38m, 2 pitches.
An exciting climb which crosses the steep horizontal bands at the left-hand end of the crag. Access by walking above the main crag and descending easily to the quarry slabs. Descend a short corner just right of a large block and traverse rightwards for 20m to gain the first belay ledge just above the tideline (about severe) or, if the tide is fully in make a short abseil from the metal ring to gain the approach traverse.
P1) 5b, 28m. Pick a line up and across the horizontal bands to gain an easing in angle. Continue to a stance in the corner
P2) 4c, 10m. Climb the corner to the top
P1) 5b, 28m. Pick a line up and across the horizontal bands to gain an easing in angle. Continue to a stance in the corner
P2) 4c, 10m. Climb the corner to the top
FA. Mark Hounslea, Kevin Stephens, Colin Struthers 06/Oct/2013.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tom McCabe | 23 Apr, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Can be started from the beach at low water. P2 is still a little bit loose, good idea to belay of of the fall line. At dead low springs a ~10m abseil from the iron ring will just land you on a kelpy boulder. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Can be started from the beach at low water. P2 is still a little bit loose, good idea to belay of of the fall line. At dead low springs a ~10m abseil from the iron ring will just land you on a kelpy boulder. |
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Route of Interest
Atlantis/True Moments/Freebird
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Gogarth South Stack)