115m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
115m. Climbs an open groove line on the right edge of the buttress. No detailed description available please feel free to submit one. Pitch grades 3, 4, 4+, 4+. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climbs an open groove line on the right edge of the buttress. Start just left of North Gully. P1 (4): Follow a line on the right hand side of the buttress past a tricky slab and a snowy ledge to a stance on the right hand side of the next ledge, above North Gully. P2 (4): Go up from the stance to a wide snowy ledge below a steep wall. Move a few metres left and torque up a crack in the wall to a sloping snowy ledge above. Move right along this to a good stance on the edge of the buttress, above North Gully. P3 (4/5): Traverse into North Gully (two lines possible, the upper one is harder), then climb an excellent chimney to a spike belay. P4 (4/5, sustained): Move rightwards to the base of an obvious groove and climb turf and thin neve to a good rock belay. A short snow saddle followed by some easy ground leads to the top.

FA. R.Graham, L.Steer 10/Jan/1991

TobyA 31/Jan/15 AltLd

Something approximating to this - but couldn't find a way up the wall on P2 - just powder over the top and no gear, so climbed a chimney to the left that turns out to be part of Bowstring and was very hard, but protected (one fall). Climbed the chimney groove above North Gully (the guide book P3), but the turfy grooves of P4 weren't properly frozen and there was no gear to be found. So finished by going up North Gully a bit and then climbing the buttress between the two branches of the gully on lovely ice.

with SimonW
Martin Haworth 05/Dec/10 Lead O/S

Lots of powder made this tough, difficult to find gear so it felt run out and full on grade V. Pitches today felt 4,5,5,6. Great effort by Matt to second the last pitch in the dark without a headtorch.

with Matthew Robinson
Hidden 05/Dec/10 2nd
Misha 07/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

Were going to do Bowfell Buttress but it was pretty bare on the steeper sections so did this route instead as it looked in better winter nick. The short cruxes on P1 and P2 were fairly lean but the rest of those pitches had good neve and turf. P3 and P4 were in good winter condition due to being out of the sun on the North side of the buttress. P3 provided a tricky traverse followed by a really enjoyable chimney. P4 proved to be the best mixed pitch I had done to date. Bomber turf but quite thin neve in places on spaced gear. Led P2 and P4.

with Tom
2 users have this on their wishlist
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 1
High 7
Mid 7
Low 7
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 3