Restricted Access
The Beeston Tor caves at the right-hand side of the crag are an important archaeological site and the landowner (The National Trust) do not want any disturbance to the caves themselves. The Trust has requested that if climbers at the crag notice any suspicious activity around the caves (eg digging, metal detecting, carrying equipment or bags to/from the caves etc), that they call 01335 350503 and leave a message with any details.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies from Flying Doctor / The Thorn to Central Wall / Cleo's Mood inclusive (depending on which guidebook you are using).
Rockfax Description
The middle girdle offers fine fingery climbing with a sting-in-the-tail crux. Start as for Beeston Eliminate.
1) 4a, 20m. Climb the cleaned stripe to the second big tree as for West Wall Climb (p.380 ).
2) 5b, 30m. Follow Beeston Eliminate to below the overlap just short of the stance. Traverse right descending slightly all the way to below the crux bulge of The Thorn. Climb down into the cave to belay.
3) 5b, 16m. Descend the diagonal crack/ramp then pull right over the bulge and follow a gently rising line to a small stance on the polished ramp of Central Wall.
4) 6a, 25m. Traverse right to gain the left-slanting groove of The Fly. Climb up this to hard moves left (old pegs) then up to easier rock and the abseil point. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Mid-level traverse finishing up the Fly
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Beeston Tor
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Corinthian
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Hen Cloud)