/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

Led the 1st pitch. Rad the 2nd. Definitely best route on the crag. Watch out the moving block on top of slab!

with Rad
minexplorer 09/Apr/17 AltLd

brilliant lead from gregory as it was well above the grade he said he leads the strenuous top bit

with gregory
Hidden 23/Jan/17 AltLd
Hidden 01/Jan/17 Lead
jhobbs 26/Oct/16 2nd
with Pete Belfield , Charlie chambers
Ed Hastings 19/Oct/16 Lead O/S

No right boot!

with Justin Nicholas
petecallaghan 03/Aug/16 Lead dnf

*** WARNING: The block at the top of the slab on P1 is now moving *** Do not place cams behind it. Do not pull outward on it. Not so much fun in after a couple of days of rain, with intermittent light showers. The mossy slab was even more slippery than usual and the head wall at the top of the slab greasy where the lichen was seeping. I backed off.

stuartf 03/Jul/16 AltLd dnf

Not sure if we were on route for the first pitch. Didn't fancy committing to the crux on the second so ended up on the Camel instead

Adam Hill 22/Jun/16 AltLd
with Nick Foulds
Snowbones 22/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with Adam
kateharborne 01/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Completely messed up the first pitch - unsure of the line! (And followed a nice ascent, probably more S/HS up the right of the face...)

chrismadar 01/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/May/16 Lead O/S
Jelly Mould Surfer 30/Apr/16 AltLd

More like 5a 5b

Tom Seccombe ?/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Harvey
Hidden 21/Nov/15 2nd
Hidden 01/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Hartz 01/Sep/15 AltLd

Lead first Pitch, then moved onto last pitch of Needle Arete (VD)

with twill
katherinesydney 16/Aug/15 TR O/S
with neil morbey
Rob Moorcroft 22/Jul/15 2nd
with Richard Ive
Phil79 08/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1, it felt pretty bold. Small gear (0.25-0.5 cam and poor rock 1) is possible at first horizontal break after end of rising traverse which makes things feel a bit less bold. Good route.

with Steve H
crispycodd 30/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Led P1, Stephen led P2. After a bit of a mossy start this is a nice route. P1 is a bit like climbing on gritstone i.e. rounded holds. Not much gear on P1.

foxjerk 30/May/15 Lead O/S

Finished up last pitch of the camel. Didnt mean to climb this!!

clubmanpete 21/May/15 AltLd

Lead second pitch

Jackislav 27/Jan/15 Lead O/S

Climbed in one pitch

Hidden 10/Jul/14 2nd dnf
Hidden 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
callum brown 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

I did 2nd pitch - found tough to place gear just before crux. 1st pitch quite sustained and run out in the middle - good lead Paul!

with Paul
Hidden 11/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/May/14 AltLd O/S
Piers Harley 03/May/14 AltLd
with Richard Apthorpe
stephen ashworth 12/Apr/14 Lead

Lead the first pitch then we finished off doing the second pitch of the camel.

with Ian hendy
Hidden 17/Mar/14 Lead
Hidden 13/Mar/14 2nd
Hidden ??/2014 -
stevorobs3 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/13 AltLd
gg4419 06/May/13 AltLd O/S
nickstephens 06/May/13 AltLd O/S
LDJ 20/Apr/13 Lead
with Lou
Cheese Monkey 10/Dec/12 Lead β

Quality route, really enjoyed it. Lead first pitch after partner retreated from the damp headwall. Lovely moves up. Really enjoyed the traverse out right on p2, as soon as you commit it seems impossible to reach the arete, but just keep on going and you'll get there!

with Iain
Westcorkman 24/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Bob Dawson
stephen ashworth 01/Jun/12 AltLd
with martin clarke
martin clarke 01/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

lead first pitch

BelayBunney 15/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

I lead P1, Fx lead P2

francois 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Underwhelming and overgraded and would get VS in Bosigran! Pitch 1 was ok (led by Chris) and P2 was very easy and shortlived. One star is pushing it for this route.

with Chris
Ed morris 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S

superb, shame it not longer. ran it out slightly on second pitch. straightforward but probably 5a.

with joe
joedou 01/Apr/12 2nd O/S
MinHazeldine 23/Sep/11 2nd
minexplorer 02/Sep/11 AltLd

led 1st pitch dave 2nd pitch.this has got to be the best route on the crag.serious stuff

with dave88
Dave 88 02/Sep/11 AltLd β

Great route. Balancy 1st pitch. I lead 2nd pitch and had beta on a crucial hold, hence don't feel right claiming the O/S.

kiwi boy 30/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Great lead by richard. Tough gear. The 4c move on the first pitch felt tougher than the 5a on the second.

with richard williams
minexplorer 25/Jul/11 AltLd

jordan 1st pitch me 2nd lovely bold climb great moves at top

with jordan
Jordon Fleming 25/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

lead 1st was good climbing on flat holds.

Lauren Davies 02/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with John Tanner
John Tanner 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

One move wonder! Approached via first pitch of Needle Arete

with Lauren Davies
nickdonohue ?/Jul/11 Lead
with Pete Merrick
nickdonohue ?/Jun/11 Lead dnf

Did pitch 1, started to rain, abbed off.

with Pete Merrick
waydan ?/Jun/11 AltLd dnf

I only led the first pitch on this.

Hidden 31/May/11 AltLd dnf
Hidden 31/May/11 AltLd dnf
Hidden 18/May/11 2nd
petecallaghan 18/May/11 Lead O/S

A quality route as an onsight with no beta. The start was very mossy and required gardening to reveal a small crack in order to protect the first slab. It took me a while to figure out the likely route up the steep wall above the slab on the first pitch. Delightful climbing from this point on, all the way past the airy crux on the second pitch. Fabulous setting to belay from as the sun set.

with Emma Grant
tobydunford 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
CptRicActiv ??/2011 Lead β
minexplorer 13/Aug/10 Lead

because of the run outs i practiced the moves beforehand self belaying with a gri gri.v satisfying lead quite technical moves on top pitch delicate on 1st pitch

jcook1980 23/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Homes 23/Jul/10 AltLd
with Jonny C
luke sherratt 13/Jul/10 2nd
DanLear 25/Aug/09 AltLd
with Al McPhierson
Steerpike 20/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Bish
Popkids 03/May/09 AltLd O/S

I climbed the 1st pitch.

with Baz
Phil79 22/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Lovely moves on P2. Great climb. Peg mentioned in guide no longer there, although pro is fine without.

with Graham
graham knott 22/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

First pitch. One fall. Run-out in a couple of places! Seriously good glimb!

with Phil Webber
mreynolds 26/Jul/08 2nd O/S
timreynolds 26/Jul/08 Lead dnf

Pitch 1 only

JonHarvey 27/May/08 AltLd O/S

brilliant. great (if scary) run outs on both pitches, probably best route on buttress

Hidden 27/May/08 AltLd O/S
nutcracker ?/May/08 Lead

first pitch

with Field
cem 09/Apr/07 2nd
Kirill 09/Apr/07 2nd
Tim Steward 11/Nov/06 AltLd rpt
with Torran Elson
zcapxa5 12/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Dave Ross
ducle 12/Aug/06 2nd O/S

Grand central station ledge got abit busy at the end of first pitch!

Peter Swift 06/Aug/06 2nd
with john.w
Macca_7 14/May/06 Lead O/S
with Joris
leadmat ??/2006 Lead
leadmat ??/2006 -
Hidden 18/Sep/04 Lead O/S
PenJD 03/Jun/02 Lead dnf

First pitch felt pretty unprotected, didn't feel confident to do second pitch

Hidden 01/May/02 Lead
Hidden ?/Feb/02 AltLd O/S
Frostie ??/2002 Lead
with various
Hidden ?/Aug/01 Lead O/S
andy_pemberton ??/2000 Lead
climbingrichard 08/Aug/96 Lead O/S

The day that we had to see a man have a bad fall on fry on the wall. Lee

timreynolds 11/Oct/95 AltLd
with John Burnip
JiveWeasel 25/Jun/95 -
with Creaky
colin milton 19/Jul/94 AltLd

lead p2

with eric milton
climbingrichard 10/Jul/94 Lead O/S

1st pitch only

Marti999 ??/1992 Lead
Nigel Coe ??/1991 -
with Norman Wright
Hidden 04/Mar/90 Lead O/S
Chris Ebbutt ??/1990 Lead
Hidden 27/Jul/83 Lead O/S
Steve Bell ??/1979 -
Simon cook ?/Aug/76 -
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 17
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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