Restricted Access
A great traditional crag with some extremely popular routes such as Creagh Dhu Wall, Tensor and Pellagra.
From March to July there has been Owls and Jackdaws spotted nesting on some of the routes, please check your routes before setting of.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny owls nest on the first pitch of Creagh Dhu Wall (shared with One step in the Crowds). It's also worth noting that Tawny owls can be exceptionally aggressive in defending their nests and there are known cases of serious eye injuries caused to people who venture too close to Tawny owl nests!
April 2024 - Jackdaws nesting on the first pitch of Mensor, please avoid this area until they have left.
Rockfax Description
The main pitch gives superb climbing up a vague rib. Start to the left of a gully by a tree.
1) 5a, 23m. Climb the wall left of the tree to gain the gully on the right. Move right again onto another wall and climb this, passing an overlap to its right, onto the upper wall. Belay a little higher below the final eye-catching arete (and be happy that it's your mate's big lead!)
2) 5c, 22m. Climb the arete until you can step onto a good foothold out right and reach a poor thread (worth backing up with your own thread). Continue to where the angle eases and shuffle up to reach the final arete - all very bold! © Rockfax
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig y Castell (Tremadog)
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The Axe of Bodesi
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Creigiau Bodesi ( upper tier))