UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

15m.

Rockfax Description
Left of a long chimney. Tempting to stay in the chimney as long as possible, the face generally has nicer holds. © Rockfax

Ticklists

4 - 5 Grade Climbs Portland Westcoast , Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tiffers 9 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: This line shows in the middle of Birthday Girl and Divine Comedy - but there are no bolts. In the old book it's trad, so this may be a mistake.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This line shows in the middle of Birthday Girl and Divine Comedy - but there are no bolts. In the old book it's trad, so this may be a mistake.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

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Voting
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Ground Up
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Last of the Summer Wine

Grade: 5c ***
(Blacknor Central)

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