There have been serious problems here in the past but access appears less problematic providing climbers keep a low profile. The quarries are owned by Gwynedd Council who make it clear that there is no offical access due to public safety reasons - there are high fences and signs prohibiting access, but there have not been any reports of practical access problems for many years.
In early 2017 planning permisson was granted for a new hydro-electric power station on the site. When works starts on this (unkknow time-scale) its likley that access to some of the quarries will be permenently lost, especially to Mancer and Film Set Quarries as these will become flooded to produce a holding reservoir.
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs (both species have legal protection under the Wildlife & Countryside Act), some climbing in the Gideon Quarry (all routes on Gideon Terrace and Cracking up areas) is restricted from March 1st until the end of June.
Rockfax Description
Abseil to the lower ledge and brace yourself for battle.
1) 5b, 18m. Fight your way up the 5.10 slot which only accommodates large cams, which are also needed for the belay!
2) 4c, 21m. Ferret up behind the pinnacle (taking care not to push too hard) to reach its summit. Cracks and ledges lead to the top. © Rockfax
UK road to wide crack mastery , Crackageddon , Craciau Llydan Gogledd Cymru , Gwynedd Grack , Journey Through Welsh Crack Climbing
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
myrddinmuse | 4 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Careful of loose slate, clean on ab is my advice! I'm reliably informed that you pivot into a layback on the crux (scary..!). | ||
Show beta
βeta: Careful of loose slate, clean on ab is my advice! I'm reliably informed that you pivot into a layback on the crux (scary..!). |
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Cadair Idris - Penygadair)