500m, 15 pitches.
Approach: Follow the hiking path up to the base of the Miroir, and traverse approx 200m to the right along the base to reach the start of the route where an obvious crack slanting up R splits a slab. The name is marked on the rock. Allow 1 hour for the approach if there is no neve, otherwise allow 30 minutes extra.
Route: 15 pitches up to the Cheval Blanc with an optional short 16th pitch to the ridge (not recommended due to the complexity and added time of rappelling this top section!). Descent via abseil down the route.
Grades: P1: 6b+, P2: 6a P3: 6a P4: 6c P5: 6b P6: 6b+/6c P7: 6a P8: 5+ P9: 6b P10: 5c P11: 6a+ P12: 6b+ P13: 6a P14: 6b+ P15: 6b
Comments: Mamba is an excellent and challenging route full of steep and fairly sustained climbing in cracks, as well as several technical sections requiring considerable finesse on the compact, colorful slabs of the Miroir. Generally, the route snakes through all the major difficulties (in one or two sections a walk-around with some easy scrambling avoids some of the shorter slab sections). The route is not especially exposed for the grade, as it follows a series of steep walls with most belays being on ledges or terraces. However, there are a number of sensational positions along the way, as well as magnificent views of the surrounding mountains. Because bolting is of an alpine style, it is a good idea to take medium-sized friends (0.5 - 1.0) to protect the crack climbing (especially P1 and P6), and to avoid falling onto ledges (start of P9, P11). The rock is generally compact, clean and adheres very well, however, some loose blocks may remain. This said, the route is very well equipped for abseil and there is almost no risk of jammed ropes. This is important, as a safe retreat down the route can be difficult if it rains.
Route: 15 pitches up to the Cheval Blanc with an optional short 16th pitch to the ridge (not recommended due to the complexity and added time of rappelling this top section!). Descent via abseil down the route.
Grades: P1: 6b+, P2: 6a P3: 6a P4: 6c P5: 6b P6: 6b+/6c P7: 6a P8: 5+ P9: 6b P10: 5c P11: 6a+ P12: 6b+ P13: 6a P14: 6b+ P15: 6b
Comments: Mamba is an excellent and challenging route full of steep and fairly sustained climbing in cracks, as well as several technical sections requiring considerable finesse on the compact, colorful slabs of the Miroir. Generally, the route snakes through all the major difficulties (in one or two sections a walk-around with some easy scrambling avoids some of the shorter slab sections). The route is not especially exposed for the grade, as it follows a series of steep walls with most belays being on ledges or terraces. However, there are a number of sensational positions along the way, as well as magnificent views of the surrounding mountains. Because bolting is of an alpine style, it is a good idea to take medium-sized friends (0.5 - 1.0) to protect the crack climbing (especially P1 and P6), and to avoid falling onto ledges (start of P9, P11). The rock is generally compact, clean and adheres very well, however, some loose blocks may remain. This said, the route is very well equipped for abseil and there is almost no risk of jammed ropes. This is important, as a safe retreat down the route can be difficult if it rains.
C & Y Remy 2003.
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Route of Interest
Harlin/Robbins Route
Grade: 6c ***
(Le Tour d'Aï)