135m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
135m. It's inclusion in 'Cold Climbs' has attracted a disproportionate amount of attention to this climb. It is rarely in climbable condition and requires a big dump of snow and a period of freeze thaw for it to be stable enough to climb the crux overhang. An excellent route when it is in condition! Traversing in on the big ledge to avoid the first two pitches is cheating. 1) 20m. Climb the first chock stone on the left. 2) 20m The second bulge to easy ground below the main pitch. 3) 25m. Climb steepening snow until you are under the chock stone (good nuts on the left). Make difficult moves out left and surmount the chock using unconsolidated snow and poor hooks. 4) 50m. Climb beneath the huge jammed boulder to gain a standing position on top of it. Some tricky moves up the back of the gully lead to easier ground and the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, Winter Aspirations.

Scott Quinn 17/Jan/16 2nd

abit of an epic!!!! top laughhh

CMoore 17/Jan/16 Lead dnf

Absoloutly epic, not frozen enough, v deep powder and constant powder avalanches. 1st pitch was ok, 2nd we went up the wall to the right, 3rd looked good and banked out but the snow/ice was completely crumbling. 4th pitch was shoulder deep snow and no way of getting over final block. abseiled off.

tunnah 17/Jan/16 2nd
Hidden 03/Feb/15 2nd O/S
Pohil 03/Feb/15 Lead O/S
yesbutnobutyesbut ??/2014 -
johang 10/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Missed first 2 pitches as freezing level had risen. Aside from this, good fun :)

with Phil
Joby 29/Mar/13 AltLd

very much out of condition! Although good snow on the easier bits, the turf was well frozen and some good ice, the crux was bare and very hard, all in a great day with fantastic climbing.

with John Martin, Robin Fraser
GPN 13/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Great fun. Headtorch ascent after work. No ice on first 2 pitches but solid turf. Perfect ice leading up to the capstone though. Topped out at quarter past midnight - fantastic stary night.

Shaw Brown 13/Mar/13 -
Hidden 03/Mar/13 Lead
Hidden 03/Mar/13 2nd rpt
ablackett 02/Mar/13 AltLd dnf

No ice on P1 so Wallace climbed the crack without tools - our guidebook said climb the crack on the right of the chockstone - felt very hard unless you wanted to trust your left foot on almost nothing. No ice on the "short ice bulge" on P2, so backed off and walked round to look at the crux, which again looked bare and hard - right decision.

with James Osborn, Andy Wallace
Hidden 02/Mar/13 AltLd
Jimmy O 02/Mar/13 AltLd dnf

Bailed after 1st pitch as no ice. Even 1st pitch felt really hard - maybe better when the turf/moss is frozen.

with Andy Wallace, Andy Blackett
clams ?/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Dry rock interspersed with snow and quite a bit of ice on crux pitch

with Chazwoz
joe.91 23/Feb/13 Lead O/S

The best/scariest/hardest thing I've done in winter! Absolutely amazing! Great ice beneath the capstone leads to tricky moves to get established on the slope above. The punt paid off with great conditions!

Hidden 23/Feb/13 2nd
Hidden ??/2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jan/11 Lead
Hidden 09/Jan/11 2nd
Lee Sheard 21/Dec/10 Lead O/S

Did Pitches 3...4.. And 5 as first 2 werent banked out.. Quite techy moves over the chokstone on 3rd pitch but gears good.. Fantastic route in good nick.. Will have to go and do first two pitches to get the full tick.. If we ever get enough snow!!

with John Hubbard
robinsi197 04/Dec/10 AltLd

Not much ice. Skipped the first pitch.

with Nick
Hidden 04/Mar/10 Lead
Hidden 04/Mar/10 2nd O/S
innesmac ??/2010 -
Dave Warburton 21/Dec/09 AltLd O/S

Pitch up to the Chock was on poorish ice and powder by Franco - first crux. I got the Chockstone pitch, which was a mixed climb with some, but limited good ice and managed to throw my way over the chock into 7 or 8 ft deep powder. Almost constant Powder avalanches. Epic, scary but ultimately amazing.

Franco Cookson OLD 21/Dec/09 AltLd O/S

In brilliant nick, with loads of ice and Rime everywhere. It took us ages due to obscene amounts of powder. The easy slopes were 8ft deep at least and held nothing. Proper scary, took nearly seven hours. Epic and scary!

Franco Cookson ?/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
Tom Phillips 13/Feb/09 Lead O/S

great route - deep narrow gully/chimney with 4 great pitches. worth waiting for the right conditions to do this. we just had enough snow/ice to pull over the chockstone

with iain cole
Hidden 12/Feb/09 -
Hidden 09/Feb/09 AltLd
Hidden 07/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
Tim Sparrow ??/2009 -

Scratch and scrape

Hidden 18/Mar/06 AltLd O/S
Paul-Michael 18/Jan/04 AltLd O/S

Very Lean, lead crux on 1st pitch wall to left of cave to gain top of capstone less than 10mm of ice. Chockstone pitch went at 2-3.

BenTiffin ?/Dec/96 AltLd
with Angus Andrew
Martin Haworth ?/Jan/88 AltLd
with tim p
Bob 18/Feb/86 Solo O/S

Felt quite easy, only took half an hour. Went over to Dove Crag and did Inaccessible Gully afterwards.

charlesmfrench 02/Feb/86 AltLd O/S


Hammy 31/Jan/86 AltLd
with Ian Barker
biggianthead 28/Jan/86 -

Avalanched off!

with M
Hidden 20/Jan/85 AltLd dnf
Campbell42 ?/Feb/83 AltLd O/S

Again with Kim Wainaright on 25.Jan.1986, then a third time with Chris Wilson when the second pitch collapsed under me.

with Frank Wilkinson
uphillnow ?/Feb/83 AltLd


with charlie french, Al Bennett
Hidden ?/Jan/82 AltLd
Paul Clarke ??/1979 -

Tough lead esp when crampon came off

with John Hamilton
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