80m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Dartmoor's enduring classic gives sustained and engrossing climbing on perfect rock. Start at a short, square-cut pillar below a steep flake-crack.
1) 5b, 16m. Climb the short pillar to beneath the bulging and rounded flake-crack. Forceful moves into and up the crack are then followed by a delicate and technical traverse right to a hanging belay on nuts and a tied-off chickenhead.
2) 5a, 20m. Traverse a short way rightwards and climb a flake-crack and the insecure drainpipe above to easier, slabby climbing and the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
By popular UKC demand this will remain at E1 for now!

FA. D.Bassett 1961 15/Jun/1961

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, Ultimate E1 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, Memorable Climbs, Extreme 2018.

Dr Toph 29/Nov/17 Solo O/S

Cold! Especially the upper section, which made the drainpipe feel like the crux. Cool varied route though

Hidden 19/Nov/17 Lead
ClimbingAlex 04/Nov/17 Lead rpt
Cbulman 04/Nov/17 2nd rpt
Hidden 27/Sep/17 Lead O/S
foobar123 27/Sep/17 2nd dog

Got way too pumped removing gear at the start and fell a couple of times. I guess it's a pretty decent route if you can climb it properly though!

Jess Carr 25/Sep/17 Lead O/S
with Ade
StuartBlackler 23/Sep/17 Lead O/S

In one, good climbing

with Chris Bulman
James Oakes 29/Aug/17 Lead O/S
trouserburp 27/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Lovely day, beautiful line

with V
The Screaming Finn 19/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route, both pitches excellent in their own way. Led P2

Carl 19/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Excellent route. Had some entertaining faff from doing it as a 3, the hanging belay was good fun.

with Rob S, Rog
R0BJ0N 19/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Steve Price
LoneDeranger 16/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Quality. Chickenhead takes 3. Plenty of gear on second pitch for my taste

with Tom, The Box
Hidden 16/Aug/17 AltLd
Lumbering Oaf 16/Aug/17 2nd rpt

Great climbing. I may have made the traverse to the chicken head a little harder after an obvious crystal I was standing on popped out under my weight. Managed to hold on when my foot went but almost lost a bollock to the harness... ouch! :'(

with Tom P
Digga 13/Aug/17 2nd rpt
Marl 13/Aug/17 TR O/S

On mini traction

Euan Todd 13/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Digga let me lead both pitches, jolly decent of him! First pitch is great, thuggy into a delicate traverse - you just need to keep staring at the slab until the footholds appear. Had in-situ runners from Dred's earlier attempt on Rhinoceros. Second pitch was also fun, a bit easier. Soft E1 I reckon.

with Digga
Hidden 05/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
joeramsay 16/Jul/17 Lead O/S

First E1 boyyyyyy. Super cool climbing all the way

with Sophie
sophie wilson 16/Jul/17 2nd
Hidden 15/Jul/17 2nd O/S
mark schramm 15/Jul/17 2nd rpt
with pete
petecallaghan 15/Jul/17 Lead rpt
with mark schramm, Jeremy
Phil79 14/Jul/17 AltLd rpt
with Steve H
Tom courtiour 02/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Dale Turrell 20/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Led P2.

with Finn C
ollie1 18/Jun/17 Lead rpt
cymjt 18/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 17/Jun/17 Lead rpt
with Nick Colton
Davros the Psyched 25/May/17 Lead

Proper punter action

with Mark
Hidden 24/May/17 Lead rpt
crater 24/May/17 2nd

slipped off once taking gear out

with mike
Jack Porteous 21/May/17 AltLd rpt
spidey 21/May/17 Lead O/S
with Hazel
ClimbingAlex 21/May/17 AltLd O/S

Led P1 - awesome. Probably worth e1 but soft for grade.

Hidden 14/May/17 AltLd
Pete Burgess 23/Apr/17 2nd
with simon tong
sinbad 23/Apr/17 Lead

Lead both pitches - felt good. Lovely route.

with Pete
DredStripe 22/Apr/17 Lead rpt

led both pitches, no falling out of the drainpipe today. :)

Digga 22/Apr/17 2nd O/S

Seconded both pitches. Very neat hanging belay with Dred :)

keepguessing 21/Apr/17 Solo rpt

Been a while since i last did this, couldn't remember what to do with my feet on the slab

m.powell02 17/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Strung the pitches together. Dropped my medium wires at the chicken head and had them thrown back up to me. Great fun!

gem_stone12 17/Apr/17 2nd O/S
with Matty P
afterthesend 08/Apr/17 AltLd O/S


with Sam P
samparsons 08/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Denoir 01/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
Matt Harle 25/Mar/17 AltLd O/S
alexm198 25/Mar/17 AltLd O/S


gem_stone12 ?/Mar/17 2nd O/S
nimajneb ?/Mar/17 Lead rpt
Flavio 19/Feb/17 2nd O/S
JendeHoxar 19/Feb/17 Lead O/S
with Flavio
BenRyle 15/Feb/17 2nd dog

Had to rest to get some very awkward gear.

with Kim, Ian Grobowski, Charlottte
nimajneb ??/2017 2nd O/S

Matt made short work of one of his first E1's. Had previously lead a link up so not really an OS.

ricci.andrea86 ??/2017 -
Cbulman ??/2017 AltLd O/S
kingholmesy ??/2017 Solo O/S
Matt Amos 28/Dec/16 Lead rpt
Wendy Watthews 05/Nov/16 AltLd O/S

Lead p1, initially tried jamming to get established in the crack but a layback worked far better. The traverse is lovely. Jake lead p2.

with JakeB.
Hidden 05/Nov/16 AltLd O/S
ollie1 26/Oct/16 Lead dog

Rested at start. Damp!

with lee johnson
LDJ 26/Oct/16 2nd
with Ollie
Adam Hill 29/Sep/16 AltLd

Lead P2

with Simon
mattjackson84 25/Sep/16 -

First pitch only then retreated due to very heavy shower!

with Ben
Hidden 20/Sep/16 2nd
jezb1 20/Sep/16 Lead

In a oner which made the last easy bit hard due to rope drag!

Rhys Deane 18/Sep/16 AltLd RP
with Sam Russel
guy757 16/Sep/16 -
Sam O'Rourke 10/Sep/16 2nd O/S

Fancy Dress - Bomber Jacket for Matt, Trench Coat for myself. A real good laugh and great climbing.

jonathan_doyle 10/Sep/16 Lead O/S

My first E1 lead - quality route right at the top end of my limit right now - tough getting into the two crack systems but worth the struggle!

with Leon Hammet
Matt Amos 10/Sep/16 Lead rpt
with Sam O
Leonhamnett 10/Sep/16 2nd
with JD
jeremyvanr 01/Sep/16 2nd rpt
with Marc Thorp
FelixJT 31/Aug/16 AltLd
WilliamRupp 31/Aug/16 AltLd
with felix
Alex the Alex 30/Aug/16 AltLd rpt

Lead P1 this time. Such a great climb. A very enjoyable hanging stance.

with Rog
Hidden 29/Aug/16 Lead rpt
RKirke 29/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Alex T
HannahC 16/Aug/16 2nd dog
Hidden 16/Aug/16 Lead
Hidden 19/Jul/16 Solo rpt
Brian H 17/Jul/16 Lead rpt
with Martin Dunning
EcoClimber 13/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Disappointed I had 1 rest on the traverse. My seconder said "E1s are quite easy, I seconded one last month." I got to the 1st belay & heard the shout " I can't get off the ground ". Lol... After some nifty rope work, I lead the 2nd pitch as well, then abseiled (twice) to get the gear back.. Nice warm up!

with Nat Rees
Paul Baller 10/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with matt stevens
keepguessing 03/Jul/16 Solo rpt

Very chill

AMJ098 25/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with Dan Geh
Dan Geh 25/Jun/16 Lead O/S
keepguessing 21/Jun/16 Solo rpt

Very different from my solo ascent of berryheads moonraker, filmed on my go pro, if you need beta.

jamesb101 12/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Fantastic route!

with Rhyd
richy85 01/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with George, Paul
LDJ 29/May/16 Lead
with Lou
stuartf 25/May/16 Lead rpt
JulesClimbs 24/May/16 AltLd

Paul P1, Me P2

with Paul
keepguessing 08/May/16 Lead G/U

Had to ab off last time, did the traverse though the flake was far to mossy and damp, heavy fog makes moss lethal!! Really fun easy climbing, only had nuts so the entire last pitch was un protected, must come back and solo.

with sam
AndyMorrall 06/May/16 2nd

with andy bisson

dbrooks 04/May/16 Lead rpt

led both pitches, forgot my cams which made the first pitch a bit harder. Loads of faff trying to swap over gear etc. at the chicken head belay! I remember the top pitch being a little run out and scary but was fine, found loads of gear this time

with Gareth
steve-grigg 23/Apr/16 Lead O/S
elliptic 23/Apr/16 Lead O/S

In one pitch. Went straight up the flake past the usual traverse line and across the next break instead.

with Dawn
GHawksworth 23/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 25/Mar/16 Lead rpt
Tristan Sherlock 23/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
with Haigh
ABCD ??/2016 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2016 -
Lumbering Oaf 12/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

P1. Luca P2. Lovely climbing and a great traverse and belay at the tied-off chicken head. Bit soft for 5b?

with Luca
tcn_2002 27/Sep/15 Lead
Hamish777 26/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

A really good P1 lead by Andrea. P2 was good, just a little thin for gear in the runnel. My first E1!!

with Andrea
andrea83 26/Sep/15 AltLd RP

Great route. Lead P1. Foot popped off unexpectedly nearish the bottom and took a small fall! Lowered down and did it from the bottom again clean without rest/fall. Found the traverse much easier than expected. Hamish did great leading P2.

with Hamish
Graham Westbrook 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Led both pitches

mattkemp70 ?/Sep/15 2nd
with Westy
David Clover ?/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hartz 31/Aug/15 2nd

Twills' first O/S E1

with twill
Hmgslade 29/Aug/15 2nd dog
with Jack
Hidden 29/Aug/15 Lead rpt
Spearos 17/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Master Chief 17/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Nathan Chrismas 08/Aug/15 2nd dog

Found this a bit tough getting up the crack at the start. More oomph required.

with Lucas F
spgibbs 02/Aug/15 2nd dog

Came off on the traverse, bugger.

Jackislav 02/Aug/15 Lead rpt

1 pitch, much more fun

LRob 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/15 2nd rpt
LanceSolf 16/Jul/15 Lead G/U
Will7777 16/Jul/15 2nd
Phil79 01/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Fantastic route.

with Steve H
Hidden 27/Jun/15 2nd dog
Pete Randall 27/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Alex, Chris P, Seb
No? Yes! 27/Jun/15 Lead
Hidden 27/Jun/15 2nd dog
cdpuk 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Felt sustained. Did in one pitch but would advise against due to rope drag. Top out is much further away than it looks.

mreynolds 24/Jun/15 2nd dog
timreynolds 24/Jun/15 Lead
Matt77 20/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Done as one long pitch.

with Shane
islandlynx 20/Jun/15 2nd
LanceSolf 16/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Duncan Potts
Rob Davies 15/Jun/15 AltLd

Hardest bit is traverse R - starting crack is OK and P2 is easy

with Dave Nicol
Hinchrn 14/Jun/15 AltLd dog
with Tom
Adam Hill 10/Jun/15 2nd

Peeled off 3 times. Too pumped at beginning after getting position wrong. Needed to commit more. Then off again on traverse, needed to get feet right.

with Simon
martin one 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Markus
Hidden 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/May/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/May/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/May/15 AltLd rpt
Will Mortimer 27/May/15 AltLd O/S
surf1nal-kern0w 25/May/15 AltLd O/S

Woop Woop. First E1 lead P1. or it is a HVS! I don't care. Thanks to great encouragement from partner. Once that Hex was in I was on it. What a traverse! Fantastic. Topped off with a hated hanging belay at Chicken head. all Good. We finished P 2 in Windy conditions as usual on Haytor

clubmanpete 25/May/15 AltLd

Done first pitch to gave that to my buddie... finally got to lead the second pitch with half a cam in the drain pipe.. felt solid enough once compited to it....

supersouthward 23/May/15 -
matt_read 23/May/15 2nd O/S
Bargate_Champ 04/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/15 AltLd β
Caspian Johnson 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Great climb!

Hidden 09/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/15 Lead
andycash 08/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with chris day
petecallaghan 08/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Scott, Josey Field
Andy Moles 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Ferdia
ferdia 05/Apr/15 2nd
cornishben 07/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
with Rich Draisey
Longsufferingropeholder ??/2015 Lead O/S
nickstephens 30/Dec/14 2nd dnf
with Alex choo-choo-arse Moore, Jordon
Jack Porteous 07/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch

tombushell 06/Dec/14 2nd
with Ed
Stroppy 06/Dec/14 Lead O/S

Absolutely Incredible route, done as 1 pitch, just wish I could have felt my hands on the traverse!!!

Hidden 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S
C coldwell-storry 24/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with jake Rodgers
LDJ 18/Sep/14 Lead
with Tom
Brian H 14/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with Martin Slater
David Staples 13/Sep/14 2nd dnf
Hidden 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Tom Seccombe 08/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with James Arding
Lee_Meaden 05/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Luke Robinson
foxjerk 24/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Lead the first pitch and hoping it stays an e1 as its my first! Necky moves to reach the traverse which was easier than expected, then the runnel on p2 needs a bold head.

with wiwwim
Hidden 02/Aug/14 Lead dog
LauraTejada ?/Aug/14 2nd

Need a strong confident second. Traverse is delicate and if your unfit after the first pulls, you can just fall across like I did ;-)

Hidden ?/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 30/Jul/14 AltLd rpt
climbhannahclimb 30/Jul/14 2nd O/S
nickstephens 30/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Jay Jackson, Hanna Philips
pheotleyr 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Rich
Hidden 22/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
clmacdonald 19/Jul/14 2nd
DredStripe 19/Jul/14 AltLd RP

P1:2nd, P2 led with a fall out of the drainpipe.

tskelhon 19/Jul/14 Lead O/S
John Tanner 16/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
dbrooks 16/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

led pitch 2

with John
Dilwat 15/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches. Tough start and traverse is thin if you go low. Good varied route.

with Dave P
Alex the Alex 13/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Awesome! Two brilliant pitches and no real signs of wear considering their popularity. Led pitch two as the sun went down.

Jenny Dart 13/Jul/14 2nd
Robin Woodward 13/Jul/14 AltLd

Great route in an amazing position! Lead P.1. Got into the crack fine, but faffed for a bit with gear and sussing out options before finally committing to the traverse. A great end to a poor day of climbing for me.

with Alex
Ewan Russell 10/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Tom Nichols
Chaman 05/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

I led first pitch. First crack was really tough, traverse was great!

Hidden 05/Jul/14 AltLd rpt
kennythescot ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
elyben 27/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden 25/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Sophie Nunn 24/Jun/14 AltLd O/S


with Gid
gidmord 24/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Lead second pitch

ewanthomson 22/Jun/14 AltLd

Fantastic! Led P1, Will P2. Getting into the first crack was a struggle! Lovely traverse!

Will Mortimer 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Ewan Thopson
Gabe Oliver 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Two pitches as one. A little on the soft side of E1

Hidden 05/Jun/14 2nd rpt
Vincej 27/May/14 2nd
with Nevil
Hidden 27/May/14 Lead
waydan 26/May/14 Lead O/S

Great climb, strong climbing in places, had a great laugh with Swifty all the way up.

lmacey 26/May/14 Lead
with Pete campion
clubmanpete 26/May/14 AltLd

A very random decision to have a bash at this and never really thought we would get up it... but was buzzing that we did and in style may in add... cracking climbing!!!!

with lmacey
Hidden 17/May/14 Lead dog
Hidden 15/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May/14 2nd
John Pickles 14/May/14 Lead O/S
Kirill 05/May/14 Lead β

Climbed it again in an attempt to fight off the demons after a somewhat traumatic ascent the day before.

with Dina
Martin Bagshaw 04/May/14 Lead O/S

Ran pitches together. Topping out on a granite dome was reminiscent of yosemite. Tad bit more moss though!

ipegg 04/May/14 2nd
alp79 21/Apr/14 2nd

Great route, not easy

ashtond6 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Led as one, felt benchmark E1 with mossy damp cracks & rope drag

snook 19/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Been on my wishlist since last year but was not confident enough to lead it. Stoked with the onsight of Pitch 2. Alex smashed the delicate traverse

James Oswald 14/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Done in one pitch with the second pitch of rhino. Totally and climbing. Then did the first pitch of think into the second pitch of this. Totally ace, though I fell off both of rhino's crux moves..

with lex
James.helm 30/Mar/14 2nd dnf

Struggled with traverse across to hanging belay. sketched out

Jack J Keogan 30/Mar/14 Lead dnf

First pitch clean onsight, james struggle with crux as hasn't been climbing for months so lowered off the anchor and ab'd from the top to reclaim gear form the anchor. Also reclimbed and down-climbed until the traverse to get gear form the route back. Looking forward to going for it again.

s.thursz 26/Feb/14 2nd
Hidden 26/Feb/14 Lead O/S
lawsy_boy1 ??/2014 Lead O/S
Tom D ??/2014 AltLd
cathymiller 06/Oct/13 2nd
Hidden 06/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/13 Lead rpt
KDhruev 19/Sep/13 Lead O/S
gg4419 14/Sep/13 AltLd rpt

Lead pitch 1.

nickstephens 14/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Jackislav 13/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Matt Amos 12/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Did in one pitch with a single rope. Insane rope drag!!!!

Hidden 02/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Norman_P_W 22/Aug/13 AltLd
with Bob M
Bob M 22/Aug/13 AltLd

Led pitch 1. Varied and sustained climbing, perfect rock and a superb setting.

zcsharp 03/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Ollie Stevens
Hidden 03/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 09/Jul/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 09/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/13 2nd
jonlord ?/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
theocelano 21/Jun/13 2nd
with luca
LJC 21/Jun/13 Lead

Now with in-situ gold wallnut. P1+2.

with Theo
alice fuller 07/Jun/13 Lead β

1st E1 lead - led both pitches. Previously seconded Will 2010.lead 1st pitch againJuly 2016.Brilliant slide along nut at the beginning of the traverse that i wouldn't have noticed before.

bryan61 06/Jun/13 2nd O/S

done in 1 pitch

with andy
Russell Blackaller 05/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2. First multipitch lead on the moors.

with Justin
esther ?/Jun/13 Lead
Westy 31/May/13 Lead O/S

Led both pitches - my first E1!

danJBA 30/May/13 Lead O/S

One pitch

Kayan 30/May/13 2nd
metal arms 25/May/13 2nd
dodfoster 25/May/13 AltLd O/S
Ed morris 06/May/13 AltLd O/S

I led the second pitch, the flake at the belay sounds hollow.

with Colin
stephen ashworth 06/May/13 2nd
with john frost, martin clarke
martin clarke 06/May/13 2nd
tim.fairhall 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S

As 1 pitch

with Matt
nickstephens 02/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Shaun McCance
Jack.Luckhurst ??/2013 Lead β
Grabtheslab ??/2013 -
willhornby ??/2013 -
Cheese Monkey 11/Nov/12 2nd O/S

Fun fun fun! Not so fun having numb feet on the delicate traverse and second pitch. Iain took a nice whipper and landed next to me on the hanging belay

with Martin, Iain
willbatho ?/Nov/12 Lead O/S
hornbywill 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S

did it in one no hanging belay

shoulders 20/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

lead fiset pitch. Went for 2nd in one long runout but rope drag,lack of gear and exhaustion stopped me.

with pete lewis
Hidden 06/Oct/12 AltLd dog
Mr-Cowdrey 06/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
with chris ridgers
tim exley 21/Sep/12 Lead dnf

Going so well until Ben couldn't do the traverse. Lowered off n

with ben padbrury
Hidden 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/12 Lead
Ed Babs 19/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

P1. Really really good.

with Mike Hawkins
Infinite Granite 10/Aug/12 Lead dog

Awesome climb, took a tasty little fall on it but finished both pitches on lead in the end. Perfect weather.

with Joey
Davebryant ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
sam.hann ?/Aug/12 2nd
cbeard 28/Jul/12 2nd dog

Didn't finish as I'd burnt out and could no longer climb... Better luck next time!

with Jamie
zcsharp 28/Jul/12 Lead dnf

Did the first pitch clean onsight, Charlie was exhausted after working on the flier for most of the time were there and couldn't finish seconding the first pitch, having no chance of leading the second pitch we had to bail.

with Charlie
Doug miller 28/Jul/12 Lead rpt
with alex steele
Sean Kelly 23/Jul/12 Lead

3* climb and quite sustained at the grade. Done in one long runout. Brilliant pro & beautiful weather!

with Harry Pearce
Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 20/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Brian H 19/Jul/12 2nd rpt
with Andy Pemberton
andy_pemberton 19/Jul/12 Lead

Done in one pitch.

with Brian Hannon
Stanners 15/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Top pitch. What a route!

Quarryboy 15/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Second E1 of the day although I think it is just HVS, fantastic climbing with both thuggish and delicate moves as well an exposed belay to top it all off. Drinks of cider all round upon success. (led pitch 1)

Hidden 08/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 08/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Motown 04/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Second pitch.

with Erik
French Erick 04/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with will
Chris Ebbutt 04/Jul/12 AltLd

lead first pitch

with Dave C.
tom169 01/Jul/12 2nd rpt
with Jerome
Hidden 24/Jun/12 AltLd
yarbles 19/Jun/12 AltLd

Second pitch - (easier than first)

with James
smollett 19/Jun/12 Lead

Jurga refused first pitch after a brief attempt. Waited ages for oliver to be free to second it.

dohart 19/Jun/12 2nd
with stu bradbury
efrance24234 13/Jun/12 Lead O/S

In one pitch. The runnel bit was wet so felt E1for sure.

Michael Aylen 09/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch

with Kris
mbradberry2008 26/May/12 Lead dnf

Some back issues early on in the route so down climbed and removed the gear, am coming back for this!

with James Mccann
francois 24/May/12 Lead β

Probably HVS and not E1. Done in one big pitch. Previously seconded the first pitch. It still feels pretty delicate on the traverse, teetering on small crystals for feet. The runnel pitch was excellent, nicely exposed and good flowing climbing! Didn't think the second pitch was run out.

with Ben
mark schramm 24/May/12 2nd rpt
with Andy G
mark schramm 06/May/12 AltLd

Led 2nd pitch

with Anthony
Anthony Dixon 06/May/12 Lead

Both pitches.

Doug miller 04/May/12 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches

with alex steele
Alex Steele 04/May/12 2nd
guy757 16/Apr/12 -
Oddjob 16/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Ramon
rustaldo 08/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

A cracking route! I lead pitch 1, hanging belay was good fun.

with Jordon
Jordon Fleming 08/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with matt
Tristan Sherlock 30/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Elaine Budden 30/Mar/12 2nd rpt
with Tristan Sherlock
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Mr Tickle 24/Mar/12 2nd rpt
with Max Railing
burto 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with tom powell
Hidden 08/Mar/12 Lead O/S
nickstephens 03/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Mr Powly ?/Mar/12 Lead β

on Ian's gear

with Rozzy
gg4419 ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Led Pitch 2

Hidden ??/2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
ian d f 26/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Did in one pitch and suffered crippling rope drag at the top.

tommoulds 22/Oct/11 2nd dnf
with Schramm
mark schramm 22/Oct/11 Lead rpt
with tom m
Jonathan Emett 03/Oct/11 2nd O/S

very nice.

with toby
Bobby Gilbert 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
katherinesydney 01/Oct/11 2nd β

yay! great. and so different all the way up

p2-melhuish ?/Oct/11 Lead
MBarraclough 30/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Jim Slater 22/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Led as one pitch.

gowla 14/Sep/11 Lead β
with Alex Burns
Stone Muppet 02/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Took hanging belay but then led on when Ami decided not to follow

with ah
GPN 31/Aug/11 Lead O/S

1 pitch.

with Annette
Becky E 29/Aug/11 2nd

Struggled on the initial moves (never really found the sequence???) but then really enjoyed the rest.

Graeme Hammond 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Utterly Brilliant!!! as one pitch (thanks to Becky for the suggesting this as it was probably so much better as one big pitch). 50m gets you to the block right at the top with correctly extended runners.

with Becky E
Alkis 28/Aug/11 Lead RP

Got my right hand trapped while jamming at the bottom and fell off, then restarted from the ground and did the whole thing clean. Be careful with the rope lengths, did it with a doubled 60m rope and run out on the slabs.

with Chris Nawrat
Rich Guest 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Very nice climbing on great rock. Seemed pretty soft touch after all the recent stuff I'd been on.

Hidden 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Chad123 09/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Nice climb, not as good as Interrogation but plenty of interest. Quite a thuggy crux overhang but the rest is fine for grade...

with Emily
Souljah 08/Aug/11 -

Brilliant route, was blowing a bit tho!

with Andi T
andi turner 08/Aug/11 Lead

Extremely windy. It was rattling my eyelids.

with Eddie
i_a_coops 08/Aug/11 2nd
nicolat ?/Aug/11 2nd
with James Mitchell
Si ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Greg
TBowell nee Holdsworth ?/Aug/11 -
dannyboy83 28/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Dad
dale1968 24/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Tom
Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 21/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Sarah Marks
mark schramm 02/Jul/11 Lead rpt

lead 1st pitch

flashpanther 02/Jul/11 Lead β

Climbed at an awesome sunset after dinner... Also mark I think you left a sling and a snap gate, My friend chris has them and will post them on the lost gear as soon as he can.

dmaldonado 01/Jul/11 2nd dog
Hidden ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Chris Sansum 25/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Gary Lewin
Bob M 23/Jun/11 AltLd

I led pitch 2. Fantastic route, varied climbing, perfect rock, great location in the evening sunshine. Soft touch for the grade - seemed more like HVS, 5a, 4c - or maybe we were just going well.

tobydunford 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/May/11 AltLd O/S
Alasdair Fulton 25/May/11 Lead O/S
with Burnsie
James Mitchelmore 25/May/11 Lead O/S
jonnie3430 25/May/11 Lead O/S
with Carol
Homes 24/May/11 2nd
with Leo
ParkFace 24/May/11 2nd O/S

Awesome route on an awesome evening, on the wishlist for a repeat lead!

with Pete Greening
leohl 24/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/11 Lead
cripper 04/May/11 2nd dnf

Almost finished the first pitch seconding when i screwed up removing a cam from a bad position and took a 25ft fall, luckily it swung me in a big arc under an overhang instead of straight into it, and the only thing that happened was a bit of a bust up knee where it hit the rock on the fall. (nb, do more falling practice)

with Ben
nickdonohue ?/May/11 Lead
with Pete Merrick
Hidden 30/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 30/Apr/11 AltLd
Hidden 29/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Liam FLeming 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S
kdalzell 27/Apr/11 2nd
Helnorris 18/Apr/11 2nd

Brillant climbing, Really enjoyable, testing route. Traverse was pretty tricky as a second, and a case of just committing to it. Really worth doing though.

stvredmond 18/Apr/11 Lead

first day ever climbing on granite and was brilliant to tick an E1. the climbing was brilliant and varied and the delicate traverse moves were very delicate. need a brave second

Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
adam cooper*super* 17/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

brill route :)

with dazza
Hidden 12/Apr/11 2nd dog
tuftynick 12/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with jess, glen
jeremyvanr 08/Apr/11 Lead O/S

My first E1 onsight lead.

pudding 07/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

phil did first more strenous pitch, i did second more run out pitch

with phil jarvis
timreynolds 06/Apr/11 2nd
thomb 06/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with tim, emma, David Coley
msoldn 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Felt just as great as I remembered it from 5 years ago, perfect variable climbing on immaculate granite. Lead in one pitch, definitely the way to do it.

with Dave
Robin Warden ?/Apr/11 Lead
with Tall Paul
Chris Ebbutt 27/Mar/11 2nd
mark schramm 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Chris E
MH123 16/Mar/11 2nd rpt
Jim Tan ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
sarpedon ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
CptRicActiv ??/2011 Lead
CptRicActiv ??/2011 Lead
cripper ??/2011 Lead rpt

finally got round to doing this after my big fall, lead both pitches, second one in the dark and heavy fog/high winds - standard dartmoor fun!

with Ben
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
djromberg ??/2011 -
Hidden 14/Dec/10 Lead O/S
Spence22 ?/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Tried to do the whole thing in one pitch, which was a mistake.

with Simon
Hidden 25/Sep/10 2nd
riddle 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Yasmina
joese7en 15/Sep/10 Lead O/S

more like top end VS and certainly NOT E1, also no moves of 5b at all, 5a at the most, good route though

Hidden 05/Sep/10 Lead
colkurtz 05/Sep/10 2nd
with Robb
Toby Dunn 03/Sep/10 Solo
JonHarvey 02/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Really really good climb :-) Thats all I have to say.

Hidden 02/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/10 Lead O/S
RagingPuffin 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Paula
Kemics 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Led first pitch, spent 2 hours sitting in hanging belay due to faff. Second pitch chimney is definitely the crux, fairly bold with tricky moves. Easy E1 but E1 nonetheless

Hidden 15/Aug/10 AltLd rpt
Hidden 14/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Si dH 14/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

I led first pitch, Neil led second. Got pissed down on heavily when seconding the second pitch. Thought traverse the crux.

with Neil Furniss
berry 28/Jul/10 2nd
with tony hopkins
Popkids 28/Jul/10 Lead β

This is my frist E1 lead. Great route

with Berry
Toby Dunn 26/Jul/10 Lead
with Andy Reeve
Hidden 08/Jul/10 Lead O/S
gangreen 02/Jul/10 -
_m.cox_ ?/Jul/10 2nd β
with Jason Williams, Tom Harrison
Homes 23/Jun/10 AltLd
with Mike B
tom169 22/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Pawel
Hidden 20/Jun/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 18/Jun/10 Lead O/S
JPGR 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Never E1, good HVS, did both pitches, nice route, but 2 stars at the moment, couldn't work out what was so special about it...maybe i missed something.

Hidden 05/Jun/10 Lead dog
leohl ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Frostie 25/May/10 Lead rpt
with Roy Harris
MH123 15/May/10 2nd O/S
tcfield 27/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
david morse 11/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with chris todd
culmclimberRob 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S

lead both pitches the traverse was a bit delicate to say the least but all was good my first e1 onsight!!!

with callum mcgowen
davenev 13/Mar/10 2nd

Tough at the start and then struggled to retrieve a wire but from there on all good. Nice traverse and top pitch

with luke
Mr Tickle 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Hardest bit was the was fine. Easy E1

with davenev
mattyork2 14/Feb/10 Lead O/S

Desperately tenuous in poor fitting new rock boots

Bristoldave 30/Jan/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jan/10 Lead O/S
Ben Vieyra ??/2010 AltLd O/S
with Tom Field
Bob Peters ??/2010 2nd
jcook1980 ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
GarethSL 25/Oct/09 2nd
with Shaun
mikeburf 14/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

lead 2nd pitch

twright180 14/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/09 Lead O/S
dmoir 17/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Lauren Davies 17/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Popkids 12/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Baz
grumpyoldjanner 10/Sep/09 Lead

Led both pitches, rested on the rope at the start of the first pitch trying to figure out how to get into the flaked crack, led the rest clean.

argyle_dude 10/Sep/09 2nd dog
Hidden ?/Sep/09 Lead
Hidden 29/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
hrgcb 29/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Great climb, more like HVS 5a than E1 5b

with Joe Prinold
El3ctroFuzz 25/Aug/09 Lead O/S

First E1 Onsight! Not too hard actually lol!!

with Billy
worklessclimbmore 25/Aug/09 2nd O/S
hepitt 18/Aug/09 Lead
with Phillipa Arding
DanLear 11/Aug/09 2nd
with Al McPhierson
Misha 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Great climbing, fantastic stance. HVS, mostly 5a apart from a couple of harder moves up the flakey overhanging bit towards the start.

37degrees 15/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Great climb not to hard.

with Ben Bradford
PaulTanton 11/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
cornishben 04/Jul/09 2nd rpt
DorsetGareth 04/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

I lead the first pitch, Tim lead the second.

with Ben Sutton & Tim Riley
JimR 14/Jun/09 -
Chubbard 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
w.pettet-smith 11/May/09 Lead

mixed and matched with rhino. didn't the pull onto top slab, slunk off back to the mother route via some flakey, mossy shite. was lovely fun.

with claire jane carter
clairejane ?/May/09 2nd
with will
jon bradley 29/Mar/09 Lead dog

Got careless and lobbed on pitch one - still it meant I got to do the hand jammy bit twice

with Huw Howells
Hidden 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
sinbad 14/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Pete
jon thompson27 ?/Mar/09 -
with Alex Thompson
Hidden 26/Feb/09 Lead O/S
crobinson 26/Feb/09 2nd

Top quality climb!!!

with Tom Last
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden 17/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
Rock Lizard ?/Oct/08 2nd
Duncan Campbell 25/Sep/08 Lead G/U

ground up with 3 attempts on 3 seperate days and 2 falls! awesome route tho the traverse at the top was savage!!

with rob steer
mike88 16/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with JAmes Codner
dan gibson 28/Aug/08 Solo O/S
AlexD 25/Aug/08 AltLd

led 2nd pitch

with Sim + Nick B
Hidden 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Duncan Bourne
Hidden 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/08 2nd
Jon_Warner 24/Jun/08 Lead rpt

1st Pitch Lead, 2nd Tom, Wicked.

with Tom
Reeges 09/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/08 AltLd RP
Shaw Brown 04/May/08 Lead
with Jeb
Hannes B ?/Mar/08 2nd
with Rik Dawes
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
OliBoyes ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Chris Barr
dewrats ??/2008 -
with Oli Boyes , Dave Searle, Chris Barr
Chris_barr ??/2008 Lead
sharmawho? ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Oli, Chris, Nick , Dave
sebrider ?/Dec/07 2nd O/S

Cold cold, was too cold to lead!

with Roby Rudolf
Tobes ?/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
with Tamir
Justin T 26/Aug/07 Lead rpt
with Vicky
alaan 26/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with Connor
Hidden 26/Aug/07 AltLd
Jon_Warner 01/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Second pitch is long and requires thought, at times run out. a complete contrast from the shortish pumpy pitch 1! brilliant.

with Richard Ray
richardr ?/Aug/07 -

Rest below crux, then fired through second go!

brian watson 31/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Katherine Watson
Mark Davies PK 24/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

Benchmark E0 5b

with Brian
bpmclimb 24/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

Verging on E1

with Mark
Steerpike 11/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
with Tommo
Justin T 10/Jul/07 2nd rpt
with Clara
Justin T 09/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Wifey
Hidden 09/Jun/07 2nd dog
Dave Searle 02/Jun/07 Lead

lead first pitch

with mark
Dave Searle 02/Jun/07 Lead
with mark
Owen W-G 20/May/07 Lead RP

Led both pitches. Fell on first nut on P1, removed it and led clean from start. E1 seemed fair overall. A classy route with many varied sections of interest. Crux low down!

with Simon Denison
Hidden 08/Apr/07 Lead O/S
gregarding 08/Apr/07 Lead O/S

I think it warrants E1 if you are dosy as me and decide to pitch it out with a single rope...loadsa sympathy please

Hidden ?/Apr/07 -
climber sim ??/2007 -
nick99 ??/2007 AltLd
with Rob
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 2nd O/S
gregarding ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Donna Nichamin
Hidden ??/2007 -
eddy-on-the-rocks ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
zcapxa5 04/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Dave Ross
Hidden ?/Nov/06 2nd
Dave Searle 20/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with sim
Hidden 22/Aug/06 Lead O/S
chrissloan84 17/Aug/06 Lead rpt
with AJM
Dave Kerr 08/Aug/06 Lead
with Jill Kerr
Hidden 23/Jul/06 AltLd
Carl Smethurst 19/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

AW - pitch 1, CS - pitch 2

with Tony Woods
chris j 11/Jun/06 Lead rpt
with Richard
AJH 03/Jun/06 2nd
with Crispin
Hidden 01/Jun/06 AltLd
Hidden ??/2006 -
jmhood ??/2006 AltLd O/S
with Ante
mark4344 20/Aug/05 2nd
with Nick Coles
Ben1983 ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
Jon Evans ?/May/05 -
Steve Bell ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 AltLd O/S
ChrisBrooke 29/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
with John Inkpen
Hidden 05/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
tom.e ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Charlie Everett
Tim Steward 09/May/04 Lead
with James Parrot
aged_ape ?/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd O/S
Gibson27 ??/2004 AltLd
rockpool 06/Sep/03 2nd

wrong technique on the traverse ,so a bit scary but very enjoyable, a must for aspiring e1,rs

with zin
Hidden 31/Aug/03 Lead
Hidden 20/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Samuel P 04/May/03 2nd
with Luke
Mark Collins 29/Mar/03 AltLd O/S
with Mark Watson
Hidden 29/Mar/03 AltLd O/S
Rob Pitt ??/2003 -
cem 05/Oct/02 Lead O/S


with James Gregory
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with Naomi Walker
Hidden 21/Jul/02 Lead O/S
JamieForman ?/May/02 AltLd O/S
with Little Rich
Bullybones ??/2002 -
rockjedi12345 ?/Oct/01 Lead O/S

great climb

with Ian Stocker
Hidden 20/Aug/01 2nd O/S
Macca_7 20/Aug/01 Lead O/S

Excellent route with 2 many contrasting parts. Burly start leads to delicate traverse and a final dander up the runnel and slabs.

cornishben ??/2001 AltLd O/S
with Noel Duffy
richsmithinbristol 25/Sep/00 Lead
Roget 11/Sep/00 Lead rpt
with jon
Hidden 04/Sep/00 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/00 Lead
NickP ??/2000 -
Marti999 ??/2000 -
andy_pemberton ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
CraigMac1 ??/2000 -
Steveb27 ??/2000 AltLd
Hidden ?/Sep/99 Lead
Ally Smith ?/Aug/99 AltLd O/S

with Eddie Church

timreynolds 13/Jul/99 Lead
with John Burnip
Hidden 14/Jun/99 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/99 Lead
markw ??/1999 2nd O/S

As pictured in 'Rock Climbing in England and Wales' by David Simmonite

Frostie ??/1999 Lead
stuart100 09/May/98 Lead O/S
with Claire Graham
Mark Kemball 25/Oct/97 2nd
with Bill McKee
Jon Read ?/May/97 Lead O/S
with Noel Curtis
Greg Cunningham ?/Nov/96 Lead
chris sm ?/Jul/96 AltLd O/S
timreynolds 15/May/96 2nd
with Andy Leivers
colin milton 14/Aug/95 Lead
with eric milton
Hidden ?/May/94 Lead O/S
sdht ??/1994 -
daprince ?/Aug/93 AltLd
leadmat ?/Jun/93 Solo
pmot ??/1993 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/92 Lead O/S
Cowflinger 21/Apr/92 -
with Pete Lewis
kp64zl ?/Apr/92 Lead
with Jason M
FATBOYFAT ??/1992 AltLd O/S
with Andy Brown
Andy Fielding 09/Sep/91 AltLd
with Mark Lardner
eroica64 ?/Aug/91 AltLd
with Denis Crampton
John Southworth ?/Jul/91 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/91 Lead
NickJH ??/1991 -
Derek Ryden ??/1991 Lead O/S
with David Coley
Tim M ??/1991 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/90 AltLd O/S
Roget 23/Jun/90 2nd O/S
with jim
Hidden 30/May/90 -
ecowaller ??/1990 -

Great route only HVS though

with bunny
davidalcock ??/1988 Lead O/S

Thought it soft HVS back in the day. Memorable top pitch though!

with Philip Scorer
Pete Nugent 26/Jul/87 Lead

led both pitches, HVS 5a,5a in the 83/85 guide

with John Derbyshire
Nick Biven 29/Jun/87 Lead O/S
clark alston ?/Jul/86 Lead O/S
charlesmfrench ??/1985 AltLd

l,2.. Led all since 11/5/04 and 15/5/04 with Simon and Andy.

with Ian Milne
Hidden 17/Aug/84 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 26/Jun/83 2nd
with Dave Abbey
Mark Kemball ?/Jun/83 Lead
mark-abz 03/Jun/82 Lead O/S
with Andy W
Steve Lewis 13/Apr/82 Lead O/S
with Lyndsey
Simon cook ??/1981 AltLd
D Tempest 01/Jul/78 Lead O/S

Before this date

D Tempest ?/Jan/76 Lead
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 117
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 140
Votes cast 142
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set